Routes in Cape Town for selected grade

Sitstart on a low ledge. RH to the rail and then LH up to a sidepull jug.

Standing start. Climb up the center of the slab starting from the dent in the rock.

Sit-start with arête and climb up.

Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.

Stand start and climb the face using the good rail to TO.

Climbs the arete on the right end of the face

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

You will need to walk about the length of the route along the ledge to find anything resembling an anchor.

Classic.

Stand start and climb the scooped out face. 'AA: Golden Glow' is behind you.

Standing start, climb the black slab with your back to 'Amazing Grace'.

Start on the beach side. Bum start, climb the right tending crack.

Start on the West side. Bum start below where the pink meets the grey rock. Left hand on jug or coarse side pull, straight up to top out.

The 'warm-up' corner crack.

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

Reach/jump to holds in hollow, climb diagonally left to TO.

SS, climb R up corner, TO.

Climb the middle of the slab

Sit-start with left hand on a gaston and right hand on a sidepull and climb the good looking arête.

Sit-start with left hand on an incut grip and right hand pinching the arête, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on a good incut and right hand on an incut, left hand to a diagonal ledge and move up to a sidepull on the slab.

Sit-start a little right of Unnamed Arête with right hand up on a layaway pinch and climb the arête / slab to top-out.

Sit-start hugging the corner with left hand on a sidepull and right hand on a bad sloper. The big low footgrips are off.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

Another moderate route well worth doing. For the most part the line takes the vague arete. The route was originally done in 7 pitches, and so the modern version is described below.

Start: the line basically starts on the right corner of the front face of the buttress, but to get there traverse right around the corner, scramble up a short corner to an earth platform with a large tree. this is Just right of the prominent red face where Enterprise starts.

1. Climb the recess to the overhang, then move left onto a sitting ledge, which narrows as it runs out onto a jutting nose. Move around the nose, then up to a good stance.

2. Move 3m left to a sharp-edged boulder. Move up a meter, then back right and up an obvious fault that runs left to a stance.

3. 18m (12) Move slightly right and up to skirt the overhang, then traverse 5m right and up a gap between two blocks. Traverse about 12m right along a wide ledge to a stance at the end.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

"A popular route for the average party."

Start: 10m left of Barrier Cave was a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Climb the face slightly right of the tree, moving left towards the top.

2. From the ledge directly above the tree climb up and diagonally right.

3. Straight up through a gap in the overhang, continue to the gully.

4. Climb the sheer but easy face which faces Barrier Ravine.

5. From 4m behind the last stance climb through a wormhole to a ledge From there climb on the right and then in the gully facing Barrier Ravine. Walk to Upper Buttress. Approach via the minor rock steps between the bushy ledge to the right of the amphitheatre. When two steps up, bear left until directly below s large overhang chimney on the buttress above.

6. The face on the right of the bushy recess is climbed. Walk to the left for a few meters.

7. A white open book recess. start on the left wall, end on the right wall.

8. Walk left along the ledge until it peters out. Climb via a jutting out flake to the broad ledge above. Walk to the left for 12m.

9. Climb the vertical while face for 6m to a narrow ledge. Traverse along this to the right for 12 to the base of a crack. Step right onto the lip of the overhang, move up 1m, then left to the crack which is then climbed to the stance 15m above.

10. The Grooved Traverse Pitch: Climb the chimney for 3m until under the overhang. swing left for 3m on good holds, at the corner ease into the groove, then continue along and down for a total of 7m into the head of the gully.

11. Traverse left along a narrow exposed ledge. Walk about 12m left.

12. Climb first the right then the left wall to the top of a deep chimney. Behind is another short chimney which exists on the left.

Allow plenty of time to find the start.

Start: The route lies up the curved rib which is capped by an overhang, 12m right of Valken Ravine (Right-Hand Route), and to the left of Kasteels Gully. (take the Valken Ravine approach).

1. [9] 18m

   "Black Face Pitch." Climb the black face 13m right of Valken Ravine waterfall. Walk left to a corner 5m right of the Right-Hand Route.

2. [15] 28m

   Climb the corner to an overhanging flake. Step up onto the flake, then move up to a higher foot rail. Traverse right for 6m and climb s clean face with a tricky finish. Walk right for 19m to the next beacon beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 30m

   Climb a short distance up a crack beneath the overhang, then diagonally left. Once above the level of the overhang, move right, then climb an easy face.

