Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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18 | ★★ Tou-jam | 97m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Oct 2013 | ||||
Either tired from surfing and yoga or previous days climbing but it it felt hard!Great variety of rock styles and moves on one single pitch. Very good gear before roof and beyond lip, looking forward to the rest of the route!
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18 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
25m
2
18
40m
3
15
30m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★ Crescendo
1
17
20m
2
10
3
17
4
18
| 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
16 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free
1
17
2
16
3
16
4
15
5
15
| 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
16 |
★★ Juggernaut
1
14
25m
2
16
25m
3
14
8m
4
14
18m
5
15
30m
| 110m | Lion's Head | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||||
16 |
★★ Cub's Cuff
- with
Donovan
1
13
18m
2
15
15m
3
14
20m
4
16
20m
5
13
| 73m | Lion's Head | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||||
15 |
★ Rumpelstiltskin
| 70m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | ||||
15 |
★★★ Aquanaut
- with
Simon
1
14
30m
2
15
35m
| 65m | Lion's Head | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | |||||
Second pitch. Felt much easier than expected, first lead with new partner. Was good to have him help with route finding and rope clipping suggestions. Felt like the two ropes makes sense to me now. First time climbing with Simon.
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15 |
★★★ Clifton Crest
- with
Jeroen
4
15
23m
| 23m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | ||||
Climbed with J. Onsight lead pitch from tea cave. Really cool step up move, exciting and relaxed.
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15 |
★★★ Clifton Crest (Clifton Crest P5)
- with
Simon Larsen
| 36m | Lion's Head | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Aquanaut
- with
Simon Larsen
2
15
35m
lead by
Simon Larsen
| 65m | Lion's Head | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
10 |
★★ White Face
1
8
20
2
10
30
3
9
25
4
9
20
| 95m | Lion's Head | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | |||||
15 Hard |
★★★ Aquanaut P1-2
1
14
30
2
15
35
| 65m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Dec 2023 | ||||
First two pitches done on a miserably cold day.
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23 | ★★ Power Struggle | 20m | Lion's Head | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2010 | ||||
Trad Cool
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2011 | ||||
Trad Very cool pitch
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21/22 | ★★ Mean Eyed Cat - with Mike | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Mar 2024 | ||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut (Cosmanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut - with Justine Cole | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Cosmonaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 28th Nov 2012 | ||||
Just when u think u wanna head out and climb your first 20 on trad, turns out to be a 18, good fun climb, with good gear in nice exposed postitions.
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17 20 | ★★ Raphelion | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 21st Jan 2016 | |||||
Not 20, climbs we'll, needs a good scrub!
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18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with Charles Bowker | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | ||||
19 | ★★ Lionheart | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Mar 2016 | ||||
Very good route, with a unique crux.
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19 | ★★ Druggernaut | 25m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th May 2012 | ||||
One of the best single pitch routes on the Lion, crux is def 19- but doable when you eventually figure out what needs to be done. Gobbles gear so is safe, big #3's are useful ESP when going into the crux. There is a massive block 1m x 0.5m x thick that is loose so beware; it is about 2/3 up. Great setting looking over Campsbay/ Clifton and sheltered from the south winds, highly recommended
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18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
Probably the best route on Lion's Head that goes straight to the top. P1 is amazing and P2 is one of the best at the grade. I would say P3 should be bumped to grade 16.
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18 19 | ★★ Lion's Share (Variation) | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Mar 2016 | ||||
Better than the standard route. I did not find the crux to be 19, I think because I am tall. Nice crack climbing.
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19 | ★★ Cash Connection | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 17th May 2016 | ||||
It's a little contrived. Had to move around a lot to place gear. Feels a little sketchy in btwn, but forces you to commit. Nice variety of moves.
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19 | ★★ Lionheart | 30m | Lion's Head | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2010 | ||||
Trad Cool name
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19 | ★★ Druggernaut - with Simon | 25m | Lion's Head | Sat 31st Jul 2021 | |||||
Really happy with this OS. Simon thought the layback roof move was quite hard for the grade.
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19 ~18 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2023 | ||||
An amazing route, following a series of overhangs with some interesting crack climbing. I saw a mouse living inside one of the rails near the top, which gave me a big fright at first! I also learned the importance of tying a stopper knot on your chalk bag, after mine nearly fell off. This route was opened at grade 18, it feels tricky but fair for the grade. If you struggle to read the route and struggle to find rests or hang around figuring out the gear it would probably feel like a pumpy 19.
