About 50m to the left of the start of BAPM are a series of big red overhangs. The route takes a line through these, finally traversing out to the right. Scramble to a big ledge beneath the overhangs. Start to the right, beneath a steep, broken recess.
Pull up into recess then move out immediately right onto ledge. Continue up to another recess & up this to a roof. Rail left under the roof to a ledge. From righthand side of the ledge, pull up into a short off-width crack and climb this to the roof. Traverse to the right under the roof to a grassy ledge. Scramble to the top.
FA:Dave Cretchley, Maevo Makfer, Steven Mallory & M. Giddy, 1983
Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.
35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.
22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.
There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.
BAPM takes a fairly direct line up the buttress opposite the deep 'pothole pool'. Scramble up to small flat overhangs on the lower grey section of the buttress.
15m 10 Climb past the overhangs on the left, step to the right and continue straight up to a large ledge below steep red and black rock.
25m 19 Climb up 2m then undercling to the right to the left hand side of two cracks which form the candleflame shape as seen from below. Move up to the top of the 'flame' and continue up to the right to belay on a small ledge next to a tree.
25m 7 Move around to the right into the main corner, which is followed to large ledges (this portion is common with MARTHA). Climb to the right to the ledge at the foot of the appealing final crack, which runs up a zone of red rock right of an overhang.
25m 21 Follow the crack as it curves up to the right. When it fades, move up and to the left beneath the grey overhang. Traverse to the left past a dubious block until the top can be reached by climbing steep grey, lichen-covered rock (18A1).
There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 from where its straightforward to scramble down.
It makes sense to do this route in two pitches – scramble past the 1st pitch on the right, and link pitches 2 and 3.
This excellent route (dry when raining) takes the striking roof crack on the true left of the kloof, just upstream of where the kloof opens up into a valley.
20m 20 Takes the most obvious crack on the wall. Belay from a large, flat ledge just above the stream. Climb the crack to a good ledge below the overhangs (there is a bolt on this ledge, to the left of the roof crack).
5m 26 Think horizontally and climb the crack (which opens, closes and then
flares) through the 3.5m roof on immaculate jams.
This is an ideal route for a rainy day or when time is limited. The roof pitch is easily avoided by traversing left.
This short route is on the west face of a large boulder on the true left of the valley directly below the cave. Standing in the cave, the boulder is below (south) of the striking, bulgy wall, directly across the valley. The route climbs the A-shaped corner.
15m 20 After Tricky take-off, climb corner to rail. Finish up left on jugs.
When standing at the entrance of the VALLEY. Look toward the TIME BOMB. There is a rock island about 200m away between you and the TIME BOMB. This line is on an egg shaped boulder on the back side of the rock island, its takes a cool rightwards tending crack from bottom to top, with some mantle mischief up top.
10m 18 Start directly underneath the main boulder, next to the square block on its left end. Make some fun moves up to the crack and climb this rightwards then up to the top.
All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)
Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.
Directly opposite from GRAND ILLUSION, this line takes an obvious leftwards tending bulge and crack.
10m 17 Boulder up to the small ledge where the crack begins, follow the crack and ramp leftwards to where they widen into a cubby (the crack ends about 1m left of here), reach up over the bulge directly above to jugs and make your way to the top.
Descent: Walk off the back of the bolder towards SOUNDTRACK.
A short, slightly overhanging, southwest-facing face, just south of AVALON. From the AVALON valley, scramble up on the true left, past SOUNDTRACK.
STORMCHASER is to the left, on a red-yellow wall, facing the same direction as AVALON and with a flat platform at its base.
15m 19 Climb the main break straight up the face, taking care on the flakes near the top.
Opened on the wettest weekend of the decade – the kloof was shoulder-deep in water!
Descent: Either abseil off some tat or solo down the east side of the buttress (careful!).
This bolted pitch is on the slabish wall just outside and on the true right of the gully that marks the start of the maze descent route. From the top of the maze, walk up the grassy slopes to the wall.
25m 23 Join the dots. Finish up and right after the last dot to belay under the roof.
This route has no chains. Friend 1.5 and Rock 8 required for the top.
The bolts are old and should be clipped with caution.
This states enough thin layers of clothing worn at night obviate the need for a sleeping bag in winter at Blouberg. Its corollary says that enough poor protection before a long runout obviates the need for cowboy action on the route. The validity of both have been questioned.
25m 21 Start 5m left of CRAG RATS AGAINST MILEAGE. Climb the corner crack until it ends. Ascend a further 4m to a questionable peg. Move left along the thin seam/rail to place more gear. (Peg, small Metolius and Walnut 0, 00). Climb up to the undercling and continue up to the ledge.
If you are as short as Lobster, this is impossible. If you have a psyche problem, don't bother. Now sports a bolt (the bolt is most likely dubious by now)
A large gully bisects the northern face of the Donjon. About 50m west of the base of the gully is a long, low roof (20m wide and 2m deep at chest height). The climb starts at the western side of this roof where it runs into a rise in the ground, in the first obvious corner. Although the last pitches are of easy grade, they are particularly enjoyable.
35m 14 Up crack in corner 5m, left and up over awkward bulge. Ascend open
book above, traversing left at the top of the open book. Climb the second open book with pink and white streaks, again traversing left at top onto ledge.
20m 17 Climb third open book at right hand side of ledge and traverse left at top under roof. Proceed up nose (crux) onto flake and traverse left past pigeon nests under roof to grassy stance.
40m 12 Follow crack on lichen covered rock on good holds.
40m 12 Continue up the crack.
40m 11 Continue up the crack to ledge.
30m 11 Climb to a large ledge with trees, at base of overhanging buttress.
Walk left about 30m into the large gully and abseil.
Start about 500m left of the base of the ramp below a drip coming from an overhang about 40m up. Start on a boulder about 10m left of a large tree with a white bark. There is a small tree on the face about 8m up.
25m 19 Straight up, through a diagonal L to a corner. Up the corner for a few metres, then right to a ledge.
15m 21 Diagonally up and left to below a roof. Pull through and up to a semihanging
20m 20 Traverse right around the nose, and upwards past a drip.
25m 16 Climb up and right to a cabbage tree. Traverse right to break, then up to a ledge. Traverse 5m left below a crack.
15m 20 Climb steep crack to ledge then move 5m left, and down to below chimney.
25m 17 Climb up chimney. Then left through overhang and up to a ledge/cave just below corner.
45m 19 Start on right, up corner to below roof, then traverse left to arête. Up over easy ground to burned grass ledge.
45m 10 Up diagonally left over pleasant clean rock to traverse level, traverse left to below chimney.
25m 16 Up chimney then up through bush to top.
Crawl 45 to 50 seconds (i.e. less than one minute!) stroll to pool at top of rock.
Start 20m left of LOST TRIBE at the base of a blunt arête. A steep corner can be seen about 10m up. Cairn.
35m 19 Climb up diagonally left for a few metres over juggy rock (loose looking, but mega solid). Climb up to corner, climb it for about 6m, then move out left onto the arête, then straight up to a small stance.
25m 19 Straight up for a few meters then traverse right and up (airy), and along a ledge until about 4m left of the 3rd pitch of LOST TRIBE (i.e. the big corner to the right). Climb up and left, then straight up to a stance on top of some blocks below a steep crack.
20m 20 Climb the steep rock and crack above to a roof. Move 2m left and pull up through onto a ledge above. Walk 5m left.
20m 19 Climb the crack/recess to a roof. Pull through the roof and move right and up to a stance on a small ledge below a flake.
35m 21 Climb the corner/flake to the roof and make long moves right to gain a jug. Pull up then move 2m left to a shallow corner. Up the corner and the one above to until one can climb easily up to the left to a large scoop below a roof.
Traverse about 5m left to stance on a narrow ledge.
20m 19 Climb the crack above the stance to another ledge (8m). Move left then climb the steep face/crack above to a ledge.
Scramble up from the stance to a bushy ledge. Bash to the chimney gully about 10m right and climb the tree and arête above to take you to ledges and gullies that are part of the LOST TRIBE scramble. Bash/climb to the summit. A casual stroll (via
the maze) brings you back to the campsite.
Start as for LOST TRIBE (about 10m right of the central break).
40m 23 Follow LOST TRIBE for a few metres until it veers off left. Continue up the layback crack until it ends. Traverse right and up to gain a recess leading to easy ground which is followed to a ledge.
40m 20 Climb up leftwards and pull through the roof at a crack. Continue left and up to gain LOST TRIBE's long hand crack/recess. Climb the crack and exit left to belay on a long narrow ledge (LOST TRIBE moves right slightly lower down).
Where to now? Either rap off, traverse right and scramble as for LOST TRIBE, or traverse left for about 25m and climb LOOK SHARP 's flake. Alternatively, the brave may traverse further left to gain an interesting recess which leads to slabs, ledges, corridors and pillars.
The first ascentionists took the last option described above to top out. Only the VERY brave should try it.
Start about 125 metres right of the base of the descent ramp. The initial cornercrack
is situated 30 metres right of a large right-facing dihedral, and 15 metres left of
an orange slab capped by an arch.
42m 17 Climb the corner-crack for a few metres, and continue up the rightleaning
break to a ledge. Step off a short pillar on the right, turn the overhang,
and traverse left to move up to a stance a few metres beneath a long roof. One
is now a couple of metres left of the start.
25m 20 Climb diagonally left over red rock, then rail left around an arête using a
dubious looking block. Climb up and right to a steep recess which is used to pull
through the roofs to a ledge on the right.
40m 19 Move up the left-leaning ramp from the left end of the ledge to beneath
the overhang. Traverse right until able to pull through the overhangs. Climb
diagonally leftwards, then blast straight up the grey face (not much pro) to easier
rock and the highest ledge, a few metres beneath on obvious triangular roof.
40m 17 Move up a couple of metres, then right to cross the prominent lefttrending
gully-ramp. Climb diagonally right to gain a short chimney which is used
to reach ledges above.
45m 17 Walk right a few metres. Climb up and traverse left to the arête beneath
the left end of a large roof. Climb up and right to negotiate the bulge above the
roof. Climb the crack and continuation corner above, then move right and up into
a shallow alcove. Exit left and climb a corner to a small ledge on the left beneath
a large roof.
35m 19 Traverse right beneath the roof, around the arête to a narrow ledge. Go
right until able to gain the diagonal break leading up leftwards, through a small
yellow wood tree. Continue traversing leftwards around arête (some way out in
space) then climb a grey recess to a stance.
