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Routes in Lion's Head for selected grade

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Granite
15 Huguenot Face
Trad 70m
15 Huguenot Wall

Classic easy route on Lion's head granite.

Trad 70m, 3
15 PROT:X Raincheck

Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance. There is no pro.

FA: Richard Halsey, 2010

Trad
15 Rumpelstiltskin
Trad
15 Encore 3

FA:

Trad 25m
Sandstone Lookout Sector
15 Bantry Crag Trad 3
Sandstone
15 Feline Trad 15m
15 Taking Down the Lion

Follow path up until you see the ladder about 50 meters away. up to your right will be a a crack/slab climb.

  1. Follow this crack on slopery and ledgy holds until topout.

  2. Pitch two starts about 100 meters righ of pitch 1's topout. It is a slab climb with a crack on your left, good for placing gear. Slightly mossy and wet during the winter. Topout onto a large ledge.

  3. Pitch up right following crimpy holds with good friction. Amazing exposure further up on the pitch with great gear (when repitching look for broken rock, courtesy of terrible anchor).

  4. Pitch four starts five meter right. First 30 meters resembles a scramble but the last 20 is beautiful climbing up a chimney-like crack. The moves are... unique. DO NOT TRUST WEDGED BOULDERS!!

  5. Scramble out on a steep grassy incline. More cautious climbers may want to pitch this. All in all, great climb with good gear.

FA: Luke (Dave) Davis & Daniel Basel, 22 Sep 2013

Trad 200m, 5
Sandstone Clifton - Right Sector
15 Aquanaught Trad 150m
Sandstone Clifton - Left Sector
15 Clifton Crest
1 11 12m
2 14 35m
3 15 10m
4 15 23m
5 15 36m
6 13 20m
7 14 20m
8 8 40m
Trad 200m, 8
Sandstone White Face Sector
15 Rumpelstiltskin
1 15 20m
2 14 20m
3 13 15m
4 12 15m
  1. From the top a retangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2 meters right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.

  2. Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.

  3. Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing view to the ocean and mountains.

  4. Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.

Trad 70m, 4

Showing all 11 routes.

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