Aloe Cave Area

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 16




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Start 3m right of Rumpelstiltskin. Good climbing, but rather lichenous. Follow the shallow corner to the roof. Step left and pull through a series of rails tending slightly left until the angle eases. Finish on the broad ledge.

FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017

Half way between Rumplestiltskin and the Aloe cave is a large open book. Climb the layback (corner) for a few meters (strenuous/ awkward), then follow the break aiming for a small corner further up , another layback tops you out at at a very scenic medium size & vegetated belay ledge, stance here then 'B' scramble to the top, alternatively don't stance and climb 10M further to the top, less scenic, less coms. but safer.

FA: Cormac Tooze & L. Griessen, 9 Nov 2015

1 13 20m
2 11 12m
3 13 10m
4 13 12m
5 8 12m

FA: E. Morkel & J. Wilson, 1970

FA: Unknown, 1900

An aesthetic, short face to the right of the first pitch of Simba. Unfortunately one needs to end with some scrambling to get to the walk off ledge. Can descend easy via the B-Route about 40m to the right.

FA: R. Halsey, Dec 2017

1 12 12m
2 14 30m
3 12 40m

FA: L. Patrick & A. Killick, 1968

1 14 25m
2 15 25m
3 15 25m

FA: Unknown

1 18 25m
2 16 12m
3 22 35m
4 13 25m

FA: D. Vallet & D. Mecer, 2006

1 12 17m
2 10 40m
3 12 26m
4 12 24m

When looking left from the lookout corner, this starts just at the ridge-line/sky-line where a slab leans against the cliff. Start up the left side of the slab.

  1. 13, 17m. Up the left side of the slab (be careful of loose blocks) then step right, then up a finger crack to belay on a platform.

  2. 11, 40m. Scramble straight up to an obvious clean break of darker rock between two lichenous faces, then up this and walk 4m left to belay on a ledge below an overhang.

  3. 13, 26m. Traverse awkwardly right under the roof, then up a clean crack to a ledge, then traverse somewhat less awkwardly (though over some loose blocks) and under a roof leftwards to belay in a comfortable corner with a roof.

  4. 13, 24m. Climb up the left side to escape past the roof to a platform, scramble up to a gully to the right, then up to the top.

Descent: scramble to the summit and hike down or walk rightwards to the rappel anchors (they are one level down with reasonable down-climb marked by cairns). 2x60m recommended. Just possible with 1x60m.

FA: J. Cluistra & J. Wilson, 1969


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tony Lourens

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780987040343

This is a selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing found in the Western Cape of South Africa, covering over 1,350 routes

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