45m 18 Move left and up, and traverse back right into a recess. Climb up to a
crack, which is climbed past a small tree. Keep left and climb up until able to rail
right to easier ground. Continue to the end of the rope.
The route heads up the centre of the face, 120m to the left of GREAT GULLY.
33m 18 Up smooth, narrow chimney/crack in a left facing corner formed by a
buttress and the main face. Alternatively, start about 15m to the right, in a right
facing corner on the other side of the buttress.
50m 7 Ascend from top of crack to large grass ledge. Traverse right 66m and
scramble up to a higher ledge at the base of a left trending ramp system.
50m 7 Ascend diagonally leftwards to the highest yellowwood trees.
30m 16 Walk leftwards along ledge. Either take the first crack which starts easily
and ends with a difficult move, or take the second crack which has an awkward
start past a small bush, but an easier exit via twin flakes. Continue diagonally
leftwards to a tree belay under a steep face.
20m 15 Traverse left, and then climb up 2m to the rail leading round bulge. Use
the rail as an undercling and move left for a few meters until able to drop down
onto a block (exposed). Move left into a gully.
25m 12 Climb gully to stance at top of pinnacle.
60m 15 An awkward start gains the recess leading upwards from the right hand
end of the gully. Climb this, trending leftwards to top out at the start of the maze.
Variation to pitches 1 and 2:
Starts in the recess just to the left of a prominent buttress about 90m to the right of
the original LEFT FACE chimney. This recess is topped by a large overhang about
50m above the ground.
40m 12 Climb recess for about 30m and traverse right along a small ledge to a
30m 13 Move up 3m from stance and traverse right about 10m around the
corner. Move up behind block and then onto it and continue up the face to a
Scramble for about 50m to the large grass ledge and continue with the rest of
the original route
A sustained climb on excellent rock, which ascends between LEFT FACE and
GREAT GULLY. Start 15m right of the leftward slanting recess about 80m right of
the alternate start of LEFT FACE, and 80m left of the GREAT GULLY. Start at a
boulder below a prominent tree 25m up, which is just to the right of a large overhang
stretching leftwards to the leftward-slanting recess. The first two pitches may be
avoided by scrambling (7/10) up the recess to the large grass ledge.
45m 16 Climb straight up to a slight arête and climb this, passing about 5m to
the right of the prominent tree, to a ledge on the right. Climb the face above,
bearing slightly left to stance.
40m 16 Head straight up then left near the top, to the vast grass ledge from
which the leftward-slanting ramp of the middle section of LEFT FACE starts.
Walk leftwards across the top of the leftward-slanting recess mentioned in the start,
and scramble up from a point 30m further left (about 20m right of the start of the
ramp). Scramble up 10m and then 8m right to the foot of a prominent rock slab
leaning against the face, leading to a small overhang 6m up.
45m 19A2 Climb left-hand edge of slab for 3m. Swing right and climb slanting
crack to overhang. Step back down and right to crack at right-hand side of slab.
Climb to overhang past some loose flakes, and continue up shallow depression
above using two aid points. Climb delicately to a rail. Swing left and up into
corner and move up 2m to stance. Move diagonally right for 2m to crack which is
climbed for 2m before swinging back left on small holds and moving up the
shallow corner to below small overhang. Climb overhang crack above (crux -
originally aided) and continue up and slightly left to awkward resting place right
of two small trees. Step left on detached block and move up to ledge between
the two trees. Move diagonally up right and continue up small recess to stance
on the left.
25m 19 Hand traverse right for 8m to prominent leftward slanting recess. Climb
this, past an overlap on the left, to stance. Continue up leftward slanting recess
to ledge below smooth face. Stance on the left.
40m 20 Traverse 8m right to first recess through face above. Climb up 4m to
small overhang and step left to base of shallow recess above. Move up, swing
right on small holds and climb up awkwardly to a resting point (crux). Continue
up recess above to stance on comfortable ledge above tree.
35m 19 Step right and climb up to crack on the left of large slab. Climb crack
and continue up shallow depression above (crux) to where angle eases.
Continue up another 5m then traverse left for about 8m to tree in main recess.
Scramble up leftwards along bushy ramp and continue leftwards on exposed but
easy rock for about 80m to point just before shallow recess leading up from below.
55m 9 Climb up on right-hand side of recess until able to traverse across it and
continue traversing leftwards over pleasant rock to the top.
This route takes one of the most direct lines at Blouberg, to the left of the WALL OF
WHITE LIGHT. The start is 30m to the right of ANOTHER DAY IN HELL and about
10m left from the start of THE DELICATE SOUND OF THUNDER. A small beacon
marks the start. The route takes a more or less direct line transecting ANOTHER DAY
IN HELL. It tops out to the left of the huge, trapezoidal roof which is easily visible from
the ground, virtually at the top of the face and just to the left of the start. It is basically
an independent line, but shares the bivy stance with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. To
keep the line direct it has two short sections which are common to that route.
27m 20 Climb the clean line directly to the large ledge system above. Avoid the
grassy corner on the right at 12m by staying on the face to the left of it.
40m 22 Climb an obvious orange groove a few metres to the left of the start and
climb through the overhang above. There is a peg visible at the overhang at 10m.
Once through the overhang, continue up towards the right beneath a small roof to
easier ground and then to a blocky stance topped by an overhang. Move right 2m
and climb though the overlap to a rail (in common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL.
Continue up leftwards (crux). Move diagonally left a few metres (tricky) and then
up to a point where you can traverse to a perch just left of a prominent right-facing
corner beneath a large roof.
50m 20 Move left 2m and up underneath a small overhang. Step right onto the
ridge and continue up easier rock to a steep broken section at 40m. Pull through
this on good jugs to a large ledge (bivvie common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL).
35m 21 ANOTHER DAY IN HELL takes the first diagonal break to the right starting
at the end of the ledge. Continue past this for 3 - 4m and then take the obvious
break heading for the scooped section of the wall 25m above. Fantastic climbing,
protected by a bolt, brings you to a crux section, where an RP affords reasonable
protection. Prior to this point there is a peg on the right. Move through this crux
section (the good handhold on the left is now broken off), to a hanging stance off a
big block. Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined.
25m 24 Move right 5m to a point below two pegs 10m above. Place good pro in a
rail and continue up to the pegs. A crux move past the pegs brings you to easier
ground. Climb diagonally up left to a good stance.
35m 23 Above is a shallow, right-curving corner with a peg visible but the route
does not take this corner. Walk left about 5m to where the ledge ends, to a perch
stance and climb the obvious orange corner directly above for 12m. When the
corner peters out, do a delicate move right and then gingerly climb on to a large
precarious-looking block. A tricky move (for short people) brings you into a leftleaning
crack. Continue up this until it peters out after 5m, to a crouching position.
Move up left onto lichen covered rock and then diagonally right to a good stance.
35m 22 Some tricky moves up to the left bring you into a right-curving crack
system (often has bird shit) topped by a roof. At the roof rail right (slippery) and
then climb up to a small stance under a small roof.
40m 25 Continue up the broken corner-crack to the roof above. A hard move up
through the left brings you into an orange corner. Climb this to a rail underneath an
overhang. Rail left to an amazing stance on the skyline. This pitch has three bolts.
50m 17 A chossy start brings you onto lichen-covered rock. Continue up the
obvious line more or less straight to the top.
From here the scramble off is straightforward and fortunately not too bushy.
The route is well-protected, apart from pitch 4, which is runout and may be
protected using an RP.
No special gear is required, however a set of RP's will prove useful.
The corner of pitch 8 was originally aided.
Bivi sites: at the top of pitches 3 and 5 there are excellent bivvies. The opening
party also bivvied uncomfortably at the top of pitch 6. The bivvi site at the top of
pitch 3 has a drum and there is at least one mattress, chalk and a duvet jacket.
Please leave these articles in situ for the benefit of future ascentionists.
The route as described above is a free version of the original route. It is believed that the original route followed the right slanting diagonal break from somewhere on pitch 3 or 4 to rejoin on pitch 7.
A direct, sustained and wild route with good gear and continually engaging climbing. It was established with repeats in mind and has occasional bolts. A must-do. Gear: Double rack of cams from black alien to #2 camalot with triples of blue to grey alien equivalents. Singles of cams #3 and #4. Single set of nuts from DMM #1 to #9 plus a set of offset nuts to #7 DMM equivalent. Micro nuts not necessary. Supplementary Wild Country superlight rocks (the single-stem ones) are useful but not essential.
Start about 15m right of the massive pillar of YOU ONLY LIVE TWICE, beneath a short, wide crack formed by a fin 10m up. This is just left of a cluster of large boulders. The eventual aim (on pitch 6) is the impressive, overhanging arête which dominates the top half of the wall.
24 45m. Jikkels. An intricate and sustained journey. Take all the gear, except cams #0.75, #1, #2 and #4. Follow the vague break, place the #3 cam on the right, then run it out rightwards past the fin to jugs. Traverse 2m left into the main break then up to a small ledge where the crack ends. Traverse left across a smooth wall to a narrow dihedral. Problem-solve gear in a bizarre hole, then climb left and down to jugs just left of the arête. Climb straight up (tricky) to the overlap in white rock above. Keep going to the big hollow flake (crux), move slightly left then up to a jug, then rail right and up to a bolt. Step right and climb the vague corner. Traverse right just above the small roof to a thin crack then straight up to a good ledge (bolted anchor).
25 45m. Stikkels. Take all the gear, except cams #1 to #3. The aim is to break through the obvious notch in the roofs about 15m right of the stance. Climb up on the right to a rail. Step left and jettison the #4 cam about 5m directly above the stance. Traverse 3m right then up and left to a flake. Up this to hollow blocks then up to another large good flake. Don’t go up or left to the choss. Instead, traverse right about 4m then a big crank straight up to a ledge with a small grotty tree/bush. Traverse right then up to a hidden bolt on the right beneath the roof. It’s about 21 to here. Make a long reach to get hands above the roof, then keep cranking until feet are above the lip. Step left to a perch. Continue easily up and left about 8m to a small ledge – small cams.
23 45m. Frikkels. Classic like Boven. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #1 and all the wires. Climb the easy but runout ramp on the right then step left onto a big ledge (good bivi for 2, uncomfortable for 3). PSYCHO REPTILE climbs up and left and then back right into the steep, left-facing, narrow dihedral. Instead, climb up and diagonally right past a bolt to a vertical crack. Up this then step right at a second bolt. Up to a third bolt, then back left to a jug. Straight up to a small perch (PSYCHO REPTILE re-joins here). Do a runout traverse right to easier ground, then up to a ledge (PR goes right from here). Traverse left and climb up to a bolted stance on a large block.
