Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
CBD Bouldering The Terrace Circus Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B | Starfish Aliens Ambush
Sitstart. LH on a small slopey edge, RH on a big slopey edge. RH to a pinch above the lip, then move out left to a small dish on the lip. TO up the slab. | 2m | |||
{FB} 5B | ★ Atlas' Heavy Burden
Sitstart on a big ledge to the right of Starfish Aliens Ambush. TO direct. | 2m | |||
CBD Bouldering Bright Lights Warmup Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B | ★ Dart
Standing Start, right hand in pocket, left hand in rail. Climb along the right hand crack and top out. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | ||||
{FB} 5B | ★ P. L. Traverse
Standing Start, Both hands on jugs. Traverse right along the face of the boulder and top out at the end. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Bright Lights Purgatory Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | ★★ This Call is for You: It's Your Life Calling
Sit down start on the face, which faces the city. Traverse low to the right until you can break up the slopey rail on the face orientated towards Lions Head. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Bright Lights Below the Lights | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Unkown 1
FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Bright Lights Under Below the Lights | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Like a Mini Big Boulder
Climb up below the little roof and TO over the roof | ||||
CBD Bouldering Bright Lights Anarchy in the USA | |||||
FB:5B - C+ | Severance
Sit start on the lowest holds and climb up and then left on slab FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Training Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | Last Train to Lhasa
Sitstart and climb tending leftward to TO. FA: S. Koehorst, 1998 | 3m | |||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Northern Exosure
Sitstart and climb straight through FA: S. Koehorst, 1999 | 3m | |||
FB:5B - C+ | Wrong Start
stand start to right of grafiti | ||||
CBD Bouldering Schadenfreude Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | ★ Schadenfreude Warmup
Sitstart, climbing the left leaning arête to warmup. FA: S. Koehorst, 1998 | 3m | |||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park River Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | No Time for Nostalgia
Sit start with a low left hand on good hold and climb the corner to top out FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Surprise Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5 | Various 5s
| ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Blackened Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | Firewall
| ||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | Barren Land
| ||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Firestarter
climb up overhanging arete | ||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Careless Tourist
| ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Low Seam Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Camelthorn
| ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park City Vista Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | City Silhouette
Sitstart. Traverse the lip from L to R. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1996 | 3m | |||
{FB} 5B - C+ | City Straight Up
Sitstart. Follow the obvious seam and TO. FA: Steve Koehorst, 1994 | 3m | |||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Hamstrung Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Hamstrung
FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | ||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Middle Face
FA: Steve Koehorst, 1998 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Tree Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Tree Time is at Three
Sitstart on small hold just right of the sloper on the arete. bump LH to the sloper and pull up to the sloper directly above for the TO. FA: S. Koehorst, 1997 | 3m | |||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Traverse on the Lip
Start as for Zep, but move right almost immediately to traverse around to the right, staying high above the final roof to TO. FA: S. Koehorst, 1998 | 4m | |||
