Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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25 | |||||||||
25 | ★★★ Mane Course | 25m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | ||||
Trad Best pitch i've done on Lion's Head. Did it on pre-placed gear (not a planned ascent) and technically not a flash as I checked out the moves on the lip while lowering down Pride Breaker.
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24 | |||||||||
24 | ★★ Pride Breaker | 25m | Lion's Head | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||||
#2go Trad Almost onsighted. A big loose block got in the way. Scariest moment as it went trundling down the mountain looking like it'll never stop.
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22 | |||||||||
22 | ★★ Simbarama | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Feb 2015 | ||||
Yay, first 22 on trad! Great route too, committing moves thru & over the roof. Highly recommended.
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22 | ★★★ Excalibur | 38m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
Blew the onsight and fell at the crux. Did get the redpoint second go.
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22 | ★★ Simbarama - with Timothy Larsen | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Oct 2022 | ||||
An exciting route
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21 | |||||||||
21 |
★★★ Simba Serendipity
1
15
25m
2
21
21m
3
15
18m
4
15
15m
5
17
20m
| 99m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
21 | ★★ Night Puff | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Feb 2013 | ||||
Yay first 21 on trad, so amped, did Touch and go last night too, all after work. Will be a great route for winter as access is quick. Great single pitch steep climbing on trad, highly worthwhile.
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2011 | ||||
Trad Very cool pitch
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity - with N. Abrahams | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
climbed from Gendarme ledge.
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20 | |||||||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut (Cosmanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut - with Justine Cole | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Cosmonaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 28th Nov 2012 | ||||
Just when u think u wanna head out and climb your first 20 on trad, turns out to be a 18, good fun climb, with good gear in nice exposed postitions.
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20 | ★★ Pride | 58m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2014 | ||||
Yay, took about a year to return, better footwork, knowledge of gear, endurance and strength, P2 is very excellent, albeit short.
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19 ~18 | ★★ Pride - with Michelle Lopes | 40m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||
Did pitch 2 and 3 of Pride, thinking I was getting on Clifton Crest. Super enjoyable.
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20 |
★★ Pride
- with
BruceMD
2
20
10
3
15
30
| 40m | Lion's Head | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | |||||
19 | |||||||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with Charles Bowker | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | ||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with Justine Cole | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th May 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★ Astronaut
- with
Justine Cole
1
17
10m
2
19
25m
| 35m | Lion's Head | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
25m
2
18
40m
3
15
30m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2011 | ||||
My first 19 on Trad WooHoo, bomber gear, positive holds and feet, overhanging/ bold; Amazing quality, a must do on this peak!
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18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
Probably the best route on Lion's Head that goes straight to the top. P1 is amazing and P2 is one of the best at the grade. I would say P3 should be bumped to grade 16.
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18 19 | ★★ Lion's Share (Variation) | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Mar 2016 | ||||
Better than the standard route. I did not find the crux to be 19, I think because I am tall. Nice crack climbing.
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19 | ★★★ Codgernaut | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th May 2016 | ||||
Very good climbing. Both pitches are quite scary in places, but worth it. No OS on this as done P1 before as a 2nd.
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - with Peter | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - with Josh Sowter | 35m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
I found this hard, really complex lead and after the second roof the traverse was way harder than it looked. Very cool route. But high in the grade, maybe a 20.
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19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
- with
Simon
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | Tue 19th Nov 2019 | |||||
Seconded this and the climbing felt pretty easy for an 18. Chimney on trad lead would have felt exciting though. One to do in future
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - with rene Gould marc bromhall | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Codgernaut | 45m | Lion's Head | Tue 27th Dec 2022 | |||||
19 ~18 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2023 | ||||
An amazing route, following a series of overhangs with some interesting crack climbing. I saw a mouse living inside one of the rails near the top, which gave me a big fright at first! I also learned the importance of tying a stopper knot on your chalk bag, after mine nearly fell off. This route was opened at grade 18, it feels tricky but fair for the grade. If you struggle to read the route and struggle to find rests or hang around figuring out the gear it would probably feel like a pumpy 19.
Beware the loose block after the crux. |
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16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
| 20m | Lion's Head | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
First 16 on trad! | 20m | Lion's Head | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
19 | ★★ Relic News - with Eyed0LL | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Unique features make for good moves off the ground. Great cruxes that are committing in places. Also contrived in places as you can move around to get rests on other lines.
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19 Hard | ★★★ Fin Fiesta — 2 attempts - with Aimée Chiat Hook | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
What a great route. I have been putting it off as it looks hard. I've climbed the line to the left which was hard, so I thought this would be too. It is challenging in quite a few places and does not let up till the end.
Has to rate as one of the best lines on Lion's Head. |
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18 | |||||||||
18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - with M. Lamprecht | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Mar 2021 | ||||
I need to read RD's correctly. Was in a rush before sunset. Harder if you are short.
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18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | ||||
P1- is good and good gear! P2 has a commiting crux with good pro; P3 is very high quality.
