A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Montaraz Climbing Club (Copyright Montaraz Climbing Club)
Table of contents
- 1.
Alto Mijares / Olba
515 in Crag
-
1.1.
Hoz del Mijares 164 in Crag
-
1.1.1.
El Lado Umbrio 127 in Sector
- 1.1.1.1. Jardin de las musas 8 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2. Central Park / El Habladero 42 in Sector
- 1.1.1.3. Obras Selectas 31 in Sector
- 1.1.1.4. Sombra Perpetua / El Tubo 34 in Sector
- 1.1.1.5. El paraíso 12 in Sector
-
1.1.2.
El Lado Soleado 20 in Sector
- 1.1.2.1. Imperio del Sol 14 in Sector
- 1.1.2.2. Rovaniemi 2 in Sector
- 1.1.2.3. Bastión 4 in Sector
-
1.1.3.
Rocas del Refugio 17 in Sector
- 1.1.3.1. Pirámide del Refugio 4 in Sector
- 1.1.3.2. Bloque del Refugio 3 in Sector
- 1.1.3.3. Bloque del Jardín 6 in Sector
- 1.1.3.4. Mirador 4 in Sector
- 1.1.3.5. Pared de la Familia 0 in Sector
-
1.1.1.
El Lado Umbrio 127 in Sector
-
1.2.
Casucho 145 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Callejón 68 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Don Quijote / Coro Alto 25 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Esquinas 52 in Sector
-
1.3.
Palomarejas 150 in Crag
- 1.3.1. El Lado Umbrio / Ira de Neptuno / Olimpo / El cielo nocturno / Soñar con ... 43 in Sector
-
1.3.2.
El Lado Soleado 107 in Sector
- 1.3.2.1. Esplanada 23 in Sector
- 1.3.2.2. Sol de Invierno 61 in Sector
- 1.3.2.3. El Más Allá 23 in Sector
-
1.4.
Fonseca 26 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Playa 12 in Sector
- 1.4.2. Zarza-Mora 9 in Sector
- 1.4.3. El lado oscuro 5 in Sector
- 1.5. Peñas de Santa Isabel 29 in Crag
-
1.6.
Los Picayos de Albentosa 1 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Ziegenbock 1 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Hoz del Mijares 164 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Alto Mijares 515 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.153009, -0.697746
- La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
- No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
- Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
- No dejes papel higiénico.
- Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
- Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
- Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).
description
High quality limestone and routes in a beautifully landscape with sectors dispersed enough to avoid the crowds and manifold enough to come back again and again.
The 'Alto Mijares' area contains different sectors in good limestone near the Mijares river close to the village of Olba in the southeastern part of the provice Teruel.
Tolle Routen in ausgezeichneten Kalk eingebettet in einer schönen Landschaft mit Sektoren die so verteilt und abwechslungsreich sind, dass man immer wieder was neues Endecken und an einsamen Orten klettern kann.
Das Klettergebiet 'Alto Mijares' in der Provinz Teruel beschreibt die verschiedenen Sektoren am oberen Flusslauf des Mijares nahe des Dorfes Olba.
La zona del 'Alto Mijares' se compone de diversos sectores de caliza alrededor del alto río Mijares cerca del pueblo Olba en el sureste de la provincia de Teruel.
approach
International airports are available in Barcelona, Madrid or closest is Valencia. From there in 1 to 4 hours by car to Olba. Alternatively, you can travel by train to Teruel and from there continue by rental car. Samar Bus (http://samar.es/) offers several daily trips between Valencia and Teruel. From the stop 'Apeadero de Rubielos' in Venta del Aire, it is about 10km to Olba.
Coming from the coast, it is advisable to pass Castelló de la Plana via the beautiful CV-20 at Montanejos. Coming from Valencia or Madrid, leave the motorway (A23) at exit 71 (Venta del Aire).
Internationale Flughäfen gibt es in Barcelona, Madrid oder am nächsten in Valencia. Von dort in jeweils 1 bis 4 Stunden mit dem Auto nach Olba. Alternativ kann mit dem Zug bis Teruel gereist werden und von dort mit dem Mietwagen weiter. Samar Bus (http://samar.es/) bietet mehrmals täglich Reisen zwischen Valencia und Teruel an. Von der Haltestelle 'Apeadero de Rubielos' in Venta del Aire sind es noch etwa 10km bis nach Olba.
Von der Küste kommend empfiehlt es sich bei Castelló de la Plana über die schöne CV-20 an Montanejos vorbei zu fahren. Von Valencia oder Madrid kommend verlässt man die Autobahn (A23) an der Abfahrt 71 (Venta del Aire).
Los aeropuertos internacionales están disponibles en Barcelona, Madrid o el más cercano es Valencia. Desde allí en 1 a 4 horas en coche hasta Olba. Alternativamente, puede viajar en tren hasta Teruel y desde allí continuar en coche de alquiler. Samar Bus (http://samar.es/) ofrece varios viajes diarios entre Valencia y Teruel. Desde la parada 'Apeadero de Rubielos' en Venta del Aire, hay unos 10 km hasta Olba.
Viniendo de la costa, es recomendable pasar Castelló de la Plana por la bonita CV-20 de Montanejos. Viniendo de Valencia o Madrid, salga de la autovía (A23) en la salida 71 (Venta del Aire).
where to stay
Refugio Alto Mijares
Masia La Hoz
(Cta. de Olba, Casa Bolea)
44480 San Agustin / Teruel
Tel: +34 602553676
==[en]==
Olba is a good base-camp for the various climbing crags in the Alto Mijares valley. The village and its barrios offer some hostels a well-sorted village shop and some bars as well.
==[de]==
Olba ist ein guter Ausgangsort für die verschiedenen Sektoren im Alto Mijares Gebiet. Das Dorf und seine verschiedenen Barrios bieten verschiedene Unterkünfte, einen kleinen Dorfladen sowie einige Bars.
==[es]==
Olba es una buena base para acceder a los diferentes sectores de la zona. El pueblo y sus barrios ofrecen unos albergues tanto como una pequeña tienda y unos bares.
ethic
1.1. Hoz del Mijares 164 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.127996, -0.682044
- Driving Directions:
- From Olba take the TE-V-2001 in direction to the highway Venta de Aires. Leave at Casa Bolea and follow a small road for approx. 1km and park your car above the electric power station in front of a relay station.
- Anfahrt:
- Von Olba in auf der TE-V-2001 Richtung Autobahnauffahrt Venta de Aires. Bei Casa Bolea abfahren und die schmale Piste etwa 1km bis zum E-Werk folgen. Oberhalb vom E-Wek vor einem Umspannwerk parken.
- Direcciones de manejo:
- Desde Olba tomar la TE-V-2001 en dirección a la autopista * Venta de Aires *. Salga en Casa Bolea y siga una pequeña carretera durante aprox. 1 km y estacione su automóvil sobre la central eléctrica frente a una estación de relevo.
approach
Parking: (
40.1277777, -0.68144788240)
or at the Refugio (40.12682619, -0.676491160) for 1€ per day
1.1.1. El Lado Umbrio 127 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.127028, -0.682282
- Walking Directions:
- From the parking lot walk in direction of the down pipe from the power plant. Use an iron stair an follow the pipe steep uphill until you reach the rock.
- Zustieg:
- Vom Parkplatz zu Fuss in Richtung Fallrohr des Wasserkraftwerkes über eine Leiter und weiter dem Fallrohr folgend steil ansteigend zu den Felsen.
description
==[en]==
Shadowy sector for hot summer days that offers quite long routes in superb rock quality.
