Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Start just to the left of Eye Of Osiris and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

Climbs the obvious stepped corner system on the east face of the south Donjon. The route starts up a corner left of a 6m high pillar next to the rock face.

1. 43m 19 Climb the corner exiting left and up to the ledge on top of some flakes.

2. 38m 17 up the front of the pillar for a few metres then into corner on the right and up to traverse line. Traverse right and up to ledge beneath roofs.

3. 41m 22 Climb up corner/peapod/groove/chimney above to a stance below large roof (Originally climbed as 2 pitches (20A1 and 19A1) with a hanging belay).

4. 40m 20 Traverse right under roof and climb corner/chimney above to ledge on arête. (Originally 2 pitches, 19A1 and 19).

5. 40m 18 Climb the corner past a tree to a bushy ledge. Climb diagonally left up lichen-covered face to belay in gully.

Scramble rightwards up the gully then walk right along the ledge to another gully which is followed to the top.

Start 90m left of SKIN THE CAT. A long roof can be seen 70m up. Start directly below the notch in the roof. Scramble 12m up LHS of pillar to a ledge.

1. 50m 19 Up flake on right for 8m. Move left on to face, up tree roots to tree. Up groove (becomes a flake) then up wall. Traverse right to ledge, up, back left into corner and up the ledge.

2. 35m 19 Up to next ledge, then up right to pull through right hand V-notch. Up to grass ledge. Walk 30m right and up to under steep cave and scramble up. (25m left of SKIN THE CAT).

3. 35m 21 Move up about 5m left of corner and move through roofs at their smallest. Diagonally up rightwards to crack, up this, then left to ledge.

4. 25m 20 Up to cubby hole under roof. Pull through and up right to ledge.

5. 35m 20 Up and diagonally left across slab to below steep gnarly rock. Pull through and up to stance at base of chimney.

6. 40m 22 Delicate Slab Pitch: Up chimney and out onto wall above. Up crack system straight up to ledge. Traverse 12m right to base of corner behind tree.

7. 50m 18 Up corner/crack, move left onto arête at top, follow nose straight to top. Scramble to the top.

Start location as for HALFMOON.

1. 40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).

2. 40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).

3. 40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.

4. 40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.

5. 40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.

6. 50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.

7. 45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.

8. 40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the chimney to a ledge.

9. 60m Roped scrambling to the top.

Between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE, there is a 50m long roof at 70m height. In the middle of the roof are two large flake lines. Below the right-hand one, on a ledge about 10m off the normal ground level, is a pillar with a chimney-sized gap behind it. Start at the base of the right hand side of the pillar.

1. 45m 20. Climb right hand side of pillar. Continue up flake line until first roof is reached. Move left to a break, and continue up to narrow ledge, directly above pillar, and about 8m below main roof.

2. 30m A2. Great Roof Pitch. Thrash through hanging gardens up and left from stance (the swath of clear-cut from FA is likely to have re-grown). Move left at roof, then out along flake. At piton, move left for two moves onto drilled bat hook hole Move up through overlap to reach rail, then right onto ledge with poor peg belay.

3. 40m 16. Move right into corner, then up and left to a grassy ledge, belaying off a tree. Awesome bivy to right of tree on cleared ledge below some low roofs (blackened corner). Next pitch starts from left end of these roofs, as for PROJECT THREE. The Grassy Ledge can be reached by walking right.

4. 30m 20. (As for PROJECT THREE) Pull through initial overhang at chest height, move right, then follow corner to next roof. Move left, then up to stance on small ledge 10m left of peg on HEY JUDE.

5. 35m 20 (As for PROJECT THREE) Clamber up blocks forming right hand side of stance. Follow intermittent crack above, stepping left when holds run out, then right again 2m higher. Continue up to stance on right end of Jungle Ledge.

6. 50m 22A2+. Move up and right from stance, with very technical climbing leading to left-facing corner 15m right of HALFMOON’s chimney. When free climbing becomes untenable, start aiding. Beyond the roof, technically easy but exciting aid leads up and left of overhang, then up again on slabs until a stance can be made just below the right-leaning cracks.

