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Las Peñitas 🚫

  • Grade context: FB
  • Photos: 63
  • Ascents: 178
  • Aka: Barranco de las Peñitas

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Summary

Topo and Article Greg Chapman, still handy 'best of' bouldering topo (kept naming and sector structure here)

Description

A former extensive climbing and bouldering area situated around the two prominent rocky peaks forming the Barranco de las Penitas. The rock here, a type of granite (monzonite) have large scooped features and arêtes that make the climbing in this area special and well worth a visit. There are over 70 sport routes and a wide variety of boulder problems ranging from lowball traverses to striking highballs throughout the grade range. There problems currently documented here are the most approachable, plenty of potential if you scramble up the hillsides.

Some of the best and more popular sport routes have new bolts but many are in need of re-equipping. With the closure of the crag 2022 some of the bolted lines have been removed.

Credits

The information has been gleaned by James and Dave Turnbull from Greg Chapman’s very good topo for the Ravine and Valley areas and local activist Josafat Espino Lopez who developed many of the problems. Check out Josafat’s Youtube channel for many of the problems. Thanks to paulatword who made the contact to the Turnbull brothers and aqcuired the permission to use their informations here on theCrag. Original PDF

Video.

Access issues

Las PEÑITAS is located on private land and the owners no longer allow climbing and bouldering on their land. In January 2022, theCrag was contacted by the landowners who were able to justify their concerns.

Approach

  1. Main lower parking: (28.385807, -14.106054) Around 1km west of Pajara leave the FV-605 and follow FV-621 towards Ajuy. After just over 3km take a right (FV-627) and follow this for just over 1km to where the tarmac stops at a fork. Take the short steep RH fork and after 500m you will reach a large parking area in the dry river bed.

If you come from the north for a day trip and want to save the 20min more curvy driving to the main parking:

  1. Upper parking tourist hike (28.393595, -14.087960) Nice hike from Vega de Rio Palmas down the barranco

  2. Shortest way (28.385914, -14.095198) Parking carefully, the local farmer wants to come through!

History

History timeline chart

Many of the problems developed by Josafat Espino Lopez.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed Arco / Arch crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
72
22
24
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
147
71
26m
59
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
122
72
24m
26
Closed Parking boulder field
23
4
14
Closed Valle / Valley boulder field
49
8
17
Closed Valle Alto / Upper Valley boulder field
8
0
8
Closed Upper Hillside boulder field
8
0
6
Closed Hueco Tanks boulder field
6
1
3
Closed Mirador boulder field
1
0
1
Closed Upper Dam boulder field
10
0
6
Closed Parque de Juego / Playground boulder field
3
0
1
Closed North High Plains boulder field
-
0
0
1
Closed Vega de Rio Palmas boulder field
-
0
0

Activity

Check out what is happening in Las Peñitas.

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