Sit Down Start. Around the corner, to the left of 'P. L. Traverse', sit with both hands in the long horizontal crack. Each hand is on either side of the arête. Climb up the arête to top out.
Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.
Climbs the face to the right of 'The Reckoning'. Start easily up to a layback flake system and then take a central line up the face with a short, wide vertical crack just before the top.
Start: about 12m left of Barrier Frontal, up a left facing corner capped by a roof.
Climb the recess for about 5m, then traverse across the vertical wall to the corner. Pull through an overlap, to beneath the next roof, and move left and up a recess on a higher ledge (awkward). Continue up the recess to the ceiling, then traverse right around the corner to a small ledge and move up to a bigger ledge. Climb the face above the left-hand edge of the ledge, then traverse 2m left into a shallow recess (with a bush) to another ledge.
Traverse to the right along a narrow, bushy ledge until you reach a stance at the top of the first pitch of Barrier Frontal.
From the blocks, climb on the good holds past some steep flake moves to reach a stance in a deep fissure. Climb the fissure for about 1m then traverse out right 3m to the obvious break. Using a yellow sandy-looking projection move up to the right for 2m, then swing up to the square stance to the right of the overhang.
Traverse right, along a reddish ledge for 5m until a flake lying flush with the face is reached. Use the flake to swing up and continue climbing to the stance, bypassing the small overhang on the right. Climb the obvious recess (shared with Barrier Frontal) and exit to the right to reach a ledge with two fixed pitons and horseshoe on Barrier Frontal.
Climb up for 3m, then move diagonally left to the hanging recess and up this to the top.
A good route on the South Face with a fine handrail.
Start: about 8m right of the water drip. Pitch 1. 16m (10) Move diagonally left for 8m, then negotiate a dassie traverse for another 8m to the base of a shallow, Y Shaped crack on a brown face.
Climb the Y-Shaped crack for 4m, then traverse right towards and then onto a loose-looking block. Move diagonally right to the right hand corner of the face (above the water drip). Climb the easy recess to the broad ledge above. Walk right for 9m to the base of a recessed corner.
Climb the recess to a small overhang, move 1m left, then pull though the small roof to a rest. Climb the corner above on fingertip lay-backs to the overhang above. Rail 7m left & up to a comfortable stance.
Climb up and right onto the obvious protruding flake beneath the roof. "Turn the overhang" and up 3m before traversing left to a 7m face to a stance.
After an awkward start, climb the face diagonally left for 10m to a small ledge. Continue up, trending left to reach the ledge beneath the final pitch or Edge. Take Edge to the top:
Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.
Notes: it is recommended to traverse diagonally left to join BE at the end of pitch 4.
FA:R. Baillie, L. Birch, B. Fletcher, R. Reinecke & P. White, 1960
To the right of the slab is some scrappy rock. Start right of this and up to narrow overlap. Pull through on the right then move back left and up to easier terrain. Continue heading left, following a vague, steep recess until able to exit right at the top.
Good climbing, pity about the loose block and bushy mantle at the end...
Start: up the wall at a point where a faint path leads through the bushes and out to the right side of the crag.
Head up and tend left under the broken rock and up to the midway ledge. Climb up below the black water-streak corner for 2m and then rail left 2m and up to the exit face will a series of horizontal rails. Beware a big loose block just right of the final face. The top out involves negotiating none non friendly climber's friend.
Nice climbing up to midway, then a walk and tricky finish.
Start: on the far right of the wall.
Climb up to where a short traverse right leads up to the ledge. Walk right a few meters and then climb diagonally back up and left to a tricky exit at the top.
"Very Steep. Unlikely that anyone will fall asleep on it"
Start: Left of the Hottentot Cherry Tree situated to the left of Valken Face.
Climb directly up the face until its possible to step right using a flake- and up to the stance above.
Move up onto a block on the left then climb the face above until a sloping stance below an overhang is reached.