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18 | ★★ Greyscaling | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Tue 18th Nov 2014 | ||||
Great climbing if a little scary!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas (Cat's Pajamas) | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Dec 2014 | ||||
One of the better long routes on Lion's Head. The crux pitch, P2 is really good. The balance of the pitches do not look inspiring but are all good. Esp P4 Another cool thing is u can climb P2-18 as a single pitch or link-up, and there is a rap point above, so if u are short on time, it makes an excellent pitch on it's own.
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18 | ★★ Kestrel Country Music-Variation | 93m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | ||||
1-13; P2-14; P3-13; P4-12; P5-18 I did the variation as seemed a better line. Some good little sections that make you think. Seemed a little soft for 18, but I think my reach made it easier as the 2nd struggled!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas | 120m | Lion's Head | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Josh. Just climbed crux pitch. Got rope drag and had to split crux pitch into two with a mid level hanging belay. Guess it's good to practice building those.
Trad |
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18 Hard | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - with Cormac Tooze | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
Lekker Route, would be cool to do it again.
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18 | ★★ Rainbow Strate - with Eyed0LL | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||||
P1 is really good climbing, but you can shift around onto the other routes to get good rests, so in this sense it is a little contrived. The crux has really nice moves and is committing.
P2 was quite testy is places, also good quality of climbing.
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17 | |||||||||
17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free
1
17
2
16
3
16
4
15
5
15
| 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
17 | ★ Fighting for a Share - with M. Lamprecht | Lion's Head | Average | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | |||||
Opening new lines where other RD's are not detailed, hmmmmm!
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18 17 | ★★ Wham Bam | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
P3 has a great crux. Most of the pitches are under-graded, so beware. Pitches above P3 are crap!
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17 | ★★ My Naut is better than your Naut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 15th Feb 2016 | ||||
Pretty fun if not a little contrived. Rock looked a little dodge in one place but otherwise good. Thought the grading was soft, deffo not SA-18
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17 | ★★★ Black and Weight | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Mar 2016 | ||||
Suprisingly good climbing.
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17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | ||||
P1-3 are very good. P4-5 are crap. Worthwhile doing the first 3.
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17 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free P1
- with
Dalene van Staden
1
17
25m
| 25m | Lion's Head | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | |||||
16 | |||||||||
18 16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Jugurnaught) | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Juggernaught) - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Jun 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught - with Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
16 |
★★ Juggernaut
1
14
25m
2
16
25m
3
14
8m
4
14
18m
5
15
30m
| 110m | Lion's Head | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut - with Donovan | 110m | Lion's Head | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | |||||
16 |
★★ Cub's Cuff
- with
Donovan
1
13
18m
2
15
15m
3
14
20m
4
16
20m
5
13
| 73m | Lion's Head | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||||
16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
Good climbing, climbs better than it looks.
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16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Wed 16th Jan 2013 | ||||
Nice route for beginners.
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16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jan 2015 | ||||
P1-climbs a little awkward, but still nice and challenging, P2-just scrambling, P3- Is really good. P4 is average and short. If you get to this point, I would suggest heading for the rap anchors on the left. The remaining pitches take you right to the top but are average and vegetated.
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15 16 | ★★ Cub's Cuff | 73m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
P1 is rather disapointing, but the rest of the route is pretty good.
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16 | ★ Naughty But Nice | 72m | Lion's Head | Crap | Wed 24th Feb 2016 | ||||
Terrible route on bad rock=dangerous. Also top-out is shitty. Can't believe people open this stuff!
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17 16 | ★★★ Lame Lion | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Mar 2016 | ||||
Has been upgraded in the new book 16-->17, which is apt. Very good climbing all round with excellent cruxes.
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16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 65m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut - with mike owen | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Apr 2023 | ||||
Onsighted Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 on different days…both superb pitches so cant understand only 2 stars..pitch 2 has a fantastic climb up to an exposed traverse which then moves into a corner for a perfect finish up to a large belay ledge. Climbed with Mike Champion
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16 |
★★ Juggernaut P2
- with
Dalene van Staden
2
16
25m
| 25m | Lion's Head | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | |||||
15 | |||||||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Jan 2009 | ||||
6 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Clifton Crack) | 200m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th May 2007 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Sat 5th May 2007 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Taking Down the Lion) - with Onsight | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Sep 2013 | ||||
Hard to find but Amazing climbing
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15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Tue 8th Oct 2013 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Nov 2013 | ||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Nov 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Feb 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Feb 2014 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2013 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Fri 24th Jan 2014 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Eyed0LL | 180m | Lion's Head | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut - with Eyed0LL | 130m | Lion's Head | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||||
Only the first pitch
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15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - with Donovcan | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Feb 2020 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) - with Donovan | 130m | Lion's Head | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | |||||
15 | ★ Route by T. Hughes | 80m | Lion's Head | ★ Good | Mon 16th Feb 2015 | ||||
Eish, been climbing too much so felt a little hard, good none the less, one of the better flowing multi-pitch routes on the Lion
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