A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Alto Mijares / Olba
471 in Crag
-
1.1.
Hoz del Mijares 139 in Crag
-
1.1.1.
El Lado Umbrio 111 in Sector
- 1.1.1.1. Central Park / El Habladero 39 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2. Obras Selectas 31 in Sector
- 1.1.1.3. Sombra Perpetua / El Tubo 30 in Sector
- 1.1.1.4. El paraíso 11 in Sector
-
1.1.2.
El Lado Soleado 11 in Sector
- 1.1.2.1. Imperio del Sol 11 in Sector
-
1.1.3.
Rocas del Refugio 17 in Sector
- 1.1.3.1. Pirámide del Refugio 4 in Sector
- 1.1.3.2. Bloque del Refugio 3 in Sector
- 1.1.3.3. Bloque del Jardín 6 in Sector
- 1.1.3.4. Mirador 4 in Sector
- 1.1.3.5. Pared de la Familia 0 in Sector
-
1.1.1.
El Lado Umbrio 111 in Sector
-
1.2.
Casucho 136 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Callejón 68 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Don Quijote / Coro Alto 19 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Esquinas 49 in Sector
-
1.3.
Palomarejas 143 in Crag
- 1.3.1. El Lado Umbrio / Ira de Neptuno / Olimpo / El cielo nocturno / Soñar con ... 42 in Sector
-
1.3.2.
El Lado Soleado 101 in Sector
- 1.3.2.1. Esplanada 23 in Sector
- 1.3.2.2. Sol de Invierno 61 in Sector
- 1.3.2.3. El Más Allá 17 in Sector
-
1.4.
Fonseca 26 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Playa 12 in Sector
- 1.4.2. Zarza-Mora 9 in Sector
- 1.4.3. El lado oscuro 5 in Sector
- 1.5. Peñas de Santa Isabel 26 in Crag
-
1.6.
Los Picayos de Albentosa 1 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Ziegenbock 1 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Hoz del Mijares 139 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Alto Mijares 471 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.153009, -0.697746
- La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
- No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
- Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
- No dejes papel higiénico.
- Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
- Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
- Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).
description
==[en]==
High quality limestone and routes in a beautifully landscape with sectors dispersed enough to avoid the crowds and manifold enough to come back again and again.
The 'Alto Mijares' area contains different sectors in good limestone near the Mijares river close to the village of Olba in the southeastern part of the provice Teruel.
==[de]== Tolle Routen in ausgezeichneten Kalk eingebettet in einer schönen Landschaft mit Sektoren die so verteilt und abwechslungsreich sind, dass man immer wieder was neues Endecken und an einsamen Orten klettern kann.
Das Klettergebiet 'Alto Mijares' in der Provinz Teruel beschreibt die verschiedenen Sektoren am oberen Flusslauf des Mijares nahe des Dorfes Olba.
==[es]==
La zona del 'Alto Mijares' se compone de diversos sectores de caliza alrededor del alto río Mijares cerca del pueblo Olba en el sureste de la provincia de Teruel.
approach
== [en] ==
International airports are available in Barcelona, Madrid or closest is Valencia. From there in 1 to 4 hours by car to Olba. Alternatively, you can travel by train to Teruel and from there continue by rental car. Samar Bus (http://samar.es/) offers several daily trips between Valencia and Teruel. From the stop 'Apeadero de Rubielos' in Venta del Aire, it is about 10km to Olba.
Coming from the coast, it is advisable to pass Castelló de la Plana via the beautiful CV-20 at Montanejos. Coming from Valencia or Madrid, leave the motorway (A23) at exit 71 (Venta del Aire).
==[de]==
Internationale Flughäfen gibt es in Barcelona, Madrid oder am nächsten in Valencia. Von dort in jeweils 1 bis 4 Stunden mit dem Auto nach Olba. Alternativ kann mit dem Zug bis Teruel gereist werden und von dort mit dem Mietwagen weiter. Samar Bus (http://samar.es/) bietet mehrmals täglich Reisen zwischen Valencia und Teruel an. Von der Haltestelle 'Apeadero de Rubielos' in Venta del Aire sind es noch etwa 10km bis nach Olba.
Von der Küste kommend empfiehlt es sich bei Castelló de la Plana über die schöne CV-20 an Montanejos vorbei zu fahren. Von Valencia oder Madrid kommend verlässt man die Autobahn (A23) an der Abfahrt 71 (Venta del Aire).
==[es]==
where to stay
Refugio Alto Mijares
Masia La Hoz
(Cta. de Olba, Casa Bolea)
44480 San Agustin / Teruel
Tel: +34 602553676
==[en]==
Olba is a good base-camp for the various climbing crags in the Alto Mijares valley. The village and its barrios offer some hostels a well-sorted village shop and some bars as well.
==[de]==
Olba ist ein guter Ausgangsort für die verschiedenen Sektoren im Alto Mijares Gebiet. Das Dorf und seine verschiedenen Barrios bieten verschiedene Unterkünfte, einen kleinen Dorfladen sowie einige Bars.
==[es]==
Olba es una buena base para acceder a los diferentes sectores de la zona. El pueblo y sus barrios ofrecen unos albergues tanto como una pequeña tienda y unos bares.
ethic
1.1. Hoz del Mijares 139 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.128302, -0.682362
- Driving Directions:
- From Olba take the TE-V-2001 in direction to the highway Venta de Aires. Leave at Casa Bolea and follow a small road for approx. 1km and park your car above the electric power station in front of a relay station.
- Anfahrt:
- Von Olba in auf der TE-V-2001 Richtung Autobahnauffahrt Venta de Aires. Bei Casa Bolea abfahren und die schmale Piste etwa 1km bis zum E-Werk folgen. Oberhalb vom E-Wek vor einem Umspannwerk parken.
approach
==[en]==
==[de]==
==[es]==
1.1.1. El Lado Umbrio 111 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.127370, -0.683151
- Walking Directions:
- From the parking lot walk in direction of the down pipe from the power plant. Use an iron stair an follow the pipe steep uphill until you reach the rock.
- Zustieg:
- Vom Parkplatz zu Fuss in Richtung Fallrohr des Wasserkraftwerkes über eine Leiter und weiter dem Fallrohr folgend steil ansteigend zu den Felsen.
description
==[en]==
Shadowy sector for hot summer days that offers quite long routes in superb rock quality.
Some of the difficult routes where equipped by Pedro Pons in the early 2000s. Meanwhile the old routes have been improved and therefore you can enjoy your efforts in the hard projects.
==[de]==
Schattiger Sommersektor mit recht langen Routen in sehr schönem Fels.
Einige der schweren Routen wurden Anfang der 2000er von Pedro Pons eingerichtet und wurden mittlerweile Saniert, so dass man seine Anstrengungen in den harten Projekten geniessen kann.
==[es]==
Sector umbrillo ideal para el verano que ofrece viás largas en roca excelente.
Unas de las vias mas dificiles, equipadas al principio de los años 2000 por Pedro Pons, cuya protección no esta al dia se estan renovando de momento.
approach
Disabled
==[en]==
You will reach the rock between the sector 'Obras Selectas' downhill to the left and 'Sombra Perpetua' a bit further uphill and right. To reach 'Central Park' traverse all the way to the left on the bottom of the rock.
==[de]==
Den Felsen erreicht man zwischen den Sektoren 'Obras Selectas' und 'Sombra Perpetua'. Zum Ersteren hält man sich leicht absteigend links und zum zweiten weiter ansteigend. Um zum 'Central Park' zu gelangen hält man sich immer weiter links am Wandfuss.
==[es]==
  |
1.1.1.1. Central Park 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.126802, -0.682402
- Im linken Teil, der von einem oberen Band startet das über ein Fixseil erreicht wird, gibt es Steilplatten in scharfen Fels erster Güte.
- Im Mittleren Teil ist bedingt durch die Länge oft Ausdauer angesagt.
- Die Routen im rechten Teil sind um einen grossen Pfeiler verteilt und bieten einige steile Lochklettereien aber auch klassische Linien.
description
==[en]==
==[de]==
Ein sehr interessanter Sektor für Klettereien ab dem 6. Grad. Seine Schattige Lage ermöglicht entspanntes Klettern an heissen Tagen und ein schöner Lagerplatz im mittleren Teil machen ihn auch für Gruppen und Familien attraktiv. Einige Routen sind sehr Lang und benötigen eine entsprechende Seillänge.
Die Klettereien sind sehr unterschiedlich:
==[es]==
history
==[en]==
==[de]==
Viele Routen im linken Teil des Sektors wurden schon um die Jahrtausendwende von Carlos de Dios und Kollegen eingerichtet und fristetet lange Zeit ein völlig unberechtigtes Schattendarsein. Erst mit der Neu- und Resterschliessung der Vorderen Sektoren bekam dieser schöne Sektor seine berechtigte Aufmerksammkeit - nicht zuletzt wegen der schönen Routen im Mittleren Schwierigkeitsbereich in oft Ausgezeichneten Fels. Die neusten und sehr vielfältigen Routen entstanden im rechten Teil ab 2012.
==[es]==
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left==[en]== Follow the fixed rope at the left to the comfy ledge where all routes start. ==[de]== Mit Hilfe eines Fixseiles auf das grosse und bequeme Band von wo die Routen starten. ==[es]== | ||||||||
| 1 |
Energía ilimitada
Set by Eddy | 8a+ | 9 | |||||
| 2 |
Profecía de maños
Set by Frodo | 7b+ | 8 | |||||
| 3 |
Directo al fisio
Set by Renaud | 7c | 8 | |||||
| 4 |
Where are the tufas?