Some of the difficult routes where equipped by Pedro Pons in the early 2000s. Meanwhile the old routes have been improved and therefore you can enjoy your efforts in the hard projects.
==[de]==
Schattiger Sommersektor mit recht langen Routen in sehr schönem Fels.
Einige der schweren Routen wurden Anfang der 2000er von Pedro Pons eingerichtet und wurden mittlerweile Saniert, so dass man seine Anstrengungen in den harten Projekten geniessen kann.
==[es]==
Sector umbrillo ideal para el verano que ofrece viás largas en roca excelente.
Unas de las vias mas dificiles, equipadas al principio de los años 2000 por Pedro Pons, cuya protección no esta al dia se estan renovando de momento.
approach
Disabled
==[en]==
You will reach the rock between the sector 'Obras Selectas' downhill to the left and 'Sombra Perpetua' a bit further uphill and right. To reach 'Central Park' traverse all the way to the left on the bottom of the rock.
==[de]==
Den Felsen erreicht man zwischen den Sektoren 'Obras Selectas' und 'Sombra Perpetua'. Zum Ersteren hält man sich leicht absteigend links und zum zweiten weiter ansteigend. Um zum 'Central Park' zu gelangen hält man sich immer weiter links am Wandfuss.
==[es]==
  |
1.1.1.1. Jardin de las musas 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.125567, -0.680614
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ WIP 1 | 5+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ WIP 2 | 6a | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 3 |
WIP 2.5
Set: Calodedio, 2021 | 6c | ||||||
| 4 | ★★ WIP 3 | 6b+ | 23m, 10 | |||||
| 5 | ★★ WIP 4 | 6b | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 6 | ★ WIP 5 | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 7 | ★ WIP 6 | 6a | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 8 | Onaya | 6b+ | 17m, 7 | |||||
1.1.1.2. Central Park 42 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.126802, -0.682402
- Im linken Teil, der von einem oberen Band startet das über ein Fixseil erreicht wird, gibt es Steilplatten in scharfen Fels erster Güte.
- Im Mittleren Teil ist bedingt durch die Länge oft Ausdauer angesagt.
- Die Routen im rechten Teil sind um einen grossen Pfeiler verteilt und bieten einige steile Lochklettereien aber auch klassische Linien.
description
==[en]==
==[de]==
Ein sehr interessanter Sektor für Klettereien ab dem 6. Grad. Seine Schattige Lage ermöglicht entspanntes Klettern an heissen Tagen und ein schöner Lagerplatz im mittleren Teil machen ihn auch für Gruppen und Familien attraktiv. Einige Routen sind sehr Lang und benötigen eine entsprechende Seillänge.
Die Klettereien sind sehr unterschiedlich:
==[es]==
history
==[en]==
==[de]==
Viele Routen im linken Teil des Sektors wurden schon um die Jahrtausendwende von Carlos de Dios und Kollegen eingerichtet und fristetet lange Zeit ein völlig unberechtigtes Schattendarsein. Erst mit der Neu- und Resterschliessung der Vorderen Sektoren bekam dieser schöne Sektor seine berechtigte Aufmerksammkeit - nicht zuletzt wegen der schönen Routen im Mittleren Schwierigkeitsbereich in oft Ausgezeichneten Fels. Die neusten und sehr vielfältigen Routen entstanden im rechten Teil ab 2012.
==[es]==
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left
| ||||||||
| 1 |
Energía ilimitada
Set: Eddy | 8a+ | 9 | |||||
| 2 |
Profecía de maños
Set: Frodo | 7b+ | 8 | |||||
| 3 |
Directo al fisio
Set: Renaud | 7c | 8 | |||||
| 4 |
Where are the tufas?
Set: Pitxi, Jun 2018 | 7c | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 5 |
Par de apriete
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 8a/a+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
Etiqueta negra
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 7c+/8a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
Casa Babylon
Set: Pixi, 1997 | 7a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Delaguasa
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 6c+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Hay Payo
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 7a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Triangulame
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 6b+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Whisper Potter
Set: Renaud | 7a+ | 12 | |||||
| 12 |
Casa Bolinga
Set: Pitxi, 2018 | 7b+ | 28m, 12 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 13 |
Falso Movimiento
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Perez & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 14 |
El estado de las Cosas
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Calodedio, Enric Muñoz & Manolo Pérez | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 15 | ★★ III República | 6b | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ La Armada Brancaleone
Warning Flora and Fauna: Hornets
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6b+ | 30m, 10 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Simplicissimus da Norcia
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6a+ | 28m, 14 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Ignatius
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez & Calodedio | 6b | 28m, 11 | |||||
| 19 |
★ Viaje al Fin de la Noche
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez & Calodedio | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||||
Center
| ||||||||
| 20 |
La Olvidada
Set: Calodedio & Alejandra Risquez, Jun 2020 | 6a+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 21 | ★★ El ciervo sagrado | 6c+ | 30m, 14 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ El Tratamiento Ludoviko
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 7a | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 23 |
Todos los Fuegos el Fuego
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6c+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Ravachol
Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6b | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 25 |
★ Sin Dolor
Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 6a+ | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ La Nit Corta
Warning Fixed Gear: No reseña
| 6a+ | 20m | |||||
| 27 |
★ La Nit del Dip
Set: Manolo Pérez, Carmenxu Suárez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 6c | 38m, 15 | |||||
| 28 |
★★ Hasta el fin del Mundo
Set: Calodedio, Enric Muñon, Manolo Pérez & Carmenxu Suárez | 7a | 37m, 2, 16 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ La Gran Ilusión
Set: Calodedio, Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez & Manolo Pérez | 6b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 30 |
★ Monsieur Verdoux
Set: Enric Muñoz, Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez & Calodedio | 6c | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Humillados y Ofendidos
Set: Carmenxu Suárez, Manolo Pérez, Enric Muñoz & Calodedio | 6b+ | 26m, 10 | |||||
Right
| ||||||||
| 32 |
★★★ Fuera de la casita
FA: Debora Schwertner, 8 Feb | 6c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 33 |
★★★ El Jabato Alado
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Paluis / Diedro Magico
Set: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 5c | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 35 |
El Cid
Set: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6a+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Groenlandia 2012
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Chimenea encantada
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 38 |
★★★ El encantador de Palabras
Warning Fixed Gear: Twisted bolt plate
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 6b+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 39 |
★ Habrapalabra
#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Jan 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 40 |
★ Babel
Set: Txenxo | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 41 |
★★ Duolingo
Set: Txenxo | 7a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 42 |
★★ Duden
Set: Txenxo | 7a | 15m, 5 | |||||
1.1.1.3. Obras Selectas 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127451, -0.683554
1.1.1.4. Sombra Perpetua 34 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127582, -0.684411
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pared Noroeste | ||||||||
| 1 |
★★ Sin Perdon / Sinperdón
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox | 7b+ | 35m, 11 | |||||
| 2 |
Sincronía rota / Los Cojones del Cainejo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 8a | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 3 | ★ Pepa Pig | 5+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 4 | George | 5 | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
Trío de ases
Set: sergio & Diego Denia | 7c | 30m, 9 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Viví los 90
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Franky | 6c+ | 22m, 11 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Sombra de ojos
==[de]== Vorsicht an den Blöcken beim Ausspreizen in der Mitte - nicht zu weit nach Links! ==[en]== Beware of the blocks when stemming in the middle - not too far to the left! ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Las sombras chinescas
==[de]== Der Überhang kann schön mit einer Kurzen Rechtsquerung überwunden werden. Sehr abwechslungsreich. ==[en]== The overhang can be nicely overcome with a short right crossing. Very varied. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Magic Tendon
Set: Sebas | 7a+ | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
Zas, en toda la Boca
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 11 |
Mal Sujeto
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b+ | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ La Reina de los Gatos
Set: Gadafi & Victor | 6a | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ El Emperador de los Gatos
==[de]== Die Verlängerung von 'La Reina de los Gatos' fügt noch einige steile Züge in löschrigen Fels hinzu. ==[en]== The extension of 'La Reina de los Gatos' adds some steep moves on nice pockets. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 30m, 15 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
La izquierda del Tubo | ||||||||
| 14 |
Chestainikio
Set: Edy | 7c+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
| 15 |
El llanto de Rampucen
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7c+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 16 |
★★★ Astrazeneca
Set: Samu Vidal, 2021 | 7c | 35m, 14 | |||||
| 17 |
Pfizer
Set: Samu Vidal, Apr 2021 | 7c+ | 35m, 14 | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ Daniel
Set: Samu Vidal, Apr 2021 | 7a+ | 35m, 13 | |||||
| 19 |
★★★ A ciegas
Set: Txenxo | 7b | 30m, 13 | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Euforia Inducida
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7b | 30m, 2, 13 | |||||
| 21 |
★★★ Sir Chris de Loida / Loida se sir Chris
To the first anchors of 'Euforia Inducida' | 7b+ | 35m, 13 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ Entretubo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_glue_in #bolt_material_inox Set: Jota & Txenxo | 6c+ | 27m, 12 | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Gran Hermano
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 27m, 13 | |||||
| 24 |
★★★ Vanyou
📷 de la vía en Instagram Set: Txenxo | 7a+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 25 | ★★ Quien más habla malacara | 7b | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 26 | ★★★ Septiembre | 7b | 25m, 12 | |||||
La derecha del Tubo | ||||||||
| 27 |
de Pirata?
