Racó de Missa




This really is a world class cliff, perfect pocket pulling on long vertical walls. Two finger pocket after two finger pocket after two finger pocket....

Access issues inherited from Montsant

The sectors west of Sant Joan have a climbing ban between 31 Dec and 1 Jul. Signs also indicate that bolting new routes is allowed if the Park is notified beforehand. Some sectors of the escarpment are permanently closed for birds, such as between L'Escletxa and el Trinquet; signs indicate the exact boundaries.


Park 2.7km up the dirt road from La Morera de La Montsant at: 41.2644791,0.8176436

Take the obvious trail, the walk up to the crag is 20-25 minutes.


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Grade Route

A 70m rope is just enough to lower off the top to the re-threading anchor then, after re-threading, just enough to lower off to the ground. Tie a knot in the end!

Grading is a guess! Route is not in the guidebook.

This and the next 3 routes have a shared start at the left end of a raised ledge, above a fixed hand rope, starting with a rung/staple.

Marked with blue paint. Stick clip advisable, it’s insecure at the grade to the high-ish 1st bolt. The hangers on the top are missing. The lowering anchor is now at about 38m, perfect for a 70m rope.

FA: Chris-Jan Stiller, Matthias Werner, Fl. Friedrich & F. Maul, 2006

Starts in the right facing corner/crack feature, before stepping out right onto the face.

Shares the first 5 or so bolts with 'Nanses del priorat'.

Starts just left of an intermittent fissure.

The next 3 routes have shade until about 10.30 AM.

1 7a 25m
2 7a+ 10m

First pitch 7a. The first 7 bolted at Montsant, around the year 2000 amazingly enough.

Set: Toni Arbones

A 70m rope is just enough to lower off, but no less. This and the next 10 routes have shade until about 11.15 AM.

New second pitch to La Babaria going left after the first belay finishing under the roof.

First pitch 7c


FFA: Toni Arbones

First pitch 8a+

First pitch 8a

28m 8a to first anchor. The first 8 done in Montsant. Shade until 2 PM.

Set: Toni Arbones

First pitch 8a+. Mariona

Possibly the hardest trad climb in Catalunya. Requires tricams, C3s, very large cams, etc. Some important placements are not obvious.

FFA: Toni Arbones

Starts up the steep black flake about 10m R of the major vegetated crack/chimney.

Set: Toni Arbones, 2016

The L-trending black streaks up the middle of the shady steep wall. Start as for the earlier 7c.

Set: Toni Arbones, 2016

Would be the best route at many crags but around here it never gets done.

Reportedly could do with another bolt but looks amazing despite the lack of ascents.

Starts up the white corner/flake on the R end of the shady steep wall. Not sure if goes to the top or maybe it will get an anchor at around the 30m mark. Estimated around the 7a+/b mark during bolting.

Set: Toni Arbones, Sep 2016

The leaning white wall 5m R of White Proj for 25m, onto a 15m 'slab', to an incredible steeper 20m headwall.

1 6b+
2 7c
  1. 30m 6b+. The grey face to a stance. 2) 15m 7c. This pitch starts up the impressive leaning headwall but unfortunately only makes it part of the way.

Monster single pitch on vertical shady wall 100m R of Hidrofobia (50m R of the steep shady wall). Start on high perch in corner approached via 8m knotted rope, then drift R up the endless wall forever on unlimited pockets. Shade until 6 PM or later. Needs a 70m rope & a re-thread