Set by Pitxi, Jun 2018 | 7c | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 5 |
Par de apriete
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 8a/a+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
Etiqueta negra
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 7c+/8a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
Casa Babylon
Set by Pixi, 1997 | 7a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Delaguasa
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 6c+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Hay Payo
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 7a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Triangulame
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 6b+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Whisper Potter
Set by Renaud | 7a+ | 12 | |||||
| 12 |
Casa Bolinga
Set by Pitxi, 2018 | 7b+ | 28m, 12 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 13 |
Falso Movimiento
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Perez & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 14 |
El estado de las Cosas
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Calodedio, Enric Muñoz & Manolo Pérez | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 15 | ★★ III República | 6b | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ La Armada Brancaleone
Warning Flora and Fauna: Hornets ==[en]== First a steep face with a dodgy position to clip the 5. bolt and than a good rest ledge. Sustained face climbing on sharp pockets in perfect limestone crowns that route if you bring the right technique. ==[de]== Zuerst eine steile Einstiegswand wo das klippen des 5 Bolts etwas unangenehm sein kann. Anschliessend ein schönes Band zum rasten bevor es in die fantastische Steilplatte in grauen Fels geht, die einiges an Übersicht und Stehvermögen abverlangt. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6b+ | 30m, 10 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Simplicissimus da Norcia
==[en]== You will love the first part of this route. The second one is a bit more demanding and follows a crack to the anchors. ==[de]== Die Einstiegswand wird in sehr schöner und leichter Kletterei überwunden. Nach dem Band folgt ein ausdauernder Riss der etwas ungriffiger ist als er aussieht. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6a+ | 28m, 14 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Ignatius
==[en]== An interesting edge is the first part of that nice route followed by a face section on sharp pockets. Quite a bit expo to the same anchors of 'Simplicissimus da Norcia'. ==[de]== Anfänglich interessant auf der Kante entlang zum Band und von dort in schöner Lochkletterei, bei etwas sportlicher Sicherung, zum Umlenker von 'Simplicissimus da Norcia'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez & Calodedio | 6b | 28m, 11 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Viaje al Fin de la Noche
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez & Calodedio | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||||
Center==[en]== The routes are located at the bottom of the cliff around a comfy rest place. ==[de]== Die Routen starten vom tiefsten Punkt der Wand an einem bequemen Lagerplatz. ==[es]== | ||||||||
| 20 | ★★ El ciervo sagrado | 6c+ | 30m, 14 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ El Tratamiento Ludoviko
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 7a | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 22 |
Todos los Fuegos el Fuego
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6c+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Ravachol
==[en]== ==[de]== Zuerst gutmütige Wandkletterei dann eine Hangel bei dem die Arme mit jedem Meter dicker werden. Mit den nötigen Reserven oder guter Technik ein sehr schöner Weg. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6b | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 24 |
★ Sin Dolor
==[en]== ==[de]== Im Vergleich kurze und genüssliche Wandkletterei. Der Stand kann benutzt werden um kurze und leichtere Varianten aus den beiden Nachbarrouten zu generieren. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 6a+ | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 25 |
★★ La Nit Corta
Warning Fixed Gear: No reseña to the anchors of 'Sin Dolor' | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
| 26 |
★★ La Nit del Dip
==[en]== ==[de]== Sehr lange Routen mit einigen kniffligen Passagen bevor es zu einem Band weit oben geht. Nach diesem guten Ruhepunkt Ausgesetzt und anhaltend schwierig zum Umlenker ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 6c | 38m, 15 | |||||
| 27 |
★★ Hasta el fin del Mundo
==[en]== ==[de]== Sehr schöne lange Route mit steigenden Schwierigkeiten. Klettert man nur bis zum Zwischenstand bleibt es bei einer genussreichen 6b. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Calodedio, Enric Muñon, Manolo Pérez & Carmenxu Suárez | 7a | 37m, 2, 16 | |||||
| 28 |
★★ La Gran Ilusión
==[en]== ==[de]== Start in einer schönen Verschneidung. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Calodedio, Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez & Manolo Pérez | 6b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ Monsieur Verdoux
==[en]== ==[de]== Gleicher Start und Umlenker wie 'La Gran Ilusión' Oben dann schwieriger rechts haltend. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6c | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 30 |
★★ Humillados y Ofendidos
==[en]== ==[de]== Die geschwungene Linienführung versucht die Schwachstellen der Wand zu nutzen. Dennoch gibt es einige Knacknüsse. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 6b+ | 26m, 10 | |||||
Right==[en]== Firsts section left of 'Obras selectas' around a large pillar. ==[de]== Erster Teil links vom 'Obras Selectas' um einen grossen Pfeiler herum. ==[es]== | ||||||||
| 31 |
★★★ El Jabato Alado
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 32 |
★★ Paluis / Diedro Magico
==[en]== An enjoyable dihedral ==[de]== Genussreiche Verschneidung über den Pfeiler hinaus ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 5c | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 33 |
El Cid
==[en]== Somehow not easy but diversified. ==[de]== Nirgends wirklich einfach aber Abwechslungsreich. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6a+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 34 |
★ Groenlandia 2012
==[en]== Some tricky positions in that demanding route. ==[de]== Einige trickreiche Züge werden hier abverlangt ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 35 |
★★★ El encantador de Palabras
==[en]== A stellar steep route mostly on jugs. ==[de]== Eine tolle Route an zumeist grossen Griffen. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Habrapalabra
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 37 |
★ Babel
Set by Txenxo | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 38 |
★★ Duolingo
Set by Txenxo | 7a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 39 |
★★ Duden
Set by Txenxo | 7a | 15m, 5 | |||||
1.1.1.2. Obras Selectas 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127451, -0.683554
1.1.1.3. Sombra Perpetua 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127582, -0.684411
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pared Noroeste | ||||||||
| 1 |
Sin Perdon / Sinperdón
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox | 7b+ | 35m, 11 | |||||
| 2 |
Sincronía rota / Los Cojones del Cainejo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 8a | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 3 | Pepa Pig | 5+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 4 | George | 5 | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
Trío de ases
Set by sergio & Diego Denia | 7c | 30m, 9 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Viví los 90
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Franky | 6c+ | 22m, 11 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★ Sombra de ojos
==[de]== Vorsicht an den Blöcken beim Ausspreizen in der Mitte - nicht zu weit nach Links! ==[en]== Beware of the blocks when stemming in the middle - not too far to the left! ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 13 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Las sombras chinescas
==[de]== Der Überhang kann schön mit einer Kurzen Rechtsquerung überwunden werden. Sehr abwechslungsreich. ==[en]== The overhang can be nicely overcome with a short right crossing. Very varied. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 12 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Magic Tendon
Set by Sebas | 7a+ | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
Zas, en toda la Boca
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 11 |
Mal Sujeto
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b+ | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ La Reina de los Gatos
Set by Gadafi & Victor | 6a | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 13 |
★ El Emperador de los Gatos
==[de]== Die Verlängerung von 'La Reina de los Gatos' fügt noch einige steile Züge in löschrigen Fels hinzu. ==[en]== The extension of 'La Reina de los Gatos' adds some steep moves on nice pockets. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 30m, 15 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
La izquierda del Tubo | ||||||||
| 14 |
Chestainikio
Set by Edy | 7c+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
| 15 |
El llanto de Rampucen
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7c+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ A ciegas
Set by Txenxo | 7a+ | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Euforia Inducida
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b | 30m, 2, 13 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Sir Chris de Loida / Loida se sir Chris
To the first anchors of 'Euforia Inducida' | 7b+ | 35m, 13 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Entretubo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Jota & Txenxo | 6c+ | 27m, 12 | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Gran Hermano
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 27m, 13 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Vanyou
📷 de la vía en Instagram Set by Txenxo | 7a+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 22 | ★★ Quien más habla malacara | 7b | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 23 | ★★ Septiembre | 7a+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
La derecha del Tubo | ||||||||
| 24 |
de Pirata?