Set: Pirata, 2015 | 7a | ||||||
| 28 |
Diversión por un tubo
Set: Victor Garrido, Mar 2018 | 7b | 30m, 14 | |||||
| 29 |
La Perla Negra
Set: Victor Garrido, Mar 2018 | 7b | 30m, 14 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 30 |
★★★ Walhalla
Set: Mar 2018 | 7a | 32m, 15 | |||||
| 31 |
★★★ Eva
Set: Samu Vidal, Mar 2018 | 7a+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
| 32 |
42 primaveras
Set: Samu Vidal, Mar 2019 | 7b | 35m, 17 | |||||
| 33 |
El team racho
Set: Samu Vidal, Jun 2022 | 7a - b | 22m, 17 | |||||
| 34 |
★★★ Mirko's Place
Set: Samu Vidal, Apr 2019 | 7a | 22m, 11 | |||||
1.1.1.5. El paraíso 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.127880, -0.685490
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ San Agustin
Set: sergio, 2015 | 7b | 9 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ El deseo
Set: sergio, 2015 | 7a | 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Jaque mate
Set: sergio, 2015 | 7b | 11 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Finnissima
Set: sergio, 2015 | 7a+ | 13 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Anaia
Set: Juanalborea & Alba | 7b | 12 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Acupuntura de Altura
Set: Diego Denia, 2015 | 6c+ | 10 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Climax de Olba
Set: Diego Denia, 2015 | 7a | 13 | |||||
| 8 |
La Rara
Set: Diego Denia & Laura, 2015 | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Atrapa Sueños
Set: Diego Denia & Laura | 7a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Bavaresa indulgente
Set: Diego Denia & Laura | 6b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
Rabiosa
Set: Diego Denia & Laura | 7b+ | 14 | |||||
| 12 |
Aritmética vertical
Set: sergio | 7c | 12 | |||||
1.1.2. El Lado Soleado 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129199, -0.681635
approach
==[es]==
Desde el parking o desde el Refugio bajamos y pasaremos por el antiguo Molino de la Hoz. Más adelante, cruzamos el puente sobre el rio Mijares. A escasos 50 metros encontramos una senda a la izquierda que nos llevaría a los restos arqueológicos. Continuando por esa senda y pasando dichos restos arqueológico y un túnel llegaríamos a mano derecha al sector 'Imperio del Sol'
 |
1.1.2.1. Imperio del Sol 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.129636, -0.682395
1.1.2.2. Rovaniemi 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.129644, -0.681658
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Jingle Bells | 6a+ | 14m, 8 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Papa Noël | 6b | 15m, 7 | |||||
1.1.2.3. Bastión 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.129752, -0.681587
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ser-1
Set: sergio | 15m | ||||||
| 2 |
Ser-2
Set: sergio | 15m | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 3 | ★ Caballo de Troya | 6b+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ MIR-1 | 3c | 12m, 5 | |||||
1.1.3. Rocas del Refugio 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 40.125679, -0.676868
 |
1.1.3.1. Pirámide del Refugio 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.126766, -0.677254
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Nefertitis | 5c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 2 | ★★★ Anuket | 6c | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Amun | 5c | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Ra | 6b | 12m, 6 | |||||
1.1.3.2. Bloque del Refugio 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.126120, -0.677307
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Project | 10m | ||||||
| 2 | ★ Tim | 6c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 3 | ★ Susan | 6b | 10m, 3 | |||||
1.1.3.3. Bloque del Jardín 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 40.125044, -0.676246
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ YoYo
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 2 |
★ Diabolo
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 3 |
Devil Sticks
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 4 |
Pelotas Malabares
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 5a - c | 10m | |||
| 5 |
★ Rubiks Cube
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 5b | 10m, 6 | |||
| 6 |
★ Boomerang
Set: Nicky, May 2019 | 4c | 10m | |||
1.1.3.4. Mirador 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.124480, -0.677319
approach
==[en]==
==[de]==
Vom Refugio die unbefestigte Waldstrasse in einigen Serpentinen Bergauf bis kurz unter die Hauptstrasse. Rechts beim Steinmann wenige Meter durch den Wald zur Wand.
==[es]==
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ ¿Dónde está Marcelo?
==[en]== ==[de]== Etwas pressig und oben nach rechts zum Umlenker von 'Aromat'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Simon Birk & Nicky, 16 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 16 Oct 2017 | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Aromat
==[en]== ==[de]== Schöne Lochkletterei mit einigen Längenzügen. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Simon Birk & andi, 14 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 14 Oct 2017 | 6a+ | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Cumpleaños
==[en]== ==[de]== Nach dem kräftigen Start folgen einige technische Züge über die Bänder. Oben im Rechtsbogen zum selben Umlenker wie 'Buena Vista Climbing Club' ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Nicky & Simon Birk, 17 Oct 2017 FFA: Simon Birk, 17 Oct 2017 | 6c | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Buena Vista Climbing Club
==[en]== ==[de]== Start in Verschneidung dann direkt und abwechslungsreich durch die leicht überhängende Wand mit schönem Finale. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Mirko, Nicky & Simon Birk, 21 Oct 2017 FFA: Nicky, 21 Oct 2017 | 6c+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
1.1.3.5. Pared de la Familia 0 routes in Sector
1.2. Casucho 145 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129510, -0.673098
- Familien:
- Auch wenn das Routenangebot für Kinder bisher gering ist sind doch die Einstiegsbereiche einiger Sektoren als Familienlagerplatz geeignet. Besonders die Sektoren um den Bergfreundeturm und die 'Esquina española' bieten sich als Spielplatz für die Kleinen an. An der Brücke über den Mijares befindet sich eine schöne Badestelle in 3 Minuten Entfernung vom Abzweig zum Casucho-Hof.
description
==[en]==
Above the Casucho homestead the homonymous climbing area offers a good view on the junction of the rivers Mijares and Palomarejas. The stretched cliff is separated into multiple small sectors. The so called "detached rocks" (some pinnacles) and a nice rock-alley are the highlights of the spot. The common Casucho pitch is steep pocket pulling up to 30m.
