A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Mossel Bay
38 in Area
- 1.1. St Blaize Crag 11 in Crag
- 1.2. Lighthouse Crag 8 in Crag
- 1.3. 70's Crag 10 in Sector
- 1.4. Nowhere’s Crag 4 in Sector
- 1.5. Moominvalley 5 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mossel Bay 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.194057, 22.141187
summary
Mossel Bay has very consistent surf with mostly uncrowded surf spots. So, if you are a surfer and a climber then Mossel Bay (now with sea cliff climbing) is a must-go destination.
description
Mossel Bay has the second most temperate climate in the world (after Hawaii), so temperatures are normally cooler than other climbing towns. As the routes mostly face east or south, they have afternoon shade in summer and are mostly in the shade in winter. For this reason, winter climbing is more greasy. After winter rains the rock takes a few days to dry as water tends to seep towards the sea, creating perfect British rock-climbing conditions.
access issues
Currently, there are no access issues. Permission has been granted by the local municipality for bolting of sea cliffs below the St Blaize hiking trail. No bolting is allowed on or nearby the Point Cave for safety reasons as the cave is a tourist destination. The cave is also situated above the St Blaize trail. Access to the crags is from the St Blaize Trail which is on the south side of Mossel Bay town.
approach
The St Blaize Trail can be accessed from the tourist cave at The Point or from Cecil Shephard Street.
30-35 minutes from The Point cave.
5-10 minutes from the St Blaize trail parking (
-34.191551, 22.143110) on Cecil Shepard Street.
There is a descent at Lighthouse Crag. Look for the scramble with safety rope. From the base of Lighthouse Crag you can walk back towards St Blaize Crag. Stay on the path close to the base of the crag.
history
This crag was first bolted in the 80’s and five routes were opened by an unknown climber using expansion bolts. With the support of the Anchor Replacement Fund, these routes have been re-bolted with glue-ins. The new routes have obviously been opened with glue-in bolts.
1.1. St Blaize Crag 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.194184, 22.144220
approach
The St Blaize Trail can be accessed from the tourist cave at The Point or from Cecil Shephard Street. 30-35 minutes walk from The Point cave. 5-10 minutes from the St Blaize hiking trail entrance on Cecil Shepard Street. Either abseil into the crag using the anchors of Queens Gambit or use the descent scramble at Lighthouse Crag to get to the base. From there walk along the path at the base back towards St Blaize Crag.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Breakwater
A crack climb Maint: Deon van Zyl, May 2021 | 20 | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Octopus Dance
FA: Deon van Zyl, Feb 2021 Set: Deon van Zyl, 4 Nov 2021 | 23 | 25m, 8 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Orange or Yellow
Maint: Deon van Zyl, May 2021 | 19 | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Lichenification
FA: Deon van Zyl, 15 Aug 2021 | 23 | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Queens Gambit
Set: Deon van Zyl, Nov 2020 FA: Deon van Zyl & Y. van Zyl, 16 Jan 2021 | 21 | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Dragon Variation
Set: Deon van Zyl, Nov 2020 FA: Deon van Zyl & Y. van Zyl, 16 Jan 2021 | 22 | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Sicilian Defense
Set: Deon van Zyl, Nov 2020 FA: Deon van Zyl & Y. van Zyl, Jan 2021 | 23 | 28m, 10 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ 1.e4 c5
Set: Deon van Zyl, Mar 2021 FA: Deon van Zyl, 22 Aug 2021 | 25 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ 1.d4 d5
Set: Deon van Zyl, Mar 2021 FA: Deon van Zyl, Mar 2021 | 20 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Alekhine’s Gun
FA: Y. van Zyl, Aug 2021 | 17 | 20m, 8 | |||||
1.2. Lighthouse Crag 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.192884, 22.145167
approach
The St Blaize Trail can be accessed from the tourist cave at The Point or from Cecil Shephard Street. 30-35 minutes walk from The Point cave. 5-10 minutes from the St Blaize hiking trail entrance on Cecil Shepard Street. Follow the path off the St Blaize Trail to get to Lighthouse Crag. From the top of the crag look for the descent scramble with safety rope to get to the base.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Starboard
Set: Deon van Zyl, Feb 2021 FA: Deon van Zyl, Feb 2021 | 22 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Creaky
FA: D. Smit, 1985 Maint: Deon van Zyl, May 2021 | 21 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Port
Set: Deon van Zyl, 22 Jan 2021 | 25 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Light Keeper
FA: Deon van Zyl, Feb 2022 | 24 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Like Paint
Set: Deon van Zyl, Dec 2020 FA: Deon van Zyl, 11 Apr 2021 | 19 | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Rhythmic Light
Maint: Deon van Zyl | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Foghorn
Maint: Deon van Zyl | 14 | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Bubbles
FA: P Adrian, Sep 2021 | 13 | 4 | |||||
1.3. 70's Crag 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.193309, 22.145118
approach
30m left of 'Lighthouse Crag'
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Orca
FA: Deon van Zyl, Sep 2021 | 22 | 7 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Whale of a Time
FA: P Adriaan, Jul 2022 | 16 | 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Flying Fish
FA: P Adrian, Sep 2021 | 15 | 7 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Gregable
FA: Greg Devine, Oct 2021 | 14 | 8 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Clip, Layback, Repeat
FA: P Adrian, Jul 2021 | 17 | 7 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Bluefin
FA: Y. van Zyl, 9 Mar 2021 | 15 | 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Lucky Star
Set: P Adrian FA: C du Plooy, Aug 2021 | 13 | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Seventies Rock
Set: P Adrian FA: G Devine, Jul 2021 | 14 | 12m, 6 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Slippy Slide
FA: P Adrian, Oct 2021 | 15 | 8 | |||||
| 10 |
★ Jungle Gym
FA: P Adrian, Nov 2021 | 13 | 8 | |||||
1.4. Nowhere’s Crag 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.192846, 22.141010
approach
From the St Blaize Trail entrance on Cecil Shepherd Street follow the path towards the sea. Take the right fork of the trail. This crag can then be viewed above Nowhere’s Bay and is accessible from the St Blaize Trail. Scramble down from the trail to access the top of the crag. Abseil in using the chains of 'Thys’s Folly' or the tree stump that crosses the path. Please note that 'Thys’s Folly' is the easiest way to exit this crag so you will have to be able to climb back up this route.
descent notes
Abseil in using the chains of 'Thys’s Folly' or the tree stump that crosses the path. Please note that 'Thys’s Folly' is the easiest way to exit this crag so you will have to be able to climb back up this route.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vertical wall climbing | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Thys’s Folly
FA: Deon van Zyl, Jul 2021 | 22 | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Tactile
FA: Deon van Zyl, Aug 2022 | 23 | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Brush Me
FA: Deon van Zyl, Aug 2022 | 24 | 10 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Antisocial
FA: Deon van Zyl, Feb 2023 | 25 | 24m, 10 | |||||
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1.5. Moominvalley 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.195262, 22.137481
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ MëyMëy
FA: Y. van Zyl, Sep 2021 | 17 | 13m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ The Ancestor
FA: Deon van Zyl, Jan 2022 | 23 | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Stinkie
FA: Deon van Zyl, Nov 2021 | 24 | 13m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Snufkin
FA: Y. van Zyl, Sep 2021 | 18 | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Sampioenspokies
FA: Deon van Zyl, Oct 2021 | 22 | 20m, 7 | |||||
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