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Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 19 11m
2 16 20m
3 12 50m

FA: K. Fletcher & D. Hartley, 1975

1 18 10m
2 17 15m
3 11 15m
4 14 10m

FA: M. Scott & D. Hartley, 1975

FFA: B. Bransby, 1998

FA: R. Suter & L. Rust, 1998

FFA: D. Birkett, 1998

FA: L. Rust & R. Suter, 1998

FA: D. Birkett, 2004

FA: D. Birkett, 2008

1 25 35m
2 22 22m

FA: T. Versfeld & R. Suter, 1998

1 25 35m
2 24 20m

FA: T. Versfeld & S. Meyers, 1998

1 28 30m
2 23 20m

FA: D. Birkett & T. Versfeld, 1998

FA: L. Rust, 1998

Features a committing rising traverse and a grand finale through the roof.

Scramble up the left side of the large block left of Lord Foul's Bane. Pull onto the steep face and slightly left to a vertical crack (on the left side of a small roof). Move up to a depression where you can more or less stand. Fiddle in some small gear and then make a scary traverse left on a good edge with sloping footholds. Pull up to the next rail, traverse another meter or so left and pull up to another rail. Continue left on a good foot ledge until it terminates. Long slings useful on the traverse. At this point, there is a large roof above and to the left. Make a bold move up to the large under cling, move left over the roof using a projecting block, and then slightly left and up to a rail below the final roof. Crank and mantle over the roof and then easily up and left to belay at the left side of the large cave.

(Technically only about grade 22, but the route grade takes into account the overall difficultly and run-out nature of some sections)

FA: R. Halsey & U. Pitsch, 13 Feb 2012

1 20 20m
2 22 30m

FA: A. de Klerk & A Forsyth, 1986

1 21 20m
2 17 30m

FA: A. de Klerk & J. Sydow, 1985

1 22 20m
2 17 30m

FA: M Versveld, E. February & T. Versfeld, 1984

A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.

50 m (22) Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2011

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