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Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 24 20m
2 20 25m
3 22 25m
4 17 30m
5 23 20m
6 21 15m
7 13 25m

Start ±10m left of Life In The Freezer. The first pitch is not for the faint-hearted.

Pitch 1. 20 m (24) Climb up 2m until able to move left into a shallow recess with a small white flake near the top. Move up and left past the flake (marginal gear). Continue up and slightly right to the first ledge. Pitch 2. 25 m (20) Traverse 10m left on a good rail until able to pull up onto a narrow shelf below a shallow corner which is ascended to a very wide rail. Traverse left for about 12m until foot holds run out at a point below a layback crack under a roof. Pitch 3. 25 m (22) Move up the layback and balance left to gain a finger rail below a roof. Move left and then up to a good rail below the next roof. Continue left until this roof terminates and pull up right onto a ledge with a large block on it. Climb up the wide recess above and exit on the right. Traverse about 8m right to stance on a big, black, projecting flake. Pitch 4. 30 m (17) The Pure Joy Pitch. Climb straight up, pull through a roof about 5m up, then romp straight up to a massive ledge. The next pitch is several meters to the left. Pitch 5. 20 m (23) Start below the right end of a roof midway up the face. Climb straight up to into the shallow corner above the right end of the roof (crossing Lost Chord). After 2m step left onto the blunt arete and head boldly up the face to stance left of some large blocks. Pitch 6. 15 m (21) Pull up to a rail below the large roof. Traverse left over the void until able to pull up at the end of the roof. Move up 2m then step right to belay at a comfortable stance.

  1. 25 m (13) Continue up the short chimney and scramble easily to the top.

FA: D. Steyn, R. Halsey & A. Roff, Feb 2014

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Feb 2014

1 21 20m
2 23 20m
3 25 10m

FA: D. Turnbull & L. Rust, 1998

1 21 20m
2 21 20m
3 20 40m
4 20 20m

FA: D. Cheesmond & J. Cheesmond, 1974

FA: L. Rust, R. Suter & T. Versfeld, 1998

1 17 20m
2 23 20m
3 15 25m
4 21 30m
5 17 25m
6 21 25m

Like the wandering albatross, the route roams around. The pitch before the 90 ° change in course will have you puffin.

  1. 20 m (17) Start as for Bat, but after a few moves, move right to a thin seam about 2m right of the corner. Continue straight up to the ledge

  2. 20 m (23) Pull up to a rail and move a bit right until able to do a long move to the next rail. Move back left to above and a little left of the belayer. Continue up into a shallow left-facing corner, and pull up to a finger rail in the roof. Make the voyage left to an island foothold to resupply. Step back right and use wingspan to gain side pulls to establish on the face. Glide up to the wide rail below the roofs. #4 Camelot recommended for stance.

  3. 25 m (15) 90 degree change in course: head right on good hand holds until about to mantle up to the higher level. Flap on past the Swan, across the wide ledge and stance at the far right end of the narrow ledge.

  4. 30 m (21) The Atlantic crossing. Pull up to the finger rail, move right to pull through, then at the next rail traverse back left above belayer (as for pitch 2 of The Crow). Continue left past the vertical crack and go up the face to the height of the roof. Move left again and easily up featured rock. Walk left along a narrow ledge for ~5m, pull up 2m to the next level and another 5 m left to a stance on a cosy ledge. Above are a series of large left facing wing-like features.

  5. 25 m (17) Fly straight up the outside (right) of the big wings to a bulge with a break through the middle. Straight up to the massive ledge. Walk ~10m left to start the next pitch.

  6. 25 m (21) On the left side of the smooth wall there is diagonally sloping feature at the base, which rises up to the left, with a wide rail above it. From the left end of this feature follow a series of left-facing flakes and arches to a finger rail. Move 2m right and pull onto the face. Move diagonally left on edges to a horizontal break, trying to keep the flap to a minimum. Up to a vertical hand crack to a ledge. Take the recess above to the summit.

FA: R. Halsey & J. Wakeling, Jan 2019

1 21 25m
2 25 15m
3 18 20m
4 18 50m
5 21 35m

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right-hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

  1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

  2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

  3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

  4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

  5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, 2011

1 23 30m
2 24 20m
3 23 30m
4 20 25m
5 21 30m

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move. Pitch 2. 20 m (24) From the right of the ledge move up right to a small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to the left end of the ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull. Pitch 3. 30 m (23) Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to the next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to a huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to the ledge. Pitch 4. 25 m (20) Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge. Pitch 5. 30 m (21) 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 30cm square parapet.

FA: A. Roff, D. Steyn & G. Lipinska, 2010

1 24 35m
2 21 45m
3 22 25m

FA: T. Versfeld, R. Suter & L. Rust, 1998

1 21 20m
2 20 15m
3 15 12m
4 20 10m
5 18 40m
6 23 25m

FA: C. Lomax & L. Rust, 1998

1 18 40m
2 20 30m

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

  1. 40 m (18) From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.