==[de]==
Oberhalb des Casucho-Hofes befindet sich das gleichnamige Klettergebiet am Zusammenfluss des Mijares und des Palomarejas. Das langgezogende Felsband weist eine Vielzahl von unterschiedlichen Sektoren auf deren Besonderheit sicherlich die "Abgetrennten Steine" (Felstürme) und eine schöne Felsengasse sind. Es handelt sich um mehrheitlich senkrechte Routen in löchrigem Kalk mit einer Höhe von bis zu 30m.
==[es]==
Situada arriba de la masía Casucho esta área ofrece unas vistas hermosas sobre los ríos Mijares y Palomarejas. Una pared larga se divide en múltiples sectores, entre aquellos destacan las "piedras partidas" (unos torres/agujas) y el callejón. Mayoritariamente son vías en caliza agujerada con una altura hasta 30m.
approach
Parking: (40.12677535, -0.668390073)
 |
1.2.1. Callejón 68 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.130368, -0.673983
history
Es wird berichtet, dass der grosse der Abgespaltenen Türme (Bergfreundeturm) wie die freistehenden Türme im Volksmund heissen, schon früher von Bewohnern des Casucho Gehöftes mit Hilfe von Seilwürfen zwecks Honigernte bestiegen wurde. Die erste bekannte sportliche Begehung erfolgte 2010 von Mirko und Nicky Hochmuth clean über den heute schon etwas besser gesicherten und geputzten 'Bergfreundeweg'.
La más alta de las torres divididas (Bergfreundeturm), como se llama popularmente a las torres independientes, fue escalada antes por los residentes de la casa de Casucho con la ayuda de una cuerda arrojándolas para cosechar miel. El primer ascenso deportivo conocido tuvo lugar en 2010 por Mirko y Nicky Hochmuth en el 'Bergfreundeweg', que ahora está un poco mejor asegurado y limpio.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
El Bidón
| ||||||||
| 1 |
★★ La chica que soñaba con una cerilla y un bidón de gasolina
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Ultra
Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Intifalla | 6b | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 4 | ★ El Bidonero | 5+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Barrel of a gun
| 6b | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 6 | ★ Celtis australis | 6c | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Teruel existe
Set: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 | 6b | 15m | |||||
Meteoblue
| ||||||||
| 8 | ★ Cerasium | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Mi pequeña Loli
Set: Ramon Cadalas, Jose Muñoz & Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 FFA: Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 FA: Ramón Cadalas & Pel Anchon, 26 Sep 2015 | 6c+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
Viaje a Cálcena
Set: Txenxo Lli, 16 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
Intrusos
Set: Txenxo Lli, 16 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Take it easy
Set: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Jose Luis Segui, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Karacter / R2
Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Apr 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ keep calm / R3
Set: Txenxo Lli, 2013 FFA: Txenxo Lli, 2013 FA: 2013 | 7b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 15 |
★★★ Drakaris
Set: Toni Montiel & Franky Loriguilla, Jun 2019 | 7a+ | ||||||
| 16 |
★★★ Fundamental / R4
FA: Txenxo Lli, 2013 Set: Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 17 |
Fundacorporal / R5
Set: Txenxo Lli | 7b+ | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Ardilla
| 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Relámpago
| 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Trueno
| 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
Callejón - Felsengasse
| ||||||||
| 21 |
★★ Chupa chupa que yo te veo
Set: Juan Tocayo, 1 May 2015 FA: Juan Tocayo, 1 May 2015 | 7a+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 22 |
★ Regalo de boda
Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 | 7b | 24m | |||||
| 23 |
★★★ Curva peligrosa
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 26m, 11 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Curva peligrosa (Salida directa)
Set: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli, 1 Mar 2013 | 7b | 24m | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Don Camillo / ATR 1
Set: Txenxo Lli & sergio, 29 Nov 2015 | 7b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ Peppone / ATR 2
Set: Txenxo Lli & sergio, Dec 2015 | 7b | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 27 |
★ El cuarentón apretón!!
Set: sergio, 31 May 2014 | 7b | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 28 | ★★ Lereles | 7c | 22m, 13 | |||||
| 29 | ★★ Super Mario | 6b | 19m, 9 | |||||
| 30 | ★★ Super Luigi | 7a | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Räuber Fotzenglotz
| 6b | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 32 |
★★ Top Tool
| 6b+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
Bergfreundeturm
| ||||||||
North-EastNordosten - Noreste | ||||||||
| 33 |
★ Alquequenje
Set: Chris Lin & Mirko, 26 Jun 2014 FA: Chris Lin, 26 Jun 2014 | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 34 |
★★★ Neujahrsverschneidung
| 5c | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 35 |
Alameda
Set: Txenxo Lli, 2013 | 7c | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Y lo bien
Set: Txenxo Lli, 26 May 2013 FA: sergio, 26 May 2013 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Avenida
Set: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6c | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 38 |
★★ Rambla
Set: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 39 |
★★ Vale la peña
| 6a | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Calle
Set: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 FA: Txenxo Lli & Alfredo Agullo, 1 Mar 2013 | 6a | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 41 |
★★ Bergfreundeweg
| 5b | 22m, 1 | |||||
| 42 |
★ Paseo de Canossa
| 6a+ | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 43 |
★ Larga Marcha
| 5c | 20m, 7 | |||||
| 44 |
★ Via Pecuária
| 5a | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 45 |
★ Camino del Cid
| 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
South-WestSüdwesten - suroeste | ||||||||
| 46 | ★★ Lucifer | 7a | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 47 | ★★ Luciernaga | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 48 | ★★ El perro anda luz | 6c | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 49 |
★★ Luz de Madiba
| 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 50 |
★★ Luz del otoño
| 6a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 51 | Podemos | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
EastOsten - Este | ||||||||
| 52 |
★★ Kurt-Albert-Gedächtnisweg
In remembrance of Kurt Albert †.
In Erinnerung an Kurt Albert † .
En memoria de Kurt Albert † | 6a+ | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 53 |
★★ Punto rojo
| 6a | 17m, 7 | |||||
Entretorres
| ||||||||
| 54 | ★★ Tritón | 6b | 26m, 11 | |||||
| 55 |
★★ Capicúa
| 6b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 56 |
★★ Fondue
| 6c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
| 57 |
★ Moite Moite
| 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 58 |
★ Vacherin fribourgeois
| 6b | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 59 |
★ Gruyère
| 6a+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 60 |
★★ Vosotras parís, vosotras decidís.
| 6b+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 61 |
★★ Judit
Set: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 21 Dec 2013 FA: Carlos Tudela, 21 Dec 2013 | 6a | 15m, 9 | |||||
Horzelbub
| ||||||||
| 62 |
★★ AW
| 5a | 18m, 1 | |||||
| 63 |
★★ Deß-esperado
| 5c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 64 |
★★ Talweg
| 6c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 65 |
★ Sandwich listo
Set: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, May 2014 | 4c | 18m, 6 | |||||
Esquina suiza
| ||||||||
| 66 |
★ Tellplatte
| 6b+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 67 |
★★ El Cantón
| 6b | 13m, 5 | |||||
| 68 | ★★ Sabina | 6a+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
                   |
||||||||
1.2.2. Don Quijote 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.129401, -0.672867
description
==[en]==
Large sector in the center of the Casucho riff. To get there go to the left from 'Steinschleuder' or to the right from 'Horzelbub' on small trails. Steep climbing on very abrasive rock up to 25m on some beautiful natural lines are the positive facts the extreme sun trap after noon is the opposite point.