7. 40m 22 (19A1) Step left from the stance to gain the long right-leaning crack. Follow this until the crack splits. The right-hand line becomes a frightening offwidth through a huge roof. Follow the left-hand line around the roof with two points of aid, then right into a gully (as for SCATTERLINGS).

8. 15m 15. Continue up through trees until the Disco Ledge Bivi is reached (a flattopped pillar about the area of a small car, with a small cave/fissure behind).

9. 5m 15. Leave the Disco Ledge via the crack that the gully has narrowed to.

10. 100m. Contribute to deforestation on your way to the top.

Notes:

1. Special equipment. Two hooks suitable for small edges, two standard hooks, one hook for 5mm wide, 8mm deep holes. Aiders (etriers) are useful. A handbolting kit is recommended to beef-up the second stance with two bolts. A double or triple rack of small wires is useful for pitch 6.

2. Free notes. Pitch 2 can probably be mostly freed at grades that someone you know can climb. Pitch 6 would be bold, but most moves should be doable free.

3. Pitch 7 sounds suspiciously like the crux of SCATTERLINGS (22)?

A 50m long roof is situated about 70m up, between HALF MOON and HEY JUDE. SCATTERLNGS climbs up about 10m to the right of the right hand end of the roof. Directly below this point, scramble up 2m to the base of a short square recess. This point is about 15m left of HEY JUDE’s start.

1. 40m 18 Straight up a blocky rock, past wide ledge and small tree to base of crack system running up scooped face. Climb crack and corner then traverse 4m left to ledge on arête. 10m up to the right is obvious small nose-like roof.

2. 35m 21 Climb right and up to a rail which extends rightwards 4m below nose. Rail right, about 3m past the nose, then climb up until level with roof. Traverse left onto the nose then move up to a rail which is followed left until able to climb up leftwards to a small ledge. Climb up a few metres further to a large ledge on the right. One is now directly above the start of the climb.

3. 55m 18 35m up to the left is a small tree. Climb diagonally leftwards up railed face. At about 20m move right past end of long narrow roof. From small tree follow leftleading corner to ledge on top of pillar. Continue up to left end of Grassy Ledge. The chains of the Rap Route are just below the ledge.

4. 40m 13 Climb up obvious gully/corner on left side of pillar (HEY JUDE climbs right side of pillar). Before the top of gully traverse left a few metres until able to climb up and left to ledge directly above previous stance. (HEY JUDE stances further left, where there are chains hidden by grassy tuft).

5. 45m 21 Move past a small cammed block to righthand end of ledge. Climb up rightward to gain vague crack system leading up wall. Climb crack to its end, then move left to base of narrow left facing dihedral. Climb this to small roof then move slightly left to gain a crack (about 2m right of HEY JUDE). Climb up to rail and traverse 3m right. Climb straight up past a prong to ledge, move 2m left, then continue up to long narrow ledge. Walk left for half a rope length, to a point 10m right of the tallest tree (Jungle Ledge). HALFMOON heads up big recess on the left.

6. 20m 18 turn the small roof a few metres up, then zig-zag up face above to reach ledge and block. Above and slightly left are two steep.

7. 20m 21 Climb up and left to base of right-hand chimney (HALF MOON). Undercling left to gain left hand chimney/recess which is followed to ledge.

8. 20 m 18 It makes sense to link pitches 8 and 9 to avoid the cubbeyhole stance. Climb diagonally right to gain right leaning crack. Gain the top of large block/flake left of crack. Continue up crack to cubbyhole (uncomfortable).

9. 20m 22 Climb the continuation crack (amazing!) until an easier angled slab on the right is reached. Stance at apex of slab.

10. 45m 17 Move round right into recess. 10m up this climb out diagonally rightwards and continue up to easy ground and ledges.

Scramble about 75m to the top.