  2. 30 m (20) Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2011

1 21 15m
2 23 30m
3 24 20m
4 21 40m
5 23 30m

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

  1. 15 m (21) Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

  2. 30 m (23) Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

  3. 20 m (24) Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

  4. 40 m (21) Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

  5. 30 m (23) Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

FA: A. Roff, F. Buhrmann & G. Lipinska, 2008

FFA: G. Lipinska, D. Steyn & W. le Roux, 2009

1 13 12m
2 17 30m
3 19 20m
4 16 15m
5 16 40m
6 15 30m

FA: M. Scott & T. Hughes, 1984

FFA: M. Scott & R. Behne, 1986

1 16 15m
2 22 15m
3 21 15m
4 23 8m
5 20 30m
6 20 20m
7 21 25m
8 17 12m

This sustained route features a wild, pumpy traverse in an airy position.

Pitch 1. 15 m (16) About 10m right of Grappler, climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge. Pitch 2. 15 m (22) Start from a large block 5m left of Grappler P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with Grappler. Pitch 3. 15 m (21) Head up ~2m to the first rail (below Grappler's rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail. Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential. Pitch 4. 8 m (23) Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades. Pitch 5. 30 m (20) Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge. Pitch 6. 20 m (20) Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on the featured rock to a wide ledge. Pitch 7. 25 m (21) Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underclings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge. Pitch 8. 12 m (17) Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right-facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Mar 2013

1 23 20m
2 26 25m
3 16 25m
4 21 30m
5 20 35m

The route breaks through the big roof between Grappler and The Frontal with steep and spectacular climbing. Starts ~30m left of The Frontal, just left of a big roof and under a hook-shaped feature at the base of a layback crack. Some extra medium size cams are useful on pitch 2.

  1. 20 m (23) Head up ~5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ~2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double layer roof above.

  2. 25 m (26) The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ~7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ~2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right-hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).

  3. 25 m (16) Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.

  4. 30 m (21) Start just right of Sorcerer. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right-facing corner. At the top step left onto the grey face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with Sorcerer).

  5. 35 m (20) Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with Jedi Fish P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ~15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Jan 2013

1 12 25m
2 11 45m
3 13 45m
4 12 35m
5 12 12m
6 13 35m

FA: E. Keen, B. Russel & H. Wong, 1947

1 14 20m
2 15 35m
3 14 15m
4 16 20m
5 19 25m
6 16 10m

FA: M. Scott & T. Hughes, 1971

1 20 42m
2 19 30m
3 19 40m

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Sorcerer. Start a few meters left of Tafelberg Frontal at a 'tower' cairn.

  1. 42 m (20) Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grade 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (Sorcerer takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).

  2. 30 m (19) A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves'-feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.

  3. 40 m (19) Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftwards slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face. Straight up to the top. The last 10 climbing meters are on superb orange, featured rock.

FA: A. Hintringer & U. Pitsch, Feb 2012

1 13 15m
2 21 20m
3 18 15m
4 23 15m
5 20 20m
6 18 30m

Varied climbing with a committing crux pitch. Runs right and parallel to Jedi Fish. The crux pitch can be replaced with the first half of pitch 2 of Jedi Fish, to give a safer route at grade 21.

  1. 15 m (13) Climb the face just left of the frontal. Stance below a small roof.

  2. 20 m (21) Pull over some bulges to a little ledge below some roofs. Pull strenuously into a left-facing V slot. Establish over this and pull through two more roofs onto a face. Straight up to a small ledge.

  3. 15 m (18) Climb the series of right-facing layback cracks, through an overlap and past a huge rectangular block to a ledge.

  4. 15 m (23) Start below a large flat hold at about eye level. Head up a few meters (Camalot #1 and #2). Traverse left for 3m on good foot edges. Pull up at a flake (micro nuts or tiny cam). Move up and right to large under cling feature. Hard moves out left then straight up to the enormous ledge. This pitch wanders a bit, and the gear is a bit tricky.

  5. 20 m (20) Start at hairline crank that rises slightly left. Follow this to a rail. Move right and up to a narrow roof. Pull through to a left-facing layback. Balance up, and continue another few meters to a hanging stance at handrail with a good foot ledge.

  6. 30 m (18)Step right follow a series of huge flakes. Continue tending right until able to pull up into another set of flakes just below the summit.

FA: R. Halsey & M. Thilo

1 11 25m
2 13 20m
3 15 25m
4 16 35m
5 16 40m
6 16 33m
7 9 20m
8 16 20m

FA: K. Fletcher, M. Scott & D. Hartley, 1970

1 17 30m
2 18 40m

FA: R. Suter, Tim & Lance, 1998

1 14 15m
2 19 20m
3 17 30m
4 19 50m

A consistent, direct line to the left of Central Direct. Along the first long traverse on the Frontal, there is a large rectangular block with a roof above it. The route starts below the left side of this block.

  1. 15 m (14) Climb the easy break to the block.

  2. 20 m (19) From the left end of the block, pull up to just below the roof and head left on good holds until able to pull over onto face. Head up and then slightly right to stance at the base of a narrow chimney (shared with the Frontal)

  3. 30 m (17) Start up the chimney part of the Frontal, then move right onto the middle of the orange face. Head straight up to a narrow ledge.

  4. 50 m (19) Start up a crack and then blast straight up the wall, aiming for a left tending corner crack just below the summit. This crack forms the first (not the second) left-facing corner about 5m left of the massive flake at the top of Central Direct.

FA: R. Halsey, C. Edelstein & W. New

1 20 15m
2 18 25m
3 21 30m
4 11 15m
5 18 40m

FA: R. Fuggle & T. Dick, 1969

1 11 30m
2 13 20m
3 18 30m
4 15 30m
5 18 35m

FA: R. Suter & D. Gemmel, 1999

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