Beware the loose block after the crux. |
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16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
First 16 on trad! | 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
19 | ★★ Relic News - with Eyed0LL | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Unique features make for good moves off the ground. Great cruxes that are committing in places. Also contrived in places as you can move around to get rests on other lines.
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19 | ★★ Double Dassie - with Aimée Chiat Hook | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||||
Great short line, climbs well, good committing crux.
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18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Kalashnikov | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 6th Mar 2014 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Craving - with Justine Cole | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Feb 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - with M. Lamprecht | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Mar 2021 | ||||
I need to read RD's correctly. Was in a rush before sunset. Harder if you are short.
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18 | ★★ The Craving | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Apr 2012 | ||||
First time climbing at this sector/ crag, first impression is very good. My winter climbing is going to be extended, yippee! Quickest walk in and rap bolts= luxury. This is a great route a little soft maybe, would be great for your first 18 lead. Does not look like this area gets climbed much as the routes need a little cleaning, excellent quality though.
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18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | ||||
P1- is good and good gear! P2 has a commiting crux with good pro; P3 is very high quality.
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18 | ★★ Kalashnikov | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Mar 2013 | ||||
#78 in book If 18 is your limit try something else, but maybe I feel this way as I did not clip the 2 pitons, did not see them and forgot about them, climbing is awesome placing the gear is, well, exciting! Will make a great winter after work climb due to single pitch nature and easy access.
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18 | ★★ Greyscaling | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 18th Nov 2014 | ||||
Great climbing if a little scary!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas (Cat's Pajamas) | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Dec 2014 | ||||
One of the better long routes on Lion's Head. The crux pitch, P2 is really good. The balance of the pitches do not look inspiring but are all good. Esp P4 Another cool thing is u can climb P2-18 as a single pitch or link-up, and there is a rap point above, so if u are short on time, it makes an excellent pitch on it's own.
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18 | ★★ Crescendo | 61m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jan 2015 | ||||
Last pitch in the dark with the head torch, good fun with Cuan and Niel. Nice challenging route. Gear is good on all pitches.
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18 | ★★ Kestrel Country Music-Variation | 93m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | ||||
1-13; P2-14; P3-13; P4-12; P5-18 I did the variation as seemed a better line. Some good little sections that make you think. Seemed a little soft for 18, but I think my reach made it easier as the 2nd struggled!
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18 | ★★★ Drive On | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Mar 2015 | ||||
Wow! What an amazing single pitch route, It flows so well.
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18 | ★★ Orphan of the Road | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Apr 2015 | ||||
Excellent crack climbing.
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18 | ★★★ Skink Inc. | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Nov 2015 | |||||
It was scary, but I came to terms with it! Great line.
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas | 120m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Josh. Just climbed crux pitch. Got rope drag and had to split crux pitch into two with a mid level hanging belay. Guess it's good to practice building those.
Trad |
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18 | ★★ Kalashnikov - with Simon | 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 31st Jul 2021 | |||||
Cool route, felt interesting placing a microcam and then pushing on to the top. There were no pitons as advertised (hah)!
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18 | ★★ Rainbow Strate - with Eyed0LL | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||||
P1 is really good climbing, but you can shift around onto the other routes to get good rests, so in this sense it is a little contrived. The crux has really nice moves and is committing.
P2 was quite testy is places, also good quality of climbing.
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17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★★ No Charge - with Charles Bowker | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Apr 2014 | ||||
17 | ★ Trachylepis - with Marelé | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||||
Great single pitch, scary!
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17 | ★ Shamba | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||||
Nice start and middle, pity re the top.
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17 | ★ Cougar | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 20th Jan 2021 | |||||
Really cool.
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18 17 | ★★ Power Couple | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
More a variation of Kalashnikov, commiting crux.
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17 | ★ Rolling Moon | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
Good one, nice crack at the end.
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17 | ★★ Cloud Number 39 | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | ||||
One of the best lines at the grade in this sector, technical climbing, good gear.
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17 | ★ Fighting for a Share - with M. Lamprecht | Lion's Head | Average | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | |||||
Opening new lines where other RD's are not detailed, hmmmmm!
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16 17 | ★★ Heavy Breather | 25m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 6th Oct 2015 | ||||
Nice start moves and first 3rd of the route, be careful loose block about 3-4M up.
