When standing at the entrance of the VALLEY. Look toward the TIME BOMB. There is a rock island about 200m away between you and the TIME BOMB. This line is on an egg shaped boulder on the back side of the rock island, its takes a cool rightwards tending crack from bottom to top, with some mantle mischief up top.
10m 18 Start directly underneath the main boulder, next to the square block on its left end. Make some fun moves up to the crack and climb this rightwards then up to the top.
The route heads up the centre of the face, 120m to the left of GREAT GULLY.
33m 18 Up smooth, narrow chimney/crack in a left facing corner formed by a
buttress and the main face. Alternatively, start about 15m to the right, in a right
facing corner on the other side of the buttress.
50m 7 Ascend from top of crack to large grass ledge. Traverse right 66m and
scramble up to a higher ledge at the base of a left trending ramp system.
50m 7 Ascend diagonally leftwards to the highest yellowwood trees.
30m 16 Walk leftwards along ledge. Either take the first crack which starts easily
and ends with a difficult move, or take the second crack which has an awkward
start past a small bush, but an easier exit via twin flakes. Continue diagonally
leftwards to a tree belay under a steep face.
20m 15 Traverse left, and then climb up 2m to the rail leading round bulge. Use
the rail as an undercling and move left for a few meters until able to drop down
onto a block (exposed). Move left into a gully.
25m 12 Climb gully to stance at top of pinnacle.
60m 15 An awkward start gains the recess leading upwards from the right hand
end of the gully. Climb this, trending leftwards to top out at the start of the maze.
Variation to pitches 1 and 2:
Starts in the recess just to the left of a prominent buttress about 90m to the right of
the original LEFT FACE chimney. This recess is topped by a large overhang about
50m above the ground.
40m 12 Climb recess for about 30m and traverse right along a small ledge to a
30m 13 Move up 3m from stance and traverse right about 10m around the
corner. Move up behind block and then onto it and continue up the face to a
Scramble for about 50m to the large grass ledge and continue with the rest of
the original route
Start about 250m right of MOONLIGHT a short distance past a large pile of
boulders. A series of corners and ledges slant diagonally up rightward for about 30m. A prominent series of overhangs leads diagonally up leftwards about 33m up.
30m 12 Start up short steep recess then diagonally up right to ledge. Step right and climb up just right of overhanging recess to next ledge. Climb up, via another ledge then a series of vertical cracks to small stance.
30m 14 Traverse left 8m via prominent detached block (appears safe) to recess right of pillar. Climb 3m up thin recess then traverse delicately left around pillar into another recess. Move up left side of recess (loose blocks at start) to just below overhang. Traverse 3m left then up, passing overhang on left to ledge.
23m 16 Climb up 3m and traverse left 7m into base of open recess. Climb up slightly right, to short overhanging section. Climb this to small ledge on right.
30m 14 Traverse left, moving up in a few places and finish traverse along
narrow, grass covered ledge. From left of ledge, climb up steep face on slightly unsound rock, move slightly left, into easier angled recess slanting up rightwards and follow this to large ledge.
43m 14 Step up and traverse 8m right to below bulging face. Surmount bulge at easiest point then traverse towards small tree in vegetated recess. Avoiding tree on the left, traverse across recess and climb right hand face which steepens near the top, to stance in easier angled recess above.
17m 7 Climb diagonally right to large grassy ledge. Walk about 85m rightwards to where ledge ends at overhanging vegetated recess.
25m 14 Traverse right across recess and climb up 3m to grassy ledge. Traverse back left into vegetated recess above overhang and climb it to stance on the left.
25m 16 Climb diagonally up left for 12m then straight up to ledge below steep face. From left end of ledge climb up thin face to just below a turf ledge. Step right and continue diagonally up right to ledge.
25m 16 Climb face above, partly via layback crack, to base of overhanging corner and jamming crack (hard). Ascend this and continue to large stance.
14m 7 Traverse right to large tree in lush recess (Jungle Ledge - superb bivvy). About 35m above ledge are two chimneys. The route goes up right hand one.
25m 14 Climb recess behind tree starting left and traversing to the right side 4m up. Continue up to overhang at top of recess and move out delicately around corner into groove in right hand face. Climb up 5m to ledge on right.