Climb 1m left then continue diagonally left on the face (delicate) before ascending to a small ledge, then climb the face above to another ledge. Traverse 2m right and climb up a short face, past a tree for 3m. Traverse left to some blocks, then up the the face to reach the ravine above.
Avoid the overhang above by climbing up right then left until a recess is reached. Climb the face until its possible to move diagonally left to a stance.
Climb through the overhang above and continue up a 6m ridge right until traversing right underneath another overhang. Proceed to a stance above.
Climb onto a thin block that peters out to the right. Climb the face right of Valken Parapet for 9m. An overhanging face with large grips will be seen above. Climb this overhanging section, traverse 1-2m right, then proceed diagonally left to a stance. Walk up the ridge to the top sections. The next pitch is in the recess of a ridge, right of the start of Valken Crag.
7.A Number of short recesses will be found to the right of the ridge. After 8m of climbing one reaches the first ledge. 10m of recess takes one to the next ledge,. A recessed corner with a large tree next to it is ascended for 22m for a bushy stance.
Climb about 2m up a corner above the beacon, then traverse left to a recess with a number of flakes lying against it. Climb the recess to until it is possible to exit left. Traverse 6m left and break through to the right of an overhang. climb 8m up a recess to a large ledge.
"The simian crux from the cave is a big challenge" in 21st century speak that means a bouldery start.
Climb the recess by standing on the block forming part of the fireplace. Climb the recess to the overhang, then traverse left for a meter to mantel for a ledge, then continue traversing left about 3m until one stances with Valken Parapet.
Move diagonally right for 5m to a handrail which is followed for 2m to a corner on the right. Just a little left of the corner is a small stance, climb past it and continue 4m up the corner to a good stance.
Climb the face directly above bearing slightly left for 4m to an overhang section. Swing across to the bottom of an overhanging recess. Take the recess for 3m to where is joins an overhanging section, ascend this section for 3m then head diagonally left for 4m to a good stance (those grips appear to be rotten but are sound). Traverse 6m right to a large semi-detached block overlooking the crux of Valken Frontal.
Directly above the overhang shadowing the stance is a smooth face. to reach the face ascend the block on the right before moving left 3m. Climb up for 6m on small grips and traverse right to a small stance. Take another 6m face, moving left to a ledge.
4m of flake climbing leads to the ceiling of an overhang. Traverse 6m right to a good stance below a large crack.
Climb up a short face into the crack before continuing to a small stance.
Climb 5m up the corner above to a small overhang. Traverse around the corner back into the crack, and keep on traversing onto the face on the right to a ledge. Proceed along the ledge for 7m.
Either climb 5m up and move to the fault, or climb the fault directly to the top of the Buttress.
FA:K. Fletcher, J. Goedknegt, K. Fletcher & J. Goedknegt, 1961
Note: read the 1973 MCSA Journal which has a write up about the ascent- proper work went into this route.
Start: The Route begins in the first large breakaway right of Barrier Cave, about 1m left of the original start of Valken Frontal.
Ascend a rounded face to a dassie ledge. Standing on this traverse 4m left to the edge of a flake. A series of semi-layback moves leads to a small ledge.
Climb onto the narrow ledge to the left, then diagonally right to a very small stance below a bottomless crack. (This stance is on the traverse of the original Frontal Route).
Pull up into an undercut face, step right and into the bottomless crack. Ascend the crack to a cubby-hole (strenuous). Swing around to the right and hand traverse 2m to a ledge, crawl across the gap to a stance on the nose.
Traverse 3m right beneath a long narrow overhang. Pull through the overhang using a concealed diagonal finger-rail Step right and up into a rib like projection and reach across to a small flake which is just right of the overhang above. Lay-back up the side of the overhang and mantelshelf onto the narrow ledge above.
Traverse 14m left to a bushy ledge. Climb the right angled corner to the ledge.
Traverse right 4m over a large block to a narrow slit on the vertical face. Climb the slit to some blocks. Move right onto a small ledge.
Move up about 2m and traverse eight to the base of a crack. Climb this until it reaches a small overhang, step 2m left to another slit, parallel to the first and climb to a narrow stance on the left.
