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Sa Mola de Felanitx

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Summary

There are now over 30 routes here. Great for afternoon climbing in the shade. Shade starts around 1pm but you can get there at 2pm and still have plenty of time to climb in summer.

Description

Grades are from 4 to 7a with plenty of easier routes. A great feature is the grades written on the bottom of most climbs.

Bolts are glue in style with a few of the older climbs using expansion bolts. You shouldn't need any more than 12 draws.

With kids OK: The stand is mostly level and 2-4m wide, but kids could fall off the retaining wall wich is up to app 3m high.

A topo image is on 27 crags https://27crags.com/crags/felanitx/topos

Access issues

You are waking through an abandoned building & garden complex which is strange but no one seems to mind.

Approach

Access may change depending on development of the abandoned bodega Es Sindicat. (39.47086, 3.14298) northwest and northeast of the roundabout is east of the crag, across the bodega. You can see the cliff from the car park and often on the walk up. To access the wall go along the track south of the bodega building, turn right, go up the small steps at south-west corner of the bodega building, traverse through the old garden with some left and right but keep walking up towards the cliff.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Parece un 6a.

Set: Jenny Gabriel, Frank Gabriel & Armin Helbach, 28 Dec 2017

FFA: Jenny Gabriel, 28 Dec 2017

FA: Jenny Gabriel, 28 Dec 2017

Start on some cracks, followed by delicate moves left to join "It's tricky". After a good rest some hard pulling over the middle blank section. Not a present for the grade.

La vía se inicia en sit start utilizando el bidedo con la mano izquierda y una regleta inclinada para la mano derecha, los pies empiezan colocados en adherencia a la derecha de la via.

FA: Juan Carlos Diaz, 4 Jan 2021

A fun climb! Easy through the left side of the bizarre shaped cave, followed by a thrilling pull out of its top roof to reach easy ground leading to the anchor. Unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag.

Somehow similar to "Medizincentrum Santanyi", but even better and a tad harder. Some awkward moves out of the cave and back into the wall; stays challenging until the top. Unclip 2nd bolt to reduce rope drag.

A pumpy beast! Follow the obvious crack line to the left to reach a big flake. After a short steep section easy ground is dominating until the anchor.

Esta vía ya no existe.

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