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Deadwood

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Description

A large sandstone boulder between Newlands Forest and Kirstenbosch Research Centre. It is located in a green belt in a residential area. Please be respectful of residents in the area and keep noise to a minimum.

Access issues inherited from Table Mountain

There is an entrance fee to Kirstenbosch.

A permit is required to access Orange Kloof.

Approach

Best approached from Upper Thistle Ave. via Cherry Street. Follow the path through ferns and head up in the direction of the mountain, weaving between large gum trees. When the path veers right, the boulder will come into view straight ahead. It is a 3min. walk from the parking spot to the boulder.

Ethic inherited from Table Mountain

No bolting.

History

History timeline chart

Developed around 2007

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow.

Sit start with both hands on good edge. LH to arête, RH to sloper. Throw for good rail. TO

Low SS with LH on small layaway and RH on good layaway, climb to TO.

Climb Hip Hip Chin Chin, but trav L along the lip to TO as for Xibalba

Start as for Hip Hip Chin Chin, climb L to finish as for Xibalba

Video here

Start with LH in crack and RH on pointed hold. Move right on slopers to good jugs. Big move up and left to catch sidepull. TO.

SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin

Start as for Hip Hip Chin Chin. Once at jugs, RH up to sloper on arête (good holds on the other side of the arete are off), LH to bad pinch just under the lip. Once the lip is gained, traverse slightly left to TO.

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

SS then match on slopey jug, then climb diag R to TO as for Scissor Fight

Sit start with BH on good hold in rail. Move left on diagonal rail on slopers. TO.

Video here

Start as for Snail Trail, but move straight up via poor slopers to TO.

Start as for Snail Trail / Scissor Fight, but move up and right to TO via slopers.

Climb Another Winner (Variation 1) to the rail, then downclimb Snail Trail to join Overconfidence

Start on the far R, trav L using holds on or below the lip to TO as for Scissor Fight

This boulder is a bit of an eliminate/training boulder, with many routes that start/end at alternative positions or have some holds "eliminated" from the problem to make it harder. To avoid cluttering the main topo, variations are added below.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but none of the original routes start lower than Hip Hip Chin Chin (BH on the vertical crack). There is chalk low in the cave and I have heard of variations starting lower.

Add your variations here.

Start as Accidentally Overlooked but trav left to TO as for Xibalba

Start as Hip Hip Chin Chin, move right into and top out as for Accidentally Overlooked

Start as Hip Hip Chin Chin, move right into Accidentally Overlooked, top out as for Xibalba

Start as Accidentally Overlooked and pull over the lip off the slopes as for Compression Session. No eliminations.

Start as for Accidentally Overlooked and top out as for Compression Session. Don't use any of the holds to the right of the arete - only the sloper at the top of the arete is in.

Start as for Accidentally Overlooked and top out as for Compression Session. Don't use any of the holds to the right of the arete - only the good sloper to the left of the big jug is in).

Start as for Hip Hip Chin Chin then climb Another Winner

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