Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with Charles Bowker | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | ||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with Justine Cole | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th May 2014 | ||||
18 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
25m
2
18
40m
3
15
30m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
Probably the best route on Lion's Head that goes straight to the top. P1 is amazing and P2 is one of the best at the grade. I would say P3 should be bumped to grade 16.
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
- with
Simon
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | Tue 19th Nov 2019 | |||||
Seconded this and the climbing felt pretty easy for an 18. Chimney on trad lead would have felt exciting though. One to do in future
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with rene Gould marc bromhall | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
19 ~18 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2023 | ||||
An amazing route, following a series of overhangs with some interesting crack climbing. I saw a mouse living inside one of the rails near the top, which gave me a big fright at first! I also learned the importance of tying a stopper knot on your chalk bag, after mine nearly fell off. This route was opened at grade 18, it feels tricky but fair for the grade. If you struggle to read the route and struggle to find rests or hang around figuring out the gear it would probably feel like a pumpy 19.
Beware the loose block after the crux. |
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16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
| 20m | Lion's Head | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
First 16 on trad! | 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Jan 2009 | ||||
6 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Clifton Crack) | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut (Cosmanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Jugurnaught) | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | ||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th May 2007 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Sat 5th May 2007 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Taking Down the Lion) - with Onsight | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Sep 2013 | ||||
Hard to find but Amazing climbing
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15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 8th Oct 2013 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Nov 2013 | ||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Nov 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Feb 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Feb 2014 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2013 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Juggernaught) - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Jun 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Fri 24th Jan 2014 | |||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut - with Justine Cole | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | ||||
19 |
★★ Astronaut
- with
Justine Cole
1
17
10m
2
19
25m
| 35m | Lion's Head | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | |||||
21 |
★★★ Simba Serendipity
1
15
25m
2
21
21m
3
15
18m
4
15
15m
5
17
20m
| 99m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
16 |
★★ Juggernaut
1
14
25m
2
16
25m
3
14
8m
4
14
18m
5
15
30m
| 110m | Lion's Head | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Eyed0LL | 180m | Lion's Head | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut - with Eyed0LL | 130m | Lion's Head | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||||
Only the first pitch
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15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Donovcan | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Feb 2020 | ||||
16 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free
1
17
2
16
3
16
4
15
5
15
| 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut - with Donovan | 110m | Lion's Head | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) - with Donovan | 130m | Lion's Head | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | |||||
16 |
★★ Cub's Cuff
- with
Donovan
1
13
18m
2
15
15m
3
14
20m
4
16
20m
5
13
| 73m | Lion's Head | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||||
18 | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - with M. Lamprecht | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Mar 2021 | ||||
I need to read RD's correctly. Was in a rush before sunset. Harder if you are short.
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15 | ★ Route by T. Hughes | 80m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 16th Feb 2015 | ||||
Eish, been climbing too much so felt a little hard, good none the less, one of the better flowing multi-pitch routes on the Lion
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16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
Good climbing, climbs better than it looks.
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17 | ★ Fighting for a Share - with M. Lamprecht | Lion's Head | Average | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | |||||
Opening new lines where other RD's are not detailed, hmmmmm!
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19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2011 | ||||
My first 19 on Trad WooHoo, bomber gear, positive holds and feet, overhanging/ bold; Amazing quality, a must do on this peak!
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18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | ||||
P1- is good and good gear! P2 has a commiting crux with good pro; P3 is very high quality.
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18 20 | ★★ Cosmonaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 28th Nov 2012 | ||||
Just when u think u wanna head out and climb your first 20 on trad, turns out to be a 18, good fun climb, with good gear in nice exposed postitions.
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16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 16th Jan 2013 | ||||
Nice route for beginners.
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21 | ★★ Night Puff | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Feb 2013 | ||||
Yay first 21 on trad, so amped, did Touch and go last night too, all after work. Will be a great route for winter as access is quick. Great single pitch steep climbing on trad, highly worthwhile.
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20 | ★★ Pride | 58m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2014 | ||||
Yay, took about a year to return, better footwork, knowledge of gear, endurance and strength, P2 is very excellent, albeit short.
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18 | ★★ Greyscaling | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 18th Nov 2014 | ||||
Great climbing if a little scary!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas (Cat's Pajamas) | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Dec 2014 | ||||
One of the better long routes on Lion's Head. The crux pitch, P2 is really good. The balance of the pitches do not look inspiring but are all good. Esp P4 Another cool thing is u can climb P2-18 as a single pitch or link-up, and there is a rap point above, so if u are short on time, it makes an excellent pitch on it's own.
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2 11 | ★ Sunset Crag | 170m | Lion's Head | Crap | Sun 21st Dec 2014 | ||||
Terrible, grassy, loose blocks, don't bother.