==[de]==
Grosser Sektor in der Mitte vom Casucho. Zustieg entweder rechtshaltend vom 'Horzelbub' oder linkshaltend von der 'Steinschleuder' am Wandfuss entlang. Steiler und zum Teil sehr rauer Fels mit einer Höhe von bis zu 25m. Einige Wege folgen schönen Linien entlang von Rissen und Verschneidungen. Die Sonne erreicht den Sektor gegen Mittag.
==[es]==
Sector grande en el centro del Casucho. Acceder al pie de la pared desde 'Horzelbub' o 'Steinschleuder'. Roca buena y muy vertical con una altura hasta 25m. Unas vías hermosas siguen fisuras y diedros. El sol entra aproximadamente al mediodía.
history
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Don Quijote | ||||||||
| 1 |
★★ Susurrando a Sebastián
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015 FA: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015 | 6a+ | 10 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Rosinante
The corner to the left of the small pillar leads to a steep headwall with pockets. Go right at the end to the anchors of 'Rucio' .
An der linken Rissverschneidung vom Pfeiler zur löchrigen und steilen Headwall dann nach rechts und wie 'Rucio' aussteigen.
Pasar el diedro izquierdo del espolón (fisura) a la pared vertical. Se reúne con 'Rucio' al llegar a la penúltima chapa. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 19m, 10 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Rucio
Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets. Same anchors as 'Rosinante'.
Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern zum gemeinsamen Umlenker mit 'Rosinante'.
Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. La misma reu como 'Rosinante'. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 19m, 9 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Sancho Panza
The small pillar from the ground leads to a crack with good pockets and crimps. Before you climb to the right chain a awkward move up to the ledge is waiting on you.
Über kleinen Pfeiler hin zur markanten Rissverschneidung an schönen Löchern und Leisten hin zum abdrängenden Überhang weiter nach rechts zum Umlenker.
Un pequeño espolón lleva a una fisura con buenos agujeros y listones. Poco antes de girar a la derecha te espera un movimiento algo raro. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Luchar contra Molinos de Viento
Reachy and sustained pocket pulling with poor footholds are the first crux of this nice climb. At the top it also takes the crux of 'Don Quijote' and the same anchors.
Ausdauernde Lochkletterei mit Crux im Überhang führt zu steiler Tropflochplatte. Am Ende noch über die Crux vom 'Don Quijote' hin zum gemeinsamen Umlenker.
Escalada persistente y desplomada con malos puntapiés (primera crux) y pared vertical a la crux de 'Don Quijote' y a la misma reu. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 24m, 13 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Don Quijote
An enjoyably and long dihedral with a thin finish.
Schöne und lange Verschneidungskletterei hin zur kleingriffigeren Crux kurz vor dem Umlenker - sehr zu Empfehlen.
Escalda larga de diedro con una crux fina al llegar a la reu. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Caballero de los Leones
Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets with a slightly sustained finish.
Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern mit Ausdauerfinale.
Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 8 | Hidalgo | |||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
★ Dulcinea
Steep face climbing with an interesting finish. Stop at the anchors of 'Aldonza' for a 6a.
Steile Wandkletterei mit schönem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Für eine 6a am Umlenker von 'Aldonza' abseilen.
Escalada vertical con una salida a la reunion interesante. 6a hasta la reunión de 'Aldonza'. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Grisóstomo
Interisting and varied route that shares the last bolt and the anchor with 'Aldonza'.
Interessante und abwechsulgsreiche Route, teilt sich den letzten Bolt und den Umlenker mit 'Aldonza'.
Vía interesante y variada, comprate el ultimo bolt y la reu con 'Aldonza'. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Aldonza
This enjoyable moderate climbing follows a small pillar to the lower anchors.
Folgt einer Rampe in genüsslicher Kletterei zum Stand in Wandmitte.
Escalada placentera siguiendo una rampa a la reunion en el medio de la pared. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ El Toboso
Nice pocket pulling. The crux is a bit more sustained as you might expect.
Schönes Lochgehangel mit anhaltender Crux.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ La fres-cura
Technical start and finish with huge jugs in between to pull trough.
Technischer Ein- und Ausstieg und dazwischen ein paar riesen Henkel zum durchziehen.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 22m, 12 | |||||
| 14 |
★ Brocabruno
The awkward start might give you a good pump.
Wer am Start schon viel falsch macht wird sich oben über die dicken Arme beschweren.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Coro Alto | ||||||||
| 15 |
Telendos
The route on the left end of 'Coro Alto' offers a good climb on a dihedral, face and a bulge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts.
Linker Weg im 'Coro Alto' Sektor durch schöne Verschneidung, Wand und einen Bauch. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5 | 14m, 7 | |||||
| 16 |
Masouri
Kniffliger Einstieg und dann Verschneidung. Wer den Baum am Einstieg mitbenutzt, macht es sich leichter. Selber Umlenker wie 'Telendos'.
An awkward start is followed by a dihedral. Who uses the tree avoids the crux. Same anchors as 'Telendos'.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Cincuentenario
Dihedral, a overhang and sustained pocketing - well worth it.
Verschneidung, Überhang und Ausdauerhenkel - sehr lohnend.
Diedro, un desplome y agujeros en constancia - vale la pena. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Rafa Sorribes, 12 Oct 2014 | 6b | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 18 | ★★ Los 3 jinetes del apocalipsis | 6b+ | 16m, 9 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ El 8º mandamiento
In schöner und abwechslungsreicher Kletterei bis zum letzten Bolt. Dann etwas exponiert mit Rechtsschleife zur Crux kurz vorm Umlenker: Guten Flug!