30m 16 Climb face diagonally above for 7m. Trend left towards ledge below
prominent right hand overhanging chimney. Climb to chimney with difficulty and
climb it more easily to ledge below red, recessed face (bivy site).
25m 17 About 8m up face is small tree with a crack to its left. Climb face,
starting on the right then traversing left into crack just below tree. Aid on a nut to pass tree on left and continue as far as possible up crack system to awkward resting place in small open book. Aid on piton to the left to cross an undercut face and gain base of prominent chimney. Climb up 8m to ledge.
25m 18 Climb the chimney and continuation cracks to ledge.
25m 16 Climb continuation chimney above.
25m 10 Continue up until able to scramble.
66m 5 With bits of 10, scramble via short unpleasant chimney to summit.
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).
45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.
38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m (through small roof). Straight up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.
38m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge. (blocks).
Walk to the right hand end of the Grassy Ledge. Down climb to a stance on the far right of the ledge, at the base of chossy-looking, east-facing corner.
35m 18 (17A0) Climb corner, stepping right at the top. Pull through roof on the left. Move right a few metres to a break. Follow this for 25m to a stance near some blocks (17A0 if you rest on a nut below the roof).
50m 15 2m right is a left facing corner capped by a half metre roof. Climb this and continue up the next right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left until the ledge narrows, then blast straight up the wall above finishing up a left leaning corner crack to a large ledge. Climb up the wall to a small pillar. Move delicately right and then head for the yellowwood tree at the big platform up and right.
15m 15 Head for the next yellowwood tree up and left. Follow the recess above to large ledges. The Bivi Cave lies to the right.
45m 17 Move through the yellowwood and step off it on to the thin face. Climb the face diagonally left to the arête, follow this to the corner. Up this to step left at the big roof. Wind through on monster jugs to huge ledge.
38m 18 From the upper ledge attack the jug forest above. Move right on to thinner stuff a little higher and climb to ledge.
25m 16 Start from right hand side of large boulder. Climb the break, moving out left and exit into jungle.
25m 15 LAST MOON takes the obvious major chimney behind the jungle. Climb the jug infested face just right of the chimney.
This RD is a stand alone version of the easiest pleasant route up the north wall. It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), MOONRAKER (pitch 4 and some of pitch 5), LAST MOON (pitches 6 and 7) and ROAD WARRIOR (pitches 8 and 9).
The route generally follows the shallow recess about 30m to the left of the prominent chimney of Afternoon Ascension. At the base is a steep corner that peters out before reaching the shallow recess above. About 15m to the right is another corner extending from the left of a small overhang about 3m up to a larger overhang about 12m up. Start below this corner.
26m (F3 A1) Mantleshelf up to face to a small ledge below the corner, then climb the corner to the upper overhang via mixed aid and free climbing. Move to the left under the overhang to a ledge and then traverse to the left around a bulge to a ledge at the base of a recess.
40m (G1) Climb 6m diagonally to the left up a face, then traverse to the right into a corner behind a huge flake. Climb 7m to a ledge at the top of the flake, then traverse to the left to the arete. Move up a thin face to a small sloping ledge, then move to the left around the arete and into a corner. Climb the corner for about 18m to a small ledge at the top of a pinnacle.
30m (F3) Continue 12m up to corner to a small ledge on the left-hand face. Continue up the face to another ledge, then traverse to the left until the large ledge can be easily gained.
25m (F2) Climb the continuation of the recess to a large ledge.
32m (G1 A1) From the left-hand end of the large ledge, descend to a small ledge and traverse to the left to the base of a bulging crack. Climb the crack, using two nuts for aid in the lower portion, to easier rock above the overhang. Continue to top.
The route goes up the prominent crack-line 50m to the right of Afternoon Ascension on the Eastern Buttress above the camp site.
Scramble up to a ledge and tree belay at the foot of the crack.
36m (G1) Climb the crack (difficult to start) and then continue diagonally up to the left for 13m on broken rock before moving diagonally back to the right into the crack about 5m below a small tree. Climb the crack with difficulty past two small trees, to a stance on a small ledge with a good tree belay.