Climb through a crack in the overhang and follow the break to the final beacon.
Start: The route starts at the same place as Valken Surprise.
Climb up the edge of the blocks for 5m then hand-swing right on a rail above. Continue up a corner on the right to a stance.
Move left up a lichen covered face, then zig-zag up obvious breaks to a stance. This stance is shared with Valken Surprise 5th stance if the above description is used.
Move up a brown face to a prominent overhang above, then follow the only break through that overhang by jamming the feet and lying out horizontally to reach the grips above. Pull through and up the face, which brings one onto the large ledge that forms part of the "D" route, approximately halfway up the bottom sections. The climb continues up the prominent vertical face above.
Take the obvious recess which requires a short traverse move in order to bring one diagonally up to a "right-hand" stance. The occasional Climbers Friend indicates the line of ascent.
From the left side of the stance, move diagonally left to a small stance. The only break is up the broken face on the right, for 6-8m, followed by difficult diagonal moves for another 6m left into a small crack (off balance). Continue up the crack to a stance above.
It's possible to either traverse off here, or scramble up the rocky section above.
Start: 6m right of Valken Wall, left of a large tree. That would also be 26m right of the "D" route start, and within 10m of the end of the West facing wall.
Climb the broken face left of the tree for 9m. Continue left to a ramp, then lay back the ramp to a stance shared with Valken Corner.
Continue directly above the stance via the left hang overhanging corner to a large stance.
Climb a short face above a bush, continue right, then up a corner to a small stance next to a loose block.
Climb to a hand rail beneath the overhang above the block, then traverse right for 2m on small grips until it is possible to proceed upwards to a higher hand rail. Continue to the right corner. Climb up, then continue via a short recess and face to the large ledge above.
Walk diagonally left to the base of a shallow, brownish recess left of Valken Corner. Straddle up on sparse grips to a piton via the most feasible route, then move diagonally left to a one man stance.
Move left 1m round the corner the climb up bearing right, in the process using a lay back move to gain a face. Continue up the face for 10m, then move left up to a narrow ledge. traverse 8m right along the ledge, down 2m, continue to the corner then finally climb up to a comfortable stance.
Climb up a recess bearing left. Turn the overhang to the left in order to avoid the loose flakes on the right. Continue straight up to a stance.
Climb the face avoiding bush, then continue via some slabs to the top of the buttress.
Start: From a shady shelter behind some trees, about 20m higher up from the grey face used by Valken Edge. A Brown wall looms above, split by a brake leading to a stance.
Climb the face to the roof, then move left to gain the base of a prominent scoop. Climb the Scoop, then swing right around the corner on sharp edges and move up into a stance.
Wedge up a wide, overhanging crack on the left, then hand traverse left at the first rail over an alarming drop until energetic pulling up can be made.
From a higher ledge (shared with Valken Edge) climb a short groove on the right to a platform.
Traverse left and up into a huge recess, which is hidden from sight around the corner. Climb up, avoiding the 'Damocles Blocks' and exit strenuously at the top onto a ledge full of blocks.
Step up to a crouching traverse line and move left around the corner, stretch down to a lower rail and power jam across a rough rounded rail to the corner.
Climb the face behind the stance and finish on the right-hand skyline.
Start: about 15m left of the Turret corner is a grey face with a break running up its centre. this line takes that break.
Start on the right edge of the crack and move up to a small cave. Traverse right over a slightly broken face the climb left to a mantelshelf and stance. I think this is below a small stepped overhang.
Above and right is a fine belay among some boulders on a ledge. From this ledge continue diagonally left to an obvious break (2 pitons).Continue to directly below the overhang, then up to a curious crack.
Continue straight up a crack.
Climb an easy overhang above and left to the ledge and move right to a good stance.
Either take the recess of an easier crack on the right.
"A Motorway for sports models only, Some excellent, hard pitches." 1978
Start: up a clean, scalloped rib rising out of the trees 30m left of Champs Elysees
Climb the rib on superb holds to a ledge. Move up over a wet grassy "knee-pad" into a tight leaning chimney-crack to gain another ledge.
