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Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

https://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-2

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 21 days ago

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Description

ALL INFORMATION PROVIDED HERE IS DIRECTLY FROM THE 'BOVEN CLIMBING ROTES' PDF CLIMBING GUIDE by Andrew Pedley & Gustav Janse Van Rensburg. The PDF guide is available free for download at http://www.climbing.co.za/

Access issues inherited from The Mayhem Crags

Climbing Permits Wonderland. The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Orubeni farm has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules: - ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE - KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM - NO FIRES EVER - NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER - DO NOT WALK IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE – DO NOT WALK OUT AFTER DARK…YOU MAY BE CONFUSED FOR A THIEF AND SHOT (THIS IS A WORKING FARM)

Approach

From Jack's Playground, the path going right along the base is good all the way through this sector ending at the Waterfall.

Probably the best sector, clean orange walls and aretes. The climbs are described from left (waterfall end) to right :

Routes

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Grade Route

Currently, the route closest to the waterfall. A tricky start leads to some fun and heady pulling.

FA: Marc Efune, Apr 2017

Start off the tree stump and head leftwards.Hardware provided by MCSA.

FA: Marc Efune, Apr 2018

Shares the first 3 bolts with Pompeii then heads straight up. Hardware provided by MCSA.

Set: Marc Efume, 12 Aug 2018

Starts in a damp section between DEEP IMPACT & PANDORA’S BOX and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic.

FA: Marc Efune, Oct 2016

Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! MCSA bolts.

FA: Marc Efune, May 2016

In front of a small clearing and a large yellow arrow painted on a boulder.

FA: Marc Efune, Jun 2016

Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildly left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Andrew Pedley, Apr 2015

The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic? Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Andrew Pedley

Starts at yellow wood tree, left of Changeling. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains.

FA: Wes Makovini, Jul 2015

Climb the open book corner to the left of Lunatic Fringe. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down.

FA: Liz Makovini, Jun 2015

Start in the corner of Changeling then head right and up the fun technical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marc Efune, Jul 2015

Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Andrew Pedley, Mar 2015

Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of Lunatic Fringe. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Maryke Nieuwoudt, Roland Magg & guenther bargon, Feb 2015

Starts just beside a small tree at an ‘overlap’. Powerful start with endure wall climbing above. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Jonothan Cohen, Mar 2015

Couple meters right of the above, with some hardness passing an overlap low down. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the face to the left of Burning Man, over the roof and to rightish and then back left at the top. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, Aug 2015

Up the middle of the obvious stellar red wall. A bouldery start (don’t cheat by starting on the left), and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail right then back left to some trickery. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Andrew Pedley, Mar 2015

Busts up the giant rib like rock formation between the two huge cracks. Traverse in from the left on the jug rail till below the big splitter cracks, trixy moves and fun climbing to the top. Topped out to the left but finishing on DCCD might make for a more pleasurable clean. Bomber gear. Permission has been given to retrobolt.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. Not particularly well bolted to be careful placing draws if it’s at your limit. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Mo Hopf, Mar 2015

Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs. Full set of spectacular moves makes for a magical finale.

Set: Dewald Kloppers

FA: Ebert Nel, 2018

Climbs the diagonal ramp and exit by the easy break to the top.

FA: Maryke Nieuwoudt & guenther bargon, Feb 2016

10 meters right (facing the cliff) of Dead Cows is a blank wall with a faint crack line up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marc Efune, Jul 2015

The obvious large crack/layback. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Ciska Kloppers, Sep 2015

immediatelyto the right of the crack. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marc Efune, Nov 2015

Starts in the corner behind the thicket, past through the roof with a grunt, might be nice to have a draw in the bolt ‘above the lip’. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marc Efune, Aug 2015

The beautiful technical red face (see photo) then wild moves through the roof. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marc Efune, Aug 2015

As the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. Bolts rather close in places…

FA: Liz Makovini, May 2015

Obvious crack to the right of Hidden Fire. Chains at the top.

FA: Liz Makovini, Jul 2015

The face immediately to the right of Psycho Bambi.

FA: Alan Hughes, Jul 2015

Starts at tree 6m to the right of Psycho Bambi. Might be harder if you're short. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Wes Makovini, Jul 2015

Climb the chimney to the right of Gone in 60 Seconds. Finish on the left.

FA: Liz Makovini, Jun 2016

At the far end of the gully in the corner. Climb the corner snaking right around the tree and topping out above it again.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

[N, A] Hidden in the corridor just left of BSB. Busts up the obvious crack in the stack. Fun fun fun. Permission has been given to retrobolt.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

Climbs the face on the free-standing pillar 20m right of Hop Toad.

FA: Wes Makovini, Sep 2016

Climbs a corner halfway between the embayment and Gone in 60 seconds.

FA: Liz Makovini, Jul 2015

The arête just left of MARAKAS. The perfect corner climb.

Set: Alex Bester

Left of Drill Seargent, at the back of the ‘embankment’. Climb the obvious crack/flake with some balance and technique. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

FA: Marayke Nieuwoudt & guenther bargon, Aug 2015

The corner 5 meters left of SUC. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Marc Efune, Jul 2015

From the gully, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embankment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

FA: Michelle van Aswegen, Nov 2015

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