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Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 9 weeks ago
5

Description

A short, clean, and deceptively steep amphitheatre/ wall just to the right of the route Thumbelina. It is easily visible up on your right as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point.

Access issues inherited from Tafelberg

A permit is required: www.capenature.co.za

Approach

Approach by scrambling up The Central Route.

Descent notes

Walk off right to the standard descent route or find an abseil point.

Ethic inherited from Tafelberg

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Walk around in the direction of Wolfberg, until just past The Great Crack Route. Just left of the large overhang is a very short face where the routes start.

Climb the short face to the bulge. Pull up to an overlap and move left about 1m. Continue straight to the top.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, 2014

Climb the short face to the bulge. Pull up to an overlap and move right about 2m up to a rail. Move slightly left again and continue straight to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2014

Descent: Walk off right to the standard descent route or find an abseil point.

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

FA: R. Halsey, 12 Nov 2011

Start on the right of red rock at a cairn. Climb to rail, rail left 2m and move awkwardly up corner to exit left on the ledge below the roof. Rail left and up for 1m, to gain horizontal flake. Traverse right to the apex of flake and crank hard up the face to pockets continue up right to the arete and top.

FA: M. Seuring, Apr 2013

Head straight up to the top with a couple of hard moves between rails until the angle eases off.

FA: D. Steyn & R. Halsey, Jan 2014

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