P2. Climb a steep wall behind the stance for 5m (a groove on the left) then do an awkward move onto a little stance with two stout old pegs. Continue to the corner beneath overhangs and pull up as high as possible before traversing right to Boulevard Ledge, similar to that on CE but narrower. Climb over an exposed corner before descending diagonally right to a stance.
Lower yourself off the ledge before traversing right beneath some blocks to a recess. Climb this to the big ledge below the ramp on CE, and move right to below a hard looking crack.
Pull up to a slab and cross this from left to right to gain the bottom of a twisted crack. Take the crack to beneath the roof, then move right across a smooth orange slab to the second gap between blocks to reach the Halfway Ledge.
A strenuous pull up from the top of a sloping block using small grips enables one to reach large flakes in the left crack. Climb to a stance next to a yellowwood tree. This pitch belongs to Frasers Frontal.
Step off the tree onto the under cut sidewall of the left hand buttress into he chimney. Swing around left onto a steep wall, then up and around left to pull up to a ledge. Continue up a boulder and fight a bush to share a stance with Frasers. Scramble to the top.
FA:D. Brown, B. de Bruin, D. McLachlan & M. Scott, 1976
Today is the reckoning
Today we hold the line
Today is the quickening
Of the blood and the soul and the mind.
-Johnny Clegg
Start: about 20m left of CE, right next to a large bush and a spacious sloped boulder below the middle of a brown face, immediately right of a blunt arete with a cairn.
Make a dynamic move to a prong to get established on the face, then climb up on spaced holds to traverse left. Cross the blunt arete and traverse 6m left until it is possible to move up and right on spaced but positive holds with better pro. (Note: it is possible to skip out this meander and climb straight up from the prong, stepping left higher up, to cross the blunt arete and join the original line). Climb an obvious traverse right before heading up a recess to pass the overhang to reach a stance behind a huge block.
From the block, climb to the the second rail. Traverse right and swing airily around a corner above a shallow recess. Continue rightwards 4m before climbing straight up the wall to below a roof. move right to a ledge (below CE Ramp Pitch).
Climb the ramp 3m until able to move onto the left wall. Traverse left easily over the yawning void for 10m to where the wall becomes quite steep. Continue traversing with your feet on the lip of a big overhang to pass under a small overlap, then up a large layback flake to easier ground. climb straight up to a large ledge.
In the corner, climb a rightward curving recess over huge blocks to just under the enormous roof. Traverse to the right over large blocks to a magnificently exposed 'moving' one-sit-only stance just below and left of CE's bottomless chimney. Some of the blocks may demand your rapt attention!
Do the stunning layback up to CE bottomless chimney and at the first handrail climb left for the skyline then breezily up juglets to a large ledge.
Climb a 4m face to a narrow ledge. Traverse left 3m the up about 12m until the smooth face ends on a broad ledge. The sloping ramp on Plumbline is about 10m right.
Move left to the end of the ledge. Further left a hardly perceptible traverse continues for some 8m. Climb to a point about 3/4 along to where the lack of holds forces one diagonally left and around a corner to a gully. Easy climbing takes you within 4m of the Halfway Ledge. From here either move via an awkward traverse to a bush below a narrow overhanging block. Using the grips below the block one can lean out and move above. OR move directly upwards on small, lay-back grips for 3m then right on very small grips to a corner and on to the Halfway Ledge (better for shorties).
Starting just left at a point left of the middle point between Plumbline and Frasers below a narrow overhang. Use a shoulder to reach the smooth face above, then head straight up 11m to a ledge (Frasers stance is just above)
A pleasant traverse 18m left (crossing Frasers), followed by a recess with great rock to the top.
Move up left and do an awkward mantleshelf to gain a narrow ledge. Traverse right 8m along the ledge to an obvious recess and climb this to another ledge about 14m above. Immediately behind is a sloping ramp which is climbed to a stance with a large flake on it.