21 45m. Bring route-finding skills. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #4 and all the wires. Save cams #2 to #4 for the stance (especially if hauling). Up to a bolt, then climb diagonally up and left. Follow the path of least resistance by trending up and left, always on good clean rock, until a bolt is visible about 6m above. Climb up and right, then traverse left to the bolt which protects a few moves on a hollow flake. Climb up then left onto a leftwards-diagonal ramp. Finish up an easy short, right-facing corner to an amazing ledge (good bivi for 4). Stance off cams in the top rail.
25 45m. The Business. Simply amazing. Take all the gear, except blue and black aliens. Keep a few small cams for the stance. From the left end of the ledge climb over ledges to the obvious crack. Follow this over a (solid) bulging block then step left to a foot perch just below the big roof (shared with YOLT to here, which then goes right). Climb the crack above and follow it leftwards into the dihedral to eventually make heart-breaking crux moves to exit onto a good ledge.
21R 30m. Beware of loose rock. Take all the gear to cam #0.5, singles of #0.75 to #3 and all the wires. Cam #4 not necessary. Climb the chossy corner above the left end of the ledge until just before it slabs out. Place good kit and traverse right on hollow yellow lichen rock, then up to the right edge of a ledge system that goes into the alcove up and left. Avoid the alcove – instead traverse right then trend up and right to a good rail in welcome solid rock. Traverse right then up to a small ledge with a large cammed flake. Continue up right to belay on Giggle Ledge - an outrageous sloping perch on the arête. YOLT comes into this ledge from right of the big arête.
21 20m. Grey Groove. Take all the gear to cam #1, singles of #2 and #3 and all the wires. Save one each of cams #1 to #3 for the stance. Exit the ledge up and right (shared with YOLT). Instead of moving right on that route to bird shit ledges, climb the grey groove on the left wall. When this dies, step left to the arête and make wildly exposed moves up to a ridiculously awesome perch.
22 50m. The Emotional Pitch. It’s better than therapy. Take all the gear. Move about 5m left then up to an obvious dihedral capped by small roofs. Up the dihedral, then rail right at the roofs and mantle onto a small ledge. Climb the blunt arête just above the left edge of the ledge. Up and left then up the smooth wall past a bolt and crucial flake to a big rail. Rail right then up to a rest with an obvious crack above. Swim up the jams and funkiness just left of the detached (but solid) pillar. At a big jug traverse right over the top of the pillar, then climb the crack above. Exit this leftwards to obviously easier ground. Swing onto a crazy horn, then slightly left and up to hero jugs. Let it all out, and be sure to look straight down to the start of the route. Rail right on the narrow ledge to the arête, then scramble up 5m to the next ledge. Traverse back left to belay above the hero jugs.
19 15m. Climb a few meters up the bushy break on the left. Move left onto a rounded prow and climb this to the massive top-out ledge. Coil the ropes and put on approach shoes. Walk off about 40m leftwards through the bush to a big, open terrace. Keep traversing left until able to scramble easily up to the summit.
Variations: P3 can be dodged (grade 20) by climbing PSYCHO REPTILE’s’s pitch just to the left. P5 can be dodged (grade 21) by continuing rightwards up YOLT, then breaking left into the greenish hanging corner to Giggle Ledge. A less aesthetic version of P7 (similar grade) is to continue up YOLT’s corner to a rail which then goes hard left to the awesome perch.
FA:Hector Pringle, Gustav Janse Van Rensburg & Marianne Schwankhart, Feb 2019
FFA:Hector Pringle, Tim Dunnett, Marianne Schwankhart & Mel Janse Van Rensburg, Nov 2019
40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).
40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).
40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.
40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.
40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.
50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.
45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.
40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the
chimney to a ledge.
60m Roped scrambling to the top.
FA:Stewart Middlemiss, Kevin Smith & Clive Curson, 1990
Start about 250m right of MOONLIGHT a short distance past a large pile of
boulders. A series of corners and ledges slant diagonally up rightward for about 30m. A prominent series of overhangs leads diagonally up leftwards about 33m up.
30m 12 Start up short steep recess then diagonally up right to ledge. Step right and climb up just right of overhanging recess to next ledge. Climb up, via another ledge then a series of vertical cracks to small stance.
30m 14 Traverse left 8m via prominent detached block (appears safe) to recess right of pillar. Climb 3m up thin recess then traverse delicately left around pillar into another recess. Move up left side of recess (loose blocks at start) to just below overhang. Traverse 3m left then up, passing overhang on left to ledge.
23m 16 Climb up 3m and traverse left 7m into base of open recess. Climb up slightly right, to short overhanging section. Climb this to small ledge on right.
30m 14 Traverse left, moving up in a few places and finish traverse along
narrow, grass covered ledge. From left of ledge, climb up steep face on slightly unsound rock, move slightly left, into easier angled recess slanting up rightwards and follow this to large ledge.
43m 14 Step up and traverse 8m right to below bulging face. Surmount bulge at easiest point then traverse towards small tree in vegetated recess. Avoiding tree on the left, traverse across recess and climb right hand face which steepens near the top, to stance in easier angled recess above.
17m 7 Climb diagonally right to large grassy ledge. Walk about 85m rightwards to where ledge ends at overhanging vegetated recess.
25m 14 Traverse right across recess and climb up 3m to grassy ledge. Traverse back left into vegetated recess above overhang and climb it to stance on the left.
25m 16 Climb diagonally up left for 12m then straight up to ledge below steep face. From left end of ledge climb up thin face to just below a turf ledge. Step right and continue diagonally up right to ledge.
25m 16 Climb face above, partly via layback crack, to base of overhanging corner and jamming crack (hard). Ascend this and continue to large stance.
14m 7 Traverse right to large tree in lush recess (Jungle Ledge - superb bivvy). About 35m above ledge are two chimneys. The route goes up right hand one.
25m 14 Climb recess behind tree starting left and traversing to the right side 4m up. Continue up to overhang at top of recess and move out delicately around corner into groove in right hand face. Climb up 5m to ledge on right.
30m 16 Climb face diagonally above for 7m. Trend left towards ledge below
prominent right hand overhanging chimney. Climb to chimney with difficulty and
climb it more easily to ledge below red, recessed face (bivy site).
25m 17 About 8m up face is small tree with a crack to its left. Climb face,
starting on the right then traversing left into crack just below tree. Aid on a nut to pass tree on left and continue as far as possible up crack system to awkward resting place in small open book. Aid on piton to the left to cross an undercut face and gain base of prominent chimney. Climb up 8m to ledge.
25m 18 Climb the chimney and continuation cracks to ledge.
25m 16 Climb continuation chimney above.
25m 10 Continue up until able to scramble.
66m 5 With bits of 10, scramble via short unpleasant chimney to summit.
Climbs the pillar to the left of the 50m long roof situated about 70m up, between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE. Start below the pillar at a V in the path between two boulders. Above is an obvious fist crack on the left side of a large flake.
20m 21 Climb the fist crack, move right, and climb the final few metres from the top of the flake to gain a narrow, continuous ledge.
30m 19 Climb up to the base of an obvious V-groove, and climb this to exit right. Traverse right, move up into the base of a stepped corner and climb this to a ledge on the arête on the left.
25m 18 Climb up about 15 metres to the level of a prominent traverse line which is followed left to a stance on the arête (a loose pitch).
50m 20 Climb more or less straight up to large grass ledge. The next pitch starts about 10 metres to the right, from a tree about 6 metres left of a damp corner.
50m 19 Move up steeply and rail right to pull onto a ledge. Follow a left trending dihedral to a ledge, then climb straight up, keeping left, to a high stance.
40m 16 Climb up rightwards to a grassy ledge at the left base of a huge pinnacle. Climb the recess on the left side of the pinnacle to a ledge on top.
30m 21 Step onto the face at the base of obvious left trending crack system. Tricky moves to start lead to recess which is climbed to semi-stance on the left.
20m 21 Climb the left-hand left-leaning crack, moving left at the top to gain a scoop. Continue up leftwards until able to traverse left to a stance.
45m 20 Starting on the left, climb up to a scoop. Continue up the break, through a tree, and climb the right-hand crack through two roofs to reach a good ledge (MOONLIGHT stance). Jam through the apex of the roof to the highest ledge.
40m 19 Climb the right leaning crack, traverse left to the base of a right facing dihedral, and climb this to large ledges.
75m 15 Follow the right-trending ramp on the wall above. Continue to the top.
Between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE, there is a 50m long roof at 70m height. In
the middle of the roof are two large flake lines. Below the right-hand one, on a ledge about 10m off the normal ground level, is a pillar with a chimney-sized gap behind it.
Start at the base of the right hand side of the pillar.
45m 20. Climb right hand side of pillar. Continue up flake line until first roof is reached. Move left to a break, and continue up to narrow ledge, directly above pillar, and about 8m below main roof.
30m A2. Great Roof Pitch. Thrash through hanging gardens up and left from
stance (the swath of clear-cut from FA is likely to have re-grown). Move left at roof, then out along flake. At piton, move left for two moves onto drilled bat hook hole Move up through overlap to reach rail, then right onto ledge with poor peg belay.
40m 16. Move right into corner, then up and left to a grassy ledge, belaying off a tree. Awesome bivy to right of tree on cleared ledge below some low roofs (blackened corner). Next pitch starts from left end of these roofs, as for PROJECT THREE. The Grassy Ledge can be reached by walking right.
30m 20. (As for PROJECT THREE) Pull through initial overhang at chest height, move right, then follow corner to next roof. Move left, then up to stance on small ledge 10m left of peg on HEY JUDE.
35m 20 (As for PROJECT THREE) Clamber up blocks forming right hand side of
stance. Follow intermittent crack above, stepping left when holds run out, then right again 2m higher. Continue up to stance on right end of Jungle Ledge.
50m 22A2+. Move up and right from stance, with very technical climbing leading to left-facing corner 15m right of HALFMOON’s chimney. When free climbing becomes untenable, start aiding. Beyond the roof, technically easy but exciting aid leads up and left of overhang, then up again on slabs until a stance can be made just below the right-leaning cracks.
40m 22 (19A1) Step left from the stance to gain the long right-leaning crack. Follow this until the crack splits. The right-hand line becomes a frightening offwidth through a huge roof. Follow the left-hand line around the roof with two points of aid, then right into a gully (as for SCATTERLINGS).