Nice and diversified climbing until the last bolt. Now comes the expo and right bending crux: Have a nice flight! #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Enric Muñoz, 11 Oct 2014 | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 20 | Apocalipsis | 17m, 6 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 21 | Púlpito | 5b | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 22 | ★ Presbiterio | 6a+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 23 | Trascoro | 6a | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 24 |
Ley de Brandolini
FFA: Calodedio Set: Tomás Vives & Luis Compte, 27 Mar | 5a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 25 |
Medios de desinformación
FA: Tomás Vives Set: Asun Vives, Tomás Vives & Luis Compte, 8 May | 5a | 18m, 7 | |||||
1.2.3. Esquinas 52 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.128411, -0.671460
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Steinschleuder==[en]== Nice pillar up to 20m height with routes worth doing. The rock offers various sharp pockets. ==[de]== Schöner Pfeiler mit einer Höhe von 20m der eine Reihe sehr lohnender Wege im rauen und löchrigen Fels bietet. ==[es]== Bonito pilar de 20m de altura con unas vias en roca agujereada que valen la pena. | ||||||||
| 1 |
★ ERE que ERE
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
Cuñadismo bien
FA: Tomás Vives Set: Tomás Vives & Luis Compte, 6 Mar | 5b | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Fosilizado
Set: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 26 Mar 2017 FFA: Carlos Tudela, 26 Mar 2017 | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Sombra del Icaro
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
El último Arnadí
Set: Luis & Asun, Jan 2022 | 5 | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Catapulta
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Las chicas son guerreras
Set: Ramon & Gatxa, Apr 2016 | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Cíclope
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Haubitze
==[en]== Technique compensates the steep start but nevertheless the endurance rest needs some power left and a good overview - worth doing. ==[de]== Steiler Einstieg der mit etwas technik überwunden wird gefolgt von Ausdauer und einem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Schöne Felsstrukturen - bietet etwas länger Schatten als die rechten Nachbarn. ==[es]== Salida exigente seguido por escalda persistente y un final que demanda vista. Ofrece un poco mas sombra que sus vecinos por la derecha. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 10 |
★ Honda
==[en]== A steep bulk as start followed by a nice arête to the anchors of 'Haubitze'. ==[de]== Steiler Bauch am Einstieg gefolgt von schöner Kante zum Umlenker von 'Haubitze'. ==[es]== Una salida ventruda seguido por un espolon bonito a la de 'Haubitze'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Trebuchet
==[en]== Same first 3 bolts as 'Tirachinas' and then go left on nice pockets and to a moderate finish. ==[de]== Nach gemeinsamen Einstieg mit 'Tirachinas' folgt eine kurze Querung an schönen Löchern vom Absatz zum Riss und dann ein genussvoller Ausstieg. ==[es]== Las mismas primeras chapas de 'Tirachinas', luego hacia la izquierda a la fisura y una salida a la reunion moderata. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★ Tirachinas
==[en]== Same first 3 bolts as 'Trebuchet' and then straight up the bulk and at the top stay at the left bended edge to same anchors. ==[de]== Vom Absatz gerade weiter in löchrigen kurzen Überhang am Ende im Linksbogen der Kante entlang zum Umlenker von 'Trebuchet'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 13 |
Manganell
FA: Asun Vives Set: Asun Vives & Luis Compte, 15 Feb | 5c | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 14 |
★ Medusa
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 15 Feb 2014 | 5c | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Sísifo
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Tombatossals
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 20m, 7 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Esquina alemana==[en]== Sunny sector with a wide range of routes in nice rock with lots of pockets. You will find some good rest places at the ground for your family. To the far left there is a nice steep slab with more good holds than expected - the sun comes here at the afternoon. ==[de]== Sonniger Sektor mit einem breiten Spektrum an Routen in schönem mit Löchern durchsetztem Fels. Im Einstiegsbereich gibt es einige gute Lagerplätze für die ganze Familie. Linkerhand gibt es eine schöne Steilplatte, die mehr Griffe bietet als erwartet - diese ist erst ab dem Nachmittag sonnig. ==[es]== Sector soleado con una buena variedad de vías en roca con muchos agujeros. Hay sitios buenos al pie de la pared para toda la familia. En su extrema izquierda hay una placa bonita y muy vertical que ofrece mas agarre que la primera vista hace pensar. El sol llega allí por la tarde. | ||||||||
| 17 |
★★ Jakob László
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Anika
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Negro
==[en]== Easy corner. ==[de]== Leichte Verschneidung ==[es]== Diedro fácil y corto. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 20 |
★ Rojo
==[en]== Similar to 'Dorado' but easier. ==[de]== Wie 'Dorado', nur leichter. ==[es]== Similar a 'Dorado' pero mas fácil. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Dorado
==[en]== Nice vertical slab with technical moves. ==[de]== Schöne Steilplatte mit technischen Zügen ==[es]== Placa técnica y vertical. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 22 |
★★★ Eckstein
==[en]== Go right to the edge from the first bolt of 'Dorado'. Follow the edge in some powerful and technical moves to the same anchors. Unfortunately much to short. ==[de]== Vom ersten Bolt vom 'Dorado' rechts haltend zur Kante. In schönen athletischen und technischen Zügen die überhängende Kante empor und zum selben Umlenker. Leider viel zu kurz. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 23 |
★ Riadas
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 15m, 6 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Colores del Otoño
==[en]== Similar to 'Vientos del Otoño' but easier. ==[de]== Wie 'Vientos del Otoño', nur leichter. ==[es]== Similar a 'Vientos del Otoño' pero mas fácil. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Vientos del Otoño
==[en]== Steep face to ledge and together with 'Colores del Otoño' to the anchors. ==[de]== Steile Wand zu Absatz und zusammen mit 'Colores del Otoño' zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Escalada en pared vertical y junto con 'Colores del Otoño' a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ Mito y logos
Escalada con buen agarre, lijeramente desplomada y un poco picante para el final. | 6b | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 27 |
★★★ Tres cabras
==[en]== Similar to 'Via de ampolletes' but a bit more sustained. Pocket pulling at its best - highly recommended. ==[de]== Wie der 'Via de ampolletes' nur noch etwas anhaltender. Lochgehangel vom Feinsten - sehr lohnenswert. ==[es]== Similar a 'Via de ampolletes' pero mas persistente y desplomada. Muy recomendable. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 28 |
★★★ Via de ampolletes
==[en]== On good holds but pumpy to the anchors. ==[de]== Der Name ist Programm - an griffigen Sanduhren etwas pumpig zur Kette. ==[es]== Desplomado y persistente a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ Friedrichshain
==[en]== Same start as 'Via de ampolletes' than follow the bended right crag to the same anchors. Nice and exposed climbing with the crux at the end. ==[de]== Gleicher Einstieg und wie 'Via de ampolletes' und dann den gebogenen Riss rechts folgend in schöner und luftiger Kletterei zum Umlenker von 'Via de ampolletes'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 30 |
★★ La curva del murcielago / Fledermausweg
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 31 |
★★★ La piñata / R7
==[en]== Sustained face climbing. Do not fall before the second bolt. At the end big jugs show up where you need them most. ==[de]== Ausdauernde Wandkletterei. Vor dem 2 Bolt besser nicht stürzen! Am Ende - dort wo man sie braucht - fantastische Henkel an Sanduhren. ==[es]== Escalada persistente, mejor no caer antes llegar a la segunda chapa. Al llegar a la reu hay agarres fantásticos. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 32 |
★★★ Kanzlereck
==[en]== Powerful and awkward start leads to moderate edge climbing - same anchors as 'R7'. ==[de]== Bouldriger Einstieg gefolgt von leichterer und schöner Kantenkletterei - selber Umlenker wie 'R7'. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 11 Jan 2013 FA: Jakob Hoppstock, 15 Jan 2013 | 7a | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 33 |
★ Kamin
==[en]== Uncomfortable chimney and arête. ==[de]== Abdrängender Kamin und Kante der sich gut Ausspreizen lässt. ==[es]== Chimenea y canto, algo incómodo. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Esquina española==[en]== Sector at the east end of the cliff with short and easy pitches with lots of pockets. The sun enters in the afternoon. ==[de]== Östlichster Sektor mit kürzeren einfachen Routen in sehr löchrigem Fels. Durch die gute Auswahl an einfachen Routen und den guten Lagerplätzen unter den Routen 'Catorce costillas' bis 'Esperando a Nuria' sehr für Familien geeignet. Vormittags im Schatten. ==[es]== Sector al lado este de la pared con vías cortas y fáciles con mucho agarre. Sombra hasta el mediodía. | ||||||||
| 34 | ★ Artemisia G | 6b+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 35 | ★★ Las 13 rosas | 6b+ | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Rosa Real
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Eli Vergès
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 38 |
★ Catorce costillas
==[en]== Nice but short some strength comes in handy same anchors as 'Doce Uvas' ==[de]== Kurz aber schön etwas Kraft ist Hilfreich - gleicher Umlenker wie 'Doce Uvas'. ==[es]== Bonito pero cortito - algo de fuerza resulta útil y a la misma reu de 'Doce Uvas'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 39 |
★ Doce Uvas
==[en]== Nice but short some technique comes in handy ==[de]== Kurz aber schön etwas Technik ist Hilfreich ==[es]== Bonito pero cortito - algo de tecnica resulta útil ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Los Ramones
==[en]== Face and corner to a the anchors. ==[de]== Abwechslungsreich durch Wand und Verschneidung zum Umlenker. ==[es]== Pared y diedro a la reu. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 5c | 19m, 8 | |||||
| 41 |
★ Esperando a Nuria
==[en]== Diversified face climbing to the anchors of 'R5' ==[de]== Abwechslungsreiche Wandkletterei zum Umlenker von 'R5' ==[es]== Escalada variada a la reu de 'R5'. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 42 | ★ Esperando a Abet | 6b+ | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 43 |
★ Relatos salvajes
==[en]== Short and strenuous overhang with a thin finish. ==[de]== Kurzer kräftiger Überhang mit dünnem finish. ==[es]== Desplome corto y explosivo con un fin fino. ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 44 |
★ ... y vienen dos!
