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The Last Crag of the Century

  • Grade context: SA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 181
  • Aka: Last Crag of the Century

Seasonality

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Description

Routes here are up to 35 metres long and the quality of the climbing is clearly imported from another solar system, several 5-star routes including arguably the best 19, best 22, 23 and 26 at Boven!. Long routes will sometimes have chains halfway up so that you can lower off twice to get down. There is plenty of potential for new lines at the right end of the crag, just be sure it‟s not one of the existing trad climbs.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.

Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

The best is to park as for ACRA then access as for the WB wall, then abseil (or scramble) down the WB gully. At the base of the gully, walk along the path along the base of the cliffs until you see the climbs. To exit, either scramble back up the gully, or walk approx 200m along the base of the crag until you reach the railway and you will arrive at the top of the WB gully. Walk back through tunnel, if a train comes, press yourself to one side (apparently safe but absolutely terrifying).

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 16
2 14

Yes – the view is outstanding!! Possible to climb both pitches as one, but watch rope drag and forget meaningful communication.

  1. [16] XXm
    [12D] Starts up the gully for ~4 bolts (better to use those on the left) before stepping L at a ledge. Up the pocketed slab just L of the arete. If you lower off, go down the gully off 2 anchors at a large ledge.
  2. [14] XXm
    [10D] Start from the ledge (around the arete from the gully chains). Continue up the blocky arete, R past the tree (clip the right bolt here) up to anchors at the very top. The step up under the tree is way harder for short climbers.

If you wish to keep an eye on your 2nd (lowering off here is not easy), there is another set of anchors just before the very top on the right.

FA: G. Janse van Rensburg & Clive Curson, Jul 2017

The gully. Now has a lot more bolts so it can be led by an 11 leader. Care still required. Better to use the bolts on the right. FA: Who knows (solo) 1991 BB: Gus(?), Clive

Starts up 'Madiba Magic' and trends left after about 3 bolts. The finish up into BSDD is brilliant and sustained – so conserve energy!

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

Starts 10m right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag.

Set: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2013

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2013

Just right of 'Madiba Magic'.

Left of 'Sport Climbing Is Dead'

FA: Fred Roulx, 2016

An obvious crack 20m right of the WB gully. The route is about 35m long.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits, 1999

Right of 'Sport Climbing Is Dead'

FA: Fred Roulx, 2016

About 40m right of 'Sport Climbing Is Dead'. A few steepish moves up to the belay ledge and the start of the next pitch.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

Climb the thin crack to the right of 'Electric Avenue - Pitch 1' to the ledge at the end of 'Electric Avenue - Pitch 1'

FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling, 2009

Face climbing can't get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of 'Endless Summer'. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30m+ long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

Diagonally leftwards up to the obvious knee bar in the block under the overlap. Pull over this rightwards then easy to finish.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

Climb straight up from the third bolt of 'Fudge Beats Burfee' through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30m+ route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'As the World Disappears' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The climb can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

Hack up the bushy slope just right of 'Caffeine Jitters' to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Hector Pringle. Grade upgrade from 23 by FA in 2018.

FA: Hector Pringle, 2013

The long face just left of 'Caffeine Jitters'.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

1 20 20m
2 15 12m
  1. [20] 20m
    Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge cams and up to the obvious ledge.
  2. [15] 12m
    Continue straight to the top.

Can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

FA: Alex Janse van Rensburg, 1999

Starts on first bolt of 'Who's Your Daddy?' and goes straight up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2016

Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles!

FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 1999

Break out right after the third bolt of 'The Three Mosquitos'.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

Just right of the arête, 30m+ long, so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

Share the first couple of bolts with 'Unterwegs Nach Haus', then out right. Ever so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

Ever so slightly run out!!! Take a #0 and #0.5 Friend plus a #1 rock for in case you need it.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

About 50m left of 'Heck, Tick'. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

Start at large flaring off-width crack. Climb the crack till it ends and move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2m. Pull through break and up headwall. Take small gear.

FA: Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring & Douard le Roux, 2003

Starts below on an obvious corner capped by large roofs 15m above. Climb the corner and bypass the roofs on the left, then straight up the head wall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

Climb the corner 2m left of 'Dust From A Distant Sun', bypass overhang on left and scamper up slab through overlap to top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

Starts 15m left of 'Follow The light'. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

The obvious crack on the freestanding pillar left of 'Vicious Fishies'. Watch out for loose rock.

FA: Allister Fenton, Dec 2015

Situated on a freestanding pillar about 50m right of 'Who's Your Daddy?' Start from the path and climb the steep left arête.

FA: Hector Pringle, 2016

The line a few meters right of 'Vicious Fishies'. Stick clip the first bolt (or lean across from the tree)

FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Dec 2016

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