Traverse 2m right and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right 5m, then climb a sloping ramp to a small pinnacle. Traverse left until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk left about 30m to a large block.
Using a sling to reach a bollard protruding from the face, pull up and continue to the ledge beneath the large overhang.
Traverse right over some loose blocks. Where the ledge ends, move up 3m to a small stance with a loose block on it.
Move left onto an exposed corner, then traverse 13m left into a chimney. Climb the chimney, then continue up over a very large detached block on the right and climb the recess immediately above, exiting left onto a ledge. Move along the ledge and climb up to a broad ledge and the end of the route.
FA:H. Currey, J. Davies, E. Keen, L. Schaff & O. Shipley, 1947
"An intimidating route and a bit grotty in places."
Start: from the fireplace at Postern Cave traverse left to the start of Postern Crag, then descend about 7m to reach a stance overlooking Kasteel Poort. The first Beacon is for Posternation, the next left is for this route.
Climb up the slightly recessed face above the beacon 6m. reach left to a handrail, swing across, pull up and continue straight up the face to a stance.
Climb up the smooth white face.
Move up the bulging corner to the left of the stance to a beacon.
Climb 3m above the beacon and then continue left into a recess which is climbed for 2m. Traverse right onto the point of a small nose and continue straight up to the Halfway Ledge.
Start climbing 2m right of a grassy corner, (about 15m right of the crux pitch of Champs). Although the rock is completely undercut, by taking a shoulder it is possible to reach the higher of 2 hand rails. Traverse right 2m, then lay-back into the bottom of a recess (Tricky). Ascend the recess for 3m, then a short traverse and ascend to a stance.
Climb up and out left form under the overhang. Traverse left to a wide crack in the left wall. Ascend 2-3m then traverse right to an obvious stance.
From the back of the stance climb a short distance up a dirty crack, then traverse left into a wide crack. Climb out of the crack, then continue up the face until its possible to squeeze back in to the crack. Climb out of the crack and continue up, keeping slightly left until a good stance. Walk left and climb to a large tree.
Nondescript climbing takes one to the top of the buttress.
FA:D. Berrisford, K. Fletcher & P. Sanderson-Smith, 1964
A monument to bold, hard leading, well ahead of its time. Graded G2
(20) in the old guide.
Start: directly behind the Right Block.
From the block climb a short face with a strenuous take-off, traverse left, and move diagonally up a fault to a point 27m above, and immediately below an overhanging recess which seems to cut through the overhang. From a bollard an extremely awkward move right and up turns the overhang. 3m further up is a stance.
6m right of the previous pitch, climb an 11m face. Climb a broken recess to the right of Plumbline Face crack to the Halfway Ledge.
The beacon is 4m left of Cameron's Frontal. Pull up the overhanging recess (8m) to the edge of the overhang. Hand traverse 4m right, move onto a bollard then traverse 3m left to turn the overhangs.
Move left to climb a corner.
Start 1m or so right of Cameron's Frontal, and ascend the face on small holds.
FA:B. Fletcher, H. Graafland, C. Hankey, R. Hollingdale, L. Thomas & R. Williams, 1957
Start: 15m left of the cave, or on the right corner of the Right Block is a shallow, vertical recess capped by an overhang.
Climb the recess, move right at the top, then continue up a short face to a ledge.
Walk 6m right and climb a smooth, red face. Move slightly left at the top of the face to meet the Halfway Ledge.
Traverse 6m right to the foot of an amphitheatre capped by an overhang. The nose that forms the right side of the amphitheatre is the crux pitch of Nose. Take the recess on the left corner. Climb this recess to the Halfway Ledge, and stance on the left.
Climb the obvious recess, moving diagonally left, and continue up an easy face to a wide ledge. Either climb a short "D" gully to the top, or traverse right off the buttress.
Start: about 8m right of Cameron's Frontal and 3m left of Fraser's Frontal Flake.
Climb the short face leading to a stance with a few trees (which is shared with Fraser's Frontal). Move up 3m, then traverse 4m right to a semi-layback crack. Climb the crack 8m to a stance.
