Routes in South America

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

Great mixed multi pitch 5 minutes from the hut. All belays well bolted and double as abseil decent. Single 60m rope is fine. The first pitch starts approx 10m left of large boulder and can be climbed two ways; a grade 5 with some really cool crack climbing or a meandering 4 arriving at double ring bots. Second pitch is the hardest, graded 5+. From second belay head up crack to ledge. Traverse right 12 meters to double ring bolts to finish the climb - if you go left, it's a 6b. Optional 4th pitch (last pitch of Sifuentes-Monti), grade 5 30m. Can rap off the front via three 30m raps or also use ring bolt behind climb. This decent requires short rap to ledge, traverse left to double ring bolts

Beautiful route following the broken crack line. Head left at final bolt for the anchor.

En la guía figura como un 7a+ pero hay algún error. Debería ser un 6c / 6c+. De todas formas es una excelente vía.

Subir un desplome, montar un techo y terminar bajo otro techito.

Route Video

Typical bouldery start then great technical climbing on crimps up the face.

Short and pumpy with great long moves through the crux. Stay left after second bolt so you don't stray onto the 11d. 2 glue in bolts at anchor.

One of the most popular routes at Frey. Starts on the right side of the Agua Frey near the back of the pinnacle. 1. 35m (5b) Major corner to bolted anchor on small ledge 2. 15m (5c) Splitter diagonal handcrack to anchor on summit.

Climbs the left face of this sector, left trending.

Lovely long route following the obvious flake feature.

Follows the crack right trending to the roof.

An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds. Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.

This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.

Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.

P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.

1. 25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.

2. 20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.

3. 20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.

4. 25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.

5. 35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6. Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.

6. 25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.

After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.

Double bolted anchors at all stations. Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).

Climb up on the ledge and then follow the corner / dihedral and up right to the anchors. Don't get confused and climb left to the anchors of "Animalario" which can also be reached easily.

Cambio del reunió y dos últimas chapas 2022

The first two bolts of this route have had the fixed hangars removed.

Starts on top of the ledge in the corner and climbs beautiful rock.

Same start as Prosopoeyate then left.

Known locally as "the easiest rock climb in El Chalten", at least, it is the easiest multi-pitch. Has been climbed in winter with ice axes and crampons.

From the wooden bridge walk south towards the old orange bridge/flying fox thing. Take first small branch trail you come to, just before the orange flying fox, the track leads to a massive boulder field from significant rockfall, the climb starts just up and right from the debris field.

The climb is recognisable by the large smooth slab comprising the top third which has a right trending diagonal crack with a belay cave half-way.

Apparently no harder than 6a.

To descend, from the final anchor, walk north along the ledge for a few metres to a rap station. It would be awkward to abseil from the final anchor and hit the previous belay due to the diagonal nature of that pitch.

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

Shares anchor with Verde va.

Climbs the flake to the chimney where it is run out. Be prepared or place gear.

Primera vía abierta en junio de 1993 Pablo de la Fuente y Damián Benegas Esta en la cara este, tiene algunos clavos viejos y en las placas chapas. Reuniones con chapas con millones. Subir demora aprox. 4 a 5hs, rapeles 3hs.

L1 4º Al final ir a izquierda L2 5º Al final ir a la izquierda L3 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L4 5º Al final ir a la derecha L5 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L6 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L7 4º Al final ir a la derecha L8 3º tránsito por terrazas con pircas hacia la derecha, asegurar cuerda corta.

Equipo cordada de dos: Casco infaltable, agua 2 litros algo para comer y abrigo. Cuerda de 70 metros o dos de 50 metros Estación de relevo x2 (cinta tubular 1.5 o 2m y 3 mosquetones con seguro) Empotradores set hasta el nº4 opcional repetir el Nº2. Cintas largas con mosquetón 6 6 expreses largos (para clavos y chapas) Placa y cordin para el rapel Linterna

Bajada En la cumbre hacia el sur por terrazas con pircas -Primer rapel corto 10m y luego continua hacia la izquierda rodeando un bloque. -Segundo rapel por un techo 20metros a terraza a la izquierda (OJO NO PASARSE) en tal caso más abajo hay un puente de roca con cordin y alguna chapa. Limpiar la zona al bajar de rocas sueltas y cuando se recupera la cuerda mucho cuidado por si cae piedra. Se llega a una primera reunión original para cuerdas cortas y 5 metros más abajo en una repisa otra reunión con anillas nueva mucho más cómoda. -Tercer rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos. -Cuarto rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos, ojo con sacar la cuerda y que se trabe. -Quinto Rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos sin complicaciones.

Climbs the featured face just before the trail heads up for a bit.

Climbs the obvious roof.

Thin crack line in the first half then a small roof to negotiate. Finishes off with a wider crack on a cool arete feature.

Climbs the roof.

A short route well protected from the rain under a big roof.

At far left side of slabs, directly in front of east-west road coming past Koonek hostel. 6 bolts up to 2 rings, can scramble off left from top.

Route without a name. Number from the Santuario's topo.

Climbs the short arete left on the balcony to amazing huecos.

Starts on the ledge reached from sector 1 and shares the anchor with ‘Echando a perder se aprende’.