Set by Pirata, 2015 | 7a | ||||||
| 25 |
Diversión por un tubo
Set by Victor Garrido, Mar 2018 | 7b | 30m, 14 | |||||
| 26 |
La Perla Negra
Set by Victor Garrido, Mar 2018 | 7b | 30m, 14 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 27 |
★★★ Walhalla
Set Mar 2018 | 7a | 32m, 15 | |||||
| 28 |
★★★ Eva
Set by Samu Vidal, Mar 2018 | 7a+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
| 29 |
42 primaveras
Set by Samu Vidal, Mar 2019 | 7b | 35m, 17 | |||||
| 30 |
Mirko's Place
Set by Samu Vidal, Apr 2019 | 7a | 22m, 11 | |||||
1.1.1.4. El paraíso 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127880, -0.685490
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
San Agustin
Set by sergio, 2015 | 7b | 9 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ El deseo
Set by sergio, 2015 | 7a | 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Jaque mate
Set by sergio, 2015 | 7b | 11 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Finnissima
Set by sergio, 2015 | 7a+ | 13 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Acupuntura de Altura
Set by Diego Denia, 2015 | 6c+ | 10 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Climax de Olba
Set by Diego Denia, 2015 | 7a | 13 | |||||
| 7 |
La Rara
Set by Diego Denia & Laura, 2015 | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Atrapa Sueños
Set by Diego Denia & Laura | 7a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Bavaresa indulgente
Set by Diego Denia & Laura | 6b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
Rabiosa
Set by Diego Denia & Laura | 7b+ | 14 | |||||
| 11 |
Aritmética vertical
Set by sergio | 7c | 12 | |||||
1.1.2. El Lado Soleado 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129199, -0.681635
approach
==[es]==
Desde el parking o desde el Refugio bajamos y pasaremos por el antiguo Molino de la Hoz. Más adelante, cruzamos el puente sobre el rio Mijares. A escasos 50 metros encontramos una senda a la izquierda que nos llevaría a los restos arqueológicos. Continuando por esa senda y pasando dichos restos arqueológico y un túnel llegaríamos a mano derecha al sector 'Imperio del Sol'
 |
1.1.2.1. Imperio del Sol 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.129636, -0.682395
1.1.3. Rocas del Refugio 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 40.125679, -0.676868
 |
1.1.3.1. Pirámide del Refugio 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.126766, -0.677254
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Nefertitis | 5c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 2 | ★★★ Anuket | 6c | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Amun | 5c | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Ra | 6b | 12m, 6 | |||||
1.1.3.2. Bloque del Refugio 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.126120, -0.677307
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Project | 10m | ||||||
| 2 | ★ Tim | 6c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 3 | ★ Susan | 6b | 10m, 3 | |||||
1.1.3.3. Bloque del Jardín 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 40.125044, -0.676246
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ YoYo
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 2 |
★ Diabolo
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 3 |
Devil Sticks
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 4 |
Pelotas Malabares
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 5 |
★ Rubiks Cube
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 5b | 10m, 6 | |||
| 6 |
★ Boomerang
Set by Nicky, May 2019 | 4c | 10m | |||
1.1.3.4. Mirador 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.124480, -0.677319
approach
==[en]==
==[de]==
Vom Refugio die unbefestigte Waldstrasse in einigen Serpentinen Bergauf bis kurz unter die Hauptstrasse. Rechts beim Steinmann wenige Meter durch den Wald zur Wand.
==[es]==
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ ¿Dónde está Marcelo?
==[en]== ==[de]== Etwas pressig und oben nach rechts zum Umlenker von 'Aromat'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Simon Birk & Nicky, 16 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 16 Oct 2017 | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Aromat
==[en]== ==[de]== Schöne Lochkletterei mit einigen Längenzügen. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Simon Birk & andi, 14 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 14 Oct 2017 | 6a+ | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Cumpleaños
==[en]== ==[de]== Nach dem kräftigen Start folgen einige technische Züge über die Bänder. Oben im Rechtsbogen zum selben Umlenker wie 'Buena Vista Climbing Club' ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nicky & Simon Birk, 17 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 17 Oct 2017 | 6c | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Buena Vista Climbing Club
==[en]== ==[de]== Start in Verschneidung dann direkt und abwechslungsreich durch die leicht überhängende Wand mit schönem Finale. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Mirko, Nicky & Simon Birk, 21 Oct 2017 FFA: Nicky, 21 Oct 2017 | 6c+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
1.1.3.5. Pared de la Familia 0 routes in Sector
1.2. Casucho 136 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129510, -0.673098
- Familien:
- Auch wenn das Routenangebot für Kinder bisher gering ist sind doch die Einstiegsbereiche einiger Sektoren als Familienlagerplatz geeignet. Besonders die Sektoren um den Bergfreundeturm und die 'Esquina española' bieten sich als Spielplatz für die Kleinen an. An der Brücke über den Mijares befindet sich eine schöne Badestelle in 3 Minuten Entfernung vom Abzweig zum Casucho-Hof.
description
==[en]==
Above the Casucho homestead the homonymous climbing area offers a good view on the junction of the rivers Mijares and Palomarejas. The stretched cliff is separated into multiple small sectors. The so called "detached rocks" (some pinnacles) and a nice rock-alley are the highlights of the spot. The common Casucho pitch is steep pocket pulling up to 30m.
==[de]==
Oberhalb des Casucho-Hofes befindet sich das gleichnamige Klettergebiet am Zusammenfluss des Mijares und des Palomarejas. Das langgezogende Felsband weist eine Vielzahl von unterschiedlichen Sektoren auf deren Besonderheit sicherlich die "Abgetrennten Steine" (Felstürme) und eine schöne Felsengasse sind. Es handelt sich um mehrheitlich senkrechte Routen in löchrigem Kalk mit einer Höhe von bis zu 30m.
==[es]==
Situada arriba de la masía Casucho esta área ofrece unas vistas hermosas sobre los ríos Mijares y Palomarejas. Una pared larga se divide en múltiples sectores, entre aquellos destacan las "piedras partidas" (unos torres/agujas) y el callejón. Mayoritariamente son vías en caliza agujerada con una altura hasta 30m.
approach
==[en]==
Leave TE-V-2001 where it crosses the Mijares river between Los Giles and Los Villanuevas. Drive along a gravel road on the right hand side of the river (upstream) to 'Casucho'. Road ends after approx. 500m on a chain.
From there walk 10 to 15min uphill to the sectors as indicated in the picture.
==[de]==
Auf der TE-V-2001 zwischen Los Giles und Los Villanuevas an der Brücke über den Mijares abbiegen. Auf der rechten Seite flussaufwärts etwa 500m auf Schotterpiste bis zum Ende der Strasse am Casucho Gehöft fahren und dort so parken das der Wendeplatz vor der Kette frei bleibt (Nicht hinter der Kette parken).
Vom Parkplatz aus in 10-15 Minuten gemäß dem Foto über Terrassen duch einen schönen Wald ansteigend zu den Sektoren.
==[es]==
Salimos de la TE-V-2001 entre Los Giles y Los Villanuevas justo después del Puente Cantal (llegando desde Los Giles) y nos dirigimos a mano izquierda al 'Casucho'. Seguimos la pista unos 500m hasta el final.
Desde el parking llegamos en 10-15min a los sectores seguiendo los carteles.
 |
1.2.1. Callejón 68 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.130368, -0.673983
history
Es wird berichtet, dass der grosse der Abgespaltenen Türme (Bergfreundeturm) wie die freistehenden Türme im Volksmund heissen, schon früher von Bewohnern des Casucho Gehöftes mit Hilfe von Seilwürfen zwecks Honigernte bestiegen wurde. Die erste bekannte sportliche Begehung erfolgte 2010 von Mirko und Nicky Hochmuth clean über den heute schon etwas besser gesicherten und geputzten 'Bergfreundeweg'.
La más alta de las torres divididas (Bergfreundeturm), como se llama popularmente a las torres independientes, fue escalada antes por los residentes de la casa de Casucho con la ayuda de una cuerda arrojándolas para cosechar miel. El primer ascenso deportivo conocido tuvo lugar en 2010 por Mirko y Nicky Hochmuth en el 'Bergfreundeweg', que ahora está un poco mejor asegurado y limpio.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
El Bidón
| ||||||||
| 1 |
★★ La chica que soñaba con una cerilla y un bidón de gasolina
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
Ultra
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 FA: txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Intifalla
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★ El Bidonero
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Barrel of a gun
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Celtis australis
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Teruel existe
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 | 6b | 15m | |||||
Meteoblue
| ||||||||
| 8 |
★ Cerasium
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Mi pequeña Loli
Set by Ramon Cadalas, Jose Muñoz & Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 FFA: Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 FA: Ramón Cadalas & Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 | 6c+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
Viaje a Cálcena
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 16 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
Intrusos
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 16 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Take it easy
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Karacter / R2
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ keep calm / R3
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 FFA: Txenxo Lli, 2013 FA: 2013 | 7b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 15 |
★★★ Fundamental / R4
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome FA: Txenxo Lli, 2013 Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 7a | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 16 |
Fundacorporal / R5
Set by Txenxo Lli | 7b+ | ||||||
| 17 |
★★★ Drakaris
Set by Toni Montiel & Franky Loriguilla, Jun 2019 | 7a+ | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Ardilla
| 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 19 |
★ Relámpago
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 20 |
★ Trueno
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
Callejón - Felsengasse
| ||||||||
| 21 |
★★ Chupa chupa que yo te veo
Set by Juan Tocayo, 1 May 2015 FA: Juan Tocayo, 1 May 2015 | 7a+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ Regalo de boda
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 | 7b | 24m | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Curva peligrosa
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 26m, 11 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Curva peligrosa (Salida directa)
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 | 7b | 24m | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Don Camillo / ATR 1
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & sergio, 29 Nov 2015 | 7b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 26 |
Peppone / ATR 2
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set by Txenxo Lli & sergio, Dec 2015 | 7b | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 27 |
★ El cuarentón apretón!!
