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Showing 1 - 100 out of 679 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Limpopo Wellington's Dome Sarcophagus
15 Land of the Long Mamba

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2002

Sport 8
15 A Scarab Beetle Ate My Brain

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2002

Sport 8
Limpopo Blouberg Near The Cave BAPM Area
1 10 30m
2 13 30m
3 12 30m
4 15 30m

This route climbs the easy rock to the left of BAPM.

  1. 30m 10 Diagonally left then up to blocks on ledge.

  2. 30m 13 Left along ledge then up grey face to tree on ledge.

  3. 30m 12 Traverse right along ledge, then diagonally right to tree on next ledge.

  4. 30m 15 Move 7m right along ledge then up to beneath overhang. Traverse some distance left, then up (crux) to the top.

FA: Pete van Miarop, Dave Cretchley & Maevo Makfer, 1965

Trad 120m, 4
Limpopo Blouberg North Wall Left Face Area
15 Gully Corner

This route follows the ridge to the right (looking up) of GREAT GULLY. Two difficult sections are encountered:

  1. At 66m up: Climb steep corner for 13m and traverse right for 5m to large stance.

  2. 3/4 way up: 33m of good climbing in a cleft (F3) culminating in a strenuous one arm, one leg crack.

Rest of climb: 7-9.


  1. The route as written up is quite difficult to follow, and most people end up climbing something harder than 13. Experienced parties have encountered climbing as hard as 19.

FA: D.R. Bell & L.C. Thompson, 1951

Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South I
F3 Zimbabwe Tower
1 E2 21m
2 E1 12m
3 E2 15m
4 E3 21m
5 F2 12m
6 F3 30m
7 E3 21m
8 F3 12m
9 E3 14m
10 E1 21m
11 E3 18m
12 D 30m

The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.

  1. 21m (E2) Start on face to left of crack and proceed straight up over horizontal ledges.

  2. 12m (E1) A short chimney leads to a grass ledge below a chockstone.

  3. 15m (E2) Ascend chimney to a higher grass ledge. Proceed to the right of the main chimney over a face broken with horizontal cracks.

  4. 21m (E3) Dassie traverses to the left for about 3m, then proceed upwards to a stance immediately below a series of overhangs. A traverse to the right from this point to rejoin the main crack bypasses the overhangs and a further short ascent leads to a stance on top of some prominent blocks.

  5. 12m (F2) There is a delicate take-off to the left of a large flake. Further ascent in the main crack leads to a ledge below the final overhangs marking the last barrier to the grass ledge.

  6. 30m (F3) Traverse to the left in an extremele exposed position then delicately ascend a face to a point immediately below the main grass ledge and about 18m horizontally to the left of the main crack. A pull-up over a small overhang completes this section.

  7. 21m (E3) The route follows the left esction of the chimney straight up for about 18m where a step across is taken to the right and the ascent continues to the right of a narrow crack where a stance is availabl below an overhang.

  8. 12m (F3) A tricky take-off into the crack on the left which is then followed to a ledge above which two further cracks, about 3m apart, split a massive block. The one on the left is probably the easier of the two but is a hard pull-up.

  9. 14m (E3) Pass through the "worm hole" leading to a block which is traverse to the right. thence up a crack. A traverse to the left, ascent of three short recesses, a further short traverse back to the right and a climb to the top of a huge chockstone brings the climber to a point immediately above the last belay.

  10. 21m (E1) An easy traverse to the left extends to the outer ridge of the tower. Here the route proceeds up a crack about 5m in height lying back from the outer buttress and leads to a stance on a block from which the summit section is visible.

  11. 18m (E3) Traverse to the right to the final column of rock, where a pull-up leads to a ledge passing round to the right in a very exposed position from which the grass ledge is visible vertically beneath. This traverse lands the climber on a grass ledge below a crack from which an adequate belay can be given.

  12. 30m (D) The final pitch is virtually a scramble to the summit taking a route tending to the right.

FA: R. Barry & H. Barker, 1937

Trad 230m, 12
F3 A2 Consolation
1 F2 20m
2 F1 25m
3 F2 40m
4 F1 35m
5 F3 A2 20m
6 E3 30m
7 E3 25m
8 E3 25m

1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.

  1. 20m (F2) 15m up open book and traverse 3m left and up to tree belay.

  2. 25m (F1) Start face to left of crack. Climb to good ledge under yellow overhangs (two mantleshelfs). Dassie crawl right along ledge for 4m. Ascend crack 3m. Ledge and piton belay.

  3. 40m (F2). Climb chimney and step out left to ledge. Ascend corner directly above and follow crack to just under grass ledge, make delicate right-hand traverse and up to tree belay.

  4. 35m (F1) Climb up centre of grey face to piton and flake belay under overhangs.

  5. 20m (F3 A2) Walk 8m to right and ascend short chimney to upper overhangs. Move through overhangs (A2) (one piton left in place). Follow crack to tree belay.

  6. 30m (E3) Walk right along ledge past yellow boulder to crack and ascend crack to ledge and belay.

  7. 25m (E3) Climb crack and chimney to neck.

  8. 25m (E3) Ascend centre of face 29m and scramble to top.

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974

Trad 220m, 8
F3 Combi
1 F2 20m
2 F2 40m
3 E3 45m
4 F3 40m
5 E3 90m
  1. 20m (F2) Scramble up bushy ramp. Start in left corner. 2m up step to the right. Climb to ledge. Continue up open book until it is possible to move out to the left.

  2. 40m (F2) Climb face above to roof. Traverse right and up to ledge.

  3. 40m Walk left below huge roof.

  4. 45m (E3) Climb diagonally right across face.

  5. Scramble 50m up and right into original recess line.

  6. 40m (F3) Climb recess. Place chock high up, climb down 2m and traverse right. Ascend face to ledge. Chimney to top.

  7. 50m Walk left.

  8. 90m (E3) Climb diagonally right to top.

FA: E. Müller, H, Seuring & H. Seuring, 1981

Trad 240m, 5
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South II
F3 A2 Naked Orange
1 F2 30m
2 F3 A2 24m
3 F1 40m
4 F2 20m
5 E2 40m

The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.

  1. 30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.

  2. 24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.

  3. 40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.

  4. 20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.

  5. 40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.

FA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & Clive Ward, 1973

Trad 150m, 5
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South III
F3 A1 Vegetarian
1 E2 20m
2 F3 A1 15m
3 F3 40m
4 E3 30m
5 F1 30m

The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.

  1. 20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.

  2. 15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.

  3. 40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.

  4. 30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.

  5. 30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.

Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.

  1. 20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.

  2. 15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge. Continue up main route from this point.

FA: M. Briggs & Eckhart Haber, 1974

FFA: Eckhart Haber & H. Zangerl, 1980

Trad 140m, 5
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North A
F3 A3 Conception
1 D 20m
2 F2 20m
3 F3 A2 15m
4 F2 30m
5 F3 A1 12m
6 F3 A3 20m
7 F1 40m
8 F1 40m

The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).

  1. 20m (D) Scramble up a recess to a ledge above.

  2. 20m (F2) To the right-hand side of a little white streaked amphitheater are a few boulders with a tree growing out horizontally. From the top of the boulders climb a recess to a small stance below a tree.

  3. 15m (F3 A2) Climb up and through the tree then continue up alternatively using aid. Enter a cubby-hole and move past a tree to a stance.

  4. 30m (F2) Chimney up to a loose flake then traverse right 3m onto an exposed face. Climb a crack in the face and continue diagonally right to the bottom of the chimney with the hanging bush.

  5. 12m (F3 A1) Ascend the chimney then using aid in the final 3m make a hanging belay below a little overhang in the roof.

  6. 20m (F3 A3) Semi hand-traverse left 3m then straddle up to a footrail. Move back to below the roof and up to where a good wedge can be placed in a vertical crack. Aid out on the roof and continue with difficulty up to a stance at the start of a recessed chimney.

  7. 40m (F1) Continue up the chimney to a stance on top of a chockstone.

  8. 40m (F1) Climb past a chockstone at the back then out of the cave. Ascend a few boulders and climb past or over a bush into the continuation of the chimney. Climb up the left side then traverse out on a ledge beneath a narrow crack. Climb out at the end and continue to the top.

FA: E. Müller, E. Nienaber & Eckhart Haber, 1978

Trad 200m, 8
F3 A1 Cupid
1 F2 20m
2 F3 A1 25m
3 F2 A1 30m
4 F3 15m
5 F2 25m
6 F2 20m
7 F3 A1 30m
8 F2 20m

Start 5m to the left of green barked tree at foot of main recess.

  1. 20m (F2) Climb recess with awkward pull-up take-off. Climb through exit under block to tree belay.