13m (F2) Traverse to the right around the corner for 7m to a large ledge, and then climb up steeply to another large ledge with a small tree belay.
11m (F2) Climb diagonally back up to the left to a stance in the main crack (Nut belay).
36m (G1) Climb steeply up the crack for 8m before traversing to the right with difficulty, using a small finger-rail, to a foothold around the corner. Mantleshelf with difficulty onto a small ledge and continue up via two further hard moves to a ledge with a bong belay 3m below a prominent overhang in the main crack.
30m (F3) Climb up to the overhang and continue strenuously past it on the left. Continue up the steep crack to a small ledge with nut belays about 5m below a large section of red rock.
48m (F2) Descend 1m from the stance and traverse delicately to the left for 7m into a corner. Traverse further to the left along a grassy ledge and then climb up, bearing slightly left to a grassy stance with a tree belay.
The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain.
Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.
18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.
22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance
30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.
40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.
Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.
15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.
24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.
18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.
30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.
15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).
33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.
16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.
18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.
4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).
20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.
20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.
FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)
Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.
Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.
To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.
Start in a recessed chimney 50m to the left of the fence (boundry).
25m (E2) Traverse out of chimney to the left and ascend diagonally over
broken rock to stance at a tree.
40m (F2) Continue up steep rock directly above belay then traverse
diagonally left, move up an open book (awkward) and continue left to a stance.
20m (D) Climb up diagonally left then up right to the bottom of a
30m (F1) Climb the recess to a little tree, then traverse left along a ledge
under overhangs to big blocks. Continue up diagonally right, over the overhangs
into a recess and traverse delicately right to reach stance on a big block.
30m (E2) Scramble up at first then diagonally left into a recess. Traverse
left and climb diagonally right and up to the top of the first rockband.
30m (F2) On the second rockband start about 25m to the right of the normal
route. Climb a face until a ledge is reached, which is at the same level as the
top of a rock pillar on the right. Traverse right moving over the pillar to a
30m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m into a recess. Climb the recess and traverse
slightly to the right and then back into upper recess. Climb overhang (aid) to
a small ledge, ascend the crack on the wall above (aid) and move right to small
recess and ledge (awkard and exposed move). Climb up to large ledge then
traverse left to a stance with a big block.
25m (F3) Traverse diagonally right for 4m. Pull-up a short step and climb a
corner. Traverse left along a ledge to below a smooth open book. Climb the open
book to a cubbyhole. The stance is shared with top pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontal.
(This pitch is possible G1 for short climbers)
20m (G1 A1) Traverse left 3m and aid up 2 points to a ledge (or move over
normal overgang of pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontol Route thereby eliminating the
aid). Move right into a corner, ascend the flared crack with difficulty and
move out right at the top. Scramble up 3m then climb up a slab moving
delicately over a bulge to beneath a little overhang. Layback out to the right
and climb up to a ledge. (Stance shared with pitch 14 of Hanglip Frontal Route)
30m (F1) From an old ring piton traverse right slightly for 2m and climb
the face to a ledge, ascend the crack above and cotinue diagonally right to the
15m (F3) Climb wide crack to ledge and tree belay.
30m (F2) Climb recess above to cave-like cubby-hole.
25m (G1) Climb up for 3m and traverse left to ledge. Ascend to right hand
ledge (mantleshelf) to base of open book. Jam and layback up crack to overhang.
Traverse out left to block and chock belay. Scramble up to ledge (10m).
35m (F3) Start at right hand corner. Climb crack to grass and traverse left
for 15m into a recess. Ascend recess to ledge and chock belay.
25m (F2 A1) Ascend corner for 2m and traverse left for 8m. Ascend steep face
using one sling aid.
25m (E3) Walk left to end of ledge and climb recess to top.
The climb is situated on the second buttress to the right of Hanglip.
The route goes through the lower face then up a recess and face to the
left of the red faces of the second buttress. Start 5m to the right of
a tree below some overhangs.
18m (F3) Pull up and mantleshelf onto a ledge then move left about
1m into a recess with a crack. With a handjam move up then traverse
left and up to a stance at a tree.
