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Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 14 15m
2 20 25m
3 17 30m
4 15 30m

FA: R. de Dekker & D. Shewell, 1995

1 14 15m
2 12 15m
3 12 5m
4 13 21m
5 12 15m
6 11 16m

FA: D. Hartley, M. Westwood, M.Scott, M. Scott & K. Fletcher, 1975

1 19 25m
2 23 30m
3 21 25m
4 18 50m

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)

  1. 25m (19) Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge.

  2. 30m (23) An undercut start off of a big horn (there used to be two horns). Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and climb the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right and carry on straight up to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m. P3 25m (21) Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip and make a mind-bending cut loose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.

  3. 50m (18) Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

FA: Ant Hall

1 22 15m
2 25 20m
3 21 45m
4 16 20m

A varied route just right of Amarula with a stunning arete pitch and contender for the best-designed belay stance on the mountain.

  1. 15 m (22) Start 5m right of Amarula on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.

  2. 20 m (25) Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose, there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow. Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.

  3. 45 m (21) Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an off-width to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.

  4. 20 m (16) Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with Ice Tea.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Mar 2013

1 18 25m
2 15 40m
3 11 20m

FA: J. Levy, J. Knight & M. Briggs, 1971

1 19 20m
2 18 45m
3 18 30m

Consistent moderate climbing around Lemon.

  1. 20 m (19) Start as for Mothers. Climb diagonally up the right-hand face to the roof. Pull through at a crack about 1m left of the end of the roof. Traverse 4m left on the platform to stance below a blunt arete.

  2. 45 m (18) Head up and left to the centre of the brown face. Head up and aim for the bottomless, left-facing, V-shaped groove. Squeeze up this (the Lemon Squeeze) and step left onto the face as soon as possible. Climb up, through a small roof, and follow good holds to a small ledge.

  3. 30 m (18) Head up a few meters to below a large, left-facing prow. Climb up the short face right of this to a series of vertical cracks. Straight to top.

FA: R Halsey & D. Steyn, Feb 2015

1 18 40m
2 25 30m
3 26 25m

A steep, demanding route crossing Mothers. The top pitch offers superb climbing in a wild position.

  1. 40 m (18) Start 5m left of Cosy Corner. Climb up to a large post box slot a few meters up. Move slightly up and right to another large horizontal slot. From here move diagonally up and left to a ledge below a brown face. Head straight up this face to a ledge.

  2. 30 m (25) Climb the bulging face to a ledge below and right of a big roof. Step left and make some hard moves to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left until able to pull past the left side of the roof. Head straight up following large layback features to a wide ledge.

  3. 25 m (26) Start up a break about 5m left of a large left tending layback crack system. Climb straight up the break to the roof. Rail about 2m right until able to make some strenuous pulls through the roof (about 1m left of the narrowest point) into the corner above. Move up and right to below the final roof. Pull up and left using layback holds to establish on the face above. Continue straight up to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Jan 2015

1 17 25m
2 20 45m
3 17 15m
4 18 30m

A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

Pitch 1. 25 m (17) Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner. Pitch 2. 45 m (20) Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right-hand wall of the huge corner. Pitch 3. 15 m (17) The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left. Pitch 4. 30 m (18) Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

FA: R. Halsey, A. Hall & H. Hajos, 2011

1 13 15m
2 14 25m
3 10 15m
4 17 10m
5 14 30m
6 14m

The traverse left(topo line photo) after P2 in the guide book is incorrect. It is lower and below the long roof (left)

FA: H. Snijders & A. Snijders, 1960

1 20 40m
2 20 40m
3 21 35m

FA: J. Orton & A. Ross-Innes, 2000

1 19 45m
2 23 45m
3 21 30m

Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.

  1. 45 m (19) Start 3m right of Cosy Corner Direct below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the Cosy Corner Direct crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.

  2. 45 m (23) Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.

  3. 30 m (21) Start as for Make Tea Not War in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of MTNW. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap, move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Nov 2014

1 21 50m
2 24 30m
3 21 35m

To the right of Cosy Corner is a large roof at about 15m height. The route stays left of this roof and heads for the wonderful, juggy face just above and left of the roof. Named after Comet Lovejoy Q2 which made a spectacularly unspectacular appearance near Orion at the time.