15m 15. Continue up through trees until the Disco Ledge Bivi is reached (a flattopped pillar about the area of a small car, with a small cave/fissure behind).
5m 15. Leave the Disco Ledge via the crack that the gully has narrowed to.
100m. Contribute to deforestation on your way to the top.
Special equipment. Two hooks suitable for small edges, two standard hooks,
one hook for 5mm wide, 8mm deep holes. Aiders (etriers) are useful. A handbolting kit is recommended to beef-up the second stance with two bolts. A
double or triple rack of small wires is useful for pitch 6.
Free notes. Pitch 2 can probably be mostly freed at grades that someone you
know can climb. Pitch 6 would be bold, but most moves should be doable free.
Pitch 7 sounds suspiciously like the crux of SCATTERLINGS (22)?
A 50m long roof is situated about 70m up, between HALF MOON and HEY JUDE.
SCATTERLNGS climbs up about 10m to the right of the right hand end of the roof.
Directly below this point, scramble up 2m to the base of a short square recess. This
point is about 15m left of HEY JUDE’s start.
40m 18 Straight up a blocky rock, past wide ledge and small tree to base of crack
system running up scooped face. Climb crack and corner then traverse 4m left to
ledge on arête. 10m up to the right is obvious small nose-like roof.
35m 21 Climb right and up to a rail which extends rightwards 4m below nose. Rail
right, about 3m past the nose, then climb up until level with roof. Traverse left onto
the nose then move up to a rail which is followed left until able to climb up
leftwards to a small ledge. Climb up a few metres further to a large ledge on the
right. One is now directly above the start of the climb.
55m 18 35m up to the left is a small tree. Climb diagonally leftwards up railed face.
At about 20m move right past end of long narrow roof. From small tree follow leftleading
corner to ledge on top of pillar. Continue up to left end of Grassy Ledge.
The chains of the Rap Route are just below the ledge.
40m 13 Climb up obvious gully/corner on left side of pillar (HEY JUDE climbs right
side of pillar). Before the top of gully traverse left a few metres until able to climb
up and left to ledge directly above previous stance. (HEY JUDE stances further
left, where there are chains hidden by grassy tuft).
45m 21 Move past a small cammed block to righthand end of ledge. Climb up
rightward to gain vague crack system leading up wall. Climb crack to its end, then
move left to base of narrow left facing dihedral. Climb this to small roof then move
slightly left to gain a crack (about 2m right of HEY JUDE). Climb up to rail and
traverse 3m right. Climb straight up past a prong to ledge, move 2m left, then
continue up to long narrow ledge.
Walk left for half a rope length, to a point 10m right of the tallest tree (Jungle Ledge).
HALFMOON heads up big recess on the left.
20m 18 turn the small roof a few metres up, then zig-zag up face above to reach
ledge and block. Above and slightly left are two steep.
20m 21 Climb up and left to base of right-hand chimney (HALF MOON).
Undercling left to gain left hand chimney/recess which is followed to ledge.
20 m 18 It makes sense to link pitches 8 and 9 to avoid the cubbeyhole
stance. Climb diagonally right to gain right leaning crack. Gain the top of large
block/flake left of crack. Continue up crack to cubbyhole (uncomfortable).
20m 22 Climb the continuation crack (amazing!) until an easier angled slab on the
right is reached. Stance at apex of slab.
45m 17 Move round right into recess. 10m up this climb out diagonally rightwards
and continue up to easy ground and ledges.
Starts between SCATTERLINGS and EIGHT MILES HIGH, about 15 metres left of HEY JUDE, straight up to the grass ledge between the two climbs. Start about 5 metres left of EIGHT MILES HIGH.
40m 17 Up 7m then 2m right to crack which is about 6m left of EMH. More or
less straight up to a ledge.
40m 19 Climb up behind stance passing small overhang on the right at
7m. Continue up and slightly left to pass another roof on the left. Rail haul
up to ledge under small roof above previous stance (5m left of EMH).
35m 22R 7m up is a bulge with a small triangle in it. When established above this, move left 2m then straight up the crack to the Grassy Ledge. Walk up and 25m left to cleaned ledge, below some overhanging rock (3m right of
30m 20R Climb corner above blackened overhang, moving right at
15m (take care on loose rock). Move up, then trend back leftwards to ledge
slightly above and 5m left of HEY JUDE’s peg stance (rap chains hidden
by grass tuft).
35m 20R Climb the crack above the left hand edge of the stance, stepping
right at about 12m, then moving up and back left. Stance at the right edge of the HALFMOON Jungle Ledge.
45m 18 Climb the short corners rightish to reach the slabby face. Continue up leftwards to the base of a crack through a steep orange section. Aid this or (alt.) climb the narrow HALFMOON chimney (5m left) to a ledge.
45m 23R Continue up just left of the tree to the rap bolts. Traverse right and climb the left facing corner offwidth and continuation corner above the niche on HALFMOON, to a small ledge where the crack splits under a large roof. The bulge is harder for climbers shorter than 1.8m.
35m 18 Climb the right hand crack up to a big rail and move out right under the roof to bucket seat on the lip. Continue up the crack and ledges above on the right to the HEY JUDE scramble.
The runouts on pitches 3 and 5 are relatively safe. Pitch 4 is quite serious due to loose rock and minimal gear. A large cam (probably a #6) will make the crux pitch more appealing and eliminate the “R” rating for this pitch.
Takes a fairly direct line up the wall, the first three pitches between SCATTERLINGS
and HEY JUDE, and the remaining between HEY JUDE and SOMETHING OF
Start about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.
45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge.
Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and
right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE).
35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance.
Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop.
35m 15 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. Directly
above is an immaculate corner, about 10m right of HEY JUDE.
20m 22 Gain the base of the dihedral, climb it and pull though the overhang to
beneath the long roof (blade peg). It makes sense to link straight into the next
pitch to avoid a factor-2 fall. If not, rail right to a long ledge (SOMETHING OF
VALUE stances further to the right).
15m 21 Circle-Arrow Pitch: Climb left and up from the left end of the ledge to
gain the rail beneath the roof. Rail left to a ledge.
15m 21 Hot Tin Roof pitch: Climb the crack on the left side of the ledge to
beneath a roof. Turn this on the right and climb a short recess to exit left to a
30m 21 Climb more or less straight up the face above to gain the ledge beneath
the long roof. Pull through the roof at the narrowest point and move left. Climb a
short steep face to a narrow stance.
40m 19 Climb up leftwards for a few metres until able to traverse easily right some
way to the base of a short pillar. Traverse right from top of pillar, to the base of
prominent left-facing corner. Up this to ledge, then up corner above to reach the
boggling ledge on top of the main pillar (Stance of the Eagles).
35m 24 (21A0) Pendulum pitch: Climb a few metres up the narrow dihedral to a
fixed wire. Downclimb to the ledge and pendulum to the base of a corner further
right, or drop down with your hands at the level of the ledge and traverse right
(free) across the face (or dispense with the toprope altogether and rely on two
good cams at the level of the ledge to protect the crux). Climb the corner system
until able to exit left to a long ledge. Traverse left (past the SOMETHING OF
VALUE off-width) to belay above the previous stance.
40m 20 Emmlets Direct Pitch: Climb up the black scoop (no pro) to reach holds
above the overlap. Climb straight up the obvious crack to the biggest ledge. Above
and slightly left is a chimney whose base is blocked by trees. (Alternatively: From
the stance traverse left, climb up and traverse back right above the overlap to gain
the obvious crack - 19).
45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Move left at the top
then diagonally left up the slab into the corner beneath a roof-crack. Climb the
crack, keeping right at first then trending left to gain the final ledge.
Scramble to the top.
FA:Kevin Smith, Stewart Middlemiss & George Mallory, 1988
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake.
45m 16 Climb to bottom of flared chimney crack. Step across right to a little foot ledge and pull up. Traverse 1.5m right then ascend face, moving diagonally left as high as possible. Traverse about 8m left to below hanging block. Ascend crack system 2m left of hanging block. Climb face in steps diagonally right to good ledge.
35m 17 Climb up to narrow roof. Traverse 8m to the right. Continue hand traversing 6m to end of traverse line. Pull overhang and climb face to good ledge.
45m 16 Climb slightly diagonally right for about 15m. Traverse left for about 5m via pull-up on block. Follow recess line diagonally left to Grassy Ledge.
Walk to pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to base of crack forming right side of pillar.
30m 15 Climb crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to a good handrail. Hand traverse left for about 15m to a good ledge. The rap chains are hidden by a grass tuft near the stance.
35m 20 (17A1) Climb up via small ledge to bottom of recess (the only one cutting through this face). Use aid (one knife) to get to crack. Follow crack for 5m using another aid point to reach small ledge above. Climb up for 6m and then diagonally left to block (mostly aid climbing with a few free moves). Climb diagonally out right to sloping block. Continue straight up to narrow ledge (originally 3 pitches). This ledge leads leftwards to the Jungle Ledge bivy site.
35m 14 From end of pitch 5 continue up shallow groove for about 10m and then traverse diagonally right to big block.
15m 20 (17A1) Twin Cracks Pitch: Ascend crack left of block with some aid moves, to the left side of the pillar. Continue to top of pillar.
35m 19 (17A1) Climb off-width crack above the ledge (use one sling for aid just below the ledge). Follow chimney-type recess to ledge and stance on right.
20m 12 Climb diagonally right into gully above. Scramble 10m through trees to mouth of deep cave.
40m 14 Climb slabs on left to broken ground.
30m 11 Fight 10m to chossy gully and climb same to top.
A #4 Camalot and #4 Friend or equivalent are useful on pitch 8.
FFA:Jerry Linke, H Zangerl, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1981
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).
45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.
38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m (through small roof). Straight up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.
38m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge. (blocks).
Walk to the right hand end of the Grassy Ledge. Down climb to a stance on the far right of the ledge, at the base of chossy-looking, east-facing corner.
35m 18 (17A0) Climb corner, stepping right at the top. Pull through roof on the left. Move right a few metres to a break. Follow this for 25m to a stance near some blocks (17A0 if you rest on a nut below the roof).
50m 15 2m right is a left facing corner capped by a half metre roof. Climb this and continue up the next right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left until the ledge narrows, then blast straight up the wall above finishing up a left leaning corner crack to a large ledge. Climb up the wall to a small pillar. Move delicately right and then head for the yellowwood tree at the big platform up and right.
