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Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 22 50m
2 19 25m

Below the Black Ice route is a trapezoid (triangle with a flat top) shaped roof. Start on the left side of this.

  1. 50 m (22) Climb up 2m to the wide rail under the roof (a friend size 4 or bigger is useful, but not essential), move out leftwards around the corner and continue railing for about 2m (strenuous) before thin feet allow you to climb onto the narrow ledge. Alternatively, do a harder (a grade or two) move in the recess at the start of the narrow ledge. From the ledge, continue for about 15m at grade 19 up to a tiny triangular belay ledge just up and right from a small right-facing red corner.

  2. 25 m (19) Continue climbing straight up, doing a stretchy move for a good hold to get through the blank rock band and continue upwards aiming for the rightward trending layback flake just next to the abseil point.

FA: U. Pitsch & R. Zipplies, 1 Jan 2012

1 19 35m
2 19 35m

FA: C. Edelstein & K. Smith, 1983

1 19 20m
2 21 15m
3 19 20m

FA: L. Rust & T. Firman, 2007

1 22 30m
2 20 20m

FA: A. Roff & L. Rust, 1998

1 22 30m
2 18 30m

FA: D. Shewell, A. Wood & M. le Roux, 1989

1 23 30m
2 18 35m

FA: A. de Klerk & D. Shewell, 1986

FA: E. February & J. Fisher, 1988

1 15 10m
2 17 30m
3 18 15m
4 12 30m

FA: K. Fletcher & D. Hartley, 1968

FA: E. February & T. Versfeld, 1992

1 15 20m
2 23 35m
3 19 30m

FA: G. Mallory & C. Curson, 1987

1 20 35m
2 11 25m

Traverse to the right for 40m along an exposed ledge/dassie ledge and make a stance. The climb officially starts from this point.

FA: C. Lomax & K. Smith, 1983

1 18 36m
2 21 45m

FA: A. de Klerk & A. Forsyth, 1986

1 17 30m
2 23 30m

FA: A. de Klerk, S. Bradshaw & A. Jardin, 1984

1 18 20m
2 21 15m

FA: C. Curson & G. Mallory, 1987

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