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Summary

Topo and Article Greg Chapman, still handy 'best of' bouldering topo (kept naming and sector structure here)

Description

An extensive climbing and bouldering area situated around the two prominent rocky peaks forming the Barranco de las Penitas. The rock here, a type of granite (monzonite) have large scooped features and arêtes that make the climbing in this area special and well worth a visit. There are over 70 sport routes and a wide variety of boulder problems ranging from lowball traverses to striking highballs throughout the grade range. There problems currently documented here are the most approachable, plenty of potential if you scramble up the hillsides.

Some of the best and more popular sport routes have new bolts but many are in need of re-equipping.

The best time to visit is from November to February for the coolest conditions. During warmer months local climbers often resort to night sessions for better conditions.

Credits

The information has been gleaned by James and Dave Turnbull from Greg Chapman’s very good topo for the Ravine and Valley areas and local activist Josafat Espino Lopez who developed many of the problems. Check out Josafat’s Youtube channel for many of the problems. Thanks to paulatword who made the contact to the Turnbull brothers and aqcuired the permission to use their informations here on theCrag. Original PDF

Access issues

Please be aware the area is both a nature reserve and historically significant site so behave responsibly. Whilst climbing is permitted, it goes without saying leave the area as you found it, removing any litter, tick marks and excessive chalking.

Approach

  1. Main lower parking: (28.385807, -14.106054) Around 1km west of Pajara leave the FV-605 and follow FV-621 towards Ajuy. After just over 3km take a right (FV-627) and follow this for just over 1km to where the tarmac stops at a fork. Take the short steep RH fork and after 500m you will reach a large parking area in the dry river bed.

If you come from the north for a day trip and want to save the 20min more curvy driving to the main parking:

  1. Upper parking tourist hike (28.393595, -14.087960) Nice hike from Vega de Rio Palmas down the barranco

  2. Shortest way (28.385914, -14.095198) Parking carefully, the local farmer wants to come through!

History

History timeline chart

Many of the problems developed by Josafat Espino Lopez.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
72
22
24
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
146
62
30m
59
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
114
62
27m
26
Parking boulder field
18
4
14
Valle / Valley boulder field
49
8
17
Upper Hillside boulder field
8
0
6
Hueco Tanks boulder field
6
1
3
Mirador boulder field
1
0
1
Upper Dam boulder field
10
0
6
North High Plains boulder field
-
0
0
1
Vega de Rio Palmas boulder field
-
0
0

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Activity

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