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by sergio, 31 May 2014 | 7b | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 28 | ★★ Lereles | 7c | 22m, 13 | |||||
| 29 | ★★ Super Mario | 6b | 19m, 9 | |||||
| 30 | ★★ Super Luigi | 7a | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Räuber Fotzenglotz
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 32 |
★★ Top Tool
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
Bergfreundeturm==[en]== The Bergfreundeturm (pinnacle of the mountain dudes) is a spire with a height of 20m. The routes offer different techniques and styles from crag over face and corners to arêtes. The shady backside with most of the routes is a very good place for climbing on hot summer days. A summit book is waiting on the top for your comments and will keep you up to date with new routes. Despite the shade on the north side you will find some good rest places at the ground for your family. The nice routes on the valley side of the tower getting sun all the day and are therefore only for the cold days. ==[de]== Der Bergfreundeturm ist ein etwa 20m hoher freistehender Gipfel. Die schattige Rückseite mit den meisten Wegen ist ein guter Ort um an heissen Sommertagen zu klettern. Auch wenn Wandkletterei vorherrscht, findet man schöne Verschneidungs-, Riss- und Kantenprobleme. Ein Gipfelbuch nach sächsischem Vorbild wartet oben auf Kommentare und informiert über die neusten Routenupdates. Abgesehen vom Schatten gibt es im Einstiegsbereich auf der Nordseite gute Lagerplätze für die ganze Familie. Die schönen Routen auf der Talseite sind sehr sonnenexponiert und nur was für die kalten Tage. ==[es]== El Bergfreundeturm es una torre de aprox. 20m de altura. Las vias tienen buena calidad de roca y unas lineas estupendas con mucha variedad de estilo. La sombra en el barranco entre la torre y el 'Callejón' es perfecto para escalar cuando hace mucho calor. Un registro de cumbre espera a tus commentarios y da informacion sobre nuevas rutas. | ||||||||
North-EastNordosten - Noreste | ||||||||
| 33 |
★ Alquequenje
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Chris Lin & Mirko, 26 Jun 2014 FA: Chris Lin, 26 Jun 2014 | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Neujahrsverschneidung
==[en]== To the left in the north face short ascend to bulge and into the corner on the right. Enjoy nice moves to the anchors in the middle or continue and scramble up to the higher anchors (expo.). ==[de]== Links in der Nordwand kurze Wand zu Überhang und nach rechts in Verschneidung. In schöner Kletterei zum Stand in der Wand oder anschliessend ungesichert aber leicht bis zum Ausstieg. ==[es]== En la izquierda del callejón pared y desplome corto al diedro. Disfruta los movimientos bonitos hasta la reu del medio. Sigue sin equipamiento pero fácil hasta la cumbre. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 35 |
Alameda
==[en]== This short and powerful route is the hardest at the moment in this sector. ==[de]== Diese kurze und bouldrige Route ist momentan die schwerste am Turm. ==[es]== Esta vía corta y explosiva es la mas difícil del sector hasta ahora. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 7c | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Y lo bien
==[en]== A nice technically traverse leads to diversified face climbing ==[de]== Ein schöner technischer Quergang führt zu abwechslungsreicher Wandkletterei. ==[es]== Travesía técnica al principio. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 26 May 2013 FA: sergio, 26 May 2013 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Avenida
==[en]== First a puzzling start and then that kind of nice face climbing on pockets that is typical for this sector. Go left at the top to the same anchors of 'Y lo bien'. ==[de]== Ein kniffliger Start und anschließend die für diese Wand typische schöne Lochkletterei. Oben nach links zum gemeinsamen Umlenker mit 'Y lo bien' ==[es]== Salida compleja con un resto de vía con buenos agarres como es típico en este sector. Ir a la izquierda al final hacia la reunión de 'Y lo bien'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6c | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 38 |
★ Rambla
==[en]== Tricky at the bottom enjoyable at the rest. ==[de]== Unten Trickreich oben schön. ==[es]== Compleja al principio pero el resto divertida. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 39 |
★★ Vale la peña
==[en]== Face climbing with lots of pockets straight up - passing the crag of 'Bergfreundeweg'. Nice and not steep at all. ==[de]== Leicht liegende Wand in gutem löchrigem Kalk am Riss vom 'Bergfreundeweg' direkt vorbei zum Umlenker am Gipfelbuch. ==[es]== Esclada vertical con mucho agarre, cruzando la fisura de 'Bergfreundeweg'. Salir de la reunion para acceder a la cumbre y al registro. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Calle
==[en]== Continuous on nice pockets to the top. ==[de]== Kontinuierlich in schöner Lochkletterei zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Vía con buenos agarres hasta la reunión. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6a | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 41 |
★★ Bergfreundeweg
==[en]== The traditional route of the first climbers follows the obvious left keeping crack in the north face. Bring some medium friends and slings and use one bolt of 'Vale la peña' but follow the crack until the end before clipping the same anchors to the right. ==[de]== Klassisch abgesicherte Route die einige mittlere Friends und/oder einige Schlingen erfordert. Einstieg über ein paar Blücke und dann dem grossen linksansteigendem Riss folgen. Ein Bolt von 'Vale la peña' kann mitbenutzt werden - anschliessend erst links dann rechts zum gemeinsamen Standplatz. ==[es]== Via classica que requiere unos friends medianos y eslingas. Sale via unos bloques y sigue la grieta grande. SorComparte un bolt con 'Vale la peña'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 22m, 1 | |||||
| 42 |
★ Paseo de Canossa
==[en]== Not steep but a thin crux near the top. Same anchors as 'Larga Marcha'. ==[de]== Leicht liegende und löchrige Wand mit kompakter und trittarmer Einzelstelle im oberen Teil. Gemeinsamer Stand mit 'Larga Marcha'. ==[es]== Escalada tumbada con una crux fina y técnica para llegar a la reu (la misma como 'Larga Marcha'). ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 43 |
★ Larga Marcha
==[en]== Not steep at all and nice technical crux near the top. Same anchors as 'Paseo de Canossa'. ==[de]== Leicht liegende Wand in gutem löchrigem Kalk und technischer Crux am Ausstieg. Gemeinsamer Stand mit 'Paseo de Canossa'. ==[es]== Escalada tumbada con una crux técnica para llegar a la reu (la misma como 'Paseo de Canossa'). ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 44 |
★ Via Pecuária
==[en]== Easygoing route on the right end of the north face. On good holds to the anchors half way up. ==[de]== Leichte Wandkletterei ganz rechts in der Nordwand zum Stand in halber Höhe. ==[es]== Escalada fácil en la derecha del callejón hasta la reu del medio. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 45 |
★ Camino del Cid
==[en]== On the left side of the west face passing good holds to the ledge in the north face (anchors of 'Via Pecuária' ). Rappel down for 6a or continue to a reachy crux near the top. ==[de]== Links in der Westwand an schönen Löchern zum Absatz in der Nordwand (Stand von 'Via Pecuária' ). Wand weiter und mit Längenzug am Ende zum Umlenker. Nur bis Zwischenstand 6a. ==[es]== En la izquierda de la pared occidental, sube con buenos agujeros al reposo en el canto (reu de 'Via Pecuária' ). Rapela allí (6a) o sube a la reu con una crux de distancias. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
South-WestSüdwesten - suroeste | ||||||||
| 46 | ★★ Lucifer | 7a | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 47 | ★★★ Luciernaga | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 48 |
★★ El perro anda luz
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 49 |
★★ Luz de Madiba
==[en]== Continuous difficulties in the middle - demanding but nice ==[de]== Kontinuierliche Schwierigkeiten im mittleren Teim - fordernd aber schön. ==[es]== Sección compleja a mitad de vía. Exigente pero bonita. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 50 |
★★ Luz del otoño
==[en]== The first route in the south-western face of the tower follows some nice cracks and dihedrals to the top. ==[de]== Die erste Route in der SW-Seite des BFTs folgt einigen schönen Rissen und Verschneidungen zG. ==[es]== La primera vía en la cara suroeste de la torre sigue unas fisuras y diedros bonitos al cumbre. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 51 |
Podemos
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
EastOsten - Este | ||||||||
| 52 |
★★ Kurt-Albert-Gedächtnisweg
==[en]== Follow the left arête with good pockets to the anchors of 'Punto rojo'. In remembrance of Kurt Albert †. ==[de]== Entlang der linken Kante in schöner Lochkletterei zum Umlenker von 'Punto rojo'. In Erinnerung an Kurt Albert † . ==[es]== Sigue el canto derecho con buen agarre a la reu de 'Punto rojo'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 53 |
★★ Punto rojo
==[en]== The right route on the east face is highly recommended and follows good pockets in the face to the right arête. Together with the 'Kurt-Albert-Gedächtnisweg' in memorial to the climbing pioneer Kurt Albert. ==[de]== Rechter Weg in der Ostwand. Zusammen mit dem 'Kurt-Albert-Gedächtnisweg' dem Kletterpionier Kurt Albert gewidmet. Lohnender Aufstieg an Löchern und Kante. ==[es]== Vía muy bonita en la derecha de la pared oriental. Recorre buen agarres y acaba con un canto expueso. Junto con 'Kurt-Albert-Gedächtnisweg' esta dedicada al pionero de escalada Kurt Albert. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 17m, 7 | |||||
Entretorres==[en]== Sector of face climbing between 'Horzelbub' and 'Bergfreundeturm'. Mostly vertical climb with harder pasages and nice structures ==[de]== Schöner Wandklettersektor zwischen 'Horzelbub' und 'Bergfreundeturm'. Senkrechte technische klettereien gespickt mit einigen kräftigen Passagen und netten Strukturen. ==[es]== Sector de escalada de pared entre 'Horzelbub' y 'Bergfreundeturm'. Predomina la escalada vertical con pasos duros y estructuras diversas. | ||||||||
| 54 |
★★ Tritón
==[en]== ==[de]== ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 26m, 11 | |||||
| 55 |
★★ Capicúa
==[en]== Sustained climb with an interesting finish. Good holds will show up where you need them most. ==[de]== Anhaltend mit einem Finish der etwas Übersicht erfordert. Gute Griffe tauchen immer dort auf wo man sie am nötigsten braucht. ==[es]== Escalada persitente con una salida a la reunion interesante. Buen agarre aparece donde mas lo necesitas. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 56 |
★★ Fondue
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
| 57 |
★ Moite Moite
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 58 |
★ Vacherin fribourgeois
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 59 |
★★ Gruyère
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 60 |
★★ Vosotras parís, vosotras decidís.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 61 |
★ Judit
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 21 Dec 2013 FA: Carlos Tudela, 21 Dec 2013 | 6a | 15m, 9 | |||||
Horzelbub
| ||||||||
| 62 |
★★ AW
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 18m, 1 | |||||
| 63 |
★★ Deß-esperado
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 64 |
★★ Talweg
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 65 |
★ Sandwich listo
Set by Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, May 2014 | 4c | 18m, 6 | |||||
Esquina suiza
| ||||||||
| 66 |
★ Tellplatte
==[en]== Technical faceclimbing in compact rock with thin and insecure crux after the second bolt. ==[de]== Technische Wandkletterei in kompaktem Fels mit Aufrichterproblem nach dem zweiten Bolt. ==[es]== Escalada técnica en roca compacta con una crux fina y de balanza después de la segunda chapa. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 67 |
★★ El Cantón
==[en]== Vertical arête to the anchors of 'Tellplatte'. ==[de]== Steile Kante zum Umlenker der 'Tellplatte'. ==[es]== Canto vertical a la reu de 'Tellplatte'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 13m, 5 | |||||
| 68 | ★★ Sabina | 6a+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
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1.2.2. Don Quijote 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129504, -0.673262
description
==[en]==
Large sector in the center of the Casucho riff. To get there go to the left from 'Steinschleuder' or to the right from 'Horzelbub' on small trails. Steep climbing on very abrasive rock up to 25m on some beautiful natural lines are the positive facts the extreme sun trap after noon is the opposite point.