Notes:

1. Gear is bomber on all the hard Pitches

Start right of the water berry tree on the easy steps up and move left to find the first clip on a bulging corner. The next few bolts are fairly steep and technical climbing, followed by a generous rest on a podium after the 5th bolt. Step further left around the slabby corner to climb the arête moving through glossy rock, a series of balancey step ups to a working rest next to a small tree. Now move right through the exposed crux of the route, follow the bolts to the chains.

A direct start has been made to the vertical crack mentioned in pitch 1, by entering its base at grade 22, by C. Lomax and D. Cheesmond in 1980.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Start directly below slab 2m to left of the start of 'Late Breeze' .

1. 40m 22 Move up to the start of the slab where a horizontal crack is encountered, Continue up 4m (20) to another resting spot. (This section is shared with 'Punchline') Then continue straight up avoiding the arete to the hollow block. Move up further rightwards to a jug handhold at the start of the fine horizontal crack. Traverse right 4m (across slab) to the base of the prominent crack line (crux). Climb this to the top exiting slightly left to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 15m 17 Climb directly above the stance to the base of an overhang, pull through the overhang (runner in crack to left). Continue up to the top of the block.

Note: There are various ways to cross from the left side of the slab to the right: a. Hands about 2m below the rail 21/22. b. Hands about 4m below the rail 20. It makes sense to place the nut for the original traverse before down climbing to this height. c. Climb up until hands are about 2-3m above the rail, then traverse right 21. The grades are somewhat reach dependent.

Located in a gully about 20 to 30m upstream of the lower campsite. The route pulls through the overhang at the back of the gully. The gully is about 20-30m downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'.

1. 20m 22 Climb up to and pull through the overhang on the right hand side (crux). Continue up the face to a small tree, then make a tricky traverse to the right for two to three meters. Climb the face above to a stance and scramble to the top.

Note: This climb bites early!

The climb ascends the steep face (downstream facing) to the left (looking up) of the nose directly above the lower campsite i.e. to the left of the climb 'Bonnie'.

1. 20m 22 Climb easy rock up to a good large ledge. Ascend the middle of the steep face avoiding the crack and recess and arete to the right completely. Follow a thin crack line initially up to a rail, then continue up the face to a good ledge where a belay can be made. Climb easily to the top of the crag.

Notes:

1. A fixed peg was placed near the top of the face.

2. Small wires (RPs) were used on the lower section of the face which constitutes the crux.

3. The recess and arete on the right was avoided completely.

Start as for 'Asterisk'.

1. 30m 22 Climb the crack running up the middle of the steep pink wall and continue straight up the face above, moving right onto ledges.

Note: 'The Cruise' follows the line of the aid route 'Asterisk' but finishes more directly.

Start 3m to the left of 'The Dogfather' directly below the overhanging jam crack.

1. 17m 22 A hard move from the left brings you onto good holds below the jam crack. Climb the crack to a belay ledge common with THE 'The Dogfather'.

2. 20m 21 Climb the crack in the right facing open book to a ledge and continue up the centre of the narrow orange face above, exiting to the left just before reaching the tree.

This takes the deep pink recess 3m to the left of 'Gunsight'.

1. 20m 22 Pull up through the overhang and diagonally left into the recess. Up the recess to the overhangs and step right. Continue straight up to a ledge and belay.

2. 20m 22 Directly above is an open book with a crack in its rear and a crack 2m to the right. Climb the right hand crack to a large ledge, and then continue up the open book at the back of the ledge.

The route follows the face between 'Juniper Face' and 'Dassie Route'. It gains a ledge below a prominent overhang about 20m above the base and then surmounts the overhang via a V-groove.

1. 20m 22 Ascend a short face, directly below the prominent overhang to a ledge. Gain the next higher ledge by ascending the steep face via a thin crack to the right of the centre of the face (crux). This variation was done on a top rope by both members of the opening party.

2. 30m 15, A1 Ascend diagonally right to the overhang just below the V-groove. Place piton as high as possible in the groove and use it to move up into the groove and onto the face above the overhang. Continue upward to a large ledge.