  2. 25m (F3 A1) Climb short face 4m to right of recess. Traverse into recess and climb same, using one sling aid at small overhang. Continue to cave and tree belay.

  3. 30m (F2 A1) Mantleshelf to big ledge above cave. Continue to ledge with loose flakes. Using two aid moves, climb overhanging recess. Continue up recess to chockstones in deep recess.

  4. 15m (F3) Climb bottomless recess to ledge and chock belay.

  5. 25m (F2) Chimney past overhanging block and continue to cave-like stance.

  6. 20m (F2) Chomney recess above. Continue left via tree to stance.

  7. 30m (F3 A1) Ascend recess using two étrier moves. Continue via very narrow and awkward chimney-type recess to tree belay on left of recess, after crawling under a huge block.

  8. 20m (F2) Ascend a few steps and mantleshelf onto a block. Traverse right to start of exit recess. Climb to top.

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1979

Trad 190m, 8
F3 A2 Within the Womb
1 F1 15m
2 F2 A1 15m
3 F2 20m
4 F2 A2 15m
5 F3 A1 23m
6 F2 18m
7 F2 25m
8 F1 25m

The climb goes up a recessed crock and chimney system on a buttress 50m to the right of Born Free. Scramble up to ledge below big overhang (20m above).

  1. 15m (F1) Climb a crack past a tree to big detached block and ledge.

  2. 15m (F2 A1) Ascend the crack 5m, then aid up to a hanging tree, continue up left to a stance, long ledge.

  3. 20m (F2) Climb the recessed crack on the right, move slightly left on a ledge then up a chimney to a cubby-hole.

  4. 15m (F2 A2) Chimney up at first then traverse right under a roof. Aid up over difficulties and continue 5m to stance.

  5. 23m (F3 A1) Aid up 3m then move strenuously up to a chockstone. Climb past the chockstone and continue to a tree in the chimney.

  6. 18m (F2) Chimney up 3m then traverse right to beneath chockstones. Climb past the chockstones and continue up to top of another big chockstone.

  7. 25m (F2+) Chimney out to the right then awkwardly to gain a ledge. Climb up beneath a tree then continue up the chimney to a large chockstone. Traverse left into darkness, then climb up to upper cave.

  8. 25m (F1) Traverse right 3m and do two mantleshelves. Continue to the right to a recess which is climbed to the top.

FA: Eckhart Haber & Clive Ward, 1978

Trad 160m, 8
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North B
F3 A2 Black Sunday
1 F2 45m
2 F2 A1 15m
3 F3 15m
4 F2 A2 23m
5 F1 25m
6 F2 A1 30m

The route follows the big open book on the right-hand side of the rock band leading up to the prominent overhang.

  1. 25m (D/E) Scramble to foot of main face.

  2. 45m (F2) Climb first crack to right of centre wall to top of loose pillar.

  3. 15m (F2 A1) Clim up 2m in corner to small tree. Traverse right, move up one move (A1) and left again (A1). Continue diagonally for 2 moves (A1). Swing left into wide jamming crack and ascend same to stance.

  4. 15m (F3) Climb open book to ledge in corner.

  5. 23m (F2 A2) Continue up open book to overhanging crack. Mixed A2 and free climbing leads to piton and chock belay below overhangs.

  6. 25m (F1+) Climb up to small ledge and traverse about 4m right. Mantleshelf to fairly wide ledge below hanging rock on face. At same level traverse right to below loose rock pillar on right edge of overhangs above. Climb past rock pillar to narrow ledge and stance.

  7. 30m (F2 A1) Climb up diagonally left to ledge. Use one aid move to ascend into right recess. Climb recess and use another aid move to gain ledge above. Traverse left around corner to tree and continue to top.

Note: Poor rock is encountered on this route.

FA: Jerry Linke, Romey Druschke & Eckhart Druschke, 1977

Trad 150m, 6
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North C
F3 Mirage
1 F3 25m
2 E3 30m
3 F1 25m
4 E3 20m
5 F3 35m
6 F2 15m
7 F1 35m

The climb is situated on the buttress to the right of Black Sunday (3rd rock band). It starts about 100m to the right of the gully. Take off from a grey block underneath an overhanging recess (beaconed). The upper line has a big grey face on its right.

  1. 25m (F3) Straddle crack into narrow awkard cubby-hole. Ascend cubby-hole (crux) to foot of chimney and belay.

  2. 30m (E3) Ascend chimney to ledge. Walk diagonally left to foot of pillar.

  3. 25m (F1) Ascend right-hand side of pillar to large cubby-hole just 3m below top of pillar.

  4. 20m (E3) Ascend sloping face to tree below crack.

  5. 35m (F3) Climb crack to overhang. Chimney up out of roof and climb to stance 4m above.

  6. 15m (F2) Climb crack to tree belay.

  7. Traverse 30m left to below series of black rounded ledges.

  8. 35m (F1) Ascend ledges (yellowwood tree 5m up) and scramble to top.

R. Druschke, E. Druschke (October 1977)

Variation: Begin about 40m to the left of the original start.

  1. 40m (F3 A0) Climb chimney, crux after 10m (sling aid). Continue through hole at top. Belay next to overhanging rock.

  2. 45m (E3) Follow line to top of pillar and continue along ramp to tree belay.

From here variation joins main route.

E. Müller, H. Seuring (September 1980)

FA: Romey Druschke & Eckhart Druschke, 1977

Trad 190m, 7
F3 Creaking Bones
1 F1 12m
2 F2 15m
3 F2 15m
4 F2 35m
5 F3 25m
6 E3 20m
7 F1 20m

The climb is situated on the tower to the left of Tarantula basically following a prominent crack to the right of Skydiver, which takes the centre line.

  1. 12m (F1) Start at beacon. Climb wall of lowest rock band.

  2. 15m (F2+) Climb the left edge of the recess with some creepers hanging down for approximately 4m. Move right into open book and climb up past some hanging creepers onto ledge, continue up crack to small ledge with tree and natural eye belay.

  3. 15m (F2+) Continue up open book, surmount overhang and up to ledge.

  4. 35m (F2) Climb the lay-back type crack to the right of the main crack to tree and continue up main crack to stance.

  5. 25m (F3) Ascend crack to just below main overhang. Move directly out and then onto left wall. Stance around corner.

  6. 20m (E3) Continue up face and cracks to shoulder of pinnacle.

  7. 20m (F1) Climb short face next to right corner (pull-up) and up to top.

FA: Jerry Linke, H. Seuring & A. Sussegger., 1977

Trad 140m, 7
F3 Disillution
1 C - D 40m
2 C - D 40m
3 E3 20m
4 F2 30m
5 F3 20m
6 F2 30m
7 D 15m
8 F1 25m
9 F2 20m
10 F2 30m

The climb starts at the large V on the left half of the Buttress and continues up the center and widest of three cracks running up all the way to the top. These cracks are located in the corner, left of Tarantula.

  1. 80m (C/D) Climb and scramble two short rock pitches and grass slopes to base of cracks.

  2. 20m (E3) Start in recess formed by centre crack. After 8m, move out left and continue up past tree to stance. (Dassie crawl along ledge and take off from tree to overcome hanging rock.)

  3. 30m (F2) Continue up in left-hand side of crack. Rock in rear of crack very loose and brittle at this stage. Move out on face to left where necessary.

  4. 20m (F3) Move up very strenuously until a narrow footrail can be reached on left-hand wall of chimney. Move out and back again over block to stance at tree.

  5. 30m (F2) After take-off from tree, move left into narrow chimney. A flake on the left wall provides handhold high up. Straddle straight up to large overhang and broad ledge on left.

  6. 15m (D) Traverse around left to adjacent narrow crack.

  7. 25m (F1) After difficult start in narrow chimney, straddle up to overhang, move out right and back again to stance on wide ledge with big trees.

  8. 20m (F2) Continue up left-hand crack past overhanging corner.

  9. 30m (F2) Chimney up and clear crack at top by moving left. Scramble to right and to top of krantz.

FA: H. van Rensburg & S. van Rensburg, 1977

Trad 270m, 10
F3 A2 Number 11
1 F2 25m
2 F2 A2 25m
3 F2 30m
4 F3 35m
5 E1 20m

Goes up the very prominent chimney/crack right of Disillusion and left of Tarantula. Scramble 50m up the grassy recess just left of Tarantula and traverse right to the base of the crack.

  1. 25m (F2) Climb up, negotiating an overhang halfway up on the right via a precarious looking block, to a large stance below a narrow chimney.

  2. 25m (F2 A2) Climb the chimney past the overhang above using two large nuts for aid. Continue more easily to a comfortable stance in the chimney.