==[de]==
Grosser Sektor in der Mitte vom Casucho. Zustieg entweder rechtshaltend vom 'Horzelbub' oder linkshaltend von der 'Steinschleuder' am Wandfuss entlang. Steiler und zum Teil sehr rauer Fels mit einer Höhe von bis zu 25m. Einige Wege folgen schönen Linien entlang von Rissen und Verschneidungen. Die Sonne erreicht den Sektor gegen Mittag.
==[es]==
Sector grande en el centro del Casucho. Acceder al pie de la pared desde 'Horzelbub' o 'Steinschleuder'. Roca buena y muy vertical con una altura hasta 25m. Unas vías hermosas siguen fisuras y diedros. El sol entra aproximadamente al mediodía.
history
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Don Quijote | ||||||||
| 1 |
★★ Susurrando a Sebastián
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015 FA: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015 | 6a+ | 10 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Rosinante
==[en]== The corner to the left of the small pillar leads to a steep headwall with pockets. Go right at the end to the anchors of 'Rucio' . ==[de]== An der linken Rissverschneidung vom Pfeiler zur löchrigen und steilen Headwall dann nach rechts und wie 'Rucio' aussteigen. ==[es]== Pasar el diedro izquierdo del espolón (fisura) a la pared vertical. Se reúne con 'Rucio' al llegar a la penúltima chapa. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 19m, 10 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Rucio
==[en]== Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets. Same anchors as 'Rosinante'. ==[de]== Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern zum gemeinsamen Umlenker mit 'Rosinante'. ==[es]== Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. La misma reu como 'Rosinante'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 19m, 9 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Sancho Panza
==[en]== The small pillar from the ground leads to a crack with good pockets and crimps. Before you climb to the right chain a awkward move up to the ledge is waiting on you. ==[de]== Über kleinen Pfeiler hin zur markanten Rissverschneidung an schönen Löchern und Leisten hin zum abdrängenden Überhang weiter nach rechts zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Un pequeño espolón lleva a una fisura con buenos agujeros y listones. Poco antes de girar a la derecha te espera un movimiento algo raro. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Luchar contra Molinos de Viento
==[en]== Reachy and sustained pocket pulling with poor footholds are the first crux of this nice climb. At the top it also takes the crux of 'Don Quijote' and the same anchors. ==[de]== Ausdauernde Lochkletterei mit Crux im Überhang führt zu steiler Tropflochplatte. Am Ende noch über die Crux vom 'Don Quijote' hin zum gemeinsamen Umlenker. ==[es]== Escalada persistente y desplomada con malos puntapiés (primera crux) y pared vertical a la crux de 'Don Quijote' y a la misma reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 24m, 13 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Don Quijote
==[en]== An enjoyably and long dihedral with a thin finish. ==[de]== Schöne und lange Verschneidungskletterei hin zur kleingriffigeren Crux kurz vor dem Umlenker - sehr zu Empfehlen. ==[es]== Escalda larga de diedro con una crux fina al llegar a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Caballero de los Leones
==[en]== Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets with a slightly sustained finish. ==[de]== Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern mit Ausdauerfinale. ==[es]== Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 8 | Hidalgo | |||||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
★ Dulcinea
==[en]== Steep face climbing with an interesting finish. Stop at the anchors of 'Aldonza' for a 6a. ==[de]== Steile Wandkletterei mit schönem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Für eine 6a am Umlenker von 'Aldonza' abseilen. ==[es]== Escalada vertical con una salida a la reunion interesante. 6a hasta la reunión de 'Aldonza'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Grisóstomo
==[en]== Interisting and varied route that shares the last bolt and the anchor with 'Aldonza'. ==[de]== Interessante und abwechsulgsreiche Route, teilt sich den letzten Bolt und den Umlenker mit 'Aldonza'. ==[es]== Vía interesante y variada, comprate el ultimo bolt y la reu con 'Aldonza'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Aldonza
==[en]== This enjoyable moderate climbing follows a small pillar to the lower anchors. ==[de]== Folgt einer Rampe in genüsslicher Kletterei zum Stand in Wandmitte. ==[es]== Escalada placentera siguiendo una rampa a la reunion en el medio de la pared. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ El Toboso
==[en]== Nice pocket pulling. The crux is a bit more sustained as you might expect. ==[de]== Schönes Lochgehangel mit anhaltender Crux. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 13 |
★ La fres-cura
==[en]== Technical start and finish with huge jugs in between to pull trough. ==[de]== Technischer Ein- und Ausstieg und dazwischen ein paar riesen Henkel zum durchziehen. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 22m, 12 | |||||
| 14 |
★ Brocabruno
==[en]== The awkward start might give you a good pump. ==[de]== Wer am Start schon viel falsch macht wird sich oben über die dicken Arme beschweren. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Coro Alto | ||||||||
| 15 |
★ Telendos
==[en]== The route on the left end of 'Coro Alto' offers a good climb on a dihedral, face and a bulge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts. ==[de]== Linker Weg im 'Coro Alto' Sektor durch schöne Verschneidung, Wand und einen Bauch. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5 | 14m, 7 | |||||
| 16 |
Masouri
==[de]== Kniffliger Einstieg und dann Verschneidung. Wer den Baum am Einstieg mitbenutzt, macht es sich leichter. Selber Umlenker wie 'Telendos'. ==[en]== An awkward start is followed by a dihedral. Who uses the tree avoids the crux. Same anchors as 'Telendos'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Cincuentenario
==[en]== Dihedral, a overhang and sustained pocketing - well worth it. ==[de]== Verschneidung, Überhang und Ausdauerhenkel - sehr lohnend. ==[es]== Diedro, un desplome y agujeros en constancia - vale la pena. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Rafa Sorribes, 12 Oct 2014 | 6b | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 18 | ★ Los 3 jinetes del apocalipsis | 6b+ | 16m, 9 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ El 8º mandamiento
==[de]== In schöner und abwechslungsreicher Kletterei bis zum letzten Bolt. Dann etwas exponiert mit Rechtsschleife zur Crux kurz vorm Umlenker: Guten Flug! ==[en]== Nice and diversified climbing until the last bolt. Now comes the expo and right bending crux: Have a nice flight! ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Enric Muñoz, 11 Oct 2014 | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
1.2.3. Esquinas 49 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.128411, -0.671460
  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Steinschleuder==[en]== Nice pillar up to 20m height with routes worth doing. The rock offers various sharp pockets. ==[de]== Schöner Pfeiler mit einer Höhe von 20m der eine Reihe sehr lohnender Wege im rauen und löchrigen Fels bietet. ==[es]== Bonito pilar de 20m de altura con unas vias en roca agujereada que valen la pena. | ||||||||
| 1 |
★ ERE que ERE
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Fosilizado
Set by Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 26 Mar 2017 FFA: Carlos Tudela, 26 Mar 2017 | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Sombra del Icaro
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Catapulta
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Las chicas son guerreras
Set by Ramon & Gatxa, Apr 2016 | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Cíclope
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Haubitze
 Jakob Hoppstock on ★★ Haubitze 6c ==[en]== Technique compensates the steep start but nevertheless the endurance rest needs some power left and a good overview - worth doing. ==[de]== Steiler Einstieg der mit etwas technik überwunden wird gefolgt von Ausdauer und einem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Schöne Felsstrukturen - bietet etwas länger Schatten als die rechten Nachbarn. ==[es]== Salida exigente seguido por escalda persistente y un final que demanda vista. Ofrece un poco mas sombra que sus vecinos por la derecha. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Honda
==[en]== A steep bulk as start followed by a nice arête to the anchors of 'Haubitze'. ==[de]== Steiler Bauch am Einstieg gefolgt von schöner Kante zum Umlenker von 'Haubitze'. ==[es]== Una salida ventruda seguido por un espolon bonito a la de 'Haubitze'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Trebuchet
==[en]== Same first 3 bolts as 'Tirachinas' and then go left on nice pockets and to a moderate finish. ==[de]== Nach gemeinsamen Einstieg mit 'Tirachinas' folgt eine kurze Querung an schönen Löchern vom Absatz zum Riss und dann ein genussvoller Ausstieg. ==[es]== Las mismas primeras chapas de 'Tirachinas', luego hacia la izquierda a la fisura y una salida a la reunion moderata. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★ Tirachinas
==[en]== Same first 3 bolts as 'Trebuchet' and then straight up the bulk and at the top stay at the left bended edge to same anchors. ==[de]== Vom Absatz gerade weiter in löchrigen kurzen Überhang am Ende im Linksbogen der Kante entlang zum Umlenker von 'Trebuchet'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Medusa
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 15 Feb 2014 | 5c | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Sísifo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Tombatossals
