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Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Scramble up the black rock to the right-hand end of a large ledge below the orange rock in the deep recess. Step right onto the face and pull up past two rails to a ledge on the right. From the left side of the ledge, move up to a rail, step right and up a thin crack to the split block abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Mar 2013

This superb single pitch follows a steep, straight line directly below the abseil point on The Optimist (which is from a large split block 25m up on a ledge). Would be 5 stars if it weren't for the rest ledge.

Scramble up to the top of a conical pillar. Pull up to underclings in the roof above the short, smooth face. Make hard moves right and around the roof onto a wedged block. Pull up and left to good pockets below a curved finger crack through a bulge. Once over the bulge, climb dead straight to the abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Mar 2013

Another superb single pitch. Steep and intimidating with excellent moves and just enough gear.

From the path, start up the right of the conical pillar. After a few meters, make hard moves right onto the fin. Continue up the steep prow, to a horizontal line of pockets. Move 1m left then up and right to a small platform. Continue straight up the face and recess to the ledge with an abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

FA: R. Halsey, 2015

This single pitch climbs a rising diagonal line, starting at the rock arch 10m right of Optimist Prime and ending at the same anchors as that route.

Climb up past the right side of the arch. Climb a short orange wall to a rail. Some tricky moves left lead up to a ledge. Using pockets, move up to a wide rail, where you head left around the arete. Climb straight up to the ledge where the abseil point is located. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Nov 2014

FA: E. February & A. de Klerk

1 17 30m
2 13 20m
3 20 30m
4 12 20m

FA: M. Scott & P. Fatti, 1970

FFA: E. February, 1978

1 20 40m
2 19 40m

FA: J. Orton

FA: R. Behne

1 26 15m
2 25 35m
3 18 15m

Amandla! Great stuff. Start about 20m right of Big Groove P1, on some boulders below an obvious V in the roof above.

  1. 15 m (26) The Bugger pitch. Climb the left tending crack to a triangular platform. Move up to the roof and fight your way through the V-shaped break. Climb a few meters further to the blocky ledge and stance several meters left below the two cracks about 1.5m apart.

  2. 35 m (25) The Super pitch. Climb the two left tending cracks on each side of a rib to a small roof. Crank through the bulge on the left side of the roof (crux) and up, to gain a narrow ledge with a half-moon shaped feature in the middle. More tricky moves on the short face to the left of the half-moon lead you to a large layback flake and crack system above. Stance in a corner below a triangular roof.

  3. 15m (18) The Victory lap. Traverse right and slightly up to the huge flake feature on the right of the wall. Climb up this and the interesting shapes above until you can traverse right below a large rectangular block. Move up and left to exit via a chimney to the top. Note: Two micro cams (black alien or equivalent) are useful. One to protect each of the crux sections on pitch 2. If you are not up to the challenge of pitch 1 or don't what to be completely exhausted for the rest of the route, you can access the excellent second pitch from Big Groove.

FA: R. Halsey & J. Möhle, Nov 2011

FA: M. Versfeld & H. Wood, 1930

FA: K. Fletcher, J. Goedkneght & R. Raad, 1961

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