4. [9] 8m

   Climb the corner directly move to a stance shared with Valken Ravine RH. One is now beneath the prominent bulge on Castle Rib.

5. [13] 15m

   A few overhanging moves on the right of the bulge enables on to traverse to a chimney, which is then taken to complete the route.

Pleasant with clean but discontinuous climbing.

Start: At a large, thin white flake resting against the wall, directly below the big corner cutting right up the buttress to the Halfway Ledge. This is about 22m right of the Drip in the Cave.

1. Climb diagonally left to a platform.

2. Climb back right to a ledge, then up the clean corner directly above the start.

3. Climb the square column of prongs and blocks at the back of the ledge.

4. Climb the steep corner next to some blocks, then traverse right, across a face for quite a distance, until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk/crawl left along the ledge right across the front of the buttress, until the ledge opens up at a corner strewn with blocks. The first easy break here - an undercut crack/recess leading to some large yellowwoods in the big chimney alcove above.

5. A strenuous pull up from the top of a sloping block, using small grips, enables one tot reach larger flakes into the crack on the left. Climb to the stance next to the yellowwood trees.

6. Climb the right wall of the alcove, then move right and up a grassy face to a small stance below and right of a bulging crack.

7. Step into the crack below the bulging section of rock, turn the bulge on the left and climb to a large flat block platform. Scramble left and around the corner, or straight to the top.

"A climb worth more attention."

Start: a beacon will be found left of centre of the face between Fraser's and Postern "D".

1. Climb over a bulging and slightly undercut section into a crack and up to a little overhang 6m above the ground. Head right and slightly up 3m, followed by 9m of open face climbing to a narrow ledge.

2. Move up from underneath a slight overhang, over friction holds onto a bushy ledge.

3. Climb right under a small rock finger and onto a protruding block, then up the ledge of another series of blocks onto another bushy ledge.

4. Step up a slightly recessed face for 7m, then move left of an obvious flake and traverse right 4m over a handrail and up to the Halfway Ledge.

5. From the right edge of the blocks, and directly beneath a large overhang. Move up 1m or so, the traverse left onto a rib. Ascend the crack 3m, then move round the rock rib and stretch onto a short traverse to the right. A few easy movements lead onto the left of the ledge on which the "overhang" pitch of "D" Route finishes.

6. Starting on the face forming the left closing edge of the ledge, climb up to the final beacon.

Start on Podocarpus and head right into the large, vague corner, and follow this to the roof. Move right and exit up the layback to the top.

Route with a country feel to it. Some friable rock though good overall (with some lichenous section). Right side of south wall. In the shade most of the day.

1. 13 - 25m

2. 14 - 30m

3. 14 - 50m

4. 16 - 30m

5. 12 - 25m

6. 13 - 30m

7. 11 - 35m

Descent: at the top, head East and find the Apostle's path. Take right, following this South, towards Grootkop. Before reaching Grootkop, at the fork take a right again, heading West, and follow a narrow but clear path that leads to Oudekraal Ravine. Take right and descend Oudekraal Ravine and back to the base of Corridor Buttress.

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 8m

3. [12] 11m

4. [14] 18m

5. [11]

Pages 37-43 MCSA Journal 1925

Pages 152-153 MCSA Journal 1967

1. [15] 30m

2. [13] 10m

3. [12] 18m

4. [13] 12m

5. [14] 12m

6. [12] 9m

7. [13] 25m

1. [12] 30m

2. [15] 22m

3. Dassie crawl

4. [14] 12m

5. [14] 6m

6. [15] 30m

7. [14] 6m

8. [15] 10m

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 22m

3. [14] 15m

4. [12] 22m

5. [11] 25m

6. [13] 20m

The climb commences on the white face just to thw left of the Lily Pond.

P1 & 2 can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Africa Wall, bringing the grade down to 13.

1. [15] 25m Previuosly 2 pitches. Pull up on the white fae on horizontal holds. Move right into the groove. Climb up with an awkward move up on a sloping ledge, then a delicate move up on tiny footholds on the rib on the right to reach the handgrips on the top. Exit up right on to the stance. Traverse across left and out on to the projecting platform on the nose

2. [11] 28m Climb the face to the broad Upper Africa Ledge. Now walk across to the left to the base of a chminey, facing the cable station. in the huge nose.