15m 15 Head for the next yellowwood tree up and left. Follow the recess above to large ledges. The Bivi Cave lies to the right.
45m 17 Move through the yellowwood and step off it on to the thin face. Climb the face diagonally left to the arête, follow this to the corner. Up this to step left at the big roof. Wind through on monster jugs to huge ledge.
38m 18 From the upper ledge attack the jug forest above. Move right on to thinner stuff a little higher and climb to ledge.
25m 16 Start from right hand side of large boulder. Climb the break, moving out left and exit into jungle.
25m 15 LAST MOON takes the obvious major chimney behind the jungle. Climb the jug infested face just right of the chimney.
This RD is a stand alone version of the easiest pleasant route up the north wall. It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), MOONRAKER (pitch 4 and some of pitch 5), LAST MOON (pitches 6 and 7) and ROAD WARRIOR (pitches 8 and 9).
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).
45m 16 Climb a few metres up the corner and then move right on to the face.
Climb tending leftwards to the base of a short corner crack. Climb this and finish up and right to a stance.
35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance, then climb trending slightly leftwards to a reasonable ledge.
35m 15 Climb the water worn scoop above trending right at the top to exit on to the mega Grassy Ledge. Walk about 10m to the right.
20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher.
VARIATION 40m 21 (not recommended – lots of bird shit): Start further right and climb the recess that leads to a ledge just left of the big roofs (as for BLUE MOON and WOW FUCK). Rail left for 5m until able to pull onto the face. Climb diagonally up and left over bird-shit until able to step left to the pegs on pitch 5.
Either take a hanging stance here, or, if you have enough gear, continue up the rest of pitch 5.
45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing.
25m 25 From the front of the jumbo ledge, below the 1.5m high step in the ledge (i.e. from the lower ledge), climb easily up the leftward diagonal crack to a two foot roof. Move through this and up the crack above to stance above the next overlap. There is good gear below the crux sequence.
35m 20 Move left then up and right into a thin crack. Climb up a bit and then head leftwards to the base of a clean corner system. Climb the corners to exit left to a long ledge. Scuttle left to belay about 3m beyond the obvious off-width crack.
40m 20 Climb up about 5m to gain a crack. Climb this to stance at the highest ledge.
45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Step left at the top of the slab to below a roof crack. Up this keeping right at first then exit left to the ledge.
Stay roped to scramble rightwards up the stepped ledge system and then up to the top.
In the interests of the quest for consumer climbing on the big blue mountain, this RD is a stand-alone version of a pretty direct variation of existing routes up the craggy section of the main wall with a few new pitches thrown in for good measure. HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2, 3, 8 and 9) and SOMETHING OF VALUE (pitch 4 and first half of pitch 5). The second half of pitch 5 and pitches 6 and 7 are independent of other routes.
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the
highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for
45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a
flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.
38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m through small
roof. Amble up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a
30m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then
stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge (blocks).
Walk to major pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the
right facing corner formed by the pillar.
30m 15 Climb the crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to
a good handrail. Traverse left for about 15m to stance at chains (hidden by a tuft
45m 20 Climb past peg (17A1) above into recess. At top of recess, move
through left break (17A1) on to face above. Trend left and then right to reach the
right end of the Jungle Ledge.
55m 18 20m above the ledge are two chimneys. Head for the right hand one and
climb it, then continue past a good ledge up and right and then left to chains.
45m 18 Climb chimney to chains.
30m 13 Scramble out and up to chains.
Stay roped for the scramble to the top.
This route was opened as a fast but pleasant outing basically using the rap
ladder in reverse (from the Grassy Ledge upwards!). It climbs parts of HEY
JUDE (pitches 1 and 4), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3),
SCATTERLINGS (part of pitch 6) and HALF MOON (remainder of pitch 6 and
pitches 7 and 8).
Pitch 5 was originally graded 18, for this route, but is grade 20 for HEY JUDE.
20 is a fair grade.
Start about 400m to the right of the prominent corner where MOONLIGHT starts.
From that corner, traverse along the ledge at the base of the main face past a large
pile of boulders to an obvious 40m high pillar with a gnarly crack system along its lefthand
side. The initial pitches follow the crack system.
40m 19 Climb to ledge beneath 2 chimneys. Climb right chimney awkwardly to
second ledge, above which the crack steepens. Climb crack system (crux) to just
below cubbyhole below overhangs. Swing 1,5m right to vertical crack on face of
pinnacle. Climb crack to ledge.
36m 16 Traverse about 8m right then climb diagonally left past loose flake to
resting place below steep face. Move up and left to where the angle eases.
Continue up to the left over ledges, then diagonally right to stance.
40m 12 Climb up and diagonally left to stance at the base of Grassy Ledge.
Walk to right-hand end of Grassy Ledge. MOONRAKER takes the chossy-looking,
east facing corner above.
10m 10 Climb down small pinnacle to narrow ledge. Continue right to a stance.
40m 16 Climb diagonally left to small left-facing corner in overhangs. Climb the
corner to off balance ledge, then right for about 1.5m to small, steep recess. Climb
this to where the angle eases and continue diagonally right to a stance.
40m 12 From right-hand end of stance, climb 3m, traverse 5m left, then move up.
Step to the right, then move up to prominent ledge below overhang. Traverse left
to stance in small recess.
12m 11 Hand swing to the left and then continue traversing to the main recess.
Climb the right-hand side about 4m to a block ledge with a yellow wood tree (good
two man bivi site).
35m 17 Climb recess to ledge at top of pinnacle. Difficult sections at about 10m
and 30m. One point of aid was used in the second difficult section.
25m 14 Climb steep knobbly face leftwards past tree and then continue up slanting
recesses to large ledge, Bivi Cave and yellowwood trees.
50m 17 Crawl through yellowwood tree to face on outside of recess. Climb steep
face for 8m, at first upward, then diagonally left to join the recess. Continue to top
of recess to small ledge beneath overhangs. From right edge of ledge, climb to
overhang. Traverse left to left facing corner in overhang. Climb steeply to large
38m 14 From right end of ledge, climb diagonally right to where rock steepens.
Climb more or less straight up to large ledge.
Walk about 50m left along the ledge.
15m 11 Move up small face into slanting recess then up to a ledge. Traverse right
then up short chimney to large bushy ledge.
Walk 20m to right to base of obvious steep chimney (the right hand of 2 chimneys).
25m 12 Climb the chimney and continue to the top.
Variation to pitches 7 and 8: 40m 16 Climb directly up from the stance and continue up a face and crack to the stance at the top of pitch 8.
Variation to pitch 9: 25m 20 Climb the left curving corner crack at the back right of the ledge. Continue up chimney to Bivi Cave.
17m 21 Climb up to and through the apex of inverted V recess, then move up
and right to belay in a hollow.
30m 27 Climb the continuation recess and crack past two bolts on the headwall.
Continue easily for another 15 metres to a ledge (shared with LAST MOON)
(Alternative: 23 Climb the continuation recess but traverse right beneath the
headwall, to a recess which is climbed diagonally leftwards to rejoin the last 15
metres of the original pitch). It makes sense to combine the first two pitches.
30m 18 Climb straight up then slightly leftwards to a ledge.
40m 14 Climb up to the Grassy Ledge.
30m 18 Start about 5 metres right of the large flake lying against the back of the
grass ledge. Climb a crack/recess leading to a ledge in the base of a left facing
corner. Extending to the right is a very large roof about 25 metres above the
grass ledge. Move right around the arête and continue traversing rightwards until
able to move up to a hanging belay immediately beneath the widest part of the
roof. A handrail runs right beneath the roof from the stance.
15m 21 Drop back down to a level about 3 metres beneath the roof. Traverse
right for about 8 metres, then climb diagonally left to a stance above the right
end of the roof. (Alternative: 22A1 Rail right until able to pull round the lip.
Traverse left to a stance on the edge of the roof).
45m 17 Climb up for about 15 metres to a long ledge. From a point a couple of
metres left of the widest part of the ledge, climb up then trend right across the
face. Stance on a ledge a few metres right of a 5 metre long lens shaped roof.
(Stance shared with TEDDY BEARS PICNIC).
40m 21 Climb the right-hand crack/flake, and traverse right to a flared crack
leading to ledge (pitch shared with TEDDY BEARS PICNIC up to here).
Continue up and right to the LAST MOON Bivi Cave in the base of a left facing
45m 20 Crawl out to the right and pull onto the face 2 metres right of LAST
MOON. Climb diagonally rightwards across the face, heading for the skyline.
After a thin traverse right, continue right and up until able to move back left and
up to belay at the right hand end of a large ledge (last 8 metres shared with
40m 17 Climb diagonally right for about 10 metres, to a one metre block on a
ledge. Continue more or less straight up to a large ledge. (This pitch climbs
between ROAD WARRIOR and LAST MOON).
35m 13 Walk left and select a pitch up to a broad bushy ledge. (Alternative: 17
fight right to the base of a third chimney).
20m 16 Climb the face to the right of the right hand chimney. (Alternative: 13
Climb to the top if you climbed the alternative to pitch 11).
Pitch 6 is tricky. The leader is well protected but the second might have an
Pitch 8 was originally graded 20, which is a sandbag.
The route starts 10m right of LAST MOON at a 3m flake/pillar.
40m 18 From the top of the flake, climb straight up the break above to stance on a
ledge on the right.
40m 17 Continue directly up the break, through a small overhang at 30m to a
stance at the base of a small face.
40m 18 Climb straight up to the Grassy Ledge. It is unnecessary to deviate more
than a metre or 2 either way anywhere on the first 3 pitches.
Walk about 20m to the left (i.e. to about 4m right of the striking dihedral, capped by a
long roof, taken by EIGHT MILES HIGH).
20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up cracks until
able to traverse right to another crack. Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m
right to belay below the corner.
20m 21 Climb the face to a rail leading left to the base of the dihedral, which is
climbed to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading
crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the
corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m
right and down to the base of a short crack/groove.
25m 19 Move up the crack to rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres.
Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right then down to a small ledge.
20m 18 Move up and left until under the roof. Continue traversing leftwards until it
is possible to gain a small ledge in the break.
30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a
rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the
stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge.
20m 17 Traverse left to an off-width crack (mostly walking).
40m 21 Key Crack: Climb directly up until the going gets easier. Continue to the
55m 16 Climb the crack above to a ledge 10m up. Move 5m right to the clean
break, which is climbed for 5m. Move 4m right to gain the knobbly slabs above.