3. 40m 13 Continue up face to large ledge.

4. 15m 9 Up easy rock to the top.

Variation 1a. 20m 10 The crux of pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing 3m left and ascending the chimney to a grassy ledge (in common with 'Juniper Face'). Then traverse right for about 3m to a stance in a recess.

Start a few meters downstream of 'Lifebuoy', in a left-facing corner.

1. 15m 22 Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the right hand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right. Easy rock leads to the top.

Climbs the overhanging pink corner to the left of ?

1. [22/23] 20m Climb the awkward corner. Move right at the top. Be careful of wasps.

1. [22] 20m Climb the arête / face to the right of the 'Muffin-Direct' first pitch. Abseil off tree or do second pitch of 'Muffin-Direct'.

Start 3m right of 'Cream Team'.

1. 12m 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.

Takes the break 1 to 2m left of 'Cream Team'. Start 2m left of 'Cream Team' undercut base.

1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.

1. [22] 15m

   Start about 5m to the left of 'Hyperadrenia', under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with 'Donkerhoek Face'.

2. [20] 22m

   As for 'Hyperadrenia'.

The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs immediately right of 'Red Corner', to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.

1. [19] 18m

   The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on 'Red Corner' also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on 'Red Corner'.)

2. 25m 22 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of 'Simian Street'. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.

Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of 'Monkey Music' and 'Pumping Gibbon'. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.

1. [22] 30m Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.

Note:

The protection on this pitch is sparse and unreliable.

Directly below 'Hawk's Eye', the line can be plainly seen. Climb 'Hawk's Eye' as far as the belay below the 13 pitch.

1. [22] 12m

   Climb up right to a tree then hand-traverse left to lip of the roof. Quickly pull through the roof until one can stand in a relatively comfortable position on the wall between the two overhangs. Traverse right and pull into a recess, above which a small but good hanging belay can be made.

2. 25m 19 Step out right and up into the corner. Climb this and finish as for 'Hawk's Eye' direct.

No route description available.

The stepped crack line up the front (stream-side) of the 'Coffin' buttress. Scramble to ledges about 10m up.

1. 25m 22 Step right, climb up to and negotiate the short dihedral (piton). Traverse right, climb the down ward-flaring crack and continue to beneath the final overhangs. Break through on the right, and climb more easily to a stance.

Notes:

1. Scramble to top.

2. 'Alchemy' follows the line of the old aid route 'Rock Spirit'.

1. [22] 40m Climb 40m of capey climbing on excellent rock.

Start just right of the crack / recess. 3 of the bolts were replaced in 2005.

The route is located on the buttress directly opposite to 'Alchemy' and 'Last Rites'.

1. 25m 17 Climb the face directly below the steep wall with a white staining leading down from a set of roofs.

2. 30m 22 Once on the ledge start at the right hand recess (open book) and move up and to the left onto a thin crack system. Move right past a peg up to a set of roofs. Move left to face the roofs and traverse left around the corner to a good belay.

Note: George Mallory straightened the line by going straight up the wall on the arete after the traverse left under the roofs.

Starts directly downstream of the crux of the Help-Help traverse.

1. [22] 15m Start in the right facing recess, climb this and the continuation crack line up the wall.

Climbs the impressive left wall of the 'Short Circuit' corner. Start 2m left of the start of the corner pitch.

1. 35m 22 Up in a slightly left direction to a small cubby. Exit right by short hand traverse to base of recess. Up this and make a difficult move past a peg (placed by another party). Step left to main crack line and climb this strenuously to break. Finish up slab on right.

Climbs the wall to the left of 'Short Circuit' / 'Circuit-Breaker'.

1. 30m 22 Start as for 'Circuit-Breaker' and instead of traversing right, climb 2m up the crack and continue straight up the wall about 3m left of 'Circuit-Breaker'.

1. 20m 22 Start as for 'Iconoclast' . Climb to the cubby hole where two parallel cracks run diagonally up left to the top. Climb these.