{FB} 5B | ★★ The Reason for the Edge
Start as for The Edge of Reason. Move up and left via good edges to TO. (Note: starting flake is delicate, please take care not to break it). FA: N. Mostert | 4m | |||
{FB} 5B | ★ Treeless
Sadly the tree boulder has lost its tree. This route is a memorial to the tree lost. Start on Zap and move right climbing above the stump of the missing tree FA: Andre Le Roux, 31 Jul 2021 | ||||
CBD Bouldering Deer Park Split Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | ★★ Glass
| 3m | |||
CBD Bouldering | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | ★ Macaroni Bolognaise
| ||||
Cecilia Forest Beginner Boulder | |||||
FB:5A - B | ★ Route 2
Sit start on the arete right of the arrow. Left hand on undercling, right hand on lower layaway. Bump right hand to better layaway then left hand to the top. Top out. | ||||
Cecilia Forest The Den | |||||
FB:5A - B | Left of Coheed
Stand start left of Coheed. RH in slopey two-finger pocket, climb the slab. Large ledge just above the right is off | ||||
FB:5A - B | Coheed
Stand-start with LH on a good incut grip and climb straight up the slab and jugs. FA: Nic Schwerdtfeger | ||||
Constantia Nek Forest Boulder B | |||||
{FB} 5 | ★★ 1
SS on good holds and mantle to TO. | ||||
Devil's Peak Breathless Boulder | |||||
FB:5B | Umlindi Sit
| ||||
Glen Beach High Tide | |||||
FB:5A - B | High Tide (short)
Climb up the right side of the arete to the crack for the finish | ||||
Higgovale Quarry The Polling Booth | |||||
21 | ★ Mandela Magic Direct
| 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Another Nefarious Crack
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 7 | |||
21 | ★ Trikonasana Variation
Keep left of the arete on Poppies Route FA: K. Botha, 2011 | 13m, 5 | |||
Ledges Silverstream Ravine Silverstream Lower | |||||
21 | ★★ Squeakzilla
Fiesty start (need tiny cams), then lekker to top. FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Dec 2020 | ||||
Ledges Silverstream Ravine Five Sixteen Crag | |||||
21 | ★★ Wriggle Worm
Start is harder if you are short. FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate | 20m | |||
Llandudno Beach The Egg Sector C: Conspicuous Consumption | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | Naatkop
Sit-start and head up the crack feature. | ||||
{FB} 5B - C+ | Klipkop
Start as for Naatkop, this time following a crack branching up right. | ||||
Llandudno Beach The Egg Sector E: Walking on Air | |||||
{FB} 5A - B+ | ★★ Alpenrösli
Start on the north side of the fat boulder. Stand start, climb the dark slab almost on the corner of the boulder FA: M.Stutz, 2010 | 3m | |||
Llandudno Beach The Egg Sector R: Fonteinblueass | |||||
{FB} 5A - B | Grey Beats Orange
Stand start and climb the scooped out face. | ||||
Llandudno Beach Q: Friends in High Places | |||||
{FB} 5B | Running Man Standard
Stand start, climb the obvious centre slab line; or alternatively from a running start without hands! FA: Joe Möhle, 2004 | ||||
Llandudno Beach O: The Badger | |||||
{FB} 5B | Sweet Reggae Music
Sit-start and climb the corner crack. | ||||
Llandudno Beach U: Friendly Giant | |||||
{FB} 5A - B | Friendly Giant
Clamber up the large crack feature. | ||||
Llandudno Beach The Gat O: Hand of Fate | |||||
{FB} 5A - B | Trebuchet
Hang start up on the lower rail on the corner FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | ||||
Llandudno Beach The Gat X: Don't Be a Knob | |||||
{FB} 5A - B | Unnamed Slab
Climb the flake / slab. | ||||
Lower Buttresses Arrow Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Handy Fox
1
15
2
21
FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Jun 2020 | 2 | |||
Lower Buttresses Venster Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Wind Me Up
FA: J. Wamsteker & J. Orton, 2000 | 15m | |||
21 | Finality
FA: Richard Halsey, Mar 2019 | 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Bubbles and Brew
FA: Richard Halsey, Mar 2018 | 38m | |||
Newlands Forest Deadwood | |||||
FB:5A - B | ★ Mike's Traverse
Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow. | ||||
FB:5A - C+ | ★ Accidentally Overlooked
SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin | ||||
Newlands Forest TDA Boulder | |||||
{FB} 5B | Lance
FA: 2000 | 3m | |||
Newlands Forest The Classroom | |||||