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16 17 | ★ Lovely Jubbly (Luvely Jubbly) | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 7th May 2012 | ||||
Nice start let down by blandish end.
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18 17 | ★★ Wham Bam | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
P3 has a great crux. Most of the pitches are under-graded, so beware. Pitches above P3 are crap!
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17 | ★★ Egg-sucking Dog | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 23rd Apr 2015 | ||||
Good sustained climbing and good gear.
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17 | ★★★ Pounce | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Apr 2015 | ||||
Good single pitch route.
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17 | ★★★ In Your Mind | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Apr 2015 | ||||
Good single pitch route.
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17 | ★★ Taut Naut | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | |||||
Well protected crux.
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17 | ★★ My Naut is better than your Naut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 15th Feb 2016 | ||||
Pretty fun if not a little contrived. Rock looked a little dodge in one place but otherwise good. Thought the grading was soft, deffo not SA-18
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17 | ★★ Duly Noted | 40m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Mar 2016 | ||||
Excellent first pitch, good gear, well protected exciting crux. Beyond crux and P2 could do with a scrub.
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17 | ★★★ Black and Weight | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Mar 2016 | ||||
Suprisingly good climbing.
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17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | ||||
P1-3 are very good. P4-5 are crap. Worthwhile doing the first 3.
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17 | ★★★ No Charge - with Mike | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Mar 2024 | ||||
18 16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Jugurnaught) | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★★ Highwayman - with Guy Pike | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Oct 2013 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Juggernaught) - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Jun 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Highwayman | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2016 | ||||
16 | ★ Rodney | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Highwayman | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2011 | ||||
Trad
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16 | ★★★ Highwayman | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 4th Nov 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Garden Variety | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jan 2021 | ||||
Pretty scary! Very good climbing. Wish the FA would scrub his route/s. Scary to lead, but rewarding. 2nd best line in this sector.
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16 | ★ Cold War | 20m | Lion's Head | Average | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
Good climbing, bad rock.
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16 | ★★ Roaring Lion | 30m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Pretty nice once u get into the style. Needs a good scrub!
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16 | ★ Two Girls and a Guy | 30m | Lion's Head | Average | Mon 16th Nov 2015 | ||||
Route has promise, but gets one star due to lack of scrubbing & cleaning.
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16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
Good climbing, climbs better than it looks.
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16 | ★★ Micronaut | 25m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Apr 2012 | ||||
Great quick, single pitch of high quality. Highly recommended esp. when time short. Also buttress is very sheltered from Southerly winds.
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16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 16th Jan 2013 | ||||
Nice route for beginners.
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16 | ★★ Folsom Prison Blues | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Oct 2013 | ||||
Great single pitch route of high quality.
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16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jan 2015 | ||||
P1-climbs a little awkward, but still nice and challenging, P2-just scrambling, P3- Is really good. P4 is average and short. If you get to this point, I would suggest heading for the rap anchors on the left. The remaining pitches take you right to the top but are average and vegetated.
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16 | ★★ Lookout | 75m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jan 2015 | ||||
P1 has a great start, P2 is fun @ 12; P3 is amazing, was not expecting it to be that good.
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16 | ★★ Table Bay | 65m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
Good route for the grade, varied styles of climbing.
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16 | ★★ Feathered Delight | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||
Gets the juices flowing.
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16 | ★★★ The Inspirer | 20m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | ||||
Nice unprotected start and the last third of the route is really good.
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16 | ★★ Nautus Tautus | 25m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 12th Oct 2015 | ||||
Deffo not 15, nice routes at this area!
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16 | ★ Rodney | 20m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 19th Oct 2015 | ||||
Scary start, good climbing.
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16 | ★★ Creekers | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2015 | |||||
Great route but not 15 as initially opened. I would say 16/17. Powerful start move with the option of bypassing on the right. Top headwall has amazing technical face climbing with interesting/ creative gear placements.
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16 | ★ Johnny Cache Wimp-out | 20m | Lion's Head | Average | Mon 26th Oct 2015 | ||||
Pleasant climbing, with a tentative start, I must have done it wrong as did not feel 18.
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16 | ★ Fees Must Fall | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 28th Oct 2015 | |||||
Good climbing.
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15 16 | ★★ Cub's Cuff | 73m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
P1 is rather disapointing, but the rest of the route is pretty good.
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