Las Encantadas




Sunny road-side crag with long quality routes.


Popular crag, two minutes from the road. South facing cliff with sun all day. The Upper section is usually well sheltered from wind.

Wide range of grades available.

  • Left - Easier, shorter routes
  • Center - Harder, longer routes
  • Upper - Medium, longer routes

Access issues

Located on private land. Good behaviour is essential.

Park with care as the road is narrow.


1.5 km uphill the road from El Chorro train station.

Car parking at (36.907829, -4.755070)


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Grade Route

The easier section of the cliff. People often warm up on the routes here before heading over to Central or Upper to get on harder stuff.

12m to the 3rd bolt. Can lower off the mallion (quicklink) on the third bolt. Bolts are carrots. Probably only worth doing this route if you've done everything else here. A strong opening move then up on slab passing 3 carrots to a build a natural anchor at top out.

High first bolt. Tree in your way while climbing. Do something else to warm up if you can.

Worthwhile climb, unfortunately short.

The slightly runout slab between "Guerrera" and "La de seba". Probably bolted recently as it is not polished at all.

Formerly graded 6b. Mistake or sandbag.

Supposedly given 7b+ and known locally as Sueño en Vida.

Good, long, sustained routes.

Located on the right upper end of Las Encantadas.

Access pitch

Wonderful line up in the centre. Will test your perseverance at the top before you can clip the chains. Has suffered from many ascents and is now competing for most polished route of El Chorro. Still worth doing!

Following the crackline right of BBB and left of MC to the anchor of BBB


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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Mark Glaister

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781873341483

This rock climbing guidebook describes all the bolted sport routes to be found in the huge limestone gorge of El Chorro and the surrounding area, including Mijas, Turon, and Desplomilandia.

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