Routes in Western Cape for selected grade

Sit start with BH on good edge. One big move up to shelf with bad feet. Climb straight up, just left of Legz Akimbo to TO.

Sitstart and climb tending leftward to TO.

Sit start with a low left hand on good hold and climb the corner to top out

Sit start on the arete right of the arrow. Left hand on undercling, right hand on lower layaway. Bump right hand to better layaway then left hand to the top. Top out.

Stand start left of Coheed. RH in slopey two-finger pocket, climb the slab. Large ledge just above the right is off

Stand-start with LH on a good incut grip and climb straight up the slab and jugs.

SS on good holds and mantle to TO.

Sit start, stick to the left and use the small slopers.

Climb up the right side of the arete to the crack for the finish

Keep left of the arete on Poppies Route

Fiesty start (need tiny cams), then lekker to top.

Start is harder if you are short.

Has been bouldered @ 6C Originally climbed as a sport route. '21', 2 Old Bolts.

A Classic!

Standing start, climb the obvious centre slab line; or alternatively from a running start without hands!

2 old bolts

Hang start up on the lower rail on the corner.

Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow.

SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin

Jump-start to the hollow then same TO as U19 Girls Basketball.

SS and climb the crimps to TO.

Stand and climb the slab.

Stand with slopey holds chest height and then climb arete/prow

Sit, move up arete and finish up the slab.

Previous description which was slightly contradictory read: "Sit up to crimp then finish on the left"

Sit-start with left hand high on a sidepull and right hand on a low incut crimp, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on the arête and right hand on an edge.

Sit-start high on a layaway and climb straight up the arête.

Sit-start with left hand on a large pocket and right hand on a large sidepull.

A Direct line up the clean top faces between Barrier and Walk Over.

Start: from the right hand side of the light grey face about 10m right of Sandwich, or just left of the scramble to the base of Frontal.

1. Reach the handrail and traverse left to a tiny ledge just before the corner that overlooks Sandwich. Climb the steep crack above.

2. Climb the crack about 3m to the right, through a bulge in the red rock. Continue via a series of tricky moves up the outside of the pinnacle, climbing the final block to the left.

3. From the top of the block lying on the left of the crack of Barrier Pinnacle, reach height for a jug and pull-up leftwards into a shallow recess. Continue to the roof, then move left until the roof ends. An awkward pull-up leads to a stance above the roof.

4. Climb straight up, then diagonally left to a narrow ledge at the left end of the face.

5. Traverse 8m right along a rail, then climb up in line with the stance above with 3, through steep rock on in-cut holds. Continue past a ledge up short rock bands to the top.

A Good clean steep route, which latches onto the top sections of FF and BE.

Start: about 5m right of Fingertip or 4m right of Hang Ten, beneath a steep recess with a small roof halfway up.

1. Climb the recess with a few awkward and strenuous moves to turn the little overhangs. Stance on a good ledge.

2. Start round to the left, up a flaky face right of Fingertip to a ledge. Move around to the left into a recess. Climb this, breaking out left at the top to a stance above an overhang which overlooks FF's crux.

3. Move left through a corner onto a face with a detached block. climb to the roof, an traverse left to a stance beneath a corner (this pitch is shared with Hang ten.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right. This is the last pitch of BE.

Varied line to the top of the crag.

Head straight up and left into a small recess. Pull around this and up and left to the big ledge. Pull onto the upper tier and follow the line of least resistance up and left to the top.

1. [21] 30m

   Start up an undercling into two layback flakes. Continue up the face to the right of the wide crack and to the left of the orange rock. Once on the big ledge move to the gray face to the right of the chimney.

2. [19] 20m

   Up the grey face to the wide rail. Pull over roof on brown and black rock and the move right to Arête. Near top step left and scramble up to abseil tree.

1. [20] 25m

   Straight up the face at a break in low roof. Pass a higher roof on right and then left of a black roof to reach the ledge.

2. [18] 20m

   Pass the roof on the grey face on the right, then arc back left with a tricky move near the top.

"A friendly tiger, with some good teeth."

Start: the route starts on a brown corner, just right of the tall recess which is first pitch of Tarantella.

1. Pull up the brown corner to a horizontal rail. Do a crouching swing right to a sloping foot-ramp and pull up to a position underneath some blocks. Move left, then right past the blocks to a recess. Climb this until able to hold the top of a vague pillar with a flat scoop on the right. Move onto the pillar. Step left from the top and mantelshelf up onto a long narrow ledge. (Tarentella comes in here, and the next 2m up to the ledge are shared).

2. Take an overhanging break in the white face ahead. Steep pull ups leads to the Halfway Ledge. Traverse left to the corner. (Corner comes up to this corner, and Plumbline takes the rib). Climb the corner to the a big block, then up to a ledge.