Climbs the buttress to the right of Geomancer, up the right hand, downstream facing wall of the deep gully which forms the lower part of Cannon Fodder.

1. [22] XXm

   Climb up the face to the roof and pull through just left of the arete. Up the headwall to a ledge, staying left of the arete. Belay at the tree above the back of the ledge.

2. [18] XXm

   Climb the buttress above the tree.

Situated 8m upstream of the first wade pool encountered downstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Two thin crack lines a few feet apart run up the centre of a steep smooth slab, at the base of which two large trees are growing.

1. 10m 22 Start next to the upstream tree and climb directly up the slab, following the left crack line.

Note:

The protection is thin.

This route starts about 2m to the left of the start of 'Gnasher' at the obvious crack.

1. [19] 23m

   Climb the awkward crack moving left at the top to reach the large belay ledge of 'Gnasher'.

2. [22] 20m

   Above the belay ledge is a vertical wall split by some cracks. Climb the cracks until near the top where a step left can be made to a foot ledge. Pull up on jugs to ledge. A very sustained pitch. Protection is excellent (if you have the strength to put it in).

3. [13] 26m

   Move right from the ledge onto the arete and climb arete to a scoop near the top. Pull over to belay.

Upstream and around the corner from 'Big Dreamers Never Die' . Starts at stream level.

1. [22] 15m Climb the crack.

Starts 10m left (upstream) of 'Diagonal Street'. Scramble up 10m as for 'Diagonal Street', then move left and scramble up onto some blocks below a steep wall with a crack system splitting it.

1. [22] 20m Climb the crack to the top. Belay and abseil off the tree on the ledge.

Climbs the smooth face right of 'Fiona' . There is a bolt about 18m up.

No description!

Climbs the pink face left of 'Hyperion' , starting below the bolt just right of the roof 5m off the ground.

Note: An obvious variation has also been climbed.

1. [22] 15m Climb the arête 3m to the right of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' . A bouldery & poorly protected start leads to easier climbing up to a roof which is passed on the right. Sneaky types may contrive to pre-place some gear from the tree to protect the start.

As one descends into Cedarberg kloof from the normal campsite a short face is visible slightly upstream on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. [22] 20m Climb the break on the right hand side. Climb up a break to a roof, pull through the roof and finish on a sloping mantle.

Climbs the face with 1 bolt 5-10m left of 'Strange Days' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

Turns the roof right of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m Starting right of 'Cedarberg Recess' start, climb the face immediately left of the right arete. From a ledge about 2m below the roof traverse around to the right. Move up to the obvious rail, and rail left to the prow. Pull up past rails to easier rock which is followed to a stance.

Start 6m left of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m

   Ascend a short steep crack to a niche below the overhang (3m). Pull around this, and continue up the crack above (strenuous) to a block, which is surmounted (strenuous). Traverse left 3m and up to a niche (alternatively climb straight up from block). Hand-traverse right, mantelshelf, and climb the crack above ( 'Cedarberg Recess' 15 variation) to a large ledge and belay.

2. [17] 25m

   Move left and up 3m then swing up onto the arete using sharp hold and into the base of a groove. Ascend the groove and then an awkward move out left below the overhang, then up a bulge and right to the top.

Climbs the diagonally right trending crack-line/seam out of the cave.

The obvious crack up the left wall of BUTTERFLY. Scramble up to a stance at the base of a short recess a few metres below and to the right of the crack.

1. 25m 22 Climb up a few metres and traverse left into the base of the crack. Climb the crack and exit right near the top. From the ledge (on BUTTERFLY), traverse left across the face to the arete, and climb this to the summit.

Opposite SLIPSTREAM, and further upstream, is a rock buttress with two large, triangular roofs. IRON SOUL climbs a steep buttress to the left of these roofs. TWILIGHT OF IDOLS climbs a roof with a jam-crack between the steep buttress and the twin roofs.

