Routes in Cape Town for selected grade

Sitstart on a low ledge. RH to the rail and then LH up to a sidepull jug.

Standing start. Climb up the center of the slab starting from the dent in the rock.

Sit-start with arête and climb up.

Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.

Stand start and climb the face using the good rail to TO.

Climbs the arete on the right end of the face

Bolts have been removed, route is unmaintained

Classic.

Start with your back to 'Blue Shadow'. There is a large flake at the base, this was not used.

Climb the vague recess up the slab.

Standing start opposite 'Gaffie Skop Mis', climb the slab over "speed bumps".

Standing start, climb the right side corner/ slab.

Start opposite 'Offwidth'.

Climb the break to the top.

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

Reach/jump to holds in hollow, climb diagonally left to TO.

SS, climb R up corner, TO.

Climb the middle of the slab

Sit-start with left hand on a gaston and right hand on a sidepull and climb the good looking arête.

Sit-start with left hand on an incut grip and right hand pinching the arête, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on a good incut and right hand on an incut, left hand to a diagonal ledge and move up to a sidepull on the slab.

Sit-start a little right of Unnamed Arête with right hand up on a layaway pinch and climb the arête / slab to top-out.

Sit-start hugging the corner with left hand on a sidepull and right hand on a bad sloper. The big low footgrips are off.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

Another moderate route well worth doing. For the most part the line takes the vague arete. The route was originally done in 7 pitches, and so the modern version is described below.

Start: the line basically starts on the right corner of the front face of the buttress, but to get there traverse right around the corner, scramble up a short corner to an earth platform with a large tree. this is Just right of the prominent red face where Enterprise starts.

1. Climb the recess to the overhang, then move left onto a sitting ledge, which narrows as it runs out onto a jutting nose. Move around the nose, then up to a good stance.

2. Move 3m left to a sharp-edged boulder. Move up a meter, then back right and up an obvious fault that runs left to a stance.

3. 18m (12) Move slightly right and up to skirt the overhang, then traverse 5m right and up a gap between two blocks. Traverse about 12m right along a wide ledge to a stance at the end.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

"A popular route for the average party."

Start: 10m left of Barrier Cave was a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Climb the face slightly right of the tree, moving left towards the top.

2. From the ledge directly above the tree climb up and diagonally right.

3. Straight up through a gap in the overhang, continue to the gully.

4. Climb the sheer but easy face which faces Barrier Ravine.

5. From 4m behind the last stance climb through a wormhole to a ledge From there climb on the right and then in the gully facing Barrier Ravine. Walk to Upper Buttress. Approach via the minor rock steps between the bushy ledge to the right of the amphitheatre. When two steps up, bear left until directly below s large overhang chimney on the buttress above.

6. The face on the right of the bushy recess is climbed. Walk to the left for a few meters.

7. A white open book recess. start on the left wall, end on the right wall.

8. Walk left along the ledge until it peters out. Climb via a jutting out flake to the broad ledge above. Walk to the left for 12m.

9. Climb the vertical while face for 6m to a narrow ledge. Traverse along this to the right for 12 to the base of a crack. Step right onto the lip of the overhang, move up 1m, then left to the crack which is then climbed to the stance 15m above.

10. The Grooved Traverse Pitch: Climb the chimney for 3m until under the overhang. swing left for 3m on good holds, at the corner ease into the groove, then continue along and down for a total of 7m into the head of the gully.

11. Traverse left along a narrow exposed ledge. Walk about 12m left.

12. Climb first the right then the left wall to the top of a deep chimney. Behind is another short chimney which exists on the left.

Pleasant with clean but discontinuous climbing.

Start: At a large, thin white flake resting against the wall, directly below the big corner cutting right up the buttress to the Halfway Ledge. This is about 22m right of the Drip in the Cave.

1. Climb diagonally left to a platform.

2. Climb back right to a ledge, then up the clean corner directly above the start.

3. Climb the square column of prongs and blocks at the back of the ledge.

4. Climb the steep corner next to some blocks, then traverse right, across a face for quite a distance, until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk/crawl left along the ledge right across the front of the buttress, until the ledge opens up at a corner strewn with blocks. The first easy break here - an undercut crack/recess leading to some large yellowwoods in the big chimney alcove above.

