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Access: Coronavirus COVID-19 Alert level 2

Physical distancing and restrictions on leisure and social activities to prevent a resurgence of the virus.

Alert level 2 will be in place from 31 May 2021. Alert level 2 was in place from 18 August to 20 September 2020. Adjustments to the regulations will be updated as soon as possible after it is published.

https://www.gov.za/coronavirus/alert-level-2

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 8 weeks ago

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Access issues inherited from White Umfolozi River

South Bank: This is private land however the owner is very fond of climbers and has even erected a great camping spot for us. While he likes us booking is essential. Please respect him and keep his views of the climbing community good ones.

North bank: This is also private land. The owner of this land is not fond of climbers and has banned all climbing his side of the bank.

January 2016 The land on the north bank of the White Umfolozi was sold a number of yeara ago. All climbing on the north bank has been banned by the new owner pending successful negotiations regarding liability and indemnity in the event of any accident. The current position regarding access for climbers is very delicate. Please do not jeopardize our access negotiations by ignoring the current ban on climbing on the north bank.

Ethic inherited from White Umfolozi River

Please remember that the owner of the north bank is not fond of climbers so if you see people on the top of the north bank who aren't climbers, please try stay to the south bank until they leave. There are also snakes, crocodiles and leopards in the area so please don't go night climbing and be aware. Keep the campsite clean and don't break things as the owner has people living right there. This is to help you if something does go wrong with the house or its appliances. They are also there to prevent people taking your things as it has been known that people who are walking down the river run up to the hut and go "shopping". However this is very rare. It is etiquette to help with the "gardening" as the climbs aren't often climbed.

Routes

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Grade Route

2003 : chains and 1 or 2 top bolts are missing. Beware, and if you are able to climb the grade, sort it out and share the info

FA: Damion McHendry, 1997

FA: Rodney Owen, Gavin Peckham & Jonathon Wigley, 1996

FA: Eric Penman & Harley Green, 1993

FA: 1986

FA: Richard Knott, 1992

FA: Shaun Cooke & Neil McQueen, 1992

FA: Craig Pearman, 1992

FA: Neil McQueen, 1992

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gerald Camp, 1997

FA: Gerald Camp & Ian Manson, 1994

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1986

FA: Gerald Camp, 1992

FA: Gavin Peckham, 2002

FA: Gerald Camp, 1992

FA: Neil McQueen, 1992

FA: Neil McQueen, 1992

FA: Brett Clarke, 1992

FA: Neil McQueen, 1992

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1993

Set: Andrew Russell-Boulton

FA: Gerald Camp, 1992

FA: Craig Robertson, 1993

Start as for Purple People Eater but then tend left up a vague crack for ~3m before following a right slanting ramp (no gear) for ±4m to a horizontal break. Continue up and then slightly right to the chains on Dingiswayo.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Oct 2019

FA: Gerald Camp, 1992

A physically and mentally demanding voyage…

Start on Dingiswayo but continue up the big corner and then fight through the slick, undercut open book (take care with cams as the rock is hard and slippery). At the roof rail left to where the finger crack continues up to the final roof. At this point, there is a very narrow horizontal slot for micro cams that are strenuous and fiddly to place. Embrace the run out and traverse left across the tricky face for ±3m to a good foothold and horizontal seam for micro nuts – these features are at a point below a good undercling in the final roof. Head up to the roof, and at the undercling and pull back right through the roof on great holds. Notes: Double ropes recommended. Consensus grading needed – cruxes are about grade 24, but the overall experience is considerably harder.

FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate, Oct 2019

FA: Angus Lamming

FA: Gerald Camp, 1999

FA: Gerald Camp & Allison Pridgeon, 1993

FA: Richard Knott; Gavin Peckham; Rodney Owen, Richard Knott, Gavin Peckham, Rodney Owen & Rodney Owen, 1999

FA: Eric Penman, Donovan Gosher & Kirsten Head, 1993

FA: Gerald Camp, Donovan Gosher, Kirsten Head & Kirsten Head, 1993

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