1. 35m 22,A1 Climb up a short corner directly below the jam crack in the roof and traverse right for 2m. Continue up the recess above (there is a tree root growing diagonally right across the face) and climb through the 2m roof. Continue to top.

Approximately 50m upstream from DOGSTYLE, on the same side of the kloof, an open book may be seen above a large grassy ledge. The route follows the open book and layback crack above to a ledge, then ascends a second open book to top.

1. 22m 22 Scramble/traverse to grassy ledge 10m above stream level. From the grassy ledge chimney or straddle up open book, passing a small bulge, to reach more positive holds above. Ascend crack to ledge with a small tree belay.

2. 40m 11 From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.

Climbs the corner 5m upstream from DOGSTYLE.

1. 30m 22 Climb the corner.

Climbs the steep rock on the right of the dry waterfall (i.e. Left of AUTHUR SCARGILL'S HAIRPEICE).

1. 18m 22 Climb straight up to a peg and a bolt. Move up and right from the bolt and traverse left above bolt into the recess. Follow the recess to the top. Abseil off tree for descent.

Climbs the front of the pinnacle climbed by NOTHING SUCKS LIKE ELECTROLUX. Start on a ledge in front of the pinnacle (stream side) to the left of that route.

1. 25m 22 Climb up the front of the pinnacle to a ledge below the left hand side of a steep wall. Climb straight up the left hand edge of the wall (poor gear, crux RP1 preplaced) and up the arête to a cubby hole with a tree. Move right and climb the steep face to an easy crack which is followed to the top.

The route takes the left-hand of three finger-cracks in the pink, slightly impending wall between ERECTILE PROJECTILE and CUT ACROSS SHORTY. Start from the grey ledge, 2m above and to the left of CUT ACROSS SHORTY. [E – 13]

1. 15m 22 Ascend the stepped rock to directly below the crack. Gain the pod-shaped crack from the right and continue up the finger-crack above. Belay on the tree.

2. 17m 13 Follow the obvious corner to the top. (The left-hand, harder line through the overhangs leads into loose rock.)

Note: Pitch 1 provides superb technical climbing.

This climb starts on the lower buttress below BAKED BEEN. It ascends a steep face 5m downstream of CROOKED CRACK and 1m downstream of a prominent open book with a tree growing close to it.

1. 25m 22 Climb up the face starting on the left-hand side and moving right into the centre of the face when a good rail is reached. From the rail continue upwards and slightly rightwards (crux) to easier ground. Climb up to a good ledge. Climb a small overhanging crack above the ledge and to the left. Scramble up easier rock to a large ledge and tree belay.

Note: Top rope inspection undertaken. Initially led with a rest at the rail, but later led in good style.

1. 15m 22 Start 3m left of BLINDFAITH on the good looking wall at the kloof entrance, by a tall thin tree. Climb 3m and place small nuts above and to the right of a solid, but loose looking block (RP's). Move left onto small holds and then up (crux) to a block 5m higher up. As a ground fall is possible (even before one reaches the block), reach back and place a sling in the tree. Climb to the top. Note:

2. Gear is not plentiful.

Takes the break up the centre of the wall behind ISOLATION PINNACLE.

1. 15m 22 Climb up to and negotiate the relatively featureless corner (crux) before climbing the finger crack and continuation off-width crack in the dihedral above.

Starts on same ledge as GOOFPROOF ROOF, 10m to the right of GOOFPROOF ROOF where the overhang is at its biggest (small cairn).

1. 15m 22 Jump for hand hold on wall on right, and pull up on jugs until face level with roof. A vague rail enables you to move left to very good jugs at the lip. A long snatch for holds high above the roof, followed by an easy open book above up to ledge with small tree belay. Scramble off up to the left at grade 17.

Note: A #1 friend is useful for protection at the lip of the roof.

Start 5m left of HYDRA just before the head of the PHOENIX subkloof.

1. 20m 22 Climb the layback type crack, past a peg at 4m to a block (crux). Move slightly left and up onto easier rock ending just right of the large roof.