From the right, climb the overhanging recess to a good stance, then traverse 18m left past a yellowwood and continue along a narrow dassie-crawl to stance on the left of a number of loose-looking blocks.
An interesting take off enables one to overcome the undercut, bulging recess. Continue up 1m then left on a semi-detached block. From the left end of this block ascend 8m, until forced to traverse 3m right to a small flake with an overhang above. Turn the roof by a pull using a high grip, then mantleshelf onto a stance just below the Halfway Ledge. Move right along the ledge to a recess.
Semi-layback 5m up the recess to a handrail running towards the nose on the right. Ignoring the higher rail, traverse 1m right until the lower handrail fades out. Search for a concealed cup grip in the face a little distance down right and swing down on this grip until minute footholds are found. Reach up tot the handrail (which appears to form a rounded grip) and pull up and stretch to a two finger grip. Gain a good handrail above, then traverse to the tip of the nose and ascend a short recess to a good stance.
Traverse 5m right and climb a recess for 4m. Continue to a good stance.
Climb 11m over a broken face, bearing slightly left of the previous pitch, to a small stance. climb a chimney on the right to the top.
Start: directly in front of a triangular block, a meter or so right of Fraser's
Climb the wall, traverse right, move up to a ledge, the continue to the right until it is possible to follow a diagonal line up and back to the left of the recess.
To the right of Fraser's pull up through an overhang onto a flat platform and continue up the recess above, then climb the short white wall directly ahead to a ledge.
Fraser's is now unavoidably crosses where it makes the long traverse from left to right over to a point next to the Postern "D" route. (Postern Face also crosses Fraser's Frontal here). Climb to a piton in the crack a meter or so from the left end of the ledge. After an awkward pull-up around a slight bulge, move up to a tiny niche, then pull through the overhanging wall on horizontal handrails to reach the Halfway Ledge next so some bushes and a large block.
Climb the large recess at the start of the Halfway ledge (where one has to descend from the blocks), up to an off-balance jam move next to a piton. A Delicate lay-back move leads up to the handrail under the overhang. Traverse left and up.
Traverse left to the base of the left or two recesses.
Postern Nose is crossed here as it used the easier recess on the right. Climb the recess using fingertip lay-back crack, which curves over to the right and is very strenuous. Pull up to a sloping ledge using two deep finger holds. Step up to the ledge and walk off to the right.
Start: about 200m from the top of the ravine the path runs close to the face on the right. At a level slightly higher than this a steep juggy face leads to an obvious crack.
Climb the face moving diagonally right then back left to gain the base of the crack. Ascend the crack to a stance blow a small overhang.
Pull left through the roof over jammed blocks. Continue up to the next set of roofs, Move left, crank through the double roofs to gain a rail. Traverse left and move up to a stance.
The route starts in the obvious left facing dihedral near the top of the ravine.
Note: P3 & 4 are sandbagged and some of the rock quality is questionable (on those pitches).
Move into the crack from the left, gain the dihedral and climb up to a stance on the right (it is possible to combine P1&2).
Climb up to the left to gain a dihedral. Move right and continue up the corner and face above. Stance below a thick, hanging undercut flake.
Climb up the shallow recess on the right of the hanging flake and then traverse left below roofs before pulling through a break above that leads to a shallow undercut dihedral.
Climb through the crack in the roof above, then move diagonally left to clear the next roof on its left hand side. Continue to the top.
This route starts about 8m right of the overhang by the tea cave. Pull onto the wall and follow 2 steep recesses until able to move right into the vertical hand crack. Straight to the top.
Start about 2m right of Deucalion and pull up rail (#4 Camalot useful). Head up a wide corner and then straight up the face, just right of centre. Near the top there is a long move to a large horizontal pocket. At the next hand rail, traverse left and finish as for Deucalion.
The base has a big step of 2.5m in the middle, start here and take the face above to the ledge, then head over easy ground to stance at the foot of the Step Over Block.
