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Created about a year ago - Edited 8 weeks ago

Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 10 20m
2 11 20m
3 14 28m
4 11 30m
5 13 30m

FA: H. Snijders & M. Kotze, 1962

1 11 20m
2 8 10m
3 16 25m
4 8 25m
5 12 30m
6 16 15m

FA: R. Baillie & C. Sinclair-Smith, 1960

1 20 10m
2 17 25m
3 17 45m
4 16 20m

FA: C. Edelstein, E. February & S. Bradshaw

1 17 10m
2 17 25m
3 17 45m
4 16 20m

FA: C. Edelstein & E. February, 1983

1 22 20m
2 20 20m
3 18 40m

Features a strenuous start followed by a good mix of climbing styles. Start in the same place as Dogmatix.

  1. 20 m (22) Start up Dogmatix for ~3m. At the rail below the roof traverse ~3m right until able to pull strenuously up into a corner. Follow the corner for several meters and then step left and up to a stance on a ledge.

  2. 20 m (20) Head straight up and then slightly right to pull through the thin roof at its narrowest point. Continue up slabs and a tiny corner (micro cams useful) to a gargantuan ledge.

  3. 40 m (18) Start 7m right of Dogmatix at a monster pocket containing a small cairn. Climb up to a break, then up on orange flakes to the right of a projecting block. Continue up a short corner to a ledge, then another 5m to the next large ledge.

  4. 15 m (16) Use a massive layback flake to gain a ledge, then move left to a prominent corner. Climb the recess to the roof, step left, and up to a rail. Pull right and over the roof and then easily up to a ledge.

Descent: The descent scramble/ abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Mar 2013

1 25 25m
2 18 10m
3 19 15m
4 20 40m
5 19 30m
6 20 15m

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing. Start about 15m right of Dogmatix, below a pocketed roof.

  1. 25 m (25) Up a short easy wall, and a left-leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

  2. 10m (18) Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

  3. 15m (19) Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to the large ledge.

  4. 40m (20) Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right-facing corner on the ledge.

  5. 30m (19) Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right-facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

  6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

FA: J. Möhle & R. Halsey, Nov 2011

1 21 R 45m
2 18 40m
3 20 10m

Great climbing, but the short crux section does require bold climbing above a ledge.

The route starts on the ledge on the SW side of the Spout that is accessed from the deck above Spout Cave. The start is to the right of where Vital Statistix and Bazooka Rodeo cross the ledge, at a series of vertical cracks running up the right side of a large stepped flake.

  1. 45m (21R) Follow the cracks to a ledge. Move left and then up to a rail. Continue up the face (crux, take care, the only gear is a #0 RP) to the narrow overlap above. Step right and then back left above the overlap and up to a small ledge. Head up and right to gain the right-facing corner above. Follow the corner system and exit left to the ledge.

  2. 40m (18) Move right from the stance along a narrow ledge to a series of good flat holds up the orange face. Pull onto the next section of wall at the break (shared with Bazooka Rodeo) and then head up and left into a short, right-facing corner capped by a small roof. Pass this on the right and then continue up and slightly left to the ledge.

  3. 10m (20) Pull onto the white face and up into the crack that arches left and then vertically to a small overhang. Rail right until able to pull through and then easily to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & M. Penso, Feb 2019

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