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 20m, 7 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Esquina alemana==[en]== Sunny sector with a wide range of routes in nice rock with lots of pockets. You will find some good rest places at the ground for your family. To the far left there is a nice steep slab with more good holds than expected - the sun comes here at the afternoon. ==[de]== Sonniger Sektor mit einem breiten Spektrum an Routen in schönem mit Löchern durchsetztem Fels. Im Einstiegsbereich gibt es einige gute Lagerplätze für die ganze Familie. Linkerhand gibt es eine schöne Steilplatte, die mehr Griffe bietet als erwartet - diese ist erst ab dem Nachmittag sonnig. ==[es]== Sector soleado con una buena variedad de vías en roca con muchos agujeros. Hay sitios buenos al pie de la pared para toda la familia. En su extrema izquierda hay una placa bonita y muy vertical que ofrece mas agarre que la primera vista hace pensar. El sol llega allí por la tarde. | ||||||||
| 14 |
★★ Jakob László
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Anika
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Negro
==[en]== Easy corner. ==[de]== Leichte Verschneidung ==[es]== Diedro fácil y corto. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Rojo
==[en]== Similar to 'Dorado' but easier. ==[de]== Wie 'Dorado', nur leichter. ==[es]== Similar a 'Dorado' pero mas fácil. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ Dorado
==[en]== Nice vertical slab with technical moves. ==[de]== Schöne Steilplatte mit technischen Zügen ==[es]== Placa técnica y vertical. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 19 |
★★★ Eckstein
==[en]== Go right to the edge from the first bolt of 'Dorado'. Follow the edge in some powerful and technical moves to the same anchors. Unfortunately much to short. ==[de]== Vom ersten Bolt vom 'Dorado' rechts haltend zur Kante. In schönen athletischen und technischen Zügen die überhängende Kante empor und zum selben Umlenker. Leider viel zu kurz. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 20 |
★ Riadas
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 15m, 6 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Colores del Otoño
==[en]== Similar to 'Vientos del Otoño' but easier. ==[de]== Wie 'Vientos del Otoño', nur leichter. ==[es]== Similar a 'Vientos del Otoño' pero mas fácil. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ Vientos del Otoño
==[en]== Steep face to ledge and together with 'Colores del Otoño' to the anchors. ==[de]== Steile Wand zu Absatz und zusammen mit 'Colores del Otoño' zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Escalada en pared vertical y junto con 'Colores del Otoño' a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Mito y logos
Escalada con buen agarre, lijeramente desplomada y un poco picante para el final. | 6b | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 24 |
★★★ Tres cabras
 Anika on ★★★ Tres cabras 6b+ ==[en]== Similar to 'Via de ampolletes' but a bit more sustained. Pocket pulling at its best - highly recommended. ==[de]== Wie der 'Via de ampolletes' nur noch etwas anhaltender. Lochgehangel vom Feinsten - sehr lohnenswert. ==[es]== Similar a 'Via de ampolletes' pero mas persistente y desplomada. Muy recomendable. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 25 |
★★★ Via de ampolletes
==[en]== On good holds but pumpy to the anchors. ==[de]== Der Name ist Programm - an griffigen Sanduhren etwas pumpig zur Kette. ==[es]== Desplomado y persistente a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 26 |
★ Friedrichshain
==[en]== Same start as 'Via de ampolletes' than follow the bended right crag to the same anchors. Nice and exposed climbing with the crux at the end. ==[de]== Gleicher Einstieg und wie 'Via de ampolletes' und dann den gebogenen Riss rechts folgend in schöner und luftiger Kletterei zum Umlenker von 'Via de ampolletes'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 27 |
★★ La curva del murcielago / Fledermausweg
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 28 |
★★★ La piñata / R7
==[en]== Sustained face climbing. Do not fall before the second bolt. At the end big jugs show up where you need them most. ==[de]== Ausdauernde Wandkletterei. Vor dem 2 Bolt besser nicht stürzen! Am Ende - dort wo man sie braucht - fantastische Henkel an Sanduhren. ==[es]== Escalada persistente, mejor no caer antes llegar a la segunda chapa. Al llegar a la reu hay agarres fantásticos. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ Kanzlereck
==[en]== Powerful and awkward start leads to moderate edge climbing - same anchors as 'R7'. ==[de]== Bouldriger Einstieg gefolgt von leichterer und schöner Kantenkletterei - selber Umlenker wie 'R7'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 11 Jan 2013 FA: Jakob Hoppstock, 15 Jan 2013 | 7a | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 30 |
★ Kamin
==[en]== Uncomfortable chimney and arête. ==[de]== Abdrängender Kamin und Kante der sich gut Ausspreizen lässt. ==[es]== Chimenea y canto, algo incómodo. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Esquina española==[en]== Sector at the east end of the cliff with short and easy pitches with lots of pockets. The sun enters in the afternoon. ==[de]== Östlichster Sektor mit kürzeren einfachen Routen in sehr löchrigem Fels. Durch die gute Auswahl an einfachen Routen und den guten Lagerplätzen unter den Routen 'Catorce costillas' bis 'Esperando a Nuria' sehr für Familien geeignet. Vormittags im Schatten. ==[es]== Sector al lado este de la pared con vías cortas y fáciles con mucho agarre. Sombra hasta el mediodía. | ||||||||
| 31 | ★ Artemisia G | 6b+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 32 | ★★ Las 13 rosas | 6b+ | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Rosa Real
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Eli Vergès
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 35 |
★ Catorce costillas
==[en]== Nice but short some strength comes in handy same anchors as 'Doce Uvas' ==[de]== Kurz aber schön etwas Kraft ist Hilfreich - gleicher Umlenker wie 'Doce Uvas'. ==[es]== Bonito pero cortito - algo de fuerza resulta útil y a la misma reu de 'Doce Uvas'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 36 |
★ Doce Uvas
==[en]== Nice but short some technique comes in handy ==[de]== Kurz aber schön etwas Technik ist Hilfreich ==[es]== Bonito pero cortito - algo de tecnica resulta útil ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Los Ramones
==[en]== Face and corner to a the anchors. ==[de]== Abwechslungsreich durch Wand und Verschneidung zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Pared y diedro a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 5c | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 38 |
★ Esperando a Nuria
==[en]== Diversified face climbing to the anchors of 'R5' ==[de]== Abwechslungsreiche Wandkletterei zum Umlenker von 'R5' ==[es]== Escalada variada a la reu de 'R5'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 39 | ★★ Esperando a Abet | 6b+ | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 40 |
★ Relatos salvajes
==[en]== Short and strenuous overhang with a thin finish. ==[de]== Kurzer kräftiger Überhang mit dünnem finish. ==[es]== Desplome corto y explosivo con un fin fino. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 41 |
★ ... y vienen dos!
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nacho Aznar, 8 Sep 2013 FA: Calodedio, 8 Sep 2013 | 6a+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
| 42 |
★ Parabolts perdidos
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 43 |
★★ La Artiga
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 5c | 12m, 6 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 44 |
★ Los Ibañez
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 5b | 11m, 7 | |||||
| 45 |
★ Murciélago
==[en]== Similar to 'Noro virus' but without the big holds. ==[de]== Ähnlich wie 'Noro virus' nur fehlen oft die grossen Griffe. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 46 |
★ Noro virus
==[en]== A moderate route that looks a bit easier than it is - but nevertheless you will find many big holds. ==[de]== Fühlt sich etwas Steiler an als es aussieht aber hat immer grosse Griffe. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 47 |
★ Los Lucas
==[en]== One of the easiest routes an a slap with many features - good for beginners ==[de]== Leichtester Weg auf geneigter und strukturierter Wand - gut für Anfänger. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 5a | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 48 |
★ Los Giles
==[en]== The route on the eastern end of Casucho offers a good climb on a face, dihedral and edge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts. ==[de]== Östlichster Weg im Casucho durch schöne Wand, Veschneidung und Kante. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by unknown, 2005 | 6a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 49 |
★ Pepe, no te quiero
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 12m, 6 | |||||
1.3. Palomarejas 143 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.133022, -0.674688
 |
1.3.1. El Lado Umbrio 42 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.132559, -0.673411
description
==[en]==
In the valley of the Palomarejas river you will find various sectors in compact limestone in a quiet and nice scenery. Most of the routes are sheltered from the sun due to trees or the orientation and therefore it is a very good area for the hot season.
==[de]==
Im Tal des Rio Palomarejas befinden sich einige schöne Wände in sehr kompaktem Fels. Die Wände sind grösstenteils schattig bis halbschattig, was sie insbesondere in der warmen Jahreszeit attraktiv macht.
