• Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 129
  • Aka: Vampiro



Access issues inherited from Puig de Garrafa

There have been major access issues with the landowners. Sector solarium is now permanently closed for climbing. In the other sectors try to keep a very low profile to avoid the closure of the entire crag.


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Very hard start from left to a good jug right, then varied climbing up. The first move is the crux and is found much harder than the given grade by most.

Same start as "Dona Simena", then right through the slabby groove.

Start using the tree to gain some easy tufas. Follow them until a huge cave and stay concentrated for a tricky pull out of it.

Excellent route following the orange coloured groove right of the huge cave. Technical moves onto the right ledge and up to a good rest before entering the left leaning slab / overhang combination with continuously increasing difficulty.

Hard bouldery start into a powerful passage around and over the corner. Then the main difficulties are over and the route turns into something balancy and slabby.

Pull up the crack on big holds to a small cave (without using the rock behind!), from there hard move leftwards and up to the lower-off.

Easy line starting above the path towards the right part of the sector. Quite nice climbing with changing styles (chimney, arete, fingery) between several perfect rests.

Starting from the first small terrasse in the right part of the sector. Follow the crack to an overhang and over it into the upper wall.

Start between "Vampiro" and "Vampiresa", through the lower wall and into the upper difficult section between the two routes.

Starting some metres right of "Vampiro". First straight on good holds, then diagonally left to the anchor to "Vampiro". Technical and tricky wall climb.

Same start as Vampiresa, but straight up through the crimpy upper part instead of going left.

Straight up on small holds to and passing a big hollow flake.

Nice tricky line on the right end of the wall. Technical climbing on crimps, not easy to read.

Insignificant short route some metres right and down from "Puta guiri".


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