18m (F3) Traverse left 4m and climb onto a ledge. Traverse back
right to below a recess. Climb up delicately to a small stance at a
30m (G1) Move up the crack above and fist-jam out to the right up
the crack. Climb delicately right and up to a ledge. Continue right
then up a gully to a stance and tree. Scramble left along a ledge to
where the ledge narrows.
40m (F2) Climb up a buttress on the left and make one pull-up move.
Continue up then right to a big boulder at the start of a ramp.
40m (F1) Climb the ramp (20m) then move left above into a recess.
Climb the recess then move out right and up to a stance with tree.
45m (F1) Move left then up the recess into a cave. Straddle up and
move out right at the top. Continue up to a tree. Climb left onto a
face and stance.
40m (F1) Climb up diagonally right then pull up and traverse right
to a balancing boulder. Climb onto the top and ascend a face
diagonally right to a recess. Climb out left to a stance.
The route runs up the centre of the third rock band north of Hanglip proper. It
is easily distinguished by the following descriptions: A corner with a large
open book will be observed approximately 100m up. In the middle of the open
book, a strip of white rock is noticeable. To the left of the route there is a
large grassy ramp, ending short of a free-standing rock tower.
30m (F2) From the beacon, ascend the crack which narrows in the centre. The
overhang at the top is avoided by negotiating the left-hand wall.
35m (F2+) AScend broken wall to large shelf. Climb the corner on the left
with stance on second shelf.
35m (G1) Traverse 1-2m to the right and ascend the face until directly under
the overhang. Traverse right to ledge below large open book.
18m (G1) Use aid to get off the ground, and climb the following 5m free.
Two further aid moves are required to attain a small fig tree. A small stance
will be reached 6m higher.
15m (G1) Climb to the top of the open book. Aid was used to negotiate the
bulge and to move off the stance.
27m (F1) Traverse to the right and climb up a short crack - then traverse 16m
to the right onto a grassy band.
25m (F2) Climb the receding ramp in the corner. The crux is below a tree that
grows out of the corner approximately hald way up.
40m (E2) Climb the right hand crack to the summit.
After being so impressed with the corner on which Tarantula is situated we
decided that the Tarantula should have a mate, even though it was of a different
species. Tarantula and Black Widdow make exiting Hanglip climbing.
30m (F2+) Climb the second crack to the right of Tarantula i.e. the major
corner below the overhang above. Stance on top of a pillar.
25m (F2 A2) Climb up corner to large ledge, follow crack and overhang (aid)
to small stance directly above.
20m (G1) Climb crack to a tiny one-man stance.
20m (F3 A1) Continue up crack and overhang (A1). Then traverse left and up to
large stance common with Tarantula.
10m (F2) Traverse to the right and around to the next crack.
35m (F3) Climb up crack to overhang, traverse left and up to a small cubby
30m (G1) Move out to the right and up a crack to a largish ledge and continue
up crack immediately above last stance, to a big vegetated ledge.
40m (F3+) Climb up slightly overhanging crack (crux) behind stance, continue
up crack to a ledge. Go left a few meters and continue up the chimney to the
The climb is situated at the right hand side of the gully about 80m left of
Octopus. Obvious crack line which disappears about two thirds of the way up the
18m (F3) Climb left side of crack to tree and traverse right for 3m. Climb up
1m underneath roof and continue traversing into chimney.
40m (F3) Ascend chimney for 15m. Traverse left 3m on small holds. Climb up 20m
to large ledge.
40m (G1 A0) Start behind huge block in left-hand corner. Climb up for 5m and
walk back to crack (right). Climb past small tree, follow left ramp and traverse
out on top to cubby hole. Move out of cubby hole, using running belay as a
handhold. Climb up to left corner of overhang, fix running belay, climb down 1m
and traverse right for 8m. Ascend to large ledge above. The start of the
traverse is the crux and was climbed with rope tension.
40m (F2) Walk left for 15m. Climb up and diagonally left for 8m (F2). Grade-E
climbing completes the route.
