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Description

All single pitch.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: R. Suter, 2004

Descent Route on the left.

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above. NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.

FA: G. Paterson-Jones, 2011

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

Climb a direct line up the face directly between Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship and Drive on.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett, 25 Nov 2011

FA: Unknown

Start halfway between Drive on and Egg-Sucking Dog. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight through the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey, 21 Nov 2011

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

Directly in between Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce. Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.

FA: H. Davies, 2009

FA: H. Davies & S. Pinfield, 2009

FA: R. Suter & D. Mecer, 2007

FA: R. Suter, 2004

FA: D. Mecer & R. Suter, 2007

Start up Feline for a few moves then step right and arc up the face to a ledge. Straight up to the roof. Pull through the roof (minimal gear) and straight to top.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Aug 2019

Start ~4m right of Feline. Head up the ramp to the vague, blunt arete.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Straite, Aug 2019

FA: S. Pinfield & H. Davies, 2009

FA: S. Pinfield & H. Davies, 2009

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

The arête right of Junkie and Juicehead. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top.

FA: R. Halsey, 2011

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

FA: Unknown, Oct 2015

The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

FA: W. Gans & A. Hills, 11 Nov 2011

FA: Unknown

This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offer good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.

FA: L. Flemming, 14 Apr 2013

Start on the undercut face right of Mean Eyed Cat. A series of small holds (and even smaller gear) takes you to the base of a small hanging arete/buttress. follow this to the obvious crack that is the end of Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat. Fun Line!

FA: S. Cunnane & W. Gans, Jul 2016

Starts 3-4m right of Mean Eyed Cat (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is most likely impossible for dwarfs. Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof.

FA: W. Gans, 9 Jun 2012

Starting 2-3m right of Cash's is a vague fault below the open book right of Cash's. A powerful start takes one to the open book & on to the top.

FA: W. Gans, 2012

Instead of starting on No Charge start about 2m left on at the overlap with the undercling lip. Pull through this to a thin rail, then dead straight until you join BB at the small fin/open book. Don't wimp out and use the big holds on the left, they belong to Hang My Head: There is a whole sequence of beautiful subtle moves on that section! If you are cunning with small gear there is pro in the first 5m, however, it may be easier to just solo until the hard stuff is over. Route may be harder for the shorties, but probably better too.

FA: W. Gans, Apr 2015

Climbs the seam on the wall between “Hung my Head” and “No Charge”. Start: Climb the awkward start of “No Charge”. At the cubby-hole, move left and up through a narrow roof, pick up the thin seam on steepish wall to the top.

FA: D. van Zyl, B. Daniel & T. Dick, 4 Sep 2013

FA: Unknown

Start a metre left of Orphan of the Road and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up.

FA: R. Halsey, 2011

A squeeze between Cash Connection and Orphan of the Road. Startup Cash Connection and step right to pull past left side of the low, small, square roof. Follow a vague seam, which is left and parallel to the Orphan of the Road crack. A tad run out. From the ledge straight to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Aug 2019

FA: Unknown

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of Orphan of the Road. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence.

FA: R. Halsey, 2011

FA: Unknown

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