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La Vall Verda

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 138
  • Aka: La Vall Verde

Seasonality

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Description

Nice little crag offering a quite varied selection of climbing styles. Calm and sheltered place, which can be very pleasant even at winter days.

Access issues inherited from Serra de Tramuntana

Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.

Before 5/2020, you could apply by sending the following two signed documents plus a copy of your ID document (driving licence or passport) to the email autoritzacions@dgmambie.caib.es

For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.

Approach

From highway Palma to Andratx, take exit towards Es Capdellà. After 3km, take a small street to the left (big wooden sign "Itinerari de la Vall Verda") that soon turns into a dirt road. After about 1km there is a parking at the right side. By foot, follow the road for about 100 metres until you see a gate. Don't cross the gate, take a small hidden path right through the woods to reach the rocks after few metres.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Good technical wall climb without distinct crux. Start left of a small bush, then climb mostly straight up.

Good technical and fingery wall climb. Start on a small pedestral, climb the wall passing right of a tufa blob to an undercling, then again fingery to reach a juggy finish.

Up and tricky around the flake into easier ground. The final metres are hard but can be avoided on the left side.

Varied climbing with changing difficulties. Crimpy start to gain a flake, follow it a bit before moving right into the slab. At its end, awkward thin move into a slot (crux!). From there up through the orange bulges, passing an intermediate lower-off to the final one after a short easy overhang.

New route left of gulley

New route right of gulley

New (hard) route right of gulley

Spectacular lone line on the way to "Tres reyes". Tricky start and nice layback moves on huge jugs towards the top. Looks harder than it is.

Long and nice pitch on lone wall at the right end of the crag, easy for the grade. Move up to an arete and over it (several variations possible), then airy to the lower-off.

Rather short overhanging crack and groove on slick rock. Precise footwork and strong arms required. 4th bolt is awful to clip.

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