From the block's left corner closest the cliff take the arete to the top.
Take the obvious left slanting break to the ledge, diagonal left and stance at the base of the Step Over Block. Average pitch Scramble behind the Step Over Block to the base of the obvious crack (the left one) running up the face.
Start in the corner on the left, then follow the crack onto the face all the way to the top. The last few meters are in an open book/chimney.
The two pitches probably could be linked to one pitch.
10m (19) The route takes a line beneath a huge hanging face with a spectacular hanging arete. Scramble up and start in a left arching crack directly beneath the hanging wall. At the base of the wall/roof step left to a ledge at the base of an open book.
18m (17). Take the open book before traversing across the face using a good rail- to the arete, which is taken to the top.
One of the few routes to face south, this line is at the very right end of the crag and starts in a open book/crack before stepping onto the left face, past a small protrusion to a rail, then onto the top. Best of luck coming down as the opening party got lost trying to walk off.
This route has excellent quality rock and is well worth doing. It is possible to link P1 & 2.
Climb the clean and steep face, aiming for the dihedral. Step left onto a ledge and stance.
Pull through the obvious break in the roof above and head straight up to a large ledge.
Scramble up and use some short pillar like features to gain the crack in the face above. Follow this up and left, until beneath a roof. Bypass the roof on the left hand side.
Scramble to the top.
Descent: walk off via the gully on the left (facing out).
FA:M. Mamacos, J. Henry, E. Rudnick & O. Shipley, 1950
The route starts roughly in the middle of the north-west face of Corridor Buttress next to a scruffy gully.
Climb up clean rock to the right of the gully until it is possible to traverse into the gully itself. Continue up the gully into a cubbyhole stance under an overhang at the top.
Traverse about 2m to the right of the gully, climb up for 6m on a face involving delicate movements, and then use a thin footrail to gain a corner on the left. Continue up and to the left into a recess, proceed past one ledge to another via a reddish-coloured face (this latter ledge is more convenient for belaying the next pitch).
Climb diagonally across the face to the right to reach a block projecting from the face. Step down 1m, traverse 6m to the right and continue diagonally up to a tiny stance next to a large flake leaning against the face.
Proceed diagonally up to the gap in the overhang; climb up through the gap before moving 2m across to the right into a chimney-like recess (the vital flake hold is sound). Continue up the recess to a cave-like stance under the overhangs.
Traverse to the right using the top of an oblong block for handholds. Climb 3m to a comfortable stance above. Walk 6m to the right to the foot of a shallow, yellowish corner.
This pitch is complicated. Climb the yellowish corner, and move to the left to a narrow footrail. Follow the footrail to the right until it ends, step down 1.5m, continue to the right and then proceed up a flake-like block. Climb to a red recess further to the right. Step down 1m, and then traverse to the right again, by using a deeply cut handrail, onto the corner. Climb up to the right of the corner to reach a comfortable stance.
Traverse left to a stance at the foot of the recess.
Climb the recess before moving out left. Continue diagonally to the left across the face to reach a large, bushy stance.
Climb the chimney to the left of the stance.
Traverse left along the ledge to the foot of a gully leading to the summit.
60m of scrambling, including some 'E' standard movements, takes one to the top of the buttress.
An adventurous climb on a wall that saw a handful of long routes put up from the 30's and the 70's. Lots of lichen and bush to contend with, but none the less the line follows good rock and sharing some parts of Grootkop Gable.
Either climb the route from the base, or start from P3.
Start: the route is best reached via abseil.
From the small neck separating Grootkop from Kleinkop, head down the bushy slope to reach a traverse level that cuts across the West face of Grootkop. Here you will find a a fair sized block on the ledge with tat around it. Abseil about 60m to a large ledge. Head down and slightly left (facing out) to a sturdy tree with tat. Abseil another 60m to the base of the wall. Walk about 25m to the right (facing in) to the start of the climb.