==[es]==
En el barranquo del Rio Palomarejas se encuentra unas paredes bonitas en roca bastante compacta. Las paredes estan mayoriamente en la sombra o penumbra, que las hace especialmente atractivos en verano.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Soñar con ...==[en]== A little bit upstream of 'El cielo nocturno' this shady crag makes you enjoy some nice classic lines, dihedrals and cracks in absolute silence. It makes you dream of ... ==[de]== Weiter flussaufwärts folgt nach dem 'El cielo nocturno' dieser kleine schattige Sektor mit seinen schönen klassischen Linien. Verschneidungen, Risse und auch einen luftiger Übertritt kann man dort in völliger Ruhe geniessen. So kommt es, dass man sich schnell mal an einem anderen Ort wähnt. ==[es]== Un poco mas alla del 'El cielo nocturno' este sector sombroso te hace disfrutar unas lineas clasicas, fisuras y diedros en un entorno muy silencioso. Te hace soñar con ... | ||||||||
| 1 | ★ Cara | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Snake
==[en]== The blanc section shortly after the start can be solved surprisingly easy with some monos. If you know where to find and reach them. Short but worth doing. Same anchors as Dike. ==[de]== Die plattige Stelle kurz nach dem Einstieg kann erstaunlich einfach mit Hilfe einiger Fingerlöcher bewältigt werden. Wenn man weiss wo sie sind und man die nötige Länge hat. Kurz aber Lohnenswert. Gemeinsamer Stand mit Dike. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Dike
==[en]== Less pockets than usual in this sector but some side pulls to deal with. Diversified climbing on that short route. ==[de]== Untypisch wenige Löcher dafür einige Leisten und Kanten zum pressen. Sehr abwechslungsreich auf die wenigen Meter. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Salvados del trigo
Set by Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, May 2016 | 5c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Frankenjura
==[en]== A crimpy start leads to a nice dihedral followed by a headwall with smooth pockets almost like the pocket puling in Frankenjura. ==[de]== Ein kleingriffiger Start führt in eine schöne Verschneidung und einer Headwall mit ergonomischen Löscheren fast wie im Frankenjura . ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 8 | |||||
| 6 |
El fofo
==[en]== ==[de]== ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Pel Anchon, 9 Jul 2016 | 7b+ | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Langtang
==[en]== ==[de]== Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg mit einer Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Calodedio, Jun 2016 FA: Pel Anchon, Jun 2016 | 6c | 18m, 10 | |||||
| 8 |
Langtang directa
==[en]== ==[de]== Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg ohne die Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Calodedio, Jun 2016 | 6c+ | 17m, 9 | |||||
/84/c6/84c6296f7a7ca5fd87f12624d0267455e3be889f)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | Mermelada de cerezas | 7b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ ... el diedro Fehrmann
==[en]== A prototype corner: nice but never really easy. ==[de]== Eine prototypische Verschneidung - schön aber doch nie ganz einfach. ==[es]== Un diedro prototipico, bonito pero nunca de verdad facill. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ ... el Elbsandstein
==[en]== Start on top of the boulder with a committing step into the right traverse. Sustained on good holds to the top of the crag - various and recommended. ==[de]== Start vom Block mit Übertritt und dann ein kurzer Rechtsquergang. Anschliesend henklig aber pumpig den Riss bis zum Umlenker - Abwechslungsreich und empfehlenswert. ==[es]== Comienza encima el bloque con un paso expuesto, seguido por una travesia hacia la derecha y una fisura de continuidad. Variada y muy recomendada. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Mirko & Johannes Petzold, 2 Oct 2013 FA: Johannes Petzold, Mirko & Nicky, 2 Oct 2013 | 6a+ | 14m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Babilonia
Set by Mirko & Calodedio, 5 May 2015 FFA: Pel Anchon, 10 May 2015 | 7a | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 13 | ★★ Acción invertida | 7a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Sakys, big problem
Placa vertical y técnica sobre pequeñas regletas. Set by Calodedio, Pel Anchon & Alejandra Risquez, 18 Oct 2015 | 7b | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Nabuco
Set by Calodedio & Alejandra Risquez, 2 May 2015 | 6c+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Oneironaut
Set by Mirko & Tobi, 27 Mar 2016 FFA: Tobi, 27 Mar 2016 | 7a | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ ... el lado oscuro
==[en]== The nice and technical start is followed by a sustained section until the anchors. ==[de]== Nach einem schönen technischen Start folgen einige anhaltende Züge bis zum Umlenker. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 12m, 6 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
El cielo nocturno==[en]== Nice sector following the 'Olimpo'. Perfect lime in a very compact wall, though it is just a bit longer than 10m its route are well worth the visit. The route setters were so excited about the rock quality that the route density is above the Alto Mijares average, so keep close to the routes bolts to stick to the proposed grading. The sector lies in the shade, the sun hardly only enters in summer afternoons. The base is a bit inclined but offers some green resting areas suitable for families. ==[de]== Schöner Sektor im Anschluss an den 'Olimpo'. Perfekter Lochkalk in einer sehr kompakten Wand deren Wandhöhe zwar nur etwas mehr als 10m beträgt aber die Routen sind fast alle sehr lohnend. Die Erschliesser waren von der Routenqualität so angetan, das hier die Routendichte etwas höher ist als sonst. Für den vorgeschlagenen Schwierigkeitsgrad sollte man daher nahe der eigenen Bolts bleiben. Der Sektor liegt schattig hinter Bäumen und sieht nur im Sommer ab späten Nachmittag etwas Sonne. Der Wandfuss ist zwar etwas abfallend aber entspannt und mit einigen Rasenstellen und somit gut für Familien geeignet. ==[es]== Bonito sector suigendo el 'Olimpo'. Perfecta caliza en una pared muy compacta, aunque no supera mucho los 10m sus vias valen la visita. Los equipadores eran tan encantados de la roca que la densidad de las vias es arriba de lo habitual de la zona, asi que para quedar con el grado propuesto habra que escalar cerca de las parabolts de las vias. El sol apenas entra en verano por la tarde. Esto y sus terrasas verdes en la base le hacen un sector idóneo para familias en verano. | ||||||||
| 18 |
★ Toser y ganar
==[en]== A short route to the left - a bit sandy. ==[de]== Kurze Lochkletterei am linken Ende des Sektors in teilweise etwas sandigem Fels. ==[es]== Via corta al loado izquierdo del sector - con un poco de patina. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 19 |
Luna creciente
==[en]== The first route in sector - good warm up. ==[de]== Erster Weg am Sektor - gut zum warm machen. ==[es]== La primera vía del sector y la mas facil - buena para calientarse. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Lo inesperado
==[en]== Nice pocket pulling with the crux in the middle. ==[de]== Schöne Lochkletterei mit kniffliger Stelle in Wandmitte. ==[es]== Pared agujereada con la crux por la mitad de la vía. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ El reto
==[en]== Rightwards in nice climbing to a puzzling final. ==[de]== Rechtsansteigend in schöner Kletterei bis zum spannenden Finale: gewusst wie ... ==[es]== Diagonál hacia la derecha a un final bonito y tenso. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 11m, 6 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ El retro
==[en]== Sustained and various: stretchy pockets, technically traverse and a dyno finish. ==[de]== Anhaltend knifflig aber abwechslungsreich: mit weiten Zügen von Loch zu Loch den 'El reto' kreuzen. Technischer linksquergang zum finalen Dynamo. ==[es]== Continuidad y variación: pasos de distancia, traversía tecnica y un dinamo final. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 11m, 7 | |||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Appetizer
==[en]== Nice technical face climbing with increasing difficulties. ==[de]== Schöne technische Tour die Spannend bleibt bis zum Schluss: konstant steigende Schwierigkeiten. ==[es]== Escalada tecnica de pared con el nivel creciendo. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ ¡Ey loco, un pan!