5. A strenuous pull up from the top of a sloping block, using small grips, enables one tot reach larger flakes into the crack on the left. Climb to the stance next to the yellowwood trees.

6. Climb the right wall of the alcove, then move right and up a grassy face to a small stance below and right of a bulging crack.

7. Step into the crack below the bulging section of rock, turn the bulge on the left and climb to a large flat block platform. Scramble left and around the corner, or straight to the top.

Start on Podocarpus and head right into the large, vague corner, and follow this to the roof. Move right and exit up the layback to the top.

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 8m

3. [12] 11m

4. [14] 18m

5. [11]

Starts on the staircase ledge -- look for an obvious zigzag crack.

1. [12] 17m

   Climb a short slab to a chimney, then up the chimney. Part way, either step left then up a stepped cracked, or continue up the chimney. Belay on the obvious ledge in an alcove.

2. [12] 24m

   Traverse right, past a wide-step continue traversing around the corner, continue traversing past bolted anchors to belay behind a large boulder.

3. [13] 18m

   At the left end of the boulder, climb a jagged right leaning crack/weakness into a chimney than past a small roof to a ledge.

Continue right through a keyhole and scramble to the top.

Pages 37-43 MCSA Journal 1925

Pages 152-153 MCSA Journal 1967

1. [13] 35m

2. [11] 23m

3. [13] 12m

4. [13] 20m

5. Climb the block, then the face and up to the abseil or cableway.

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 22m

3. [14] 15m

4. [12] 22m

5. [11] 25m

6. [13] 20m

Follow the approach route following the base of the wall until reach a small cave with a small metal plate sign. From there keep going up in a vague path through the bushes until reach a wall with 3 big cracks on it. The one to the right is Millions. the small one with a few grassy bushes growing out of it is Silloette crack (the middle one does not look good for climbing). This is a good route full of protection and nice and easy moves.

1. Climb the small crack all the way up and smear up after the crack starts to turn back down. Build your anchor at some big blocks at the top.

Alternate start or single pitch to chains. Not a lot of pro.

1. Climb the crack just by the side of a groove that widens to a flary chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and head to the top of the second huge poised flake near a tree where one can build an anchor.

2. Climb the face on the right of the groove all the way up until able to walk across to a tree. Belay from the tree or 4 meters up to use the bolts of a sport route. One abseil of 60m will take you back to the base of the route.

Climb the obvious crack on the North aspect of the boulder

Climb the obvious crack on the Southern aspect of the boulder

Start by laybacking over a large block. Continue up and to the left of some loose-ish blocks (take care!!). Finish up the vague corner to the left.

Just past the South-East arête (Pitch#2) on the Clifton side. Start up a nice hand crack and then follow a vague arete to the top.

Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing Creekers and finish up the layback crack to the top.

Climb the L mountain facing side.

Climb the R mountain facing side to TO.

Climb left of the tree, directly up to a cleft at the top-out.

On the left side is a flake 2.5 m up. Climb to this then top-out

Sit-start with both hands on big undercling (x), left hand to incut jug (x), right hand to black jug (x), left hand to top jug (x).

Stand-start on a good ledge on the arête and move up to a left hand jug on the face just above the small roof.

Start as for Ratchet and then head left to climb the dirty groove.

Take off below the jug feature.

Stand start with left hand in a pocket and right hand on a jug sidepull, right hand to a sidepull. The juggy crack to the right is off.

Sit-start with left hand on a slopey edge on the arête above the rail and right hand on a pebble edge just right, left hand to an edge.

Sit-start in the end of the jug rail, right hand to a good ledge on the slopey rail, left hand to a pocket and top-out direct.

Sit-start on the lip, move up via the jug pinch to a tricky finish.

Hang-start on a sharp jug rail and top-out direct.

Sit-start on a rail and head straight up the middle of the face. The arête and large crack feature are off.

Climb the face left of Khubla Khan on featured rock.

Sit-start on jugs at the back of the roof crack inside the boulder, move out and climb (squeeze) through the hole and up the crack. A right of passage for the area.

Sit-start and climb the face / arête. Problem is found on the face around the corner from Poetry in Motion.

Sit-start with left hand on a big pinch on the arête.

Sit-start with right hand on edge and left hand just above, left hand to a jug.

Number 4 is on the opposite side of the boulder. SS on the jugs below a small overhang and move onto the sloping face to TO.