The climb is situated on the fourth rock-fold (counting a smaller one) west of
the Hanglip peak, and goes up the prominent crack to the right of Octopus, i.e. third crack from the left. Scramble up to the sloping grass ledge, then up to a crack on the right (F1). Traverse to the left into another crack. Ascend 5m to a
tree and continue up to a third tree.
25m (F1) Climb crack and move out by a rock-flake. Continue up and make a
stance on a large tree.
25m (F2+) Move up, then chimney out to overcome a small overhang. Move up
crack until it is possible to chimney out underneath a chockstone. Climb up on
the left to a tree belay.
20m (G1) Move up for 2m to gain a crack on the right for the first aid
move. Move over to the left wall (bong) and then through overhang (A2). Free
climbing to second chockstone where a stance is made in a deep cubby-hole. (Opened on Aid)
30m (F1+) Continue up crack until an obvious barring overhang is reached.
Climb out to the left and up 4m to a stance.
35m (F2) Climb diagonally up left following a crack line until a ledge with a
90° corner is reached. Climb the shallow groove 2m to the right of the corner
and upwards to below some overhangs. After having moved up a small block,
mantelshelf onto an overhanging but sharp edged ledge to the left.
25m (F1) From the large block on the left of the ledge, climb up slightly to
the left then right into a rounded crack. Climb this and then up to the top.
Descend down the left-hand gully (facing the rock).
Climb taking a line straight up the first tier by way of a distinct chimney.
5m (E1) Climb up to a ledge with a tree and continue for 3m up a chimney.
42m (F3) Climb the chimney to a good ledge.
30m (F2) Traverse slightly to the right and up into the continuing crack
system for 20m. Traverse left to a good ledge. Climb up a short wall and
continue traversing to a tree belay.
42m (G1 A1) Walk around to the left to the first open book. The line takes
the crack in the corner of this open book. (Protection is poor at times.) The
crux is halfway up the open book. Two etrier moves are made at the top section
of the crack (one peg in place). Continue up to overhangs then traverse right
from under the overhangs to a shallow carck. Below a crack filled with roots
from a wild fig tree, climb straight up to a good ledge.
40m (F1) Traverse diagonally right over a block up onto a wall. Traverse left
and then straight up to a series of ledges. Bearing right, continue until rope
drag forces one to make a stance.
40m (E1) Zigzag up a number of grassy ledges to the base of a small chimney.
20m (E2) Ascend the chimney then traverse left to tree belay.
Shares pitches 1 and 2 with Exposure: On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm
of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the
large V cracks.
27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for
13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.
13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the
stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the
right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.
25m (F3) Climb up the main crack to a ledge.
7m (G1) Ascend the overhanging crack to a large block belay. If this pitch is done with the aid of a shoulder it is F3.
23m (F2) Climb 13m in the crack to a ledge. Here there are three
(F1) Move to the left across and up to a ledge for 2m. Climb the overhang
for10m to a ledge. Block belay in corner.
(G1) Climb the overhanging crack, on rotten rock, to a belay.
(F3) Move up to a narrow horizontal crack. Dassie-traverse to the nose.
Climb up the nose to a belay.
25m (F3 A0) Climb up the crack for 5m, then using a shoulder for aid to
overcome the bulge, continue to a large block 13m higher. Move diagonally to the
left for 7m to a large ledge where there is a good belay.
27m (E2) Continue up to the left for 17m on easier ground, then climb the
recess for 10m to a ledge using a piton belay.
17m (E1) Move down a few metres and then traverse to the left. Continue up
13m to the left to a large block.
13m (E1) Move up a few meters, traverse to the left for 7m, and the climb
straight up for 5m to a ledge where there is a block belay.
37m (F1) Several alternatives become possible, zigzagging up ledges to a ledge directly above the previous stance where there is a block belay (poor protection).
Move into the corner and climb grade-D rock for two rope lengths to the top.
Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
(Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
2 meters to the right of FINGER THING is a vertical crack line that tends right to a small roof at 10 meters
23m 18 Climb the crack and surmount the roof (crux). Continue up the crack to its end, then straight up the face above to the right hand end of a good ledge and tree belay (common with FINGER THING)
20m 16 From the right end of the stance, climb up tending right to a ledge at 10m. Traverse right 3m to avoid some dodgy large flakes. Climb vertically up through a chimney recess just left of a predominant nose (which can be seen from ground level) to a good ledge in front of a cubby hole.