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Nacho Aznar, 8 Sep 2013 FA: Calodedio, 8 Sep 2013 | 6a+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
| 45 |
★ Parabolts perdidos
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 46 |
★ La Artiga
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 5c | 12m, 6 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 47 |
★ Los Ibañez
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 5b | 11m, 7 | |||||
| 48 |
★ Murciélago
==[en]== Similar to 'Noro virus' but without the big holds. ==[de]== Ähnlich wie 'Noro virus' nur fehlen oft die grossen Griffe. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 49 |
★ Noro virus
==[en]== A moderate route that looks a bit easier than it is - but nevertheless you will find many big holds. ==[de]== Fühlt sich etwas Steiler an als es aussieht aber hat immer grosse Griffe. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 50 |
★ Los Lucas
==[en]== One of the easiest routes an a slap with many features - good for beginners ==[de]== Leichtester Weg auf geneigter und strukturierter Wand - gut für Anfänger. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 5a | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 51 |
★ Los Giles
==[en]== The route on the eastern end of Casucho offers a good climb on a face, dihedral and edge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts. ==[de]== Östlichster Weg im Casucho durch schöne Wand, Veschneidung und Kante. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten. ==[es]== ==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: unknown, 2005 | 6a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 52 |
★ Pepe, no te quiero
==[hash]== #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 12m, 6 | |||||
1.3. Palomarejas 150 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.133022, -0.674688
approach
Parking: (40.12677535, -0.668390073) or for the southern sectors (40.1277777, -0.68144788240)
and at the Refugio (40.12682619, -0.676491160) for 1€ per day
 |
1.3.1. El Lado Umbrio 43 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.132559, -0.673411
description
==[en]==
In the valley of the Palomarejas river you will find various sectors in compact limestone in a quiet and nice scenery. Most of the routes are sheltered from the sun due to trees or the orientation and therefore it is a very good area for the hot season.
==[de]==
Im Tal des Rio Palomarejas befinden sich einige schöne Wände in sehr kompaktem Fels. Die Wände sind grösstenteils schattig bis halbschattig, was sie insbesondere in der warmen Jahreszeit attraktiv macht.
==[es]==
En el barranquo del Rio Palomarejas se encuentra unas paredes bonitas en roca bastante compacta. Las paredes estan mayoriamente en la sombra o penumbra, que las hace especialmente atractivos en verano.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Soñar con ...==[en]== A little bit upstream of 'El cielo nocturno' this shady crag makes you enjoy some nice classic lines, dihedrals and cracks in absolute silence. It makes you dream of ... ==[de]== Weiter flussaufwärts folgt nach dem 'El cielo nocturno' dieser kleine schattige Sektor mit seinen schönen klassischen Linien. Verschneidungen, Risse und auch einen luftiger Übertritt kann man dort in völliger Ruhe geniessen. So kommt es, dass man sich schnell mal an einem anderen Ort wähnt. ==[es]== Un poco mas alla del 'El cielo nocturno' este sector sombroso te hace disfrutar unas lineas clasicas, fisuras y diedros en un entorno muy silencioso. Te hace soñar con ... | ||||||||
| 1 | ★ Cara | 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Snake
The blanc section shortly after the start can be solved surprisingly easy with some monos. If you know where to find and reach them. Short but worth doing. Same anchors as Dike.
Die plattige Stelle kurz nach dem Einstieg kann erstaunlich einfach mit Hilfe einiger Fingerlöcher bewältigt werden. Wenn man weiss wo sie sind und man die nötige Länge hat. Kurz aber Lohnenswert. Gemeinsamer Stand mit Dike.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Dike
Less pockets than usual in this sector but some side pulls to deal with. Diversified climbing on that short route.
Untypisch wenige Löcher dafür einige Leisten und Kanten zum pressen. Sehr abwechslungsreich auf die wenigen Meter.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Salvados del trigo
Set: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, May 2016 | 5c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Frankenjura
A crimpy start leads to a nice dihedral followed by a headwall with smooth pockets almost like the pocket puling in Frankenjura.
Ein kleingriffiger Start führt in eine schöne Verschneidung und einer Headwall mit ergonomischen Löscheren fast wie im Frankenjura .
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 14m, 8 | |||||
| 6 |
El fofo
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Pel Anchon, 9 Jul 2016 | 7b+ | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Langtang
Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg mit einer Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Calodedio, Jun 2016 FA: Pel Anchon, Jun 2016 | 6c | 18m, 10 | |||||
| 8 |
Langtang directa
Schöner abwechslungsreicher Weg ohne die Links-Rechts-Schleife in der Mitte danach Ausdauernd zum Umlenker.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Calodedio, Jun 2016 | 6c+ | 17m, 9 | |||||
/84/c6/84c6296f7a7ca5fd87f12624d0267455e3be889f)  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | Mermelada de cerezas | 7b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ ... el diedro Fehrmann
A prototype corner: nice but never really easy.
Eine prototypische Verschneidung - schön aber doch nie ganz einfach.
Un diedro prototipico, bonito pero nunca de verdad facill. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ ... el Elbsandstein
Start on top of the boulder with a committing step into the right traverse. Sustained on good holds to the top of the crag - various and recommended.
Start vom Block mit Übertritt und dann ein kurzer Rechtsquergang. Anschliesend henklig aber pumpig den Riss bis zum Umlenker - Abwechslungsreich und empfehlenswert.
Comienza encima el bloque con un paso expuesto, seguido por una travesia hacia la derecha y una fisura de continuidad. Variada y muy recomendada. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Mirko & Johannes Petzold, 2 Oct 2013 FA: Johannes Petzold, Mirko & Nicky, 2 Oct 2013 | 6a+ | 14m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Babilonia
Set: Mirko & Calodedio, 5 May 2015 FFA: Pel Anchon, 10 May 2015 | 7a | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 13 | ★★ Acción invertida | 7a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Sakys, big problem
Placa vertical y técnica sobre pequeñas regletas. Set: Calodedio, Pel Anchon & Alejandra Risquez, 18 Oct 2015 | 7b | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Nabuco
Set: Calodedio & Alejandra Risquez, 2 May 2015 | 6c+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Oneironaut
Set: Mirko & Tobi, 27 Mar 2016 FFA: Tobi, 27 Mar 2016 | 7a | 18m, 9 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ ... el lado oscuro
The nice and technical start is followed by a sustained section until the anchors.