Climb these straight up to a stance on a short square pillar.
Stay roped for the scramble to the top.
Takes a direct line, between SOV and TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC. Start 5m right of SOV
below an overlap which turns into a short, right-facing corner higher up.
35m 22 The One-More-Time Pitch. Climb 5m to the small roof, then rightwards
into the overlap. Climb up to another small roof and rail right, then up the rightfacing
corner above. The crack pinches out here so traverse 3m right to a crack.
Up this to just below where it dies, then traverse 4m back left to rejoin the original
crack line. Climb this to a ledge shared with SOV.
40m 18 Up then slightly left from the stance, through some steep rock, to a ledge.
Traverse right to a small amphitheatre with a short corner on each side and a big
roof above. Climb up to the apex of the left hand right-facing corner, layback
round the small roof to under the big roof. Rail left to a ledge.
40m 17 Traverse 10m left. Climb a shattered pillar to the next ledge. Head
diagonally right then up to the grassy ledge.
40m 21 Rolling Stones Pitch. There are big roofs above the right hand half of the
ledge. A massive corner with three roofs breaks through to the left of the biggest
roofs. Climb the recess to a ledge beneath the corner (shared with WOW FUCK).
Climb the corner, railing right under the first and second roof. Just after the
second roof, traverse right across the face to an outrageous foot ledge on the
skyline. Climb up the prow then step back left into the corner (now above the final
roof). Climb this to a good small ledge.
50m 18 Step right and make thin moves up to a big rail. Traverse about 8m right to
a vertical crack, up this then rail right to another vertical crack. Up again then step
right to belay beneath the middle of 3 cracks (the right hand diagonal crack in a
yellow wall is TBP, SOV breaks through the roofs about 20 or 30m left).
35m 25 Legoland pitch. "This 'aint no sport route". Savour the warm-up moves in
the corner until able to step left around the arête onto a slab. Climb up the small
trapezoid pillar on the left then pull through the bulge to a rail. Breathe through
your arse as you move up and left to a bolt. Diabolical crimps lead horizontally left
to a rest beneath the next bolt. Climb up past the bolt and traverse thankfully left
to juglets. Up to the big ledge. Walk left to below the large right-facing corner.
TBP goes up the face with 2 bolts to the right.
35m 23 Knifeblade Pitch. Climb the corner, past a peg. Traverse right to a small
ledge. Climb the crack above the left hand side of the ledge & follow the break
curving up left. Traverse left until able to easily climb up to a good ledge.
60m 21 Walk 5m right to a sheltered alcove. Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack
until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto
the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope.
30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.
A well-protected route. Pitches 6 and 7 are bold, but safe. Bolts (60mm, M10
stainless steel, placed in 2005) and peg (BD knifeblade, 2005) placed on abseil.
Gear: double rack of small cams, small wires on pitch 1, #3 Camalot on pitch 7.
Pitches 4, 6 & 7 cleaned and inspected on abseil and mostly top-roped before
being led. Pitches 6, 7 & 8 opened, subsequently freed.
Start about 35m right of LAST MOON, below a 3m by 2m roof 15m up (as for
45m 20 Climb flake to recess between flakes (MOONRAKER takes right flake).
Move left and up then traverse left to (delicate) double flakes. Up these to narrow
roof, which is turned to gain recess. Climb this, moving right at top.
40m 20 Move 2m left, then climb steeply until able to finger-rail left through top of
green patch. Move up and diagonally right to reach a ledge. Climb left facing
corner, pull right through roof and stance.
35m 16 Climb up to Grassy Ledge. Walk right.
50m 20 Start a few metres left of pinkish-white amphitheatre, directly below the
point where main roof tapers to about 1,5 metres. Climb deviously up orange face
to rounded blocky buttress beneath roof. Pull through and move up to base of
recess. Climb easily up to left of recess to reach a large ledge on the left.
30m 17 Climb obvious recess directly above previous pitch and continue up to a
stance at the base of two cracks (LAST MOON's obvious gully is to the right).
30m 21 Climb the right-leaning right crack (narrow dihedral), and traverse right to
a left facing corner crack, which is followed to reach the left end of a ledge (LAST
MOON's Bivi Cave to the right).
30m 20 Traverse left to big ledges – awesome!
35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2
bolts, trend right, then up and left to a small ledge. Continue up to next (big) ledge
at base of right facing corner.
35m 15 Move left and climb up to ledges. Continue up face to right of a bushy
crack and stance on ledge on right (follow your nose on this pitch).
35m 15 Move right across crack, climb up and right to an easy face which is
followed right to a large ledge.
45m 15 Climb to the top.
Pitch 8 (Precious Mettles) was originally bolted on abseil by Mike Cartwright as a
direct finish to SOMETHING OF VALUE.
The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These very dodgy old ones were replaced with new M10, 100mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.
Pitch 7 was first climbed by Mike Cartwright before the route was opened.
The remainder of the route was opened on-sight, in a day.
It is possible to traverse right to LAST MOON from the last part of pitch 4 and from many places on pitch 5, at about grade 18 (depending).
SOMETHING OF VALUE joins the big ledge at the end of pitch 7 from directly
below and then traverses left.
FA:George Mallory, Stewart Middlemiss, Kevin Smith & Mike Cartwright, 1988
The route starts 50m right of LAST MOON and 15m left of NEW MOON. There are
two large flakes below a roof 20m up. Right of the route is a corner facing west.
25m 16 Climb up right hand flake. At the top, climb up small corner to 3m below
large roof. Step delicately right and move up to stance at the base of corner that
40m 18 Start 2m right of corner and climb up past tricky move at 4m then
rightwards over easier ground for about 5m. Climb left to top of corner. Climb up
about 5m to stand on 1 m high block with cracks on both sides of it. Traverse 3m
left and move (with difficulty) left around bulge. Climb up with difficulty for 6m to
ledge where a 30cm block is cammed below small roof. Pull the roof and continue
45m 18 Climb up slightly diagonally right for 35m to under a roof (generally easy
ground with hard move at 10m). Climb the roof at a break which is 6m right of
stance below. Move left onto jugs then back right to stand on lip of roof. Climb up
another 4m to stance at small tree.
30m 10 Scramble up to Grassy Ledge.
45m 18 From right end of Grassy Ledge climb up broken crack in a corner which
faces east. At top of crack move right and crank small roof. Continue a few metres
up and right to below a small roof. Strenuously through roof and continue up for
another 8m to where rock steepens. Traverse right 3m and then climb up to ledge.
Walk left 20m to base of prominent west-facing open book with jam crack.
45m 16 Climb open book for 3m and step left onto smooth face. Climb up to a 1m roof with jam crack. Pull roof and continue straight up to ledge. From right of ledge move right. Climb up easy ground to 2m high pinnacle. Traverse right onto grassy ledge and stance. Climb up 5m to blocky ledge behind yellowwood tree.
45m 16 From right side of ledge climb up to foot rail. Use a hand rail to gain recess on the right. Move right around arête onto knobbly face. Traverse right for 20m then climb up to stance between two prominent corners/cracks which are 8m
apart. The third crack splitting a yellow, lichen-covered face to the left is climbed by ROAD WARRIOR.
45m 19 Climb the middle crack which curves rightwards in an undercling (crux) near the top. After the crux, move left onto knobbly face. Climb up diagonally left to
eventually gain a huge ledge (common stance with LAST MOON).
45m 18 From extreme left of ledge climb a big west-facing corner for 15m. At the top of the corner move right onto knobbly rock. Up 1m then back left for 3m.
Straight up to the huge ledge.
20m 16 Climb a finger crack directly behind the stance. Move 1m left at about 15m and climb up to the large bundu ledge.
15m 16 Bash through bushes right for 10m. There are two deep chimneys 3m
apart. The right chimney is the final pitch of LAST MOON. Climb the left chimney to the roof and move left then up a layback to the summit.
The route was opened in a day with no aid, falls, yo-yos etc. Pitches 6, 7 and 8
were climbed two months previously with S Isabeck while off route.
It makes sense to climb to the Grassy Ledge in 3 pitches instead of 4. I.e.
combine part of pitch 2 with pitch 1.
About 50m right of the pillar marking the start to LAST MOON is a prominent
overhang about 4m up, increasing in height and size towards the right. The route
starts just to the left of this overhang and takes a line trending slightly to the left, to
below a small line of overhangs about 60m up, which are surmounted on the right.
Start at the base of a short arête, just to the left of the overhang.
30m 18 Climb arête for 4m to ledge and continue up and delicately left, to
resting place just below short steep 4m face right of the crack. Climb up with
difficulty (crux – originally climbed with aid) to ledge, and continue up crack
above for 5m. Traverse 4m right, then move up and back left to small stance in
30m 16 From stance, traverse 2m left, then climb steep, slightly recessed face
and awkward groove above until able to traverse diagonally left to below steep
crack/recess. Climb this past and continue up some dubious rock to small,
exposed stance about 9m below and to the left of the small line overhangs.
30m 16 Climb crack above stance for 4m, then traverse 8m right to 4m below
the overhang (exposed). Climb up steeply to a crouching ledge below overhang,
then traverse 3m right to where overhang narrows. Climb straight up to ledge
and continue up to short, steep face above to a ledge and comfortable stance.
30m 11 Climb diagonally up right past short section of loose rock. Continue
diagonally rightwards to stance on ledge below short crack where rock steepens.
25m 14 Climb the crack, then step delicately right at the top. Continue diagonally
right to below short, steep face, then traverse right into awkward overhanging
recess breaking through the face. Climb this (strenuous) and continue up and
slightly left to stance in open recess, just below where it steepens again.
30m 16 Step left from stance and move 6m up steep recess until able to step
right onto the lip of overhang directly above stance. Traverse 3m right, then
move up and right on to easier rock. Climb recess above to where it steepens
and continue up with difficulty to small overhang before moving left to stance on
a grassy ledge.
30m 16 Climb 8m diagonally right, then straight up to a steep crack, which is
climbed to a resting place on the right. Climb continuation crack till it is possible
to make a spectacular move left. Move up and further left to comfortable grassy
stance below imposing, steep, red face (possible bivi site for two).
45m 18 Climb face above on good grips, moving right higher up and then back
left past a steep section to ledge below prominent steep crack. Climb crack
(strenuous towards the top) and continue diagonally up left on a steep face
above, to where the angle eases. Stance in small recess.