Note: This route was kindly prepared by S Kelsey. Perhaps "Steel" should read "Steal".

Situated on the true right wall of SLAB GULLY in lower Grootkloof. The route follows a brunt arete/groove about 7m right of WINGS and CHINA GIRL. Start just left and above a small tree.

1. 25m 22 Crank up a steep wall past two poor pegs to a ledge. Step right onto an undercut red wall and follow this to and pull through a small overlap to the top.

The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite GABOOM. Start 8m downstream of KLOOF DESCENT group of large boulders.

1. 30m 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.

2. 10m 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.

Note: Which pitch is the catch?

This route is the right hand of three cracks on a buttress about 100m downstream of THE FINAL CUT but on the true right. The buttress is at the top of the kloof. The route takes an off-width-looking crack and is discernable from the river. Approach from the top.

1. 15m 22 Easily up to the roof. Pull through and continue up the crack.

A clean hard pitch, similar to SCHWEESICLES. The line followed is a crack on the opposite side of the kloof and 5m upstream from STRAIGHT EDGE.

1. 40m 22 From stream bed gain a large handhold on the left. Pull up into the recess, pass a dying tree to the right and continue up the crack right up to the large ledge.

Between JELLYBEANS and SCHWEESICLES on the same side of the kloof. Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 25m 22 Up crack until handrail is reached. Right along rail to arete. Step up and continue up corner until next rail. Back left to finger crack. Up crack to top.

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 25m 22 Climb straight up the open book forming the left hadn side of the recess and through the roof to the ledge with a tree.

Takes the crack line between THE FILE and UNKNOWN PLEASURES. A long pitch giving surprisingly good climbing. Starts midway between the two above-mentioned routes.

1. 35m 22 Climb ledges to base of chimney/gully and then step left to gain the crack. Hard moves (protected by 2 pegs) to gain large layback flake, and then to small cubby. Awkward moves leaving this and then continue more easily following crack/groove line to tree belay.

Ascends the flake crack 4m left of RASP.

1. 25m 22 Fingery laybacking to slight break. Move right to shake-out rest at keyed-in block. Layback flared crack above to the RASP stance.

Use either the face or the arête to start. Shares the chains with REFLECTED SINS.

Located about 40m downstream from the top of the upper area on the true left. The route starts just left of massive overhangs (piton can be seen in small rail just below the overhangs)

1. 23m 21 Start on a jammed block in the river, gain access to a big jug just to the left of a crack with a layback/dyno move, once you gain the crack, climb it to the overhangs above and move left out to recess with two cracks, climb the left crack to a ledge with a tree on it.

2. 15m 15 Climb the finger crack on the right hand side of the ledge, follow the crack to an awkward move involving a handjam, this takes you into a chimney with a big triangular block above it, climb out of this to a larger sloping ledge.

3. 40m 22 Above the triangular block is a jam crack that break through the slightly overhanging wall almost to the top, climb this until the crack disappears following as straight line to the top as possible. The protection is great all the way through this route, many nuts are very handy for the last pitch.

Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.

Left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. Technical thin climbing to arete. End on same face as SCTM, stay left. Has its own anchors.

Starts just right of the tree at the base.

FROM STANCE 3M LEFT OF FLAT SPIN

On the right of the grey face is a short face with a 1m overhang. Start left and move right from undercut and onto slab. Chains at top.

In the corner, right of The flayed man. Start up the slope after the tree to the chains after the roof.

Start on the slab and follow the bolts on the main head wall traversing slightly right through the small roof crack system and on to the top face . Perma-draw top anchors. 60m rope required.

21 From the tree, 22 Direct start.

Climb straight up the centre of the face on exceptionally small holds. The crux being just after a move left is a pull-up on a rounded, small finger hold. Keep to the left as you approach the top.

Climb the steep (overhanging) face straight to the top. Avoid the ledge on the left. The route is sustained.

Find the small and deep overhang. Start here, reach above this overhang and crank the jug. Keep on the front of the buttress to the top.