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Africa Crag Nose

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 33

Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

https://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-2

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 7 weeks ago

Seasonality

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F
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A
M
J
J
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S
O
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D

Access issues inherited from Table Mountain

There is an entrance fee to Kirstenbosch.

A permit is required to access Orange Kloof.

Ethic inherited from Table Mountain

Strictly trad area, bolting is illegal.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 15 12m
2 14 26m
3 16 35m
4 17 12m
5 12 20m
6 10 15m

FA: J. Goedknegt & K.D. Fletcher, 1961

1 21 25m
2 21 30m

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

Start: The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

  1. [21] 25m Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

  2. [21] 30m Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

FA: C. Edelstein, 2007

FA: J. Fisher, 1990

1 19 12m
2 20 20m
3 16 20m
4 17 25m
5 22 25m

FFA: A. Forsyth, M. Scott & R. Barley, 1979

FA: R. Smithers & R. Barley, 1979

1 18/19 30m
2 24 15m

A direct line, with a short but powerful and technical crux in a great position. The easier finish makes for a good, consistent route up the wall.

  1. 30m (18/19) Start as for Odd Shouters Outing P3 from Upper Africa ledge but continue up the middle of the face between Hole in my Sole and Odd Shouters, passing a large grass tuft (at the base of the wide crack) by climbing the face to left. From the next ledge, continue up and slightly left to just underneath the pivoting block on Gullet. Pull through about ~1m right of this and then step left to stance on the ramp and blocks to the left.

  2. 15m (24) Move up and left to follow a short, blunt arête to a small ledge. Step right to the pegs on Odd Shouters and then straight up, just to the right of the pegs, to the roof via some cool sequences. There is a bomber #1 and #2 Peenut in a narrow horizontal rail just right of the pegs. At the roof traverse, 1m left and then pull through the left end of the roof onto good holds and easy climbing to the large ledge above. Consensus grading needed.

An alternate finish (16) moves left along the ledge from the pegs and follows good holds on the vague arête and then up to the big ledge. Walk left and finish up Africa Crag.

Lower sections of this route have likely been climbed before as linkages between other routes, and at least one party has tried the crux section above the pegs.

FA: R. Halsey & G. Bird, Mar 2018

A long, sustained pitch with a variety of trickiness. A tad heady in places. Start just right of the Gullet crack.

Pull up onto the centre of the face to the right of the Gullet crack. Continue up to below the blank looking section, at the base of vague, wide U shape formed by sloping ramps. Head straight up the middle of the face to a rail. (Flaky Dog P1 is to your left, and there is a very narrow horizontal break for micro nuts). Continue up the centre of the wall via difficult moves past an undercling to a wide rail. Pull out and right over the next overlap and then tend left to another cryptic bulge. Pull through the next steep section to below a sandy recess, which is avoided by pulling up left to a layback crack in the grey face. Follow this to join the crack on Oudshouters, and finish through the roof crux on that route. Traverse off left and easily out to top (end of Africa Crag). Consensus grading needed, might be a tad harder.

FA: R. Halsey, 2017

1 15 25m
2 11 28m
3 10 23m
4 13 36m
5 12 20m
6 15m

P1 & 2 can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Africa Wall, bringing the grade down to 13.

FA: A. Cameron, B. Cameron, E. Grendon, A. Sluman, S. Smith & D. van Breda, 1936

1 22 35m
2 24 20m
3 20 25m

FA: H. Davies & G. Paterson-Jones, 26 Dec 2015

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