3. [10] 23m Climb 8m up the chimney and traverse out left around the corner for 12m and move up to a small stance on the edge of a diagonal crack on the side of the nose.

4. [13] 36m Pull up from the stance and traverse up and across left to a tiny platform on the front edge of the noae. Pull up through an overhang on to the crest of the nose above, and continue up the right-hand ednge until possible to move up onto a ledge stance with a huge block on it. (It is also possible to move up using a recess just right of the actual crest of the nose instead of pulling up from the tiny platform.

5. [12] 20m From the back of the stance step slightly down and to the left, climb a crack to a horizontal handrail. Traverse left on the corner, then climb the easy face above to a large ledge.

6. [9] 15m A grass covered face behind the ledge is now climbed from right to left into a gully leading to behind a large block. Climbing out around the back of this blockand on to the front of it leads to easy rock to the top.

1. [14] 9m

2. [15] 24m

3. [14] 6m

4. [14] 35m

5. [15] 28m

6. [14] 9m

7. [12] 23m

Follow the approach route following the base of the wall until reach a small cave with a small metal plate sign. From there keep going up in a vague path through the bushes until reach a wall with 3 big cracks on it. The one to the right is Millions. the small one with a few grassy bushes growing out of it is Silloette crack (the middle one does not look good for climbing). This is a good route full of protection and nice and easy moves.

1. Climb the small crack all the way up and smear up after the crack starts to turn back down. Build your anchor at some big blocks at the top.

Classic easy route on Lion's head granite.

Start at the obvious leaning pillar 5 metres right of Gwilym's Rest.

1. Climb the leaning pillar and continue up the crack to a big leaning flake. Traverse right below the flake and then up onto a narrow ledge. Move right to a bolted stance.

2. Climb the crack to the right of the bolts and continue slightly left up an easy slab, then over some blocks on an earthy ledge. Climb a short, knobbly face to belay from a good ledge below a prominent right-facing layback. One can scramble off left at this point.

3. Layback up the corner and step left at the top. Climb onto a razor-thin flake and, stepping right, continue up the face above, aiming for a thin, exfoliating flake. Above and slightly left of this, a very thin crack up a smooth friction face takes you to a ledge in a depression at the top of the route.

Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the 'Huguenot Wall (Variation)' , directly to the bolted stance. There is no pro.

Can just be done in one pitch with a 50m rope.

Climb the obvious crack on the Southern aspect of the boulder

Climb the thinner crack on the left. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level.

Start by laybacking over a large block. Continue up and to the left of some loose-ish blocks (take care!!). Finish up the vague corner to the left.

Follow a recess passing a bush. Follow the crack, and then the face left of the big succulent. Step back right to the crack under the large grass tuft. Follow the crack and exit to the right of climbers friend bush on top. Listed originally as one pitch, but you will have to be very bold to scramble after the actual climb.

Follow the crack line all the way, to the left of the wide recess in the orange wall.

The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of Cold War. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.

To the left of the large recess on the corner overlooking the Lion's Rump is a blocky protruding face. It is this face that has a lichenous white patch on it from which 'White Face' drivers its name. The route starts up a crack to the left of the middle of the face.

1. 14 10m:

   Climb the crack which has an undercut start, to a narrow ledge bout 6m up. Move 3-4m to belay where the ledge widens.

2. 15 18m:

   Climb up just left of the corner on the right of the ledge tending left to a higher ledge. Walk left to a thin free-standing block. Step off this and mantle up the short wall above. Climb to the overhang and pass this on the right. Continue to the ledge above. The next pitch starts up the face to the left of the obvious corner crack on pitch 5 of 'Sea Point Face'

3. 15 40m:

   Climb the overhanging face on good holds till able to move around the corner on the left. Continue up just left of the corner close to 'White Face'final pitch. Scramble to the top.

1. 15 20m:

   From the top of a rectangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2m right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.

2. 13 20m:

   . Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.

3. 12 15m:

   Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing views of the ocean and mountains.

4. 11 15m:

   Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.