Nach einem schönen technischen Start folgen einige anhaltende Züge bis zum Umlenker.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 12m, 6 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
El cielo nocturno==[en]== Nice sector following the 'Olimpo'. Perfect lime in a very compact wall, though it is just a bit longer than 10m its route are well worth the visit. The route setters were so excited about the rock quality that the route density is above the Alto Mijares average, so keep close to the routes bolts to stick to the proposed grading. The sector lies in the shade, the sun hardly only enters in summer afternoons. The base is a bit inclined but offers some green resting areas suitable for families. ==[de]== Schöner Sektor im Anschluss an den 'Olimpo'. Perfekter Lochkalk in einer sehr kompakten Wand deren Wandhöhe zwar nur etwas mehr als 10m beträgt aber die Routen sind fast alle sehr lohnend. Die Erschliesser waren von der Routenqualität so angetan, das hier die Routendichte etwas höher ist als sonst. Für den vorgeschlagenen Schwierigkeitsgrad sollte man daher nahe der eigenen Bolts bleiben. Der Sektor liegt schattig hinter Bäumen und sieht nur im Sommer ab späten Nachmittag etwas Sonne. Der Wandfuss ist zwar etwas abfallend aber entspannt und mit einigen Rasenstellen und somit gut für Familien geeignet. ==[es]== Bonito sector suigendo el 'Olimpo'. Perfecta caliza en una pared muy compacta, aunque no supera mucho los 10m sus vias valen la visita. Los equipadores eran tan encantados de la roca que la densidad de las vias es arriba de lo habitual de la zona, asi que para quedar con el grado propuesto habra que escalar cerca de las parabolts de las vias. El sol apenas entra en verano por la tarde. Esto y sus terrasas verdes en la base le hacen un sector idóneo para familias en verano. | ||||||||
| 18 |
★ Toser y ganar
A short route to the left - a bit sandy.
Kurze Lochkletterei am linken Ende des Sektors in teilweise etwas sandigem Fels.
Via corta al loado izquierdo del sector - con un poco de patina. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6b | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 19 |
Luna creciente
The first route in sector - good warm up.
Erster Weg am Sektor - gut zum warm machen.
La primera vía del sector y la mas facil - buena para calientarse. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 5b | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 20 |
★ Lo inesperado
Nice pocket pulling with the crux in the middle.
Schöne Lochkletterei mit kniffliger Stelle in Wandmitte.
Pared agujereada con la crux por la mitad de la vía. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 21 |
★★ El reto
Rightwards in nice climbing to a puzzling final.
Rechtsansteigend in schöner Kletterei bis zum spannenden Finale: gewusst wie ...
Diagonál hacia la derecha a un final bonito y tenso. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 11m, 6 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ El retro
Sustained and various: stretchy pockets, technically traverse and a dyno finish.
Anhaltend knifflig aber abwechslungsreich: mit weiten Zügen von Loch zu Loch den 'El reto' kreuzen. Technischer linksquergang zum finalen Dynamo.
Continuidad y variación: pasos de distancia, traversía tecnica y un dinamo final. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 11m, 7 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Appetizer
Nice technical face climbing with increasing difficulties.
Schöne technische Tour die Spannend bleibt bis zum Schluss: konstant steigende Schwierigkeiten.
Escalada tecnica de pared con el nivel creciendo. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ ¡Ey loco, un pan!
With flowing moves to the bulge. Direct above and sustained to the top.
Sehr schön bis zum Bauch, dann direkt und fordernd über diesen und drann bleiben bis zu den Henkeln am Umlenker.
Fluyendo hasta la barriga, superandola y con continuidad hasta la reu. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7a | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 25 |
★ Polca de dedos
A nice start leads to the final moves on crimps. Now place you fingers carefully.
Ein schöner Start gefolgt von kratzigem Finale wo man die Finger gut sortieren sollte.
Empieza bonito y acabo con agarres bien afilados, mejor saber como poner sus dedos. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6c+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ Gran Wioming
Straight forward in nice face climbing from pocket to pocket.
Dankbar und Schön von Loch zu Loch.
Agradecido y bonito de agarre a agarre. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 23 Jun 2013 | 6b+ | 11m, 6 | |||||
| 27 |
★ El intermedio
Less pockets than usual in this sector.
Für den Sektor untypisch wenige Löcher.
Menos agujeros que normal en este sector. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 23 Jun 2013 | 6a+ | 11m, 5 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Olimpo==[en]== In this steep sector you will find some technical hard routes up to 25m. The rock is slightly overhanging and very compact and often some blank meters are the crux. Good summer sector with the sun entering only in the very evening. ==[de]== Sommersektor in steilem und sehr kompaktem Gestein mit einer Höhe von 25m der Potenzial für einige schwere und technische Routen bietet. ==[es]== Sector de verano en el cual el sol entra, si acaso lo hace, solo por la tarde tarde. La roca es muy vertical y compacta y ofrece vías duras y técnicas de unos 25m de altura. | ||||||||
| 28 | ★ Itaca | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 29 |
★★ El pigmeo
Short and quite pumpy for the grade if you choose the obvious solution.
Kurz und doch sehr pumpig für den Grad falls man sich für die offensichtliche Lösung entscheidet.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 30 |
★ Odisea
The easiest route to climb that nice wall. To gain the most joy from this climb don't got eaten by the chimney at the top but stay at the face.
Leichtester Weg der durch diese schöne Wand führt. Um ihn am meisten zu geniessen sollte man sich oben nicht zu sehr in den Riss flüchten sondern ausspreizen und auf der Wand bleiben.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 6a+ | 24m, 10 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ There is res
Set: Ximof & Esther Fresneda, 24 Dec 2015 | 7b+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 32 |
Proyecto
Set: Calodedio | |||||||
| 33 |
★★ Tudela en el Olimpo
In memory of Carlos Tudela.
In Erinnerung an Carlos Tudela
En memoria de Carlos Tudela. #double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome | 7c+ | 13m, 7 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Aquiles
Nice slightly overhanging face climbing (around 7a) leads to an crimpy bulk.
Schöne Wandkletterei in leicht überhängendem Gelände (ca. 7a) führt zu kratziger Einzelstelle am Bauch anschliessend leichter zum Umlenker.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Mirko, Nicky & Jakob Hoppstock, 14 Jan 2013 | 7c | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 35 |
★★ Espada de Damocles
You have to pull hard at the bulk before you can enjoy the technical climbing on the arête.
Ein kräftiger Überhang muss zuerst überwunden werden bevor man der Kante in schöner technischer Kletterei zum Zwischenstand folgen kann.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Nicky, 16 Sep 2013 | 7b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Espada Larga de Damocles
The extension of 'Espada de Damocles' is adding some more meters and difficulties. A boulder section after the lover anchors leads into the easier finish.
Die Verlängerung vom 'Espada de Damocles' fügt noch einige Meter hinzu. Direkt nach dem Zwischenstand folgt eine bouldrige Stelle bevor es leichter zum Umlenker geht.
#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome Set: Nicky, 16 Sep 2013 | 7b+ | 23m, 8 | |||||
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