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Montgó south

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 28
13

Seasonality

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Description

Vertical limestone sea cliff ranging from 6m to 18m. Cliff littered with (big) holds and tend to be positive after the first 2-3m. Generally very easy climbing with some routes a slightly harder start but almost all leading to ~f3 "ladder" climbing above. Some fun high and easy traverse potential but lookout for sections with very shallow water/ledges. It is also a great place for cliff jumping, ranging from 3-18m.

Approach

Walk from Cala montgo east towards the end of the bay

Routes

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Grade Route

The left-most possible route of the wall

Follow the fissure with legs left and right

Climb the arete left of the overhang. Slightly right is more appealing but beware the shallow water underneath!

Left most route up the block

Climb the middle of the block or any route 3m left or right of it, it will all be the same height and grade

Start on the back of the small overhanging prow, climb to its tip and move up

Climb the easier route between the prow (left) and la ment buida (right)

Climb slightly left of la ment buida

Ascent the smooth rock right from the prow. First 2.5m is the crux, above that is easy climbing to the top

Climb the wall anywhere right of the crack

Middle section of the wall, slightly harder then the right arete

Climb the right arete

Climb the clear prow sticking out of the water but stop at the ledge next to the start of the overhang (unfortunately this top 8m section should be avoided due to unsafe rock!)

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