  3. 30m (F2) Climb up first on the left and then on the right to the large overhanging slab blocking the recess. Traverse right immediately underneath it to an exposed stance on the arête.

  4. 35m (F3) Climb up steeply just left of the arête, moving precariously into a vegetated recess above. Continue easily up this to stance.

  5. 20m (E1) Starting in crack to the left, climb to the top.

FA: G. Pallister & L. P. Fatti, 1980

Trad 140m, 5
F3 Happy Landing on Amphibian Tower
1 F2 8m
2 F3 40m
3 F1 25m
4 F2 40m

The climb is situated on a prominent rock pinnacle in front of the rock-fold where the route Tarantula is found. The route follows a crack in the front of the pinnacle for about two-thirds of the way and then continues up the right side of the pinnacle.

  1. 8m (F2) Mae a delicate mantleshelf move up a ledge in the front of the pinnacle below the prominent steep crack. Move 1.5m to the right and then ascend a small crack to ledge at start of the main crack.

  2. 40m (F3) Ascend crack for 4m past first crux, continue past another difficult section until a bulging crack is reached. To avoid a loose block, traverse onto the right wall for 2-3m, then move up and traverse back on a sloping slab into the crack. Climb the crack -through an overhang - past a small tree and make a stance on a ledge by a deep crack.

  3. 25m (F1) Move up the crack to its top, then up wall. Move up an open book recess and continue up wall to a traverse leading to the right, (approx 5m below an overhang - a piton was left above in the corner to the left.) Traverse right to a large ledge on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Make a stance.

  4. 40m (F2) Move around to the right into the first possible crack line. Follow this up and then ascend to the top of the pinnacle. Do not follow the crack between the pinnacle and the main wall.

Decent: Abseil down the right side of the pinnacle (facing the pinnacle from below).

Note: The route was called Happy Landing in honor of a frog who managed to descend the pinnacle in very good style, especially in this age where artificial methods are being questioned, by making one big leap. After being slightly stunned on the ledge at the beginning of the second pitch, he made a delicate traverse to the left and then left up to make the final jump. We took the liberty of calling the pinnacle Amphibian Tower.

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974

Trad 110m, 4
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North D
F3 Octopus
1 F2 23m
2 E2 20m
3 F3 22m
4 E3 25m
5 F2 25m
6 E3 20m
7 F1 25m
8 F 30m
  1. 23m (F2) From the tree, climb directly up the crack to overhang and then traverse 2m left to tree belay.

  2. 20m (E2) Climb up to large cubby-hole, then move to the right from under overhang onto a shelf below groove.

  3. 22m (F3) Climb crack for 20m and then traverse left to stance.

  4. 25m (E3) Climb chimney above through tree to smooth face with cubby-hole on its left.

  5. 25m (F2+) Climb right-hand crack for 4m and then traverse left from under overhang. Continue to deep cubby-hole.

  6. 20m (E3) Squeeze through narrow wormhole and climb up past large chockstone to stance.

  7. 25m (F1) Climb past chockstone and big block to tree.

  8. 30m (F1) Straddle up chimney to big block. Dassie-traverse out left. Mantelshelf 3m from corner to ledge above. Traverse delicately to the right back into gully.

  9. (40m) E3 Walk up gully and ascend left-hand crack. Traverse out right and climb chimney to top.

FA: B. Honey & A.G. Chinery, 1964

Trad 190m, 8
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North E
F3 Grit
1 F3 20m
2 F2
3 F3
4 F2

The climb is situated on the left corner of the next rock-fold to the right of Octopus. Start below arch formed by pillar (left).

  1. Climb face on the main wall, traverse left and mantelshelf up ledge. Climb prominent crack for approximately 20m to overhang, break out right to ledge.

  2. Climb up a few metres then diagonally up left on main face, round corner into chimney and continue up to to block (F2). (Top of pinnacle was climbed after Pitch 1.)

  3. Step down and traverse left under overhang into crack (2m). Climb crack to ledge (F3).

  4. Walk to crack behind stance and climb same, continue up awkward groove and cracks to a stance (F2). Walk around to the right to a chimney, climb this to big grass ledges. Zig-zag through upper grass and rock bands (F2).

FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977

Trad 20m, 4
F3 Sandstone Alley
1 F2 25m
2 F2 35m
3 F1 25m
4 F1 20m
5 F3 30m
6 F1 35m
7 F1 20m

The climb starts below a tree-covered ledge to the left of two large overhangs.

  1. 25m (F2) Climb the groove until there is a definite lay-back crack below the ledge. Climb this crack 18m and continue a further 7m onto the ledge to a tree belay.

  2. 35m (F2) Climb the obvious crack on the right starting with a rather narrow chimney. Continue upwards past a white block, then past an overhang. The stance is made on a very small but comfortable ledge.

  3. 25m (F1) Move to under the overhang, then traverse out left and climb up the edge at the end of the overhang. Move up and then traverse right into a good crack. Climb this and move onto big grass ledge.

  4. 20m (F1) Climb up the bulging block, then continue up the crack.

  5. 30m (F3) Continue up the crack until only about 2m of the difficulties remain. To avoid these traverse 2m right then move up to a ledge. Continue up past some overhangs to a stance at a tree.

  6. 35m (F1) Climb obvious crack route keeping left and make stance at a tree.

  7. 20m (F1) Climb the crack directly behind stance, then scramble to the top.

Descend the left-hand gully (Facing the rock), but this is not advisable in the dark.

FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974

Trad 190m, 7
F3 Bergkelders
1 F3 15m
2 F2 30m
3 F2 30m
4 F1 30m
5 F1 20m
6 F1 20m
7 F1 20m

The climb starts from the left-hand edge of a ledge a few metres up and 10m left of the prominent recess (Split).

  1. 15m (F3) Climb rotten looking face (surprisingly sound) then move up into corner. Ascend corner up to overhang, then traverse out left moving onto a ledge. Make a stance at small cubby-hole at start of crack.

  2. 30m (F2) Ascend crack above to small ledge at crack marked by some small chockstones.

  3. 30m (F2) Continue up crack until the crack becomes less defined. Swing right and move to the top of large flake. Move up a ledge to the left and continue left to a chimney formed by a large block and the main face. Stance on top of chimney and first grass band.

  4. Scramble to the base of a large crack around to the left.

  5. 90m (F1) Start on right wall, then climb crack, passing a deep hole near the top of the climb.

FA: H. Vogl & Jerry Linke, 1975

Trad 170m, 7
F3 Hyrax
1 F1 30m
2 E3 30m
3 F2 25m
4 F2 35m
5 F3 30m
6 F2 40m
7 E3 40m
  1. 30m (F1) Ascend grey face 6m to the right of the prominent crack (Split) moving out slightly left after 7m, then right, to a tree. Move up 10m to the tree belay at base of crack of rock pyramid.

  2. 30m (E3) Continue up crack and chimney to chock belay.

  3. 25m (F2) Move out diagonally right onto front face of the pyramid. Climb face to the top of pyramid belay large overhang above.

  4. 35m (F2) Move diagonally right then up to overhang. Traverse left until clear of overhang and continue diagonally left for 5m, and climb face to first grass band.

  5. 30m (F3) Climb some horizontal rock bands passing a statue-like rock on the left into a crack. Ascend crack, making a stenuous move through a narrow bottomless chimney. Stance just above on good ledge.

  6. 40m (F2) Move into right-hand crack f recess climbing partly on the right-hand wall. Climb through overhanging chimney until it culminates near the top of this second rock band.

  7. 40m (E3) Move up to final overhanging band. Traverse right for 12m then break through to second grass band

  8. Scramble diagonally right and then left through easy rock to the top.

FA: Jerry Linke & Romey Druschke, 1975

Trad 230m, 7
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North F
F3 Prelude in F
1 E3 30m
2 F2 35m
3 F1 20m
4 F2 20m
5 E1 27m
6 E3 20m
7 F3 25m
8 F3 10m
9 D 60m
  1. 30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree belay.

  2. 35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of loose rock.

  3. 20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move, to reach a large stance with a tree belay.

  4. 20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.

  5. 27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing to a square edged ledge stance.

  6. 20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.

  7. 25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right to a large stance with a tree belay.

  8. 10m (F3) Two variations are possible:

    • (F3) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
    • (F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing around to the right and then move up to the tree.
  9. 60m (D) Climb to top.

FA: K. Bennetts, T. Kerrich, M. Cramphorn & L. Klingmann, 1962

Trad 250m, 9
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North G
F3 A2 Gleep
1 F1 40m
2 F3 A2 25m
3 F3 A1 30m
4 F2 16m
5 E2 50m
6 F1 A1 23m
7 E1 20m

Start at a prominent right-angled corner in the large face to the right of the Prow.

