★★★ The Ringmaster 23

Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.

1. 45 m (19) Start 3m right of Cosy Corner Direct below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the Cosy Corner Direct crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.

2. 45 m (23) Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.

3. 30 m (21) Start as for Make Tea Not War in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of MTNW. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap, move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.