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Summary

Enjoyable climbing.

Approach

Botmaskop is situated outside of Jonkershoek above eastern Stellenbosch. You can find it on Google Maps here: Botmaskop Hike. GPS Location: (-33.9359407, 18.9065675). Please park above Uniepark and hike up. The hike takes 1½ - 2 hours depending on fitness levels.

From the top of Uniepark walk up forest roads until the main road becomes a straight clearing through a gum forest. From here either go left along a single track until you hit a jeep track crossing the path. Turn up this path for a while before turning right off the jeep track onto a cairned path. Alternatively, go straight up this cleared erosion path and follow cairns up and left and then traverse left above the gum forest until you reach the obvious path heading up towards the peak. Once you reach the rock band turn right and traverse below the rock until you reach a pinnacle. The routes are around this area.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 12
2 13
  1. [12]:
    Climb the obvious crack past a tree growing out of the crack up to the base of the second crag.
  2. [13]:
    An improbable pitch. Climb deep into the chimney crack and move up behind the rocks jammed in the edge of the crack. A very tight fit! Climb the crack and then traverse right and up past an old peg. Stance on the large ledge with a tree. From here either traverse left to find the rap tree or scramble easily to the summit.
1 12
2 19
  1. [12]:
    Climb the obvious crack past a tree growing out of the crack up to the base of the second crag.
  2. [19]:
    Climb the outside of the crack and then the obvious steep crack (instead of traversing right for the scramble).

There is a ledge a few meters above the forest floor that runs from the right-hand side of the crag to the middle. Start on the far left-hand side of this ledge (±3m left of the tree) and climb straight up, going past a square-shaped small hole near the top of the cliff

FA: G. Ravenscroft & A. Ravenscroft, Jun 2020

Start at the base of the tree on the ledge and go up through the slightly overhung slots. Easy finish and belay from the bomber tree.

FA: O. de Waal & R. Graefe, Jun 2020

Start around the corner at the far right. Climb up a slightly open-book- like feature (right of a tree) before moving out left onto the face. Climb the white face straight up on small holds. If the open book feature seems uninviting this pitch could be started on the far right of the face rather than going around the corner.

FA: G. Ravenscroft & O. de Waal, Jun 2020

Climb the centre of the face left of the open book and right of the arête using face holds. Stay in the middle-left of this face. Fantastic face climbing with ok protection despite looking slightly blank from beneath.

FA: G. Ravenscroft & O. de Waal, Jun 2020

Climb the crack in the open book till below the small roof, exit out left before the roof. Can build an anchor on the platform or run all the way to the top at a tree.

Start between the corner crack and the bushy tree and climb up to a rail. Traverse slightly to the right and climb the stunning face. Head up the overhung open book with some fun moves tending slightly left and bust straight up through the roof. Bomber gear placements everywhere. Possible stance above the roof.

FA: O. de Waal & G. Ravenscroft

Scramble/abseil down here. Can be climbed to the summit but is not recommended.

Climb up to the overlap and go up slightly left through the face.

FA: O. de Waal & I. Greyling

Start on a horn-like feature and go up to a ledge, then head left to the top.

FA: O. de Waal & R. Graefe

Start beneath the large roofs. Climb to the right of the horn-like roof and left of the main roofs and then straight up the centre of the clean upper face.

FA: G. Ravenscroft & B. van der Merwe

Climb the open book and keep right.

FA: R. Graefe & O. de Waal

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