Start at the obvious break beneath a small overhang. pull up into the crack, and once established on the face, follow a lichen covered crack diagonally up and left. when the crack peters out, move a few meters right, aiming for a juggy break. follow this as it becomes steeper, going rail to rail until able to mantle onto a ledge. scramble up easily over some blocks for 8m.
Follows the 'half moon' feature described in Grootkop Gable. Start on the left, pull up and move right under the small roof until able to layback up the 'half moon'. at the top of this feature step left and then continue straight up the lichen covered face to a ledge (possible stance). Follow the big corner (used by Grootkop Wall), laybacking until just before a big bush. move left along a rail and then pull up to another rail before stepping slightly right to gain a lichen covered face. continue straight up, until able to scramble up and left to the Pillar feature mentioned in Grootkop Gable.
Follow the crack and pillar to a comfortable, cave-like stance (shared with Grootkop Gable).
Pull through the roof on the left (crux) and follow the crack up and right until you reach a large ledge and make a stance. Traverse left 35m. The next pitch climbs up a white face with a prominent flake about halfway up (possibly the same as Grootkop Gable).
Climb the face, aiming for the flake. once past the flake, continue straight up until you gain a ledge with a block that forms a short chimney on its right side.
Climb up onto the block and pull onto the face above, aiming for a small roof with a hole at the back. avoid the roof on the left and mantleshelf onto a bridge of rock (formed by the hole in the roof). Walk across the bridge and layback up the crack on the right until able to mantle onto a ledge. climb the short face at the back of the ledge, moving right to pull around the corner into a big recess.
Step left and pull up into a wide crack with a jammed block in it. scramble to the top.
This is just a direct combo of some existing routes with linking sections.
Start on Joker but continue straight between two bushes to a dark grey face. Climb the intermittent crack and then step left and through the bulge to join Beeline. Continue straight to a small ledge (below and left of the projecting block where Beeline goes.)
Head up and slightly left to follow a break through the overlap above. Head straight to the top of the crag.
Start up the wide crack feature, but at a good horizontal pocket, head up and right on white rock. Continue up, passing a ledge (which is on your right) until a ledge system is reached. Belay here and then rope traverse left to abseil from the big tree above the wall on the left wall of the wide corner.
Takes the next, wide bottomless crack to the left of Shore Break, after the roof, and continues up this moving slightly left. Where the crack becomes wide and bushy, tend rightwards onto the wall to take the obvious breaks on cleaner rock to the top.
Climb the right-facing corner and rail right under the big roof. Pull up into a crack on the headwall. Follow this until it peters out. Continue straight up to the top of the wall.
Start 3m left of where the roof above the tea cave ends. Pull onto the wall at a broken crack that splits the face above. Head straight up and right keeping between the two large, vague cracks. At a roof (about 15m up), climb the wide crack on its left. At the next ledge continue up over the next roof where a projecting block hangs under the roof. Continue easily up and left ~7m to reach a tat anchor at a touch point.
The big obvious right facing crack. Been open for ages! What a keeper! follow the enormous open book at the right end of the Amphitheatre to a break at the base of steeper ground. Step right and charge forth through the chandelier of rock to a small facey finish. Find a tatted touchstone for a sweet descent. To come to this crag and not climb this route would be a shame.
The first pitch described hereunder starts about three meters to the right of the crack pitch of 'Quiver Crag'.
[F A2] 27m
Climb a slight crack in a white face using four pegs. Continue up free to an overhang above. Move to the right and up to a stance.
[F A2] 20m
A chimney-like crack on the left is climbed to an overhang. Follow a crack to the left and upwards around the block then reach for the top of the block.
[E] 10m
Walk clockwise around a big block and ascend a chimney to a stance on the right.
[19] 37m
Climb up 2m and traverse to the right to a corner. Continue to the right for about 2m. The pitch goes virtually straight up from this point. A resting point will be found 8m above, slightly on the left, followed by a crack to another resting point a further 10m above. Climb the face above using layback holds to a ledge. Ascend from the right of this ledge.
Scramble behind the Step Over Block to the base of the obvious crack (the left one) running up the face.