Nodes in Sandstone

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The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain

Lookout Sector

Climbs starting to the left of the old look-out ruins.

Lookout Sector
22 Tou-jam
13 Atlantic Wall

When looking left from the look-out this starts just at the ridge-line/sky-line, where a slab leans against the cliff. Start up the left side of the slab.

  1. 13, 17m. Up the left side of the slab (be careful of loose blocks) then step right, then up a finger crack to belay on a platform.

  2. 11, 40m. Scramble straight up to an obvious clean break of darker rock between two lichenous faces, then up this to belay on a ledge below an overhang.

  3. 13, 26m. Traverse awkwardly right under the roof, then up a clean crack to a ledge, then traverse somewhat less awkwardly (though over some loose blocks) and under a roof leftwards to belay in a comfortable corner with a roof.

  4. 13, 24m. Climb up the left side to escape past the roof to a platform, scramble up to a gully to the right, then up to the top.

Descent: scramble to the top and hike down, or walk rightwards to the rappel anchors (2x60m) -- they are one level down (reasonable down-climb, marked by cairns).

17 Lookout
19 Double Dassie

Climb the blunt arete to the right of Lookout. At the small ledge, pull up onto the fin (sounds hollow, but seems solid) and move strenuosly up and slightly right. Finish up the ramp to the broad ledge.

18 Crescendo
15 Bantry Crag
20 Raphelion
13 Rainbow Crag

Starts just left of the concrete of ruins of the lookout on the left side of a detached flake.

  1. 10, 25m. Climb the left side of the flake then follow cracks and face to the vegetated band above. Scramble up to and slightly left to a crack in a dihedral.

  2. 13, 12m. Climb the open book to a ledge to the right with a white block on it.

  3. 13, 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the crack to a ledge then up a large chimney and through a worm-hole to the top.

Descent: either hike to the top, or go about 5m skiers-right and down to a rappel anchor (2x60m to bottom).

Nooit ekse
6 Clifton Crack
15 Feline
11 Luther Played the Boogie
15 Taking Down the Lion

Follow path up until you see the ladder about 50 meters away. up to your right will be a a crack/slab climb.

  1. Follow this crack on slopery and ledgy holds until topout.

  2. Pitch two starts about 100 meters righ of pitch 1's topout. It is a slab climb with a crack on your left, good for placing gear. Slightly mossy and wet during the winter. Topout onto a large ledge.

  3. Pitch up right following crimpy holds with good friction. Amazing exposure further up on the pitch with great gear (when repitching look for broken rock, courtesy of terrible anchor).

  4. Pitch four starts five meter right. First 30 meters resembles a scramble but the last 20 is beautiful climbing up a chimney-like crack. The moves are... unique. DO NOT TRUST WEDGED BOULDERS!!

  5. Scramble out on a steep grassy incline. More cautious climbers may want to pitch this. All in all, great climb with good gear.

Wally's sector
Wally's sector
17 Luvely Jubbly

Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution. Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top.

16 Creekers

From the block left of the start of The Craving, pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on The Craving.

13 Yellow Canary

Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing Creekers and finish up the layback crack to the top.

18 The Craving

Climb the black crack starting from the top of the bush to the top.

18 Kalashnikov

Great steep climb. Excellent rock.

14 Plonkers Paradise
16 Rodney

Climb the slightly runout (but easy) face to a rail. Layback up through the roof and keep more or less on the arête to the top. This route is easier than it looks.

Clifton - Right Sector

To the right of the tea cave.

Clifton - Right Sector
19 Beware the Dark Horse

The third pitch on the book says it is a 15 but I had climbed a 17 and 18 pitch before it and those all felt easier than the third pitch, that's why I am suggesting a grade 19 for it. The second pitch is an amazing 18 pitch, really fun.

21 Simba Serendipity
17 Shamba

An aesthetic, short face to the right of the first pitch of Simba. Unfortunately one needs to end with some scrambling to get to the walk off ledge. Can descend easy via the B-Route about 40m to the right.

16 Juggernaut
16 Micronaut
15 Aquanaught
20 Cosmonaut
16 Dreadnaught
Lame Lion
17 Wild Things Run Free
Clifton - Left Sector
Clifton - Left Sector
Naught for Your Comfort
19 Codgernaut
15 Clifton Crest
Clifton - Top Sector
Clifton - Top Sector
19 Astronaut
White Face Sector
White Face Sector
10 White Face
22 Gone with the Wind

Starts about 10m right of the White Face pitch on the level of the Geo Cache Sector, below and just right of a corner with an ominous looking block hanging in the ceiling.

  1. 25m (18) Start up the crack in the short face to a small overlap. Pull through on the right and then rail left to the corner. Move carefully upwards to a rail heading out left (this is below the hanging block in the roof). Traverse left and use a pointed foot prong to pull over the bulge (DO NOT USE THE SUSPENDED BLOCK IN THE ROOF). Continue up to the wide ledge finishing on the last few moves of White Face. Walk across the ledge to the base of a vague arete about 5m left of Wailing Wall P2.

  2. 45m (22) Climb the arete and up to a short face. Negotiate this and then pull up on the left side of the roof. Continue up to easier ground. At a ledge step left onto a featured rock over a small overlap. Continue straight up towards a narrow corner capped by a thin roof. Exit ont he right side of the roof and up to the vegetated ledge.

There is an abseil point 5m right from a tree and touch point.

15 Rumpelstiltskin
  1. From the top a retangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2 meters right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.

  2. Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.

  3. Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing view to the ocean and mountains.

  4. Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.

17 Duly Noted

3m right of Wailing Wall P2 and 2m left of the main fault up White Face is a break running straight to a roof.

  1. 15m, 17:Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.

  2. 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of Wailing Wall. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

20 Salty Sea Lion
  1. ±19m (Grade ±20, Consensus requ.): Start ±5m right of the start of pitch 3 (As per D. Mercer book) of White Face. Climb the short brown face and pull up thru the roof to a cubby hole. Tend 2m right and continue up a layback, step left and climb diagonally right to a large platform. If the layback proves too difficult a variation to the left is about 3 grades easier.

  2. ±23m (Grade ±17, Consensus requ.): Start where the ledge peters out on the right. Climb the right leaning ramp and pass a few rails heading for the prominent V-Groove. Move through this and tend right through steep sections to the small corner. An abseil awaits at the ledge above the corner. Abseil or scramble to top-out.

Aloe Cave Area
Aloe Cave Area
17 Trachylepis

Start 3m right of Rumpelstiltskin. Good climbing, but rather lichenous. Follow the shallow corner to the roof. Step left and pull through a series of rails tending slightly left until the angle eases. Finish on the broad ledge.

17 El Gato

Half way between Rumplestiltskin and the Aloe cave is a large open book. Climb the layback (corner) for a few meters (strenuous/ awkward), then follow the break aiming for a small corner further up , another layback tops you out at at a very scenic medium size & vegetated belay ledge, stance here then 'B' scramble to the top, alternatively don't stance and climb 10M further to the top, less scenic, less coms. but safer.

Geo-Cache Sector
Geo-Cache Sector
18 Ballad of a Teenage Queen
16 Highwayman
17 No Charge

Showing all 54 nodes.

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