==[en]== With flowing moves to the bulge. Direct above and sustained to the top. ==[de]== Sehr schön bis zum Bauch, dann direkt und fordernd über diesen und drann bleiben bis zu den Henkeln am Umlenker. ==[es]== Fluyendo hasta la barriga, superandola y con continuidad hasta la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 25 |
★ Polca de dedos
==[en]== A nice start leads to the final moves on crimps. Now place you fingers carefully. ==[de]== Ein schöner Start gefolgt von kratzigem Finale wo man die Finger gut sortieren sollte. ==[es]== Empieza bonito y acabo con agarres bien afilados, mejor saber como poner sus dedos. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ Gran Wioming
==[en]== Straight forward in nice face climbing from pocket to pocket. ==[de]== Dankbar und Schön von Loch zu Loch. ==[es]== Agradecido y bonito de agarre a agarre. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 23 Jun 2013 | 6b+ | 11m, 6 | |||||
| 27 |
★ El intermedio
==[en]== Less pockets than usual in this sector. ==[de]== Für den Sektor untypisch wenige Löcher. ==[es]== Menos agujeros que normal en este sector. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 23 Jun 2013 | 6a+ | 11m, 5 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Olimpo==[en]== In this steep sector you will find some technical hard routes up to 25m. The rock is slightly overhanging and very compact and often some blank meters are the crux. Good summer sector with the sun entering only in the very evening. ==[de]== Sommersektor in steilem und sehr kompaktem Gestein mit einer Höhe von 25m der Potenzial für einige schwere und technische Routen bietet. ==[es]== Sector de verano en el cual el sol entra, si acaso lo hace, solo por la tarde tarde. La roca es muy vertical y compacta y ofrece vías duras y técnicas de unos 25m de altura. | ||||||||
| 28 | ★ Itaca | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ El pigmeo
==[en]== Short and quite pumpy for the grade if you choose the obvious solution. ==[de]== Kurz und doch sehr pumpig für den Grad falls man sich für die offensichtliche Lösung entscheidet. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 30 |
★ Odisea
==[en]== The easiest route to climb that nice wall. To gain the most joy from this climb don't got eaten by the chimney at the top but stay at the face. ==[de]== Leichtester Weg der durch diese schöne Wand führt. Um ihn am meisten zu geniessen sollte man sich oben nicht zu sehr in den Riss flüchten sondern ausspreizen und auf der Wand bleiben. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 24m, 10 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ There is res
Set by Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 24 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 32 |
Proyecto
Set by Calodedio | |||||||
| 33 |
★★ Tudela en el Olimpo
==[en]== In memory of Carlos Tudela. ==[de]== In Erinnerung an Carlos Tudela ==[es]== En memoria de Carlos Tudela. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 13m, 7 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Aquiles
==[en]== Nice slightly overhanging face climbing (around 7a) leads to an crimpy bulk. ==[de]== Schöne Wandkletterei in leicht überhängendem Gelände (ca. 7a) führt zu kratziger Einzelstelle am Bauch anschliessend leichter zum Umlenker. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Mirko, Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 14 Jan 2013 | 7c | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 35 |
★★ Espada de Damocles
==[en]== You have to pull hard at the bulk before you can enjoy the technical climbing on the arête. ==[de]== Ein kräftiger Überhang muss zuerst überwunden werden bevor man der Kante in schöner technischer Kletterei zum Zwischenstand folgen kann. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nicky, 16 Sep 2013 | 7b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Espada Larga de Damocles
==[en]== The extension of 'Espada de Damocles' is adding some more meters and difficulties. A boulder section after the lover anchors leads into the easier finish. ==[de]== Die Verlängerung vom 'Espada de Damocles' fügt noch einige Meter hinzu. Direkt nach dem Zwischenstand folgt eine bouldrige Stelle bevor es leichter zum Umlenker geht. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nicky, 16 Sep 2013 | 7b+ | 23m, 8 | |||||
/3f/70/3f705915bfe801f8aa322a6f0480485ae82e3247) /a4/54/a454942606556edde7d9c9b52450fd966aeb5653) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Ira de Neptuno==[en]== In a act of anger Neptune petrified a wave - overhanging, compact and crimpy. Good sector for some hard projects where the sun shows up in the afternoon. ==[de]== Wie eine versteinerte Welle liegt diese Westwand oberhalb des Palomarejas. Der sehr kompakte raue Fels von sehr guter Qualität weist nur wenige Schwachstellen auf die eine Überwindung des Überhanges ermöglichen. ==[es]== Como una ola petrificada esta pared orientada al oeste esta emplazada arriba del barranquo Palomarejas. La roca muy compacta ofrece vías y proyectos técnicas y duras. | ||||||||
| 37 |
★ Pulmón Verde
==[en]== Attempted to be the very first and easiest route in the sector - but 2 very crimpy and finger killing meters are the crux of this project. ==[de]== Gedacht war es als "leichtester Anstieg" doch dann entpuppten sich die 2 Meter vor dem griffigen Bauch als ungeahnt glatt und fingerfressend. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome FA: open project Set by Mirko, Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 14 Jan 2013 | 7c | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 38 |
★★★ Paternoster
==[en]== A very nice face and edge combination. First 7a+ of the crag but nevertheless the easiest route in this sector. ==[de]== Diese sehr schöne Kombination aus Wand- und Kantenkletterei bietet die leichteste Möglichkeit die steinerne Welle zu surfen. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 14 Jan 2013 FA: Jakob Hoppstock, 15 Jan 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 39 |
★★ El crepusculo
==[en]== Homogeneously face climbing on excellent rock. ==[de]== Homogene Wandkletterei in ausgezeichnetem Fels. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 7 Sep 2014 | 6b | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Silencio milenario
==[en]== With the proper dihedral technique you can bypass every difficulties in this nice route. ==[de]== Hier kann man sich fast wirklich jeden Zug leichter machen indem man diese schöne Verschneidung konsequent auspreizt. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 41 |
★★★ La palanca de Oscar
==[en]== Head left after the same start as 'El prepalo de Nando'. Follow the crack to nice face climbing in superb rock. ==[de]== Nach gemeinsamen Start mit 'El prepalo de Nando' hält man sich links: zuerst entlang des Risses dann in schöner Wandkletterei zum Umlenker. Tolle Bewegungen im super Fels. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 42 |
★★★ El prepalo de Nando
==[en]== If you climb that nice flake you might fall into a flow. Same anchors as 'La palanca de Oscar'. ==[de]== Bei dieser schönen und grossen Hangel kommt man schnell in so einem Fluss das man vom löchrigen Ende fast überrascht wird. Selber Umlenker wie 'La palanca de Oscar'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 8 | |||||
1.3.2. El Lado Soleado 101 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.133527, -0.675191
approach
==[es]==
Desde el parking o desde el Refugio bajamos y pasaremos por el antiguo Molino de la Hoz. Más adelante, cruzamos el puente sobre el rio Mijares, y encontramos un cartel indicativo. Podemos ver una flecha que indica "Puente de la Fonseca". Si tomamos este camino, llegaríamos a los sectores: "Talwächter", "Schildlaus", "Wanze" y "Sol de invierno" de la zona de Palomarejas.
1.3.2.1. Esplanada 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.132830, -0.676574
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Camino del hoyo
Set by Alberto Figueroa, 27 Mar 2018 | 7a | ||||||
| 2 |
Secreto de Estado
Set by Nacho Casillas & Rodrigo, 2018 | 7b | 8 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Mal de ojo
Set by Nacho Casillas, Mar 2019 | 7a | 9 | |||||
| 4 |
Espl4
Set by Diego Denia, 2017 | 7a | ||||||
| 5 | Jota Baturra | 7a | ||||||
| 6 |
Superluna
Set 2018 | |||||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Talwächter | ||||||||
| 7 | ★ Sapiens | 6a+ | 16m, 5 | |||||
| 8 | ★ Mono sapiens | 6a | 16m, 5 | |||||
| 9 | ★ Intradós | 6c | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Das Sams | 7a | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
Septimo aniversario
Set by Samu Vidal, Jan 2020 | 7a+ | ||||||
| 12 |
Pepito maximo
FA: Samu Vidal, Jan 2020 | 7a | ||||||
| 13 |
Retiro sexual
FA: Samu Vidal, Jan 2020 | 7a+ | ||||||
| 14 |
Pepito sexual
FA: Samu Vidal, Jan 2020 | 7b | ||||||
| 15 |
★★ AW
==[hash]== FA: André Dachselt & Mirko, 22 Jul 2012 | 3 | 15m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Gleitfrosch
Jump ==[hash]== FA: Mirko & André Dachselt, 15 Jul 2012 | JUMP:2 | 2m | |||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 |
Duchaja
Set by Samu Vidal, Feb 2020 FA: Samu Vidal, Mar 2020 | 7b | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 18 |
★ Siestaja
Set by Samu Vidal, Feb 2020 | 7a+ | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 19 | ★★ R1 | 6b+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 20 | ★ R2 | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 21 | La dolce vita | 6b+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 22 | Por fin un quinto | 5+ | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 23 | R3 | 6b | 8m, 4 | |||||
1.3.2.2. Sol de Invierno 61 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.133485, -0.675165
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wanze==[en]== The 'Wanze' (bug) is a small but nice pinnacle with a good range of easier routes on the back side and some routes in the mid range on the front side. ==[de]== Die Wanze ist ein kleiner aber feiner Gipfel mit vornehmlich leichterer Kletterei in der Schartenseite aber auch einigen anspruchsvollen Wegen auf der Talseite. ==[es]== La 'Wanze' (chinche) es una torre pequeña pero bonita con mayoriamente vias faciles en su lado oeste pero tambien se encuentra unas vias mas exigentes es su lado este. | ||||||||
| 1 |
★ AW
==[en]== Classic route of the first climbers. Scramble up in the middle of the back side. Afterwards equipped with some bolts and an anchor for rappel down. ==[de]== Klassischer Weg der Erstbesteiger. Rechts in der Schartenseite unschwierig Wand zu Kante und zum Gipfel. Nachträglich mit einigen Bolts und Abseilmöglichkeit ausgestattet. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Auf der Lauer
==[en]== Interesting technical face climb. ==[de]== Interessante technische Wandkletterei. ==[es]== Escalada técnica de pared muy interesante. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Auf der Mauer
==[en]== Start with a step over from the block and follow the interesting edge and face to the top. ==[de]== Start vom Block und dann abwechslungsreich die Kante entlang zum Gipfel. ==[es]== Empieza por el pequeño bloque, sigue el canto y la pequeña grieta al cumbre. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Chincheta
==[en]== Athletic route that follows an overhang a ridge to the top. ==[de]== In Talseite Überhang und Kante zG. Athletisch. ==[es]== Vía atletica, desplome y canto hacia arriba. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Chinchate
==[en]== Follow sharp finger pockets to the top. ==[de]== Entlang scharfer Fingerlöcher zG. ==[es]== Siguiendo monodedos hacia arriba. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 6 | |||||
Schildlaus | ||||||||
| 6 | Walk the line | 5c - 6b | 9m, 4 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Afan Desmesurado
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 6b | 13m, 6 | |||||
| 8 |
★ El Invasordo
==[en]== same anchors as 'Escarabajo' ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 6b+ | 13m, 6 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Kontrol de Kalidad
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 6c | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Amen
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 7a | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Lidia del Plano
==[en]== After the 3 bold of 'Amen' turn right and finish to the anchors of 'Churripuntos' ==[de]== Nach dem 3 Bolt von 'Amen' nach rechts bis zum Umlenker von 'Churripuntos' ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Churripuntos
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set by Victor Garrido, Apr 2018 | 6c | 18m, 7 | |||||
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