FB:5A - B | U9 Girls Basketball
Jump-start to the hollow then same TO as U19 Girls Basketball. | ||||
Newlands Forest Big Rock Boulder B | |||||
FB:5A - C+ | B1
SS and climb the crimps to TO. | ||||
Newlands Forest Pandemic Boulder | |||||
FB:5A - B | Living At Work
Stand and climb the slab. FA: Robyn Holwill, 2020 | ||||
FB:5A - B | Making Up The Numbers
Stand with slopey holds chest height and then climb arete/prow FA: Robyn Holwill, 2020 | ||||
FB:5A - B | Herd Immunity
Sit, move up arete and finish up the slab. Previous description which was slightly contradictory read: "Sit up to crimp then finish on the left" FA: Guy Holwill, 2021 | ||||
Newlands Forest Jungle Gym Big Butts & Epic Jugs | |||||
FB:5A - B | Big Butts & Epic Jugs
| ||||
Newlands Forest Jungle Gym Jungle Gym | |||||
FB:5A - B | The Infinite Mind
Sit-start with left hand high on a sidepull and right hand on a low incut crimp, top-out direct. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | ||||
Newlands Forest Jungle Gym Smooth Criminal | |||||
FB:5A - B | Smooth Criminal
Sit-start with left hand on the arête and right hand on an edge. FA: Scott Noy, 2007 | ||||
Newlands Forest Broken Boulder | |||||
FB:5A - B | Raisins
| ||||
FB:5A - B | Seized Sailors
| ||||
Newlands Forest Moss Master | |||||
FB:5A - B | Angry Moss
| ||||
FB:5A - B | The Hunted
| ||||
Newlands Forest Leftfield Leftfield | |||||
FB:5A - B | Unnamed Arête
Sit-start high on a layaway and climb straight up the arête. | ||||
Newlands Forest Leftfield Little Bleau | |||||
FB:5A - B | Ain't No Other
Sit-start with left hand on a large pocket and right hand on a large sidepull. FA: Scott Noy, 2007 | ||||
Newlands Forest Hillywood | |||||
FB:5A - B | Celebrity Arête
| ||||
FB:5A - B | Jerry Springer
| ||||
Nursery Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Buccaneer
1
17
15m
2
19
12m
3
20
20m
4
21
18m
5
19
18m
6
19
15m
FA: B. Gross, C.Lomax & G. Lacey, 1977 | 98m, 6 | |||
The Apostles Barrier Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Persona non Grata
1
21
15m
2
21
25m
3
19
22m
4
16
15m
5
17
25m
A Direct line up the clean top faces between Barrier and Walk Over. Start: from the right hand side of the light grey face about 10m right of Sandwich, or just left of the scramble to the base of Frontal.
FA: T. Dick & D. Cheesmond, 1977 FFA: A. de Klerk & R. Hess, 1981 | 100m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Mountain Bokkie
Varied line to the top of the crag. Head straight up and left into a small recess. Pull around this and up and left to the big ledge. Pull onto the upper tier and follow the line of least resistance up and left to the top. FA: Richard Halsey & S. Nightingale, Jul 2018 | ||||
The Apostles Kasteel Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Kdonk-adonk
1
21
30m
2
19
20m
FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Nov 2020 | 50m, 2 | |||
The Apostles Postern Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Hot Dogger
1
19
27m
2
19
18m
3
19
26m
4
20
18m
5
21
11m
6
10
14m
7
14
25m
"A frightening series of desperate pitches, technical and ridiculously strenuous." (MCSA guide 1978). Start: From the left hand end of a flat slab of rock just right of the drip at Postern Cave.
FA: A.G. Chinery, D. Hartley & R. Williams, 1976 | 140m, 7 | |||
The Apostles Spring Buttress | |||||
21 | Deucalion
Pull up to a rail (#4 Camalot useful) and then up two narrow corners to a small roof. Pull through and then follow the right side of the arete until just before the top, where you step left and then top out. FA: Richard Halsey & A. Hall, 20 Jul 2014 | ||||
21 | Night Quills
Follows the break and vertical cracks up to, and through, the roof on the left of the crag. FA: Richard Halsey & D. Steyn, 8 Sep 2014 | ||||
21 | Shield of Damocles
Start as for Leaf Cycle, but branch off right just before the first fist sized rail. Head up and right break through the steep face, then up yellow rock to crank through the wide vertical crack splitting the top roof. Straight up to top. Warning: just left of the last section of this crack is a large hollow sounding shield on the face (Marked with X on topo - probably best not to use it, and you do not need it). FA: Richard Halsey & D. Steyn, 8 Sep 2014 | ||||
21 | ★★★ The Long Rhodes to Freedom
1
16
18m
2
21
20m
What a gem!
