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Description

Beginner friendly sector off the main areas of Chulilla. Many routes in the 5s and lower 6s. The grading is not soft, but for medium to hard climbs you want to look elsewhere.

Comes into the shade in the afternoon.

More topos on climbmaps.com - registration required.

Approach

From the parking ( 39,6355490, -0,8776077) opposite the Central hidroeléctrica walk back the road towards Chulilla for ca 125m.

On your right side a path will lead you slightly upwards and back towards the Central hidroeléctrica. Shortly before the path ends at a gate you can fork off to your left and scramble uphill past cactusses. A short and easy rock scramble can be overcome with the help of a fixed rope.

Looking up and left you can now very clearly see sector Pesadilla. Therfore you want to trend right and follow the walking path until you reach the lefthand side of sector Fantasía.

Ethic inherited from Comunidad Valenciana

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instala toprope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

Routes

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Grade Route

Start right of "El colmillo". Follow the flakes up high.

Starts with a very gentle angle and big features. Ends at the belay before it has time to get interesting. Should therefore be combined with pitch 2 in one long route.

Diverse climb and the more interesting pitch of the two. Avoid a blank slab either left or right hand side. Face the overhang crux just before the anchor. Good holds await you at the top.

A tricky and somewhat polished start - however well protected - leads to bit by bit easier climbing until the anchor on a grey slab.

The start can be avoided by scrambling up a bit on the left and going straight to the second quick draw.

The second pitch starts with typical limestone slab moves but has a good vertical finish on big features.

Can be climbed as an extension to 'Oh, Carol L1' or 'Champagne para todos L1'. From the intermediate belay head for a gentle overhang that is easily overcome. In the fingery crux thereafter it is easy to get the sequence wrong. Once passed you can enjoy the last meters.

Can be done in one long pitch.

A thin left trending crack leads you into an enjoyable dihedral. Crack climbing, stemming, lay back, the choice is yours. Unfortunately, very short.

An interesting corner is followed by a thin crux. The second half of the route is still diverse but should not pose much of a problem anymore.

This spectacular pitch can be accessed by climbing either two routes below. After finishing the approach pitch, get ready for some slaby moves to get to an immediate anchor (not visible from the ground) below the steep orange rock. Search for a small crack and finger pocket on the left and step on the gas pedal!

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Activity

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