  1. 50 m (21) Start ~15m right of Cosy Corner Direct (CCD), a few metres left of the overhanging prow. Climb a vague recess with a distinct, white handhold at about 2m. Step right onto a small corner shelf then reach left and up to some laybacks. Move up and right to the beautiful, juggy, undercut face. Climb this, through a small, juggy roof near the top, to a large ledge.

  2. 30 m (24) Move 5m left to below two large, leftward pointing flakes in the roof. Jam strenuously in the right, narrower crack (some hand tape is useful) until able to turn the roof. Continue straight up the right-hand side of the face above to another big ledge below a huge block.

  3. 35 m (21) Start as for CCD off the top of the huge block. A tricky, poorly protected start to reach a crack. Then move right and climb to the right of CCD to the top.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Jan 2015

FA: T. Dick & M. Scott, 1975

FA: J. De V. Graaff & D. Williamson, 1951

1 22 25m
2 14 30m
3 23 25m
4 20 30m

Varied pitches and a tad committing on Pitch 1. Starts in the big corner left of Maidens Prayer.

  1. 25 m (22) Climb the corner, with a wide crack at the back, to a small ledge. Pull up and left to a thin left tending crack. Just past a tiny roof, a vertical crack branches off. Follow this to a wide rail. Continue up and left aiming for the left side of the lowest section of the large roof. Head out along the side of the roof to ride the white surfboard (which gongs!). From here pull steeply up and left to where the angle eases. Continue up another 5m to a small stance.

  2. 30 m (14) Head easily up to the large ledge, tending slightly right most of the way. Stance about 6m left of a vague arete on Sly and Slinky

  3. 25 m (23) Pull up to a wide rail below a small roof about 3m up. Traverse left until the roof peters out. Pull up to a large oval hole (with an undercling inside). Thin, difficult moves past a small flake lead to a steep crack. Head up the crack and then traverse left at a thin rail to the break in main roof running across the wall. Head straight up to the next ledge. Walk about 10m left to below the boulder where Cosy Corner Direct starts.

  4. 30 m (20) Pull up onto a little platform. A tricky move right gains a jam crack in a tube-like feature. Continue up and slightly right to the summit.

FA: R. Halsey & J. Wakeling, Mar 2016

1 13 20m
2 15 35m
3 12 30m
4 16 30m
5 14 35m

FA: M. Mamacos & F. Villa, 1952

1 13 40m
2 17 30m
3 21 20m
4 22 20m
5 20m

A variety pack on increasing difficulty from arête to crack to corner topped with an airy victory lap.

Start as for Maiden’s Prayer

  1. 40m (13) Do the first few moves of Maiden’s Prayer and then traverse right, under the Iron Maiden arête to an orange wall. Go up the easy break on the left to the first wide break. Traverse right to an easy grey recess facing to the left. Climb up to the ledge and right to the base of the brown arête.

  2. 30m (17) Follow the arête and then straight up to the ledge, and stance below the left side of the large roof above.

  3. 20m (21) Start as for Maiden’s Prayer pitch 4, by climbing over blocks into the corner. At the left facing flare above, send your tentacles right along the rail and swing out to the right to gain the lovely vertical crack in the face above the roof. Follow this until it ends and then slightly right to the ledge. Walk right over some boulders to the base of the large, white open-book capped by a roof.

  4. 20 m (22) Climb straight up the strenuous crack to the roof. Without inking yourself, traverse right under the roof to a fist crack. Step further right under a groove to a hand crack that leads to a neat, airy stance. Note: Danger Shrew pitch 4 (21) does the same first move but then traverses right along the base of the right wall into a crack system that passes the roof on the right.

  5. 20 m (15) Make an airy traverse left to a saddle feature over the middle of the roof. Straight up to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & M. Penso, Mar 2019

1 19 15m
2 19 38m
3 20 27m
4 21 30m

FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 2003

1 20 20m
2 17 15m
3 21 30m
4 23 30m

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Feb 2014

1 13 20m
2 18 50m
3 19 20m
4 19 30m

FA: A. Roff & F. Bührman, 2008

1 19 20m
2 23 30m
3 12 15m
4 22 25m
5 22 30m

Start just right of Baboon Speak on the boulder 5m right of Maiden's Prayer.