3. In front of the big sloping block, the pitches of Crest and Cameron's break through the overhangs. On the right the overhangs end and a yellow, undercut recess lies just left of a wet, grassy crack. Take the small recess (crux). Move left and up to a stance shared with Cameron's Frontal.

4. Step left and up into a crack cutting the overhangs. A big ledge is gained below the long easy ramp of Cameron's.

5. Take the thin finger-rails and diagonal crack through the overhang on the left. Shuffle left to the corner before taking the steep face above, bearing left to a ledge.

6. The tall crack at the back of the ledge is Frontal. On the right is an undercut crack in the corner. Pull around the overhang using a bollard, then climb the corner to a hand rail. Mantelshelf up. Scramble the broken face to a wormhole gully then on to the top.

"A frightening series of desperate pitches, technical and ridiculously strenuous." (MCSA guide 1978).

Start: From the left hand end of a flat slab of rock just right of the drip at Postern Cave.

1. Move up a vague recess for 3m. Traverse r3m right along the ledge and climb a corner to stance on the right side of a large detached flake.

2. Climb the square recess capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang and continue up to a large ledge.

3. Almost immediately behind and 6m right of the easy recess used by Cameron's Frontal is a very steep brown face. Climb a small chimney, followed by an awkward move onto a ledge on the right, from where some pull ups followed by a rounded mantleshelf lands you on the Halfway Ledge. Walk 20m left to a beacon about 8m right of the Bollard pitch of Plumbline. This should be at the base of a slightly overhanging recess.

4. Climb the overhanging recess to a good rail. Strenuous moves to beneath a brown overhang, short move right past a jammed block then up to the ledge above. This ledge is the Plumbline traverse ledge under the overhang.

5. Above and slightly left is a handrail running under the overhang. This is formed by a slab about 1m thick under the overhang and clearly visible from below (on the opening ascent a large wooden wedge was placed about halfway along the traverse to protect the leader). Climb up to the handrail, using two pitons for aid. Hand traverse around the corner, then up to a cubbyhole. 2m higher is a stance.

6. Climb the chimney above and exit onto an obvious ledge with a large block on it.

7. Climb the face above, moving diagonally left and back right again. The pitch reaches the summit 4m left of Plumbline.

On the north-west corner of Spring Buttress between the subsidiary wall on the left and the main amphitheatre on the right is a small weathered wall. The climb ascends a crack to the right of centre on the buttress and then climbs diagonally up right past the overhangs. Start in a shallow overhung scoop.

One of the best routes on the amphitheatre with a fine last pitch.

Start: about 10m right of Gates, below an undercut sloping corner/ramp.

1. Stand on the blocks and pull into the corner. Move up left past some small roofs, then continue up leftwards to stance in a cubbyhole on the right.

2. Traverse right to a good ledge below an obvious slanting corner.

3. Climb the corner and rail to a stance.

4. Climb the faint corner to the roof. Rail right, move up to the next roof, then rail back left to clear the roof. Climb the short wall, past the wide horizontal crack to reach a ledge a little higher. One could stance 4m left on a grassy ledge which allows the belayer to watch the leader on the last pitch.

5. Climb up through two horizontal breaks to beneath an overhang, where one steps left to beneath a clean but featured face. Climb the face diagonally right to reach the top.

Start: About 10m right of Men at arms, directly beneath the huge overhang at the top of the amphitheatre. Just left of a corner and right of some black streaks should be a beacon. ( Fear of Flying takes the break on the right with a peg.

1. Pull up on jugs and a prong, traverse left to gain the white nose. Climb up, tending right to stance below a large flake in a horizontal crack.

2. Climb behind the flake, then up the face and through a small roof to a rail. Traverse right and climb the face to stance at a wide rail on Fear).

3. As for Fear Traverse left to stance at either of the grassy stances or the one before it (they are all great, and work$).

4. Climb the face diagonally right, (as for Railrunner).

Start on Podocarpus and then head up the face (some tricky moves) until able to move left into the vertical hand crack. Straight to top.

Pull onto the wall about 2m right of We are the Robots. Tend right and then up the face to pull through the roof using the flake. Step left and top out on We are the Robots.

Pull up to a rail (#4 Camalot useful) and then up two narrow corners to a small roof. Pull through and then follow the right side of the arete until just before the top, where you step left and then top out.

Follows the break and vertical cracks up to, and through, the roof on the left of the crag.

Start as for Leaf Cycle, but branch off right just before the first fist sized rail. Head up and right break through the steep face, then up yellow rock to crank through the wide vertical crack splitting the top roof. Straight up to top.