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15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Dec 2014 | ||||
Don't bother with the bottom or top pitches, not very good. Pitches from tea cave to top rap point are very good.
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16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jan 2015 | ||||
P1-climbs a little awkward, but still nice and challenging, P2-just scrambling, P3- Is really good. P4 is average and short. If you get to this point, I would suggest heading for the rap anchors on the left. The remaining pitches take you right to the top but are average and vegetated.
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22 | ★★ Simbarama | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Feb 2015 | ||||
Yay, first 22 on trad! Great route too, committing moves thru & over the roof. Highly recommended.
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18 | ★★ Kestrel Country Music-Variation | 93m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | ||||
1-13; P2-14; P3-13; P4-12; P5-18 I did the variation as seemed a better line. Some good little sections that make you think. Seemed a little soft for 18, but I think my reach made it easier as the 2nd struggled!
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18 17 | ★★ Wham Bam | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
P3 has a great crux. Most of the pitches are under-graded, so beware. Pitches above P3 are crap!
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15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Grading seems spot on, although, I found P1 harder than P2, maybe just flash pump. P2 is exceedingly good, just flows so well. P3+4 are good fun with interesting/ testing moves, worth the effort.
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15 | ★★ Tawny | 100m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 14th Feb 2016 | ||||
Very good route for people leading this grade-lots of gear placements. P2 is particularly good. Also one of the top 5 routes for toping out at the summit.
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17 | ★★ My Naut is better than your Naut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 15th Feb 2016 | ||||
Pretty fun if not a little contrived. Rock looked a little dodge in one place but otherwise good. Thought the grading was soft, deffo not SA-18
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15 16 | ★★ Cub's Cuff | 73m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
P1 is rather disapointing, but the rest of the route is pretty good.
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16 | ★ Naughty But Nice | 72m | Lion's Head | Crap | Wed 24th Feb 2016 | ||||
Terrible route on bad rock=dangerous. Also top-out is shitty. Can't believe people open this stuff!
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15 | ★ Mane Lion | 65m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 1st Mar 2016 | ||||
Very good route, needs a brush though. Lots of crack climbing.
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17 16 | ★★★ Lame Lion | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Mar 2016 | ||||
Has been upgraded in the new book 16-->17, which is apt. Very good climbing all round with excellent cruxes.
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18 19 | ★★ Lion's Share (Variation) | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Mar 2016 | ||||
Better than the standard route. I did not find the crux to be 19, I think because I am tall. Nice crack climbing.
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17 | ★★★ Black and Weight | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Mar 2016 | ||||
Suprisingly good climbing.
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19 | ★★★ Codgernaut | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th May 2016 | ||||
Very good climbing. Both pitches are quite scary in places, but worth it. No OS on this as done P1 before as a 2nd.
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17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | ||||
P1-3 are very good. P4-5 are crap. Worthwhile doing the first 3.
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2011 | ||||
Trad Very cool pitch
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25 | ★★★ Mane Course | 25m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | ||||
Trad Best pitch i've done on Lion's Head. Did it on pre-placed gear (not a planned ascent) and technically not a flash as I checked out the moves on the lip while lowering down Pride Breaker.
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24 | ★★ Pride Breaker | 25m | Lion's Head | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||||
#2go Trad Almost onsighted. A big loose block got in the way. Scariest moment as it went trundling down the mountain looking like it'll never stop.
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15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Henk | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Yitzchak en Kobus | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | ||||
15 | ★ Mane Lion | 65m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity - with N. Abrahams | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
climbed from Gendarme ledge.
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19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - with Peter | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Excalibur | 38m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
Blew the onsight and fell at the crux. Did get the redpoint second go.
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19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas | 120m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Josh. Just climbed crux pitch. Got rope drag and had to split crux pitch into two with a mid level hanging belay. Guess it's good to practice building those.
Trad |
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15 |
★★★ Clifton Crest
- with
Emma
5
15
36m
| 36m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||
Climbed Gendarme pitch with Emma. Did my trad course on this route in 2018. Amazing how chilled, relaxed and fun this felt today. Emma had to push but did a great job. Awesome 5 star climbing. Had seconded this before so marked as redpoint.
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19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - with Josh Sowter | 35m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
I found this hard, really complex lead and after the second roof the traverse was way harder than it looked. Very cool route. But high in the grade, maybe a 20.
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15 |
★★★ Aquanaut
- with
Josh Sowter
2
15
35m
| 35m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
Josh wanted to climb as was his first ever trad climb. Climbed on nuts and two cam as this is what he had back then. I climbed in approach shoes.
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15 |
★★★ Aquanaut
- with
Simon
1
14
30m
2
15
35m
| 65m | Lion's Head | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | |||||
Second pitch. Felt much easier than expected, first lead with new partner. Was good to have him help with route finding and rope clipping suggestions. Felt like the two ropes makes sense to me now. First time climbing with Simon.
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