15m 7 Climb diagonally right over ledges to stance below small tree in a corner.
(It is possible to traverse to the left on to LAST MOON from this point).
35m 14 Traverse right on steep rock to an arête, then move up steeply to where
angle eases. Make a long traverse right over knobbly face to a small recess
where an uncomfortable stance is made just below where the rock steepens.
30m 16 Climb recess past a very steep section to where the angle eases.
Continue up and slightly right to the base of crack in smooth corner leading up to
overhang. Climb the crack, then traverse right to ledge to the right of the
overhang. Continue diagonally up right over smooth slab to below short,
awkward recess, which is climbed to large, guano-filled ledge 5m below a very
steep, narrow chimney. (ANCIENT DUST OF AFRICA shares parts of this pitch).
35m 20 (18A2) Climb the steep crack (4 nuts for aid) into the base of chimney
and continue (very strenuous) up this to where the shortly before an overhang.
Climb up the overhang, then move awkwardly out to the left on to on exposed
face. Continue diagonally out to the left, then up to a stance on a big ledge
below a large band of overhangs.
35m 10 Walk 15m right along ledge, past the end of the overhang, then climb up
and back to the left able to scramble to the top.
This is a high-quality linkup of EIGHT MILES HIGH, SOMETHING OF VALUE, TEQUILA SUNRISE, TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC, and BLUE MOON
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. HEY JUDE starts from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake. This routes starts about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.
45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE). (EMH)
35m 18 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop. (EMH)
35m 18 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. (EMH) Follow your nose route finding. Nothing too hard.
20m 19 EMH takes the striking dihedral capped by a long roof. About 4m right of, this climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. (SOV)
45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the leftleading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove. (TS)
25m 19 Move up the crack to a rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right, below the aloe and grass clump. Step down and traverse right to stance where the rock turns to chicken heads. (SOV)
20m 18 Climb up on chicken heads to the right of the aloe clump then trend
leftwards above it, aiming for an undercling crack beneath a small roof. Traverse left here, with your feet above a second, lower roof to gain a small ledge in the break just beyond the left edge of the top roof. (SOV)
30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge. (SOV)
35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a ledge (TP)
60m 21 Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope. Careful on this pitch – it sucks you in to a big lead-out. (BM). An easy alternative is to start 10m left around the corner and climb easy gnarly faces to the top.
Starts up the obvious left-leaning diagonal break about 30m left of THE RAZORS
EDGE (i.e. just right of the pile of huge boulders that one has to crawl through or climb over).
40m 20 Climb the break, passing two bulging to a small stance.
35m 19 up the break for 8m to where it steepens. Traverse left to break in left skyline with spike. Traverse 5m left to small stance.
35m 21 Move up and left a few metres to a small, vague corner and up a few
metres to a roof. Up to a nail (originally aided on 3 points), then left 2m to a break. Climb up and diagonally left to a stance.
40m 19 Up from stance then diagonally right to rejoin the diagonal crack at the base of the grey pillar. Climb up the left-hand side of this to a large stance.
42m 21 [R] Straight up to the right-hand edge of some roofs about 15m up. Pass these on the right and climb up and right to a crack to the left of some more
roofs. Climb this to a stance, passing right of an aloe and bush.
40m 18 Move up and left into a corner. Up the corner and up gnarly rock to
semi-hanging belay where the rock steepens.
42m 19 [R] Straight up through bulge (2-3m right of thin crack). Move slightly right to a crack, up this for a few metres then diagonally left to a long grassy ledge.
Stroll 15m left to below a crack splitting a yellow, lichen covered face. This is a few metres left and below MOONRAKER's 19 (crux) pitch.
48m 19 [R] Straight up the crack to top and straight up bulging wall above to join MOONRAKER for the last few metres to a stance common with LAST MOON as
40m 17 Straight up the jug forest above the stance and move slightly right onto the slab above. Climb straight up and finish left of some aloes to a long ledge.
20m 16 Climb up on the right hand side of the huge boulder to an undercling flake. Move out left and up to the bundu ledge.
Bash across the ledge and climb the chimney of your choice to the top.
Pitches 5, 7 and 8 are not abundantly well protected
FA:Clive Curson, Stewart Middlemiss & Mike Hislop, 1989
Near the right hand side of the North Wall, to the right of the squeeze-through boulder (but to the left of BIG CORNER) is a 20m high rock pillar. Immediately left of the pillar a break extends up and slightly left, initially as a faint crackline, and after 20m as a recess.
40m 21 Climb the faint crack and make thin moves right and up to gain a rail. Traverse left and climb the loose recess to reach small ledges.
30m 23R George's Horror Pitch. Starting on the right climb up and then
traverse about 10m left to a block. Move up 3m to a roof. Rail left until able to pull up rightwards to the next roof. Traverse right to an off balance ledge, step right, and climb up to a small ledge. Rail 5m to the left and move up to a long, narrow ledge. This pitch is very loose, Take care.
30m 20 Traverse left and climb up via the obvious gap in the overhangs. Follow the recess and corner above until able to move right to ledges.
35m 17 Climb up the right leaning break and continue up easy rock to a grassy ledge in a corner and just below a tree (ANCIENT DUST OF AFRICA crosses
30m 13 Move around left onto a face, climb up this, move back right and
continue to ledges.
35m 17 Climb up leftwards and continue up just to the left of overhangs. Climb the break to reach ledges on the right.
45m 19 Climb up 15m to a long narrow overhang. Traverse about 10m left, until able to climb up diagonally right to reach a small left facing corner, about 25m above the stance. Traverse right from the top of the corner and climb the ramp leading to ledge on the right.
25m 18 Traverse right into the base of a huge dihedral, and climb up a few
metres until able to move right to a ledge on the arête.
35m 20 Traverse wildly right to a ledge.
20m 17 Move right and climb the recess/crack to reach two large ledges. BIG
CORNER stances to the right and climbs the obvious crack on the right.
35m 21 Climb steep crack in the left corner. Step left onto face (above stance) and climb this to rounded ledge. Traverse left and move up to sloping ledge.
50m 19 Climb up recess and bottomless chimney. Sneak left. Scramble to top.
A knifeblade provided protection on the crux of the 1st pitch on the FA. Not
necessary with modern gear.
RAZOR'S EDGE DIRECT * * 23 [N]
From the end of pitch 7, traverse right to belay on the ledge below the monster dihedral. This is in the middle of the original RAZOR'S EDGE pitch 8.
50m 23 Get your jam on and climb the corner to a very welcome ledge on the
right hand wall. Wild, outrageous and mind-bendingly brilliant.
60m 19R Place high gear in the crack directly above the stance. Downclimb and choose a level to run it out on crimpers diagonally right to the distant arête.
Climb the jugs on the skyline until level with the roof that caps the monster
dihedral. Rail left until directly above the stance, crank through the very exposed bulge and climb straight up on jugs to the top. Feel free to yodel.
The first 4 pitches climb between THE RAZORS EDGE and BIG CORNER, and the
remainder of the route is located between NEW MOON and THE RAZORS EDGE.
About 25m of climbing are shared with NEW MOON high up. Start at the platform
about 10m below and left of a tree growing out of the wall, below an easy break.
35m 16 Climb the crack to a ledge. Continue up the left-facing dihedral, and then to the highest ledge on the right.
25m 10 Traverse/walk right.
35m 16 Follow the left leaning ramp until a short traverse leads along a ledge on the left.
40m 14 Climb diagonally left towards a tree at the top of a right-facing corner. Stance on the ledge above and left (directly above the start of the route).
50m 11 Traverse left, up, and left to belay at the grassy base of a right-facing dihedral (THE RAZOR’S EDGE crosses here).
45m 16 Move left around the corner, then climb generally left and up, to stance on a good ledge in a right-facing dihedral, 5m below a roof.
45m 16 Move out left beneath the roof then climb straight up the face, past an overlap, to belay 3m below and right of the apex of a large pillar/flake.
30m 20 Climb up from the top of the pillar, then diagonally left. Climb the left-hand crack to a ledge on the left.
45m 18 Climb up on the left, and continue through an overlap to reach easier
angled rock. As for NEW MOON, traverse right and up to a steep crack which is
followed to a stance on the right.
35m 20 Climb the smooth V-corner, traverse right and across a smooth slab, then move up to a ledge (NEW MOON climbs the corner crack above). Traverse right until able to move up to a stance (the monster dihedral avoided by THE RAZOR’S EDGE lies below).
40m 16 Climb slightly rightwards, leftwards, and then straight up to reach
The climb is situated on the right-hand side of the face. The main feature is a huge pink corner starting halfway up the cliff. Start directly below the corner, about 100m to the left of MALEBOCH. The climb starts at a large block leaning against the face to the right of a big tree.
40m 14 Climb chimney on right side of block. Traverse 5m right into shallow groove. Climb groove and wide crack to ledge. Step up and traverse 3m left. Climb to top of block. Traverse 4m right into recess. Ascend this to big ledge.
20m 11 Walk 10m right to end of ledge and climb a recess to base of prominent curving crack.
25m 12 Climb crack for 4m and continue diagonally right around corner to ledge.
20m 12 Climb recess diagonally left via short steep section to small stance and chock belay. This recess runs parallel to curving crack mentioned in pitch 2.
25m 12 Step right. Climb up for 2m and traverse left around a corner. Ascend a recess to a big ledge (shared with MALEBOCH).
25m 14 Climb up behind large flake and continue to the left below steep broken corner. Climb the corner via sloping face to ledge below huge open book.
35m 18 Climb left-hand face for 15m and traverse right into the open book. Climb this to a small ledge. (BIG CORNER DIRECT goes straight up from here).
28m 21 (18A2) Traverse left to break below recess (bivi spot further along this ledge on the corner). Straddle square recess for 5m. Step delicately left onto face and climb steeply to top of pillar. Stretch across right to thin crack. Make two layback moves to below aloe. Step left and mantle onto a ledge. Climb crack above to another ledge, step right under an aloe and move up to stance.
10m 16 Climb a steep corner and exit right via an awkward sloping groove to stance below steep overhanging crack.
40m 20 (18A1) Climb the crack. Continue to the left into a narrow, deep chimney and climb this to large platform.
35m 20 (18A1) Climb right hand crack. Continue up steep crack rightwards, then step right to ledge and stance. Brilliant pitch!
23m 16 Step onto small ledge and pull up strenuously, climbing diagonally left. Continue straight up through small overhang onto face above, using good layback holds. Move diagonally up and right across face to where the angle eases.
