Routes in Lion's Head for selected grade

Glue-in lower-offs added and some glue-in anchors.

Plumb line between the second pitch of 'Beware the Dark Horse' & 'Blueberry Hill'.

Start between 'Beware the Dark Horse' and 'Blueberry Hill'. Climb up to a triangular undercling on the first overlap 3m up. From the ledge, gain the blank looking face directly above and stay left of the crumbly flakes, going onto good jugs – you run it out a bit at this point (there are some micro nut placements if you have time to fiddle with gear) - the hard pull onto the face is right above good gear though, and the jugs higher up are bomber. Hold the line straight through the undercut crack system (crux) that is capped by a small triangular roof; and then onto the belay ledge – there is a threaded abseil point from which to belay.

Single pitch just right of Simba Serendipity P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail.

Surprisingly good, and tricksy. Climbs the wall and arête to the right of And the Living is Easy. Follow the rib to the wide rail, Hard moves onto the face above lead to rails. Continue up the arête (flakes on the face to the left are loose). Small cams are useful higher up.

Starts as per Political Solution. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails. Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.

A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above. NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.

Start halfway between Drive on and Egg-Sucking Dog. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight through the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

Directly in between Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce. Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.

Start up Feline for a few moves then step right and arc up the face to a ledge. Straight up to the roof. Pull through the roof (minimal gear) and straight to top.

The arête right of Junkie and Juicehead. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top.

This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offer good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.

Instead of starting on No Charge start about 2m left on at the overlap with the undercling lip. Pull through this to a thin rail, then dead straight until you join BB at the small fin/open book. Don't wimp out and use the big holds on the left, they belong to Hang My Head: There is a whole sequence of beautiful subtle moves on that section! If you are cunning with small gear there is pro in the first 5m, however, it may be easier to just solo until the hard stuff is over. Route may be harder for the shorties, but probably better too.

Starts about 10m right of the White Face pitch on the level of the Geo Cache Sector, below and just right of a corner with an ominous looking block hanging in the ceiling.

1. 25m (18) Start up the crack in the short face to a small overlap. Pull through on the right and then rail left to the corner. Move carefully upwards to a rail heading out left (this is below the hanging block in the roof). Traverse left and use a pointed foot prong to pull over the bulge (DO NOT USE THE SUSPENDED BLOCK IN THE ROOF). Continue up to the wide ledge finishing on the last few moves of White Face. Walk across the ledge to the base of a vague arete about 5m left of Wailing Wall P2.

2. 45m (22) Climb the arete and up to a short face. Negotiate this and then pull up on the left side of the roof. Continue up to easier ground. At a ledge step left onto a featured rock over a small overlap. Continue straight up towards a narrow corner capped by a thin roof. Exit ont he right side of the roof and up to the vegetated ledge.

There is an abseil point 5m right from a tree and touch point.

Climb the L town side arete.

Climb the crack to the R of 1 to meet up with 1 and TO.

Climb the middle of the face to TO.

Climb the R bulge of the boulder on the mountain side to TO.