Pitch 1. 20 m (19) Pull through the roof at the small corner and head up and right to the right-hand end of a ledge below a grey, knobbly feature which is directly below an arete 15m up. Pitch 2. 30 m (23) Climb the knobbly feature, then straight up an orange face and through a bulge to a hand crack 1m left of the arete. Continue up the crack, move right across the arete, and follow a short recess to a spacious platform above the arete. Pitch 3. 15 m (12) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Stance below a roof with a left-pointing prong on the lip. Can be combined with Pitch 1. Pitch 4. 25 m (22) From a large boulder, use laybacks to reach a rail. Move slightly right then reach left to the prong. Cut loose in spectacular fashion and pull up to establish on the face below several vertical laybacks. Continue straight up to the next ledge. Stance below a left-facing horn on the lip of the roof a few meters up. This is just right of another vertical crack system above the roof. Pitch 5. 30 m (22) Use the horn to pull up past a thin vertical crack until able to stand above the roof. Move left to a layback crack then party on straight up for the summit on great holds.

FA: R. Halsey, D. Steyn & A. Gietl, Dec 2013

1 18 25m
2 17 32m
3 15 10m
4 18 25m
5 19 30m

Start as for Iron Maiden.

  1. 25m (18) Pull up to the roof and traverse right until under the roof and onto the face on the right. Make a semi hanging stance at a rectangular ledge, more or less in the middle of the face.

  2. 32m (17) Step left from the stance and then head straight up the face and follow the left side of some fin-like features to a ledge. Belay at a wide vertical crack. Move ~3m right for the next pitch.

  3. 10m (15) Climb straight up, passing a roof ~3m up to a wide ledge.

  4. 25m (18) Climb the face directly between Iron Maiden and Maidens Dare. Pull onto the face just right of two, long narrow roofs about 1m apart. Head straight up, using the left of 3 short, vertical cracks to a ledge. Move ~20m right for the last pitch.

  5. 30m (19) About 5 meters right of the Maidens Dare chimney is a break where you can pull up and move left onto an undercut, projecting feature (between the roofs each side). From here head up and slightly right to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & W. le Roux, Dec 2015

1 21 40m
2 13 46m
3 14 30m
4 17 45m

FA: P. du Preez & D. Cheesmond, 1973

1 24 15m
2 21 55m
3 19 25m
4 21 30m

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

Pitch 1. 15 m (24) Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof. Pitch 2. 55 m (21) Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book. Pitch 3. 25 m (19) In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof. Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, 2011

1 20 30m
2 17 50m
3 21 20m
4 20 30m

After an aid move to get onto the route, four varied pitches take you to the top. Starts at the crack through the big roof between Danger Shrew and Odyssey. Bring your bow tie and flowers.

Pitch 1. 30m (20 A1) Aid through the roof to reach a large jug on the face. Carefully climb up into the wide recess and more gear. Head straight up to the roof, using the crack to the right if needed. Traverse left passing the wide vertical crack on the right side of a large block. Continue traversing left to the base of a shallow corner. Pitch 2. 50m (17) Straight up the shallow corner, then up to another crack that leads to a short face below the roof. Traverse ~2m right on thin moves and then up to the roof and rail out right until the roof ends. Continue straight up on easier ground to the huge ledge. Walk ~20m right. Pitch 3. 20m (21) In the middle of the face is a narrow overhang several meters up. Start below and right of the right-hand end of the stepped overhang at a thin layback. At the ledge, step right and then follow a series of small laybacks up the face to a protruding block. Traverse right below the block and up to the grassy ledge. Stance in some boulders below an obvious thin left-facing prong a few metres above. Pitch 4. 30 m (20) Navigate the wide gap up to the long prong. Gingerly step onto this prong to gain good holds up and left over the bulge. Continue straight up to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Zipplies, Feb 2019

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