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Description

Climbs starting to the left of the old look-out ruins.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 1 20m
2 12 20m
3 16 35m

FA: Unknown

Climb the blunt arete to the right of Lookout. At the small ledge, pull up onto the fin (sounds hollow, but seems solid) and move strenuosly up and slightly right. Finish up the ramp to the broad ledge.

FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017

1 16 20m
2 9 10m
3 17 13m
4 18 18m

FFA: Unknown

FA: J. Cluistra & J. Wilson, 1970

1 13 18m
2 15 30m
3 13 15m

FA: G. Davies & J. Wilson, 1969

1 13 18m
2 15 30m
3 13 15m

FA: M. Scott

1 20
2 19

The route is between Bantry Crag 32 and Hotfoot 33 in David Mercer’s guidebook and follows a pretty straight line up directly to the abseil anchors above Rainbow Crag’s rib.

P1: Start from the ledge left of the old lookout’s foundation below Rainbow crag. It takes the rib shown as a notable undercut white rectangular hanging block in David Mercer’s guidebook photo. To the right is an easy gully with ribs, which can be scrambled up. To the left is a yellow scoop (has been climbed/bad rock). The main rib is climbed on the left side with friction layback moves to a place on top to stand and get some gear. Then move left and up past a grass tuft to another place to stand and try to place gear for the crux awkward mantleshelf move (Warning-several small cams needed to protect this move). On the ledge above move diagonally left to a low block with a crack that provides a good belay point for cams.

P2: climbs above the sandstone cave where you land from the abseil. (The first moves may be common with Hotfoot according to Mercer’s line and description, but I think we climbed Hotfoot further left?) In the recess are 2 cracks which form a clear V shape from below. Climb the left one, handrail right and layback up to a ledge. Then climb more or less straight up to the abseil point. Very steep and strenuous.

FA: Richard Behne & Mike Scott, 7 Mar 2015

1 13.12 25m
2 11 14m
3 11 22m
4 8m

FA: J. Gray & J. Wilson, 1970

1 9 25m
2 12 12m
3 12 30m

Starts just left of the concrete foundation (old lookout) on the left side of a detached flake.

  1. [9] 25m. Climb the left side of the flake then follow cracks and face to the vegetated band above. Scramble up to and slightly left to a crack in a dihedral.

  2. [12] 12m. Climb the open book to a ledge to the right with a white block on it.

  3. [12] 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the crack to a ledge then up a large chimney and through a wormhole to the top.

Descent: Either hike to the top or go about 5m skiers-right and down to a rappel anchor (2x60m to bottom).

FA: Unknown

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