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Summary

One of the more remote crags of the island with a long approach, both by car and foot. Bushwacking, great scenery and solitude guaranteed.

Description

Prominent buttress above the bay of Cala Tuent. Although stunning from afar, the merely dozen 1-2 pitch routes somehow are less than one could wish for after the strenous approach. However, this is a beautiful place with routes facing North and North-East, providing shade in the heat but exposed to winds.

Access issues inherited from Serra de Tramuntana

Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.

Before 5/2020, you could apply by sending the following two signed documents plus a copy of your ID document (driving licence or passport) to the email autoritzacions@dgmambie.caib.es

For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.

Approach

Between Sóller and Pollenca (Ma-10) turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses). Shortly before reaching Sa Calobra turn left towards Cala Tuent. Park near the signposted restaurant Es Vergeret at the southern edge of the village continue by foot following the hiking trail towards Villa S'Avenc (10 min), the topmost finca at the valleyside before the forest begins. Rumour has it that following the fence uphill wil lead you to a faint path and occasional cairns. Be prepared for 20 min of intense bushwhacking, eventually the forest will clear and you can follow some scree slopes to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, follow the hiking trail araound and approach the buttress from the west - also pathless, but less shrubs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

close to the Eastern col

Northern side of buttress, left of chimney

up the chimney, first pitch bolted

short slab

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