  1. 40m (F1) Climb crack to stance 7m below where crack narrows.

  2. 25m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m using a peg hand hold. Climb up to a high hand rail (2 pegs). A bathook is used to place a good protection peg to the night. From the bathook hand-traverse and traverse right (10m). Climb (1 peg) to a stance (5m).

  3. 30m (F3 A1) Climb 10m then traverse back to chimney (a high peg was used for tension). Climb crack (23m).

  4. 16m (F2) Climb chimney and face (a few metres to right).

  5. 50m (E2) Up crack and loose blocks.

  6. 23m (F1 A1) Up cracks (use a nut) and left to stance.

  7. 20m (E1) Climb round corner to left and scramble to top.

FA: T. Huges & P. Dawson, 1973

Trad 200m, 7
Limpopo Kransberg Chevron Area
15 Perdeby
1 15 40m
2 A1 13m
3 11m

FA: J. Graaff, J. Clayton & D. Williamson, 1959

Trad 64m, 3
15 Hatchet
1 15 23m
2 13 28m
3 12 26m
4 13 32m
5 11 29m

The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.

  1. Scramble up to the ledge where Snowflake starts. Easy if you choose the right line but rope up if in doubt. Start by scrambling up diagonally left to below some roofs. Traverse right on a ledge and another difficult move gets you to easier ground.

  2. 23m (15) Start behind the tree on the left. There is a small cave just left of it. Climb up just right of the recess behind the tree to a small roof and a big rail. Traverse right for 5m and then diagonally left up to a grassy ledge.

  3. 28m (13) From the right hand side of the ledge there is a crack leading up, climb this for 6m past one hard move with a good small cam. Traverse right on a good ledge for 5m. Further up the face there is a right facing open book. Climb towards this (this part is easy but pretty run-out). Climb the open book to a good ledge behind a block.

  4. 26m (12) Traverse left into the left crack and climb it to a small stance on a block on the right-hand side of the crack at a point where the crack becomes vegetated and very overhanging.

  5. 32m (13) Traverse right (exposed) for 9m until just before the right crack and then up to a ledge.

  6. 29m (11) Climb up and out at the short chimney at the top. Scramble to top.

FA: P. Venter & P. Fatti, 1966

Trad 140m, 5
15 Lego
1 15 20m
2 15 35m
3 12 40m

FA: A. Porter, T. Viljoen, G. Rehmet & R. Oosthuisen

Trad 95m, 3
15 The Saint
1 15 33m
2 11 21m
3 12 23m
4 8 37m

FA: P. Andersen & D. Peter, 1973

Trad 110m, 4
15 Angel Recess
1 13 45m
2 12 10m
3 15 40m

About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.

  1. 45m (13) From the top of the buttress, follow a faint crack that starts just left of the buttress to a small overhang (6x1m). Pass the overhangs on the right and continue up to a ledge belew a short 2m wide roof with a small tree on the left. (There is an optional belay ledge about halfway up this pitch).

  2. 10m (12) From the right of the ledge continue up corner. To a small square ledge below a piton.

  3. 40m (15) Climb the corner until a point before it becomes overhanging. Traverse right on good ledges to the nose and then diagonally left to top.

Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2.

FA: G. Chinery, B. Honey & Romey Stapley, 1964

Trad 95m, 3
15 Vintage Adventure
1 12 45m
2 15 40m
3 15 30m
4 13 45m

FA: H. Seuring, H. Vogl & E. Muller, 1983

Trad 160m, 4
15 Lavender Crack

The route is 70m to the right of 'Chanel Crack' in a corner formed by a step in the face. The vegetation has discouraged subsequent parties.

FA: B. Barris, G. Burrow & D. Roberts., 1947

Trad 100m
Limpopo Kransberg Wages of Fear Area
15 Vavoom
1 13 28m
2 13 28m
3 13 21m
4 12 25m
5 12 32m
6 15 35m
8 8 32m

FA: Paul Fatti & P. van Nierop, 1965

Trad 200m, 8
Limpopo Makapansgat The Gulley

FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & M. Townsend, 1988

Trad 25m

FA: J. Holding & Clive Ward, 1981

Trad 20m
Limpopo Thabaphaswa Kanniedood
15 - 18 Skoenlapper

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Set by Thomas Kotlar

FA: Hermien Venter, 26 Mar 2016

Sport 17m, 6
Limpopo Thabaphaswa Dome Rock
15 Monkey See Monkey Do

Set by Hermien Venter

FA: Jaco Venter, 13 Oct 2018

Sport 6m, 2
Limpopo Lindani Upper Crag

FA: Francios du Toit & Armand Lombard, Sep 2020

Set by Louis Breytenbach, Sep 2020

Sport 8
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Commando Neck
1 10 18m
2 15 25m

Start in the centre of the grey slab mentioned in RUDOLPH.

  1. 18m 10 Climb the centre of the grey slab, moving diagonally right to a ledge belay in right-hand corner.

  2. 25m 15 Continue up the crack in the corner to top and easy rock.

FA: Clive Ward & Eckhart Druschke, 1973

Trad 43m, 2
1 15 25m
2 10 20m

Situated 35m to the right of the meeting place (at descent gully).

  1. 25m 15 Start at the base of the first buttress. The first 3m is the crux. Move up onto the face and semi-mantleshelf moving to the right. Continue diagonally left and up the arete. Climb moving right and then up to a good ledge and tree. (An alternative start can be made by climbing a recess to left and slightly higher - 10)

  2. 20m 10 Traverse left for 4m and up to a recess with a tree projecting out. Continue up the recess to the top.

FA: H. Goynes & Clive Ward, 1972

Trad 45m, 2
1 15 25m
2 11 25m

Start about 10m left of CARMEN and about 3m to the right of a prominent recess.

  1. 25m 15 Climb face and move through overhanging bulge to face above. Climb diagonally right, surmount the next overhang and then continue to stance on ledge below a prominent slab face.

  2. 25m 11 Climb the slab face and then continue to the top along the pleasant arete that extends from the top of the face.

FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1973

Trad 50m, 2
1 13 22m
2 15 15m
3 6 15m

Start below the first square overhang in the prominent slanting corner (Refer to description for GOON SHOW.)

  1. 22m 13 Ascend to the overhang, step right and follow the slanting corner crack up rightwards to a peg belay below a small triangular overhang.

  2. 15m 15 Layback up left wards 1½ m then step across onto slab. Alternatively, traverse at level of the stance and move up some way across the slab (5m 15) Move left to the edge of the slab. Then step down onto a flake or block on the corner. Traverse across recess. Ascend the left wall, working up to the left to a block stance and peg belay. (3m 15)

  3. 15m 6 Up grassy face.

FA: J. Anderson, Paul Fatti & H. Graafland, 1966

Trad 52m, 3
1 15 40m
2 4 40m
3 15 25m

Situated 30m left of gully between Commando Nek Buttress and Commando Nek West. Start in large corner with large crack below tree about 10m up with much evidence of dassie occupation.

  1. 40m 15 Climb up crack past tree (slightly overhanging) to easier sloping rock. Belay at tree on ledge.

  2. 40m 4 Traverse right along ledge until a very small cave is reached situated on left side of gully.

  3. 25m 15 From small cave climb straight up to ledge. Continue up, traverse left to a small tree then diagonally right along edge to top.

FA: P. Knoethe & E. Muller, 1978

Trad 110m, 3
1 13 18m
2 15 28m

Start at base of a crack in a recess 3m left of WILD ROVER.

  1. 18m 13 Climb the crack to an overhang, step right to a tree and stance. (15 if you are short)

  2. 28m 15 Climb straight up the undercut wall behind the stance and continue up easy rock. Scramble to top.

FA: Clive Ward & John Gregory, 1976

Trad 46m, 2
1 15 35m
2 8 25m

Situated 18m left of STORMY WEATHER. Start left of a rock rib in a recess.

  1. 35m 15 Climb the recess just left of a rock rib and right of a tree a little way up on the rock. Move up to the top of the recess and step over right. Move right for 2m. Continue up a wall to a ledge. Climb up the rock above (small overhang) to a short wall. Move slightly left and up and move right to a ledge. To the right there is sloping rock which ends in a wall and overhangs. To the left is a thin crack line running up a wall. Climb this to sloping rock. Move slightly left and then step right. Continue up to a rib of rock and a tree at the top. Belay.

  2. 25m 8 Continue to the left up easy rock.

Note: The 1st pitch is on excellent rock.

FA: H. Zangerl & Clive Ward, 1978

Trad 60m, 2
1 15 30m
2 11 40m

Situated 25m right of ACE OF DIAMONDS. Start on large ledge 10m up, or traverse from left-hand side underneath obvious recess.