The climb starts in the base of the recess 4m to the right of KB1 (cairn). There is a rhombohedral overhang about 20m up.
38m 18 Climb the recess past small trees to the overhang. Pull through the notch in the overhang to the ledge. Traverse 1,5m left under the second overhang, up the face for 3m and back right into the recess above the second overhang. Climb the recess and rib above to the top.
Climbing through the second overhang was done by the second at 19.
FA:Stewart Middlemiss, A. Maddison & D. Margetts, 1985
This route takes the steep face 5m to the right of and upstream of the climb THE SQUAT PINNACLE.
30m 18 Climb the easy face up to the overhang, move through the overhang on the left side (crux). Continue up the face to a good ledge (avoiding easy open book to the left). Climb the recess/chimney at the back of the ledge to the overhang, surmount the overhang and continue to the top.
This climb can be split into 2 pitches.
FA:D. Margetts, A. Maddison & Stewart Middlemiss, 1985
On the opposite side of the kloof to the GRASSY SLAB the river runs (occasionally) over some polished slabs right next to the krantz. RIGHT SLANT goes up the steep recess above the slabs. 5m upstream there is a corner capped by an overhang 20m up. A small tree grows at the foot of the corner. The climb goes up this corner.
32m 18 Climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab beneath the overhang. Traverse a few metres further left and climb up to the cubbyhole at the base of a steep face .
22m 15 Climb diagonally right to the large tree on the face. Continue up to the overhang on the left. Turn the overhang by climbing up and right and continue up to another overhang. Bypass this on the left and continue to the ledge.
27m 8 Scramble up to a face on the right and climb it.
The route is located between GEORGE and HEADACHE. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of HEADACHE, but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.
15m 18 Start from same ledge as HEADACHE but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).
12m 15,A1 Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of GEORGE.)
15m 10 Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.
2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose.
2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.
The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of SKELETON and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of SKELETON CAVE and chockstone belay, below the corner.
18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by SKELETON is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.
12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.
FA:A.D. Barley, R.P. Barley, K. Fletcher & A. Carmen, 1968
Downstream from PINK CORNER, on the same side of the kloof is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.
18m 16 Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)
12m 10 Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.
15m 18 Climb the open book (chockstone half way up).
Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the left hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.
38m 18 Climb right hand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.
Three-quarters of the way up Castle Gully there is a prominent buttress, which in fact separates Castle Gully from Rock Gully. On the buttress, on the Castle Gully side, there is a prominent wedge-shaped ridge on top of which there is a small pinnacle. The climb is situated on the downstream face of this ridge.
18m 17 Climb the face, starting near the outer edge, for about 5m on small flat holds. Then move diagonally left into the recess at the junction of the ridge with the buttress. Ascend the recess to a tree belay.
15m 18 Traverse right across the face on small grips to a narrow crack near the right hand edge. Ascend the crack, (mainly on arms) as far as the base of the pinnacle. Thence traverse to the right and up the back of the pinnacle to the top.
Scramble about 30m up to the ledge at the base of the MUFFIN DIRECT corner. Start about 50m to the right of the start of the MUFFIN DIRECT corner below a prominent steep left facing and leaning recess with a crack of very uniform width (No 1 to 1.5 "Friends") running up its entire height.
25m 18 Climb easily up to a tree in the crack and climb awkwardly through it. Continue up the layback crack to the top of the recess (crux towards the top).
Between Reunion gully and the CREAM TEAM gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.
20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.
The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of MIKE'S DESPAIR. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses MIKE'S DESPAIR at its first stance.
35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of MIKE'S DESPAIR and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.
The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of RED CORNER, i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.
12m 18 Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. RED CORNER, and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.
20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.
25m 7 Continue up the recess to top.
By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).
The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.
12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from LOST TRAIL. One man stance.
22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.
30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.
The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of GENESIS on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing.
25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.
This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of SCANDAL, immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.
30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.