Continue up to ledge with trees.
35m 16 Climb a crack on the left and continue up sloping face past tree to a grassy ledge. Climb up steeply (hard) into base of huge chimney.
20m 14 Walk up around the corner then chimney to the top (chimney common with MALEBOCH).
Most people use a scrambling route to the right of the first 5 pitches, roping up for pitch 6 onwards. Continue rightwards past the start of the route until able to scramble up and then diagonally left. Scramble till scared, then rope up and follow your nose to the base of the obvious dihedral of pitch 7.
BIG CORNER DIRECT 22 * * :
Pitch 8 & 9 40m 22 Blast up the BIG CORNER. At the top, move left to rejoin the original route.
FA: Clive Curson.
Walk past the Moon Area, go through the boulder squeeze, past the start of
RAZORS EDGE until the face steps back. Up and left are two big open books. The smaller left hand one is BIG CORNER. The massive right hand one is MALEBOCH. Scramble up and diagonally left for a few ropelengths, as per BIG CORNER, to get to a squeeze-through flake. BIG corner heads up left from here, while MALEBOCH heads right.
60m 15 Diagonally left across the rightward-sloping ramp, into the corner. Follow the corner up right to some trees. Continue past the next steep section to belay in the forest below the main corner/gulley.
50m 18R Climb the corner/gulley passing some offwidth sections. Above the last offwidth move right around the overhang and belay just above this.
30m 14 Climb the corner to belay below the next obvious offwidth section.
45m 20R Climb the offwidth to the roof. Step right around the roof to the next bulge. Pull through the bulge, past two bolts to a small ledge. Continue straight up the offwidth above to a tree belay (no pro) or walk left to end of narrow ledge and ascend a face to the tree.
30m 14 Continue up the gulley. Veer left behind the massive block and chimney up past a peg to the top (as for BIG CORNER).
The bolts and pitons are dodgy and the route is spicy.
Use the nearby rap route (described elsewhere) to link this route up.
FA:R.F. Davies, P. Scott, H. Liebz, B. Penzhorn & 4 September 1960., 1960
Climbs a section of the wall to the right of MALEBOCH. Scramble as for MALEBOCH / BIG CORNER. Before the squeeze-through-flake marking the end of the other routes’ scramble, traverse right and up across grassy rock for about 20m to a ledge.
25m 21 Climb up and slightly right to a ledge. Climb the right-facing dihedral to a rail, move right, and continue up to a ledge. Climb to the top of the block on the right.
40m 21 Climb up and right to the arête. Move back diagonally left and climb a short groove. Traverse right then trend left and up to a stance between two small trees.
35m 17 Climb the face, steep cracks and negotiate the bulge. Continue up and right to a large ledge at the top of the right arête.
The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.
21m (E2) Start on face to left of crack and proceed straight up over horizontal ledges.
12m (E1) A short chimney leads to a grass ledge below a chockstone.
15m (E2) Ascend chimney to a higher grass ledge. Proceed to the right of the main chimney over a face broken with horizontal cracks.
21m (E3) Dassie traverses to the left for about 3m, then proceed upwards to a stance immediately below a series of overhangs. A traverse to the right from this point to rejoin the main crack bypasses the overhangs and a further short ascent leads to a stance on top of some prominent blocks.
12m (F2) There is a delicate take-off to the left of a large flake. Further ascent in the main crack leads to a ledge below the final overhangs marking the last barrier to the grass ledge.
30m (F3) Traverse to the left in an extremele exposed position then delicately ascend a face to a point immediately below the main grass ledge and about 18m horizontally to the left of the main crack. A pull-up over a small overhang completes this section.
21m (E3) The route follows the left esction of the chimney straight up for about 18m where a step across is taken to the right and the ascent continues to the right of a narrow crack where a stance is availabl below an overhang.
12m (F3) A tricky take-off into the crack on the left which is then followed to a ledge above which two further cracks, about 3m apart, split a massive block. The one on the left is probably the easier of the two but is a hard pull-up.
14m (E3) Pass through the "worm hole" leading to a block which is traverse to the right. thence up a crack. A traverse to the left, ascent of three short recesses, a further short traverse back to the right and a climb to the top of a huge chockstone brings the climber to a point immediately above the last belay.
21m (E1) An easy traverse to the left extends to the outer ridge of the tower. Here the route proceeds up a crack about 5m in height lying back from the outer buttress and leads to a stance on a block from which the summit section is visible.
18m (E3) Traverse to the right to the final column of rock, where a pull-up leads to a ledge passing round to the right in a very exposed position from which the grass ledge is visible vertically beneath. This traverse lands the climber on a grass ledge below a crack from which an adequate belay can be given.
30m (D) The final pitch is virtually a scramble to the summit taking a route tending to the right.
Approximately 1.5km north of Zimbabwe buttress there is a long diagonal cleft (gully). The climb starts about 350m to the right of this diagonal cleft beneath the dome.
17m (D) Left of red corner with pronounced overhang in crack, climb under and behind chockstone.
15m (E2) Straddle up corner.
20m (E2) Follow crack to left of cone-shaped grey face.
21m (D) Traverse 33m to left on grass. Commence vertically under overhang, go right 2m and then up over corner.
18m (D) Up chimney under chockstone.
Easy scramble up long gully. Finish at back of arete.
Descent: Proceed into main gully and down as far as waterfall over rockbands. Continue around left (facing mountain).
FA:T. Sholes, J. Knox, R. Forsyth & G. Burrow, 1949
1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.
20m (F2) 15m up open book and traverse 3m left and up to tree belay.
25m (F1) Start face to left of crack. Climb to good ledge under yellow overhangs (two mantleshelfs). Dassie crawl right along ledge for 4m. Ascend crack 3m. Ledge and piton belay.
40m (F2). Climb chimney and step out left to ledge. Ascend corner directly above and follow crack to just under grass ledge, make delicate right-hand traverse and up to tree belay.
35m (F1) Climb up centre of grey face to piton and flake belay under overhangs.
20m (F3 A2) Walk 8m to right and ascend short chimney to upper overhangs. Move through overhangs (A2) (one piton left in place). Follow crack to tree belay.
30m (E3) Walk right along ledge past yellow boulder to crack and ascend crack to ledge and belay.
25m (E3) Climb crack and chimney to neck.
25m (E3) Ascend centre of face 29m and scramble to top.
To the left of Afternoon Ascension one can see a big black face high up. 80m to the left of that a red pillar is clearly visible. The climb start in the corner directly below the right hand side of the pillar.
40m (F1) Climb vegetated recess to ledge. Climb face with two prominent knobs behind tree. Follow recess above to big ledge.
The route generally follows the shallow recess about 30m to the left of the prominent chimney of Afternoon Ascension. At the base is a steep corner that peters out before reaching the shallow recess above. About 15m to the right is another corner extending from the left of a small overhang about 3m up to a larger overhang about 12m up. Start below this corner.
26m (F3 A1) Mantleshelf up to face to a small ledge below the corner, then climb the corner to the upper overhang via mixed aid and free climbing. Move to the left under the overhang to a ledge and then traverse to the left around a bulge to a ledge at the base of a recess.
40m (G1) Climb 6m diagonally to the left up a face, then traverse to the right into a corner behind a huge flake. Climb 7m to a ledge at the top of the flake, then traverse to the left to the arete. Move up a thin face to a small sloping ledge, then move to the left around the arete and into a corner. Climb the corner for about 18m to a small ledge at the top of a pinnacle.
30m (F3) Continue 12m up to corner to a small ledge on the left-hand face. Continue up the face to another ledge, then traverse to the left until the large ledge can be easily gained.
25m (F2) Climb the continuation of the recess to a large ledge.
32m (G1 A1) From the left-hand end of the large ledge, descend to a small ledge and traverse to the left to the base of a bulging crack. Climb the crack, using two nuts for aid in the lower portion, to easier rock above the overhang. Continue to top.
The route goes up the prominent crack-line 50m to the right of Afternoon Ascension on the Eastern Buttress above the camp site.
Scramble up to a ledge and tree belay at the foot of the crack.
36m (G1) Climb the crack (difficult to start) and then continue diagonally up to the left for 13m on broken rock before moving diagonally back to the right into the crack about 5m below a small tree. Climb the crack with difficulty past two small trees, to a stance on a small ledge with a good tree belay.
13m (F2) Traverse to the right around the corner for 7m to a large ledge, and then climb up steeply to another large ledge with a small tree belay.
11m (F2) Climb diagonally back up to the left to a stance in the main crack (Nut belay).
36m (G1) Climb steeply up the crack for 8m before traversing to the right with difficulty, using a small finger-rail, to a foothold around the corner. Mantleshelf with difficulty onto a small ledge and continue up via two further hard moves to a ledge with a bong belay 3m below a prominent overhang in the main crack.
30m (F3) Climb up to the overhang and continue strenuously past it on the left. Continue up the steep crack to a small ledge with nut belays about 5m below a large section of red rock.
48m (F2) Descend 1m from the stance and traverse delicately to the left for 7m into a corner. Traverse further to the left along a grassy ledge and then climb up, bearing slightly left to a grassy stance with a tree belay.
30m (G3) Climb the steep crack (mostly G2 and G3). When the holds run out, make a hard traverse (G3) left and up on small knobs. Move back into the crack and up onto a stance about 5m below the roof.
30m (G2) Traverse right on small holds to a recess which yields some protection. Continue railing to the end of the roof. Move up on the right to an easy traverse line back left. Where this ends (directly above previous stance) drop down and rail into the flared open book on the left. Climb this with difficulty and then onto the face above and through rightwards to a large flake. Climb this to a stance on the left.
30m (F3) Climb the recess on the left to a grassy ledge where a scramble to the right leads to easy ground and convenient abseil trees.
The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.
30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.
24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.
40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.
20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.
40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.
From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.
25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.
10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.
25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.
45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.
30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.
45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.
45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.
45m (E1) Continue up the face.
Further scrambling leads to the top.
The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.
20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.
15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.
40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.
30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.
30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.
Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.
20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.
15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge.
Continue up main route from this point.
Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.
40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.
20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.
40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.
45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.
38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.
45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.
Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.
30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.
15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.
40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.
40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.
43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.
30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.
Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.
The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain.
Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.
18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.
22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance
30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.
40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.
Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.
15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.
24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.
18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.
30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.
15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).
33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.
16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.
18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.
4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).
20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.
20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.
FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)
Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.
Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.
To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.