  1. 30m 15 Climb up recess to point below overhang, then left through opening in overhang, passing a broken piton, to next overhang, taking care (loose block). Traverse left up to belay above aloes.

  2. 40m 11 Traverse left 2m and climb up to ledge above belay. Continue straight up until easier ground is reached.

FA: P. Knoethe, E. Muller & Clive Ward, 1978

Trad 70m, 2
1 10 15m
2 15 23m
3 8 30m

About 50m to the right of TOWER OF PISA there is a prominent ridge undercut by a large overhang. Start at the right-hand side of the ridge and to the right of KEG AND TANKARD.

  1. 15m 10 Move up and left under the overhang and continue up a groove to a stance level with the lip of the overhang.

  2. 23m 15 Above the stance is a subsidiary rib to the left of the main ridge and separated from it by a groove. Continue up the rib until a small tree is reached in the groove. Make a blind move right across the wall to reach the main ridge. From here climb up the crest of the ridge for 6m to reach a stance and good belay.

  3. 30m 8 Follow the ridge veering leftwards to the top.

Note: By only gaining the ridge at half height, the main challenge is avoided.

FA: A. Firth & David Hughes, 1975

Trad 68m, 3
1 13 30m
2 15 30m

Situated 10m right of TOWER OF PISA (cairn).

  1. 30m 13 Climb up a broken ramp for 4m. Move diagonally right across a wall above some overhangs for 8m and straight up through a break in some small overhangs. Move over right to a rib, continue up and traverse left along a slanting ledge. Belay just before a small corner.

  2. 30m 15 Climb the corner and crack above to a point below a big overhang. Step out right and continue up to a shallow recess to the top

FA: B. Schumacher, C. Baker & Clive Ward, 1979

Trad 60m, 2
1 11 15m
2 15 45m

From the descent gully follow the foot of the krantz until the first steep obvious ridge is reached. At this point the trees start to get more numerous.

  1. 15m 11 On the right of the ridge is an obvious recess. Climb up the recess until it is possible to move out left to a detached block on the ridge. Move back a few metres to the right behind a large tree and climb straight up to a good ledge and belay.

  2. 45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few metres until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.

FA: David Hughes, G. Young & P. Goodridge, 1975

Trad 60m, 2
15 TOWER OF PISA : Direct
1 15 15m
2 15 45m
  1. 18m 15 Direct Start: Start about 3m to the left of the ridge and move up and slightly right to gain a shallow groove. Climb strenuously up the groove passing a detached block on the ridge. Climb directly over the overhang above just to the left of the ridge to reach a good ledge and belay.

  2. 45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few metres until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.

FA: A. Firth & David Hughes, 1975

Trad 60m, 2
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort Closed Vulture Colony
1 6 18m
2 10 22m
3 8 12m
4 11 22m
5 15 25m

The route follows the general line of a small buttress immediately to the left of PARAMOUNT FACE.

  1. 18m 6 Scramble up an easy grey face to the foot of the buttress and traverse along a grassy ledge as far as a steep grey face to the right of the buttress.

  2. 22m 10 Commencing about 5m to the right of the recess between the buttress and the grey face, climb straight up the grey face to a long broad ledge. A tree belay is available by climbing another 5m but the ledge itself is adequate as a stance.

  3. 12m 8 Traverse horizontally left to a small stance on the buttress.

  4. 22m 11 Ascend the buttress on small holds on the face and climb a crack above the belay point. At the top of the crack traverse 3m left to a small stance below an overhang.

  5. 25m 15 Traverse back into the top of the crack and continue traversing to right as high as possible onto, and around, the right hand corner of the buttress, reaching a small cubbyhole on the corner in an exposed position. To the right of the cubbyhole around a second small corner is a brown face with a crack running in it and a few small sloping footholds. Climb this face for 6m to a ledge with a block on it then traverse to left around the corner to the face of the buttress and ascend this face for 6m to a good stance.

Note: Small stances. Party should not exceed 4.

FA: E. Scholes, Miss L. Ripley & S. Ripley, 1950

Trad 99m, 5
1 9 9m
2 13 24m
3 15 24m
4 10 30m

Start as for CHICKEN FEED.

  1. 9m 9 Climb easily to a ledge, as for CHICKEN FEED.

  2. 24m 13 Traverse right for 6m over dark rock, then up about 9m and back left to a stance behind a large block.

  3. 24m 15 Move up a small corner behind the stance to a small overhang. Traverse left onto a small arete and climb past the overhang. Then diagonally right to a stance on vulture ledges.

  4. 30m 10 Climb more or less straight up to the large overhangs at the top of the face. Then traverse left until it is possible to scramble easily to the top.

FA: Art McGarr & G. Klein, 1969

Trad 87m, 4
1 10 9m
2 13 22m
3 15 9m
4 9 15m
5 7

Located 100 - 150m east of EUREKA GULLY. The climb usually starts from the broad grass band or ledge which is about 30m above the top of the grass slope and may be reached by a number of easy routes. The commencement from this grass ledge is marked by a beacon about 9m to the right of a small cave.

  1. 9m 10 Straight up on good holds for 9m to a small stance near a long rift running towards a very pronounced overhang with a green slab underneath.

  2. 22m 13 Delicate sideways traverse of a short slab to a wide crack, then straight up and slightly to left for 18m to a good stance 6m under an overhang.

  3. 9m 15 The stance is in a corner between the main face underneath the overhang and a small rib of rock projecting 1m to the left. Climb in this corner to directly under the overhang then stretch to left on to the rib which forms a 90o angle with the face. A small stance is then reached.

  4. 15m 9 On good rock, climb 3m slightly to left slanting to right to a wide grass stance.

  5. ?m ? Scramble to top.

FA: F. Villa & R. Davies, 1949

Trad 55m, 5
1 10 9m
2 9 18m
3 9 12m
4 15 18m

Starts at a tree on the grass ledge about 18m to left of CHICKEN FEED.

  1. 9m 10 Straight up in right angled recess directly above tree to a cave.

  2. 18m 9 Traverse right 18m from cave to small stance with good belay.

  3. 12m 9 Up slightly to right for 9m to a corner, then out left about 2m then back to right for belay. Poor stance with room for 2 only.

  4. 18m 15 Up slightly to right through small tree and over thin rotten section. Bear left over grass and loose rock leading further up to left to a small grass ledge.

Note: The climb is not recommended in view of loose and dirty section in fourth pitch.

FA: R. Charlton, P. Petousis, S. Penny, E. Rowland & E. Perlstein., 1946

Trad 57m, 4
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort Skeerpoort
1 11 40m
2 15 20m
3 10 45m

Start about 100m right of FOUR MAN GULLY and about 2m left of the fence, below a large overhang. At this point the face is split by two lines of overhangs. The route follows a crack on the left-hand side of the lower overhang and avoids the upper overhang on the right. A diagonal traverse back to the left gains arete which is followed to the summit.

  1. 40m 11 Follow a ramp slanting to the left for about 18m to gain an obvious slab. Continue in the same diagonal line across the slab to a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay at the bottom of a crack level with the first overhang.

  2. 20m 15 Climb the crack for 8m (Awkward to start), step right to reach the arete and traverse a few metres to a detached flake. Climb up a few metres on to the top of the flake (care needed here) and then traverse 6m to a good ledge and peg belay.

  3. 45m 10 Climb straight up from the belay for 5m and then move diagonally left to reach an obvious arete. Follow the arete to the top.

FA: A. Firth, P. Goodridge & David Hughes, 1973

Trad 110m, 3
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Kranskloof

To the right of STEPPENWOLF there is a prominent rib. The climb is up the right-hand side of this rib.

  1. 40m 15 Climb up right of a tree protruding from a steep face. Move up into a crack running up this face. Climb to a ledge and traverse left to the rib. Climb up the right hand side of the rib until the rock overhangs slightly. Move left around the rib and up to a ledge. Continue up easy-angled rock to the top.

Note: The climb may be broken into two pitches.

FA: L. Cobber & Clive Ward, 1980

Trad 40m
1 15 25m
2 13 35m

Note: Descent down RHEBOK GULLY.

FA: T.P. Wilmot, F. Greig & M. Greenslade, 1990

Trad 60m, 2
1 15 30m
2 10 30m
3 15 45m

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the kloof between "triangular overhang" and "vegetated grey face" (see map), directly below a prominent skyline ridge.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the small open book to the left of a prominent recess and continue up the crack at the apex of the recess to a stance on a good ledge.

  2. 30m 10 Ascend the grey face to a good ledge with a tree directly below the rib.

  3. 45m 15 Move left of the small tree and ascend the steep ramp until it is possible to move right onto the ridge. Climb the ridge to the top.