Scramble up to grassy ledge below SHORT CIRCUIT. Climb follows left-leaning corner 10m to right of SHORT CIRCUIT.
35m 18 Climb left-leaning open book to blocky ledges (15m). Move right onto wall with handrail. Traverse across wall moving up towards end (10m). Climb steep recess (just to left of easy chimney) to belay ledge.
30m 17 Follow open book above (mostly climbing on left face) to ledge above. Carry on up open book as it steepens, squeezing past creeper at top.
The corner of pitch 1 was first climbed in Dec 1985 by A.J. Smith, B. O’Meara and K.M. Smith as MEGAWHAT.
Start as for CAN-CAN. Scramble up to ledge (5 metres).
35m 18 Climb the first 8 metres of the corner as for CAN-CAN and instead of traversing left, move through the left hand side of the overhang and back right to the crack which is followed to the belay ledge.
35m 16 Climb up the open-book which runs to the top of the cliff for approximately 10 metres. Move right under a flake and up into another narrow open-book, which is followed to top.
The climb is about 15m upstream from DARK GULLY. A square grey buttress extends from halfway up the krantz. Above this the face is steep and reddish.
22m 10 Scramble up to the left side of the grey buttress, traverse left around corner, continue up line of narrow crack to tree, move left and up, and finally bear right to top of buttress.
12m 6 Ascend grey rock above base of red recess.
22m 17 Up recess to overhang, then move right and up via three narrow off-balance steps. A little higher than the last step move left and up to top via crack. This pitch is steep and sustained.
20m 18 Move up recess to overhang. Traverse left thinly to clear roof. Mantle onto hold at base of small open book above. Ascend this to under roof. Step right onto easier ground. Move up open book above to gain large stance. (May 1987 S. Kelsey and Tim P. Willmot)
Scramble up Dark Gulley until able to traverse right onto a ledge with large squat grey pinnacle on it. Belay here.
18, 35m Scramble/climb up the easy corner above the pinnacle until able to step right onto the large ledge beneath the imposing steep red face. Climb up on the right then step back left to the base of the main face. Climb this directly to an obvious traverse line that leads to a small ledge on the left arête. Climb the arête to the top.
This climb is situated in the huge chimney recess 50m downstream of the Cedarberg / Tonquani junction, starting about 15m to the right of REIGN OF FIRE.
25m 18 Climb the crack system on the left hand wall of the huge recess/chimney (looking inward) i.e. climb the cracks to the overhang, pull through small overhang, traverse left for about 1m then continue up to ledge just above tree.
25m 13 Move up recess behind stance for 1 to 2m then move right onto exposed nose of buttress. Continue up for about 5m exiting right to tree belay.
Very pleasant route on good rock, good exposure on second pitch. For descent abseil off good tree at top of second pitch (one 45m abseil sufficient).
FA:Darryl Margetts, N. Antoncich & G. Margetts, 1986
On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20 meters from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.
20m 18 Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.
Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.
20m 17 Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.
15m 18 On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.
30m 13 Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.
The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite RED FALCON CRAG. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.
35m 15,R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.
35m 18 Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head.
The R1 means "liberal use of root". The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.
The climb is situated just downstream of FROG GULLY and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, upstream facing, right-angled red open book.
25m 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.
14m 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.
12m 7 Climb to right of tree to top.
Variation: (four stars)
To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.
3a. 12m 17 Step back left over the main corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top. (Apr 1990 R. Dodding and P. Fatti)
About 25m below the main swimming pool, a large roof can be seen high up with an obvious jam crack cutting through it. Scramble to the base of the face below this roof.
30m 18 Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Climb the short face (old piton), using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree.
15m 17 Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.
On pitch 1, it is possible to continue straight up the crack instead of moving left at grade 22.
This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX and ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of FROG GULLY. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.
20m 18 Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.
Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of CEDARBERG CORNER.
9m 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of BUTTERFLY.)
30m 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.
The first free ascent was in Mar 1986 by S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright.
Starts directly under roof mentioned in LONDON TOWN, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of LONDON TOWN. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of LONDON TOWN's second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of LONDON TOWN and GOLDEN BALLS).
15m 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.
20m 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.