Warning: just left of the last section of this crack is a large hollow sounding shield on the face (Marked with X on topo - probably best not to use it, and you do not need it).

What a gem!

1. Take the obvious right slanting break, then straight through to a big cubby with some grass/bushes. Take the obvious break through the overhang above and head am over easy/blocky ground to a comfortable stance next to a healthy bush at the base of a clean white face

2. Start about 3-4m right of the left edge of the wall and head straight up about 4m, then gently right to the top of that shield at the base of a blunt arete. Take the arete, then cross a small slab to a break through a steep finish. If you didn't enjoy this pitch may I suggest fly-fishing?

Just right of a hanging blunt nose is a rounded sheet on the wall- great chicken eating spot. Convince your feet up, then take the fault to the top of the crag. Great Pro.

An improbable looking line for the grade. The route takes a steep launch off the ground to the ledge, then a line series of thin moves to the top, punctuated by a large "Thank God" rest on top of a big flake (NOTE: the flake has since fallen off the face). Doesn't take gear larger than BD#0.75. Strong contender for the best line on the buttress so far.

Same start as route above, only taking the right fork. It shares a rest at the top of the flake. Exciting finish.

On the right end of the orange wall is a turret, take this to the ledge, step 2-3m right to climb the face just left of the open book crack. Follow the cracks to a horizontal break that bends up to a vertical crack just left of the route. From the next rail blast through to the top.

Good climbing up to the left side of the small roof (with black streaks above). Then run-out to the top.

Takes a diagonal break passing the left side of the larger roof on the right side of the crag. Tricky move near the top.

1. At the left side of the crag, pull onto the middle of the sea-facing wall. At the first rail, traverse left to a tiny platform, and climb up just left of some vague arête features. Hanging stance at the level of the main roof.

2. Move slightly right and then straight up, using a layback crack system at the vague bulge. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

Start about 10m left of the CC. Climb the recess, and swing left into some wild roofs. Continue up to the triangle-cut overhang, and turn it on the right.

Start at short grey face. Pull up to a rail and then continue up the centre of the blunt prow. Continue up a left facing corner and at the top step right and then straight up the face to the top.

Take the crack thru the stripes! Share a few moves with Euphrates at the bottom before breaking away and climbing the stripes.

A great, sustained route with a fantastically exposed 3rd pitch that requires a confident leader.

1. Start as for Home Ground Advantage, but head slightly left up the face to large boulder on next ledge. Go up the vague arete a few meters right of the yellow face. At the big ledge, move 2m right to belay below white rock, at wobbly boulder (which is on the left side of the ledge below the brown wall to the right).

2. From the block, head up the light grey rock for about 3m to gain a ledge, then step left to a vague recess. Follow this straight up to a square ledge under the roof at the base of the arête.

3. A great pitch. Exposed and pumpy. Move left and pull through a bulge, traverse back right to the airy arête. Head straight up and at a finger rail, move right to gain a vague groove, which leads to the next ledge.

4. Just left of the belay spot, there is a thin crack forming a flake about 2m up. Use this to gain a rail. Step right and up using a good pocket. From the ledge, head up and right to gain a wide corner. Follow this diagonally left to a small platform. Now continue up and slightly right until the top.

Start on good hold and move up the slab on beautiful pockets

1. [17] 17m

2. [16] 20m

3. [20] 10m

4. [16] 30m

1. [20] 30m

2. [19] 18m

1. [19] 20m

2. [21] 20m

3. [21] 10m

4. [21] 25m

1. [20] 25m

2. [16] 17m

3. [19] 14m

1. [20] 25m

2. [16] 17m

3. [21] 25m

4. [19] 35m

1. [20] 25m

2. [21] 35m

A nice link-up, that potentially has some new climbing.

1. [21] Start up Last Tango but keep straight to join REM. Pull into the step, bottomless corner and up to the highest overlap and rail 1m right to a stance on a narrow ledge (Essentially the Wet Dreams pitch 2)

2. [21] Step left from the stance and through the break (shared with REM) but then head left and up to a rail. Traverse further left and then up to the next rail. Continue a little further left climb up a vague seam arcing to the left (and below the left end of the narrow roof a few meters higher). Climb up passing the roof on its left side to join The Cruise and follow this to the top.

1. [19] 20m

2. [21] 40m

Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

1. [18] 12m Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point, you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

2. [21] 17m Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy layaways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

3. [19] 10m From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

4. [18] 8m Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

5. [20] 30m Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due to the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

Start 2m right of 'Staircase'

1. [20] 20m

   ???

2. [17] 15m

   ???

3. [20] 20m

   ???

1. [18] 12m

2. [14] 26m

3. [16] 10m

4. [16] 30m

5. [13] 15m

6. [20] 20m