FA: A. Wilson, G. Graafland & J. de Groot, 1983

Trad 110m, 3
1 15 35m
2 13 20m

The climb goes up the steep face 5m downstream of BOUNCING BABY.

  1. 35m 15 Start on the left of a 6m high pinnacle. Climb the recess past the right-hand side of the big overhang. Follow the corner to a flaky overhang. Ascend the left-hand face to the overhang above. Traverse right to tree and belay.

  2. 20m 13 Traverse 3m left (back) into the recess and climb the recess past the left-hand side of the overhang. Climb the face above to the top.

FA: Eckhart Druschke, R. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

Trad 55m, 2
1 13 45m
2 15 10m

The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of GOLDEN GOOSE (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.

  1. 45m 13 Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chockstones at 35m.

  2. 10m 15 From a high position, traverse left under the roof. 3m of hand/elbow traverse complete the climb.

Note: A pleasing climb on clean rock.


  1. same

  2. 10m 13 From the belay, traverse off right, under the roof, using a large ledge, passing a small tree at the exit.

FA: L. Gardiner & Russ Dodding, 1983

Trad 55m, 2
1 13 15m
2 15 15m

This climb starts about 3m to the right, and upstream of, PURPLE RAIN where the cliff takes a right angle turn. The climb starts on the nose just downstream of a prominent tree.

  1. 15m 13 Climb up the arete over a series of ledges, until you reach a large block to the right. Pass a tree on the left and follow the easy recess up to a comfortable ledge.

  2. 15m 15 Climb up the crack system above the ledge moving slightly left at the top to a good ledge. Scramble off rightwards.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

Trad 30m, 2

This climb ascends the arete just upstream of LATE BREEZE.

  1. 30m 15 Starting just upstream of LATE BREEZE, climb the arete.


  1. A pleasant climb on good rock but protection sparse lower down.

FA: G. Winfield, D. Margetts & G. Margetts, 1986

Trad 30m
1 15 25m
2 13 20m

The route lies on the first big buttress upstream of the grey grassy slabs. The route starts in the obvious polished black corner (the second corner from the downstream side of the buttress).

  1. 25m 15 Climb the open book to a tree belay on the large ledge.

  2. 20m 13 Climb the crack system up the buttress slightly left of the stance either breaking left to reach the tree belay or continuing up the broken rock to reach a stance on the perched block on top.

FA: E. Druschke & R. Nienaber, 1979

Trad 45m, 2

Just upstream of MARK THE RIPPLES is a short buttress.

  1. 15m 19 Start on the downstream facing side of the buttress. Climb a crack system up to a large sloping ledge.

FA: D. Margetts, A. McCann, P. McCann & Bonnie

Trad 19m
15 MARK THE RIPPLES - Direct finish
1 11 25m
2 9 20m
3 15 25m

Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite RIPPLE MARK. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.

  1. 25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)

  2. 20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.

  3. 25m 15 Ascend the recess on the left face above via a small tree to the overhang. Surmount the overhang on its right. Follow the recess to top.

FA: R. Druschke, E. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

Trad 70m, 3
1 11 28m
2 15 30m

The route starts immediately left of MARK THE RIPPLES, passing through the square-cut overhang above.

  1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of MARK THE RIPPLES. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

  2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above. Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

FA: A. Fatti, C. Fatti & C. Ward, 1981

Trad 58m, 2

This climb takes the break which starts at the top of a short gully on the true right, just upstream of SOFTY. Scramble up the gully past slab on the left (STONERS DELIGHT) and buttress on right with crack in it (CAREBEAR SURPRISE) to its highest point. It starts higher than the surrounding climbs.

  1. 40m 15 Climb up to the first overhang. Continue up easy rock to open book. Continue up, moving left to top of crag.

FA: A. Maddison, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1985

Trad 40m
1 15 25m
2 9 15m

This route starts 5m upstream of KB1 on the right side of a squat pinnacle.

  1. 25m 15 Climb the right arete of the pinnacle Continue up a short open book avoiding a tree (the climb is 13 if the tree is used). Continue up a pleasant face to the top of the pinnacle.

  2. 15m 9 Climb up the pleasant face behind the pinnacle to the right of a grassy recess.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Margetts, A. Maddison, C. Ward, H. Bolton & R. Brand, 1985

Trad 40m, 2

Upstream from ROAMER there is a large recess capped by overhanging rock. Start on a buttress left of the recess, behind a tree 4m out from the recess (cairn).

  1. 45m 15 Climb straight up the wall over a little bulge to a large ledge. Continue on the right, right of the large root, to the top of the crag.

FA: N. Cleaver & C. Ward, 1982

Trad 45m

This climb starts just downstream of ROAMER (i.e. about 10 to 15m upstream of the lower meet spot). It climbs the open book just to the right of a gully recess.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the open book (recess) using the slab on left. Continue up to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up past the tree by moving left onto the slab. Climb up to a small grassy ledge with a corner above. Up the corner and continue up the open book to the top of the crag.

Note: Can be divided into two pitches.

FA: A. Mercer & D. Margetts

Trad 30m
1 15 25m
2 15 40m

Situated 15m from the broken-pipe drip on the true left of the kloof where two obvious breaks take off from opposite ends of an elevated block.

  1. 25m 15 Straddle the grey recess on the right-hand edge of the block for 4m. Move diagonally right over the bulge. Continue upwards via the slightly overhanging open book to the well-defined recess with the intricately rippled floor.

  2. 40m 15 Straddle the recess until it closes. Step out onto the face and pull up. Continue upwards keeping right at the top of the buttress.

FA: J. de Groot & G. Graafland, 1983

Trad 65m, 2
1 15 41m
2 15 10m

Opposite GOLDEN GOOSE is a high buttress. The route takes a thin crack line up the broken rock at the left extremity of this buttress and makes for the V-notch visible high up - cairn.

  1. 41m 15 Climb the crack (using the rounded holds which all seem to slope the wrong way) until the angle eases and one can take a stance in the recess below the roof of the V-notch. The crux is about half way up and for height challenged persons comprises a precarious lay back move.

  2. 10m 15 Move up to the roof and straddle through this (airy) to the easier ground above. Climb the headwall of the pinnacle above moving first left and then up and to the right to break through the roof (good grips) to reach the top of the pinnacle


  1. A surprisingly excellent climb on steep rock, airy but all there.

  2. Descend from the top, carefully, down the steep gully immediately upstream of the route.

FA: G. Devine & T.P. Wilmot, 1997

Trad 51m, 2
1 11 20m
2 15 20m
3 6 25m

The climb starts 30m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe, on the left side of the kloof. The climb inclines leftwards up the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz.

  1. 20m 11 Climb up 3m in a broken open book, move 2m right over the broken bulge. Continue up for 6m to an overhang then move right over the bulge onto the broad sloping ledge. Continue up diagonally left for 5m to the small stance with loose block. (Peg belay.)

  2. 20m 15 Traverse 6m diagonally left to a chimney and climb the chimney to the ledge.

  3. 25m 6 Continue up the ridge via the large ledge to the top.

Variation: 2b. 11 After 5m up the chimney, traverse 5m right then straight up the crack and round the small tree to the right. Move 5m left along the ledge to the same stance.)

FA: A. Venzo, D. Peters & S. Spottiswoode, 1972

Trad 65m, 3
1 15 35m
2 11 15m

Left of FIONA'S FOLLY, this route takes the prominent corner which goes right up the crag on the downstream side of the white buttress taken by FIRST CHOICE.

  1. 35m 15 Climb the recess to a ledge. Continue up the recess via a steep bulging face to the large ledge below that overhang.

  2. 15m 11 Climb out right under the overhang. Straight up to a small chimney and out left to the top.

FA: R. Druschke, E. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

Trad 50m, 2
1 14 13m
2 15 A2 15m
3 13 36m

The climb is situated on the second rock face on the right as one enters the kloof. The first rock face is approximately 40m high and the second, moving up the kloof on the right, is approximately 50m high. Start on slanting rock slabs at the base of the main wall.

  1. 13m 14 Climb the second main recess from the left (cairn). Climb up the crack and move diagonally right to a small tree growing out of a crack. Move over this and up, traversing diagonally left to slanting ledges. Belay on blocks (a good thread on jammed blocks).

  2. 15m 15,A2 Continue straight up crack above the stance to a small tree also in a crack. Move diagonally up right across an overhanging wall (three points of aid) to an obvious shallow recess . Continue up (peg) to a metre wide ledge, then move left and up to a giant ledge. Small tree belay.

  3. 36m 13 Continue up a short wall, with all the holds slanting towards you, to a ledge. Climb a crack system and flake on the left side of a buttress for about 25m to a tree. Move left to a wall which forms the highest rock point from the face below.

FA: Greg Moseley & C. Ward, 1979

Trad 64m, 3
1 15 30m
2 11 20m
3 15 30m

Start just right of RIGHT SLANT.

  1. 30m 15 Move up the corner following the roots to a large tree. Gain height with the aid of the tree (this tree is now missing - use Pitch 1 of RED HOT TOOTIE) moving right with a hand jam in the crack then up the crack to good hand holds. Carryon up broken rock to a largish tree at the foot of an overhanging recess.

  2. 20m 11 Move over the block via the corner then across a large flat rock to the next large block. Move over the block then belay at the tree. (Common stance with RIGHT SLANT.)

  3. 30m 15 Move up the recess for 5m then move left around the corner (thin). Move up to the top.

FA: G. Langmore, R. Brown & N. Owen-Smith, 1980

Trad 80m, 3

Starts 25m upstream of GUNSIGHT where an obvious looking weakness leads diagonally left.

  1. 40m 15,A1 Climb diagonally left along the weakness. Continue leftwards on rounded holds for 5m to a block. Move up the black "waterchute" recess until 2m from a large ledge above. Make final hold-less moves with 2 pegs.

FA: D. Peters, S. Spottiswoode & A. Venzo, 1972

Trad 40m
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Remhoogte
1 13 38m
2 15 13m
3 11 25m

The start is 10m east of MALE FIRENZE. The route follows a pronounced straight crack bearing slightly left.

  1. 38m 13 Start about 5m up crack and follow it. There are several belay points to split the pitch if required. Belay 4m above prominent tree in deep crack under overhang.

  2. 13m 15 Chimney or straddle through overhang to good stance 5m above roof of overhang.

  3. 25m 11 Follow the crack to the top.

FA: L.P. Fatti, J. Brittain & Clive Ward, 1977

Trad 76m, 3
1 15 12m
2 10 18m
3 15 23m

There is a small recess about 30m up Remhoogte Gully on the right-hand side going up. At the back of the recess about 6m up there is a receding crack.

  1. 12m 15 Ascend the crack for 12m to obvious stance.

  2. 18m 10 Continue up crack in chimney position until fairly large shelf is reached. There is an alternative route on the wall.

  3. 23m 15 Climb fairly easy rock for 8m to the base of a short overhanging chimney. Ascend chimney, (5m 15) and scramble to top.

FA: A.G. Chinery, C. Cowley & B. Honey, 1964

Trad 53m, 3
1 8 12m
2 15 25m
3 8 18m

This climb starts from the same recess as GULLY CRACK.

  1. 12m 8 At the entrance to the recess ascend short face to the base of a slanting ramp.

  2. 25m 15 Ascend ramp, negotiating slight overhang at top.

  3. 18m 8 Up a crack on the right hand side, past tree and a short face thereafter.

FA: A.G. Chinery, C. Cowley & B. Honey, 1964

Trad 55m, 3
1 15 35m
2 13 40m
3 10 20m

The climb follows the prominent peapod-shaped chimney in the left-hand side of the buttress between DASSIE ROUTE and PANORAMA and then continues up the ridge of the buttress to the left of PANORAMA.

  1. 35m 15 Climb the chimney to a stance on a pinnacle on the ridge. Common stance with PANORAMA.

  2. 40m 13 Climb near the left-hand edge of the ridge straight up to a stance on a ledge.

  3. 20m 10 Continue to the top, keeping left.

FA: L.P. Fatti & Art McGarr, 1975

Trad 95m, 3
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Trident Kloof True Left
15 A Kwikkie

On right hand side looking up Trident at the last high yellow buttress at the top of the kloof, opposite the descent gully. Start 25m downstream from the corner of the buttress, after scrambling up to a wide grass ledge.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the bulging wall and traverse diagonally right up to a block which looks as if it is standing on nothing. Climb over it to a large ledge. From the ledge follow a crack which slants right. Continue up a steep wall above and finish left of an overhang.

FA: Clive Ward & John Gregory, 1976

Trad 30m
15 Dripgrip
1 15 5m
2 11 15m
3 7 17m

Directly opposite PINK CORNER is a rather broken buttress. Scramble 12m up to its base. The initial objective is a cave at 5m guarded by a short steep wall providing the crux of the climb.

  1. 5m 15 Ascend the shallow recess which leads directly up the cave, where there is a wild fig tree, and tree belay.

  2. 15m 11 Continue up the crackline behind with a step left at 5m then over blocks to tree belay.

  3. 17m 7 Ascend rightwards then up left to avoid a detached flake to the top. Alternatively continue up towards right finishing up a small rib.

Note: Pitch 1 is often wet, but the following variations are usually dry:

1a. 17 Start 6m left of the original start and move up to a semi-hand traverse right to gain the ledge.

1b. 15 Start 5m right of the original start and ascend a steep wall on good holds.

FA: Merv Prior, A. Carmen & A. Koster, 1968

Trad 37m, 3
15 Festivity
1 11 12m
2 11 22m
3 15 18m

Directly opposite roots below OGIVE. Climb starts next to large tree with hammerkop's nest.

  1. 12m 11 Ascend face, bearing slightly left, to large ledge and tree belay.

  2. 22m 11 Climb steep broken face at left of ledge, moving gradually left, to a point at the right of large cave.

  3. 18m 15 Climb easy face for 12m to base of open book. Climb steep open book 6m to top of climb.

FA: Merv Prior & R. Green, 1970

Trad 52m, 3
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Trident Kloof True Right
15 Mermaid
1 13 25m
2 13 20m
3 15 22m

The climb starts about 10m to the right (upstream) of the start of NEPTUNE.

  1. 25m 13 Climb face 10m, traverse right 3m and move up to large ledge and stance.

  2. 20m 13 Move up 2m, traverse left 3m into shallow recess. Climb recess and small face to stance.

  3. 22m 15 Ascend face moving about 2m to the left then diagonally up to the right. Traverse 3m left then vertically up to the top.

FA: Merv Prior & R. Green, 1987

Trad 67m, 3
15 Neptune
1 13 14m
2 15 15m
3 13 30m
4 6 9m

The climb is situated on the centre of the face between TRIDENT RIDGE and TRIDENT CHIMNEY. It starts at a point where the bottom of the face is slightly undercut.

  1. 14m 13 Ascend a steep grey face, passing to the right of a large poised block, traverse right under a small overhang and thence up to a comfortable stance having a stout tree on it.

  2. 15m 15 Starting about 2,5m to left of tree, ascend to overhang, then traverse right to base of open book. The open book is the crux of the pitch. It ends on a narrow ledge (stance).

  3. 30m 13 Traverse right past overhanging recess for about 8m and then ascend 12m bearing slightly left until a smaller recess (which was also passed at a lower level during the traverse) is reached. There is a small tree in the recess a few metres higher. Traverse left onto a small exposed buttress and continue up to a stance about 3m higher in grassy cubby hole.

  4. 9m 6 Ascend diagonally to the right on rough granulated rock to the summit.


1a. 11 There are easier variations on either side of Pitch 1.

2a. 6 The open book of Pitch 2 can be avoided by traversing left at its base onto easy rock which continues to the narrow ledge.

3a. 11 Instead of traversing left onto "exposed buttress" in Pitch 3, continue up recess past the small tree.

FA: R. Davies, T .J. Louw & D.M. Williamson, 1952

Trad 68m, 4
15 Throatstopper Divine
1 10 22m
2 11 25m
3 15 34m

The climb is situated 5m to the left of NEPTUNE, just to the left of the large poised block and is beaconed. The climb follows the most feasible line on the large bare face between TRIDENT CHIMNEY and NEPTUNE.

  1. 22m 10 From the beacon up the left hand crack of a fault line to take off, then straight up for 9m, keeping well left of large poised block. At the level of the top of the block, traverse 9m left and up onto a large ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 25m 11 Walk along the ledge to the right, up and around on broken mass of jutting out rock then diagonally up to the right and through a 3m high flat-backed V-shaped recess. From the top of this down 1,5m to the left to a small tree on a small stance. tree and nut belay.

  3. 34m 15 Up from tree for 3m, then diagonally left towards a conspicuous nose 3m or so away. Up onto the nose, then ascend vertically for 18m until a ledge obscured by a vine hanging down the face is reached. From the ledge traverse 3m right to a platform. Up a few metres and scramble 6m diagonally to the left over blocks to a tree belay.

Note: In the opening ascent a sling tied to the vine was the only protection found after a 22m runout, hence the climb's name.