This climb is situated about 100m upstream of the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. It is characterized by a smooth sloping slab with an overhang halfway up the slab and a crack running up the top section.
23m 18 Climb directly up the thin face on the left of the corner, towards the overhang. Break through the overhang to below a crack. Ascend the crack above the overhang to the top of the crag.
Thin climbing with adequate protection using small wires.
FA:M. Seegers, T. Truter, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1988
Just upstream of the SLIPSTREAM buttress is an abseil descent gully. 9m upstream of this, the cliff turns back towards the stream bed. The route ascends the open book so formed and has as objective, the clean, crisp, open book visible high up.
23m 14 Climb the groove pulling over the large chockstone. Amble up the gully and pull over the second block to a large comfortable ledge at the base of the clean steep open book with finger crack in corner.
16m 18 Take off with difficulty and layback, stem, jam up the crack and through the bulge above. Exit right at top of book.
Steep in places. Protection is good. The second pitch, although short, is excellent clean climbing.
FA:T.P. Willmot, P.J. Duggan, at a crack in wall leading to perched block. 1. 37m 15 Climb crack past block, move diagonally left to SLIPSTREAM. Almost immediately traverse right onto nose of buttress by a sharp foot rail. Up wall to loose blocks & step right, 1992
Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete.
35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.
Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.
Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete.
8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun.
Start under the big roof immediately to the right of TRIO.
20m 18 Climb up the crack in the corner to the base of the roof. Move out under the roof to the right and pull through the roof on good holds onto the headwall. Climb up to the big ledge shared with TRIO. Finish as for TRIO.
Upstream and around the corner from CENTIPEDE lies a short recess leading to a ledge with it V-groove above,
8m 17 Climb the recess to the ledge.
12m 18 Climb up the V-groove past a poor piton and continue up past a sapling to it small ledge on the right, then reach up and mantleshelf on to a large ledge.
25m 17 Climb the obvious crack with loose flakes in it, using bridging movements when it becomes overhung. Step up right and continue straight up on broken ground until below a little chimney with a steep wall on the left. Climb up the wall to reach the top of the cliff.
Climbs the steep face just to the right of CENTIPEDE.
36m 18 Start as for CENTIPEDE and climb up to the small ledge. Instead of moving left climb the crack on the right. At the top of the crack move right onto the slab. Climb up the middle of the slab to a good ledge.
15m 12 Climb the face above the ledge to the top of the crag.
Very enjoyable exposed climbing on the 1st pitch.
FA:Martin Seegers, Darryl Margetts, Miss E. Boyes & Miss R. Parr, 1988
20m 18 Move up and right from the ledge to a chimney. Ascend the chimney until forced out on the right to a small ledge. Climb up for 2m and then move left, back into the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top of the crag.
The opening party found that the chimney was too narrow to climb at a certain point and were forced out of it. However, a smaller climber may be able to climb the entire chimney. If this variation is chosen then the grading given is not applicable as the crux move was stepping out of the chimney.
This climb is situated on the downstream face of the LITTLE MOLAR. (See LITTLE MOLAR description).
30m 18 Climb up the middle of the face avoiding the recess on the left. Use a running belay on the tree to the left, as protection is minimal. On reaching a comfortable ledge traverse right and move up underneath the overhang. Traverse further right and then, after moving up, make a very committing gymnastic move left to a small ledge on the face above the overhang (crux). Move up an exposed face to an airy stance just below the final summit block.
Use the peg (Lost Arrow) for the crux move. The first slab can be avoided by traversing in to the comfortable ledge from the gully on the left. The climb can be divided into two pitches, by using the comfortable ledge after the initial slab as a stance.
This climb ascends the red faces upstream of the pinnacle routes just before the upper junction of the kloofs. Scramble up the initial rock to the base of the red faces. Move to the right of the faces and to the base of a chimney.
25m 18 Move up the chimney/recess to the base of an overhang. Traverse left at the base of the overhang 2m and continue up to a hollow sounding block. Move to the top of the block then traverse right again for 3m to a 2 man stance.
11m 11 From the stance move up and leftwards to a pleasant face, move diagonally leftwards to the top.
FA:Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts & Adele Margetts, 1986