Routes in Du Toit's Kloof for selected grade

shares 1st 4 bolts with Flintstones then go up right from the ledge

Excellent rock quality, good gear all the way and a good variety of moves. Originally graded 21, but feels more 18/19

Start 3m right of the start of 'Crash Flash' Climb directly up till you reach the thin cracks (vanilla rock). Continue up to the right-angled recess. Pull onto a small ledge. The easier 'Joker Smoker' steps left at this point to easier terrain. Above is an overlap and a break in slightly overhanging rock. Climb this to finish 3-4m right of the abseil point. A ring bolt awaits at the top.

Two heart stopping cruxes with bomber protection

Start 2m right of 'Joker Smoker' Climb the broken crack features to the first overhang. Pull through, just right of the blonde patch. Continue on to the last overlap. Above is a really solid flake with a square cut on the left. Using the flake pull onto the face to top out.

Start below and left of the large roof.

On the face are two cracks that converge to form a triangle. Start below and left of the triangle on the right tending crack. Climb the right tending crack to the ledge. Continue up right to the right facing open book, mantle onto the slab and upwards, keeping the vegetation on the right to top out.

Pitch 6 : A0 or massive reach move

The route starts below a very obvious off-width crack about 30m right of Divine Time.

1. (19+) 45m Climb straight up to the off-width and climb it. A large cam is not really necessary. Continue up the shallow recess tending up left to a ledge. Crank straight up into the obvious recess directly above and continue into a shallow left facing corner. Climb this to a large ledge. There is some lichen that is tricky when wet.

2. (19-) 35m. Walk about 4m left past the bush and climb up to the overhang below the left right facing corner. Traverse left and continue on the gorgeous red and yellow rock below the overhang till it pinches. Move up and then head back right past a lovely gold camelot placement to a ledge level with the overhang on the right.

3. (19-) 30m Traverse left 3 or 4 metres until a jug forest rises above below a shallow right facing recess. Climb up into the recess and step left. Continue straight up till easier ground allows you step across the gulley onto a ledge on the Tea Time Buttress.

4. (21) 30m Climb on the face and cracks just to the left of the grotty crack on small holds till it eases. Stance on a nice sized ledge.

5. (21) 35m Climb the Arête to a ledge level with the overhang on the left. Move left past flakes and continue up into a right facing corner. Go for the top.

Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 abseils. 50m or 60m ropes are recommended.

Walk horizontally 30m right along the ledge round the corner and look for a thread below you.

1. Abseil about 40m past a large grassy ledge to a thread point on a ledge.

2. Abseil from this thread 40m to a green rope point over a rock horn a bit to the left.

3. Abseil about 35m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .

4. Abseil about 45m to the ground.

The buttress on which this route is situated is a 10' walk down to the left of the main Yellowwood wall. Start on a block just to the right of a gulley separating the Divine Time & Tea Time buttresses, there is a sml tree to the left.

1. [18] 30m Climb with care up the pillar, it's slightly run out on fragile rock. Alternatively start further left which is steeper but the rock quality is good. Step right after 15m onto the arête and climb excellent rock to a stance next to a large block on the right and a yellowwood bush on the left.

2. [17] 20m Walk left past a yellowwood tree and climb the left-hand side of the arête. Moving right into cracks. Stance on a ledge, left of a red corner.

3. [20] 20m Do not go up the corner. Use the rail out right and move right onto the face. Climb diagonally right to a wide rail, keep railing right to a ledge system with a small bush beyond. Move up and back left then trend right to stance below the in a rail below the large roof.

4. [21] 10m Rail out left and through to get excellent flakes on the lip. Lye on your back with a foot out to the right on the overhang to do the move. Stance just above the roof on a ledge so that you communicate with the second. The second must reach the flakes on the lip before removing the final gear so as to avoid a prussic experience should he/she fail to do the moves.

5. [15] 20m Climb up right on juggy rock and then tend left to a large ledge.

6. [19] 55m This is one of the best 19 pitches ever. Long, varied, safe and funky. Scramble up to the obvious off-width crack. Use the off-width edge to stem with. Climb up and then step left into the recess. Climb this and continue up right past the jagged roof. Climb the right facing open book and continue up through a small roof and up the jam crack to a stance. (On 50m ropes you will have to make a hanging belay)

7. [19] 15m Continue directly up the breaks/ cracks, just before the end is a fist crack out left, climb the crack to the right, using the fist crack at the end, step left and up to a large ledge.

Descent: Walk left 60m over blocks then bushes past the gulley and then blocks to the abseil bolts= Timerity abseils=3 abseils on 60m ropes.

The route starts on the right of the "Extra Time" butress

1. (19 R) 40m Climb easily up the ramp and find some "not so good gear" placements. Step up onto the face and do a tricky move up and slightly left. Climb more easily to a ledge (often a little damp). Climb the crack in the short left facing corner to a good ledge.

2. (20) 40m Climb up rightwards past the triangular overhang to a ledge. Climb the steep face above (or the grey face right of the corner which is not as clean) to a narrow ledge. Move a few metres left and then climb the right facing corner and continue up to a good ledge.

3. (20) 20m Climb up the face to under the thin overhang and pull through on the right into a steep crack. Climb to the "dassie" ledge.

4. (21) 25m The original route climbs an obvious undercut but grotty recess on the left (19) but an improved version does a crank into the recess on the right shared with Extra Time. Crank into the recess and climb up the left side and pass the overhangs on the left. (Extra Time climbs the right side and then straight through the overhangs). Move past the bush on the left to join the stance on Extra Time on a small but good ledge.

5. (18) 15m This and the next two pitch can be combined. Climb up right on the clean grey face and head across the exposed face to below an overhanging crack.

6. (20) 30m Climb the overhanging crack and turn the overhang on its right. Climb diagonally left to the arete. Climb this and then finish up the corner to the walk-off ledge.

Descent: Walk left along ledge systems all the way to the Timerity Abseil

The route starts in the middle of the buttress supporting Smalblaar ridge on the right. Walk round from YW amphitheatre, round the large genderme, as if going to the descent gully and chess pieces. Scramble up the easiest obvious grassy ledge system to start at a crack (cairn in place.)

1. 30m (19) Climb the crack to a blocky ledge 5m. Move left 2m and turn the overhang on the left and step right onto the face and climb up to a good stance. Belay to the right of the keyed in flake.

2. 35m (20/21) Climb up carefully using the flake till standing on it. Pull through the overlap and attain easier ground. Traverse left to and the up on the left arête. Climb diagonally up with lay back moves to exit with a mantelshelf move on lichen covered rock. Belay on a small ledge system.

3. 20m (18) Climb the crack on the left and scramble up to belay on a good ledge below the obvious chimney crack on the right.

4. 45m (20) Climb the yellow- red rock to attain the chimney. Continue onto easier bushy terrain and belay on the left next to large blocks.

5. 35m (21). Climb over the blocks and continue straight up steep cracks using stemming moves to a ledge. Belay here or continue up the crack system tending to the left to climb through the overlap. (18).

Scramble off right or have a go at the Headwall pitch on the left.

Descent. Down Galley to right (2 raps) or Timerity rap route which is quicker if you went past the drip (3 raps).