FA: T. O'Connor & Roy Kendall, 1975

Trad 81m, 3
15 George
1 14 12m
2 14 15m
3 15 9m
4 9 15m

The climb is immediately adjacent to TRIDENT CHIMNEY. The entire route follows the face of the rockwall facing upstream due to its right-angled bend. (See location of TRIDENT CHIMNEY.)

  1. 12m 14 Up sloping grey slab starting on right and bearing diagonally left. A study in thin climbing. A ledge and small tree for belay.

  2. 15m 14 Up corner on right side of ledge to overhang, step out to left and to top of gendarme with a big tree as belay. (Strenuous.)

  3. 9m 15 A few metres up rock face behind tree, short traverse to left and follow a deep sharp crack to ledge with a very large detached but substantial block as belay.

  4. 15m 9 Up in corner to summit.

Variation: 2a. 15 About 3,5m up pitch 2, traverse right onto ridge and continue up steep rock with good grips.

FA: T.J. Louw, W.L. Curie, E. Lude & E. Pearlstein, 1947

Trad 51m, 4
15 Bypass

The climb is located about 10m upstream from PROBOSCIS and generally follows the buttress on the right of PROBOSCIS. The crux of the route is a series of small overhangs at the same level as the crux pitch on PROBOSCIS. The route here bears left until a ledge is reached just right of the nose of PROBOSCIS, thence up and slightly right (steep) and past a small cabbage tree. A grey face finishes the climb. There are several variations to the lower part of the climb.

FA: M. Urban, H. Blades, P. Street & R. Charlton, 1960

15 Cat Walk
1 11 15m
2 15 18m
3 15 -

FA: R. Davies & R. Charlton, 1956

Trad 33m, 3
15 Cowboy
1 7 9m
2 13 5m
3 15 20m
  1. as per Bliksem

  2. as per Bliksem

  3. 20m 15,A1 A bold lassoo on the third pitch avoids the use of excessive aid. From the top of the second pitch, step across the open groove and gain a steep recess by an awkward move. (Peg in place.) Climb the recess moving right at the top to a fixed piton under an overhang. At this point, the original route traversed left. Lasso a spike above the overhang and, using a sling for aid, climb the overhang direct. After moving up for a few metres, traverse right around a nose and then climb to a good stance and belay.

FA: P. Goodridge & David Hughes, 1974

Trad 34m
15 Skeleton
1 15 18m
2 13 22m

The route starts immediately to the left of a cavern situated above a prominent scree slope.

  1. 18m 15 The first pitch starts on a ledge on top of sloping rock. Above this stance the rock wall forms an obtuse vertical angle. The first pitch goes up the easier inclined face to the right of the angle to a small platform.

  2. 22m 13 Up the angle for about 2,5m then a traverse of about 4m left, thence diagonally up towards the right to a shallow recess which starts at an overhang. There is a small tree in this recess. Pass the tree and continue up the recess to the summit.

Note: There is some loose rock on the second pitch, which can, however, be avoided with care.

FA: T. Louw, L. Lincoln & H. Howard, 1948

Trad 40m, 2
15 Pink Corner
1 15 8m
2 15 22m
3 11 12m
4 10 22m

This climb is on the buttress about 15m downstream from SKELETON, starting to the right of a very large block at the foot of the face.

  1. 8m 15 Ascend a steepish face, with sloping grips, to a platform with a small tree. This pitch can be obviated by scrambling up easy rock around to the right.

  2. 22m 15 Ascend loose-looking but easy rock for 5m (fixed piton), traverse left under a small overhang and then ascend 5m to a larger overhang (eye running belay point). From here traverse left and ascend easier rock for 12m to a small stance (fixed piton).

  3. 12m 11 Ascend then traverse right and ascend to a cubby hole in which there is a stamvrug tree.

  4. 22m 10 Ascend the face to the left of the recess above the cubby hole. About 12m up, the climb proper ends at a wide terrace, but one can continue up the face for another 9m on steep rock.

Variations: a. 13 At the level of the terrace on pitch 4, traverse left under some creepers and ascend the face about 9m downstream of pitch 4. b. 17 From top of pitch 2 ascend straight up i.e. avoiding the traverse right to the stamvrug tree. One can then end up on the normal pitch 4 or continue up and out left with variation (a).

FA: R. Davies, F. Villa, E. Chadwick & H. Lude, 1949

Trad 64m, 4
15 Emmas Dilemma
1 15 25m
2 13 25m

Starts 7m right of a corner crack which provides an easy ascent to the right hand end of RETRIBUTION LEDGE.

  1. 25m 15 Start on a grey wall. Move up and left for 3m on an ascending traverse to a ledge. Move slightly right. Follow an obvious shallow depression up to a large ledge.

  2. 25m 13 Climb the yellow wall with a bulge in the middle behind the stance. Keep right of an obvious easy crack to the left which joins Retribution top pitch. Climb the left side of the bulge following a definite crack. Finish up easy rock.

FA: Clive Ward & John Gregory, 1976

Trad 50m, 2
15 Retribution
1 11 12m
2 15 12m
3 11 12m
4 14 20m

The climb starts about 20m upstream from ONDERSTEBO, 2m left of a slender tree.

  1. 12m 11 Ascend a crack to a wide ledge screened by trees.

  2. 12m 15 Up approximately the centre of the grey slab above ledge. At about halfway up a short traverse of about two steps to the right thence straight up to a wide platform.

  3. 12m 11 Starting at the extreme right hand side of the platform climb up in corner of red rock to a point immediately underneath the very large overhang. Traverse right about 6m to a stance adjacent to a slit through which daylight is seen. A chockstone in this slit can be used as a belay.

  4. 20m 14 Traverse right round the nose and up to other side of slit where chockstone can again be used as belay. Then straight up to summit.

FA: S. Penny, T. Louw & R. Kinsley, 1950

Trad 56m, 4
15 Vertebrae
1 15 25m
2 13 28m

Start on the left hand side of a recess 3m right of ONDERSTEBO.

  1. 25m 15 Climb a groove on the left hand side of the recess until it is possible to move right under the overhang and across a short wall. Follow the groove above to a stance and tree belay.

  2. 28m 13 Move diagonally right over easy rock to the foot of a steep red wall. Ascend a corner on the left until it is possible to step onto the wall. Either climb straight up the centre of the wall or move across to a rib on the right hand side and climb that.

FA: Merv Prior, 1968

Trad 53m, 2
13 - 17 Life in the Easy Lane

Using the first grade 7 pitch of ONDERSTEBO, gain the large tree. Step right onto blocks.

  1. 20m 13 or 17 Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right (13) or break straight through (17). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.

FA: Ian Guest, Tim Hoole & L. Middleburg, 1985

Trad 20m
15 Midnight Crawl
1 15 15m
2 11 15m
3 15 28m

Start in large cave bounded on the left by a smooth red face and on the right by an overhanging wall. There are some blocks trapped in the "roof". Ascend the upstream facing left hand retaining wall of the cave.

  1. 15m 15 Climb the slab, initially up a faint crack in its middle and finally in the corner on the right, the crux being the rounding of the final overhang to gain a belay ledge.

  2. 15m 11 After a delicate step over to the right, traverse 3m to the right to a big ledge. Scramble 12m up easy rock to tree belay.

  3. 28m 15 Climb up in corner until forced out right by overhang. Diagonally right to a block jutting out from face 40cm, where a piton safeguards the move onto the ledge (the last 5m to the block are strenuous). Easier climbing on face to top.


3a. 28m 11 Step down and traverse right for 8m into corner, from where it is possible to climb up to the block mentioned above from the right (easier) and to top.

3b. 28m 16 Continue up crack through overhang to top.

FA: R.J. Stallebrass, A.D. van Doornum & D. Lubbe, 1963

Trad 58m, 3
15 Bite

This route ascends the obvious overhang a few metres to the right of BERG ADDER, immediately before GRASS.

  1. 30m 15 Ascend open book to gain the base of the overhang. Traverse out right to gain a small ledge. Finish as for GRASS.

FA: A.M. Maddison & R. Brand, 1984

Trad 30m
15 Pocket Rocket

On scrambling down the gully just downstream of the MIDNIGHT CRAWL buttress one comes across a groove system at the downstream extremity of the buttress. A salient feature of the route is a small rock pinnacle just underneath a horizontal dinner plate protrusion. The route starts on top of a large block just up from the start of the crack-cairn on the top of the block.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the crack just below the erectile projectile. Move cautiously up, pass the little pinnacle, and climb the faint open book above to reach the top of the gendarme. Move across the little gully and climb the rough wall behind to reach the comfortable belay stance on the top.


  1. The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out.

  2. An excellent route on rock which is not as easy as it first appears.

FA: Greg Devine & Tim Willmot, 1997

Trad 30m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 679 routes.

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