FA: Warren Gans, S. Cunnane & C. Bagley, Mar 2015 | 38m, 2 | |||
The Apostles Slangolie Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Cobra Route
| 200m | |||
The Apostles Slangolie Buttress Snake-oil Battlegrounds | |||||
21 | ★★★ Spring Offensive
Just right of a hanging blunt nose is a rounded sheet on the wall- great chicken eating spot. Convince your feet up, then take the fault to the top of the crag. Great Pro. FA: Warren Gans, 2014 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ The Red Baron
An improbable looking line for the grade. The route takes a steep launch off the ground to the ledge, then a line series of thin moves to the top, punctuated by a large "Thank God" rest on top of a big flake (NOTE: the flake has since fallen off the face). Doesn't take gear larger than BD#0.75. Strong contender for the best line on the buttress so far. FA: S. Cunnane, 5 Jul 2015 | 27m | |||
21 | ★★ The Red Baron (Right)
Same start as route above, only taking the right fork. It shares a rest at the top of the flake. Exciting finish. FA: S. Cunnane, 5 Jul 2015 | 27m | |||
The Apostles Corridor Buttress | |||||
21 | Escape from Good Fortune
Takes a diagonal break passing the left side of the larger roof on the right side of the crag. Tricky move near the top. FA: Warren Gans, Oct 2015 | ||||
The Apostles Sea Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★★ Ironborn
Start about 10m left of the CC. Climb the recess, and swing left into some wild roofs. Continue up to the triangle-cut overhang, and turn it on the right. FA: A. Hall & M. Penso, 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★ Tigris
Take the crack thru the stripes! Share a few moves with Euphrates at the bottom before breaking away and climbing the stripes. FA: Warren Gans & L. Eberhard, Jun 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Breeding Ground
1
17
20m
2
19
20m
3
21
20m
4
19
30m
A great, sustained route with a fantastically exposed 3rd pitch that requires a confident leader.
FA: Warren Gans & Richard Halsey, Aug 2016 | 90m, 4 | |||
The Glen The Shire | |||||
{FB} 5 | Frodo
Start on good hold and move up the slab on beautiful pockets FA: Cuan Lohrentz, 5 May 2018 | ||||
The Ledge Fountain Ledge | |||||
21 | ★★★ Farewell to Arms
1
19
20m
2
21
20m
3
21
10m
4
21
25m
FA: A. Davies & D. Cheesmond, 1978 | 75m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Triple Indirect
1
20
25m
2
16
17m
3
21
25m
4
19
35m
FA: Charles Edelstein & K. Smith, 1978 | 100m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ The Cruise
1
20
30m
2
21
30m
FA: D. Davies & J. Fisher, 1986 | 60m, 2 | |||
21 | Last Cruise
1
21
20m
2
21
40m
A nice link-up, that potentially has some new climbing.
FA: Richard Halsey & J. Wakeling, Oct 2018 | 60m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★★ The Dream
1
19
20m
2
21
40m
FA: D. Davies, D. Kelfkins & G. Lacey, 1979 | 60m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ La Vida
1
18
12m
2
21
17m
3
19
10m
4
18
8m
5
20
30m
Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.
Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station. FA: B. Daniel & Hilton Davies, 2009 | 77m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Roulette
1
16
23m
2
20
20m
3
20
10m
4
21
23m
5
16
40m
FA: A Barley, R Barley, D Hartley & M Scott, 1969 | 120m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Boltergeist
1
21
40m
2
16
20m
3
21
23m
FA: M Scott + H Graafland, A McKirdy & G Young, 1978 | 83m, 3 | |||
21 | Fountain Fandango
1
18
15m
2
21
35m
3
16
35m
FA: B. Daniel & Hilton Davies, 2009 | 85m, 3 | |||
21 | Fountain Reach-Up
1
15
2
21
3
10
FFA: B. Smith & C. Philips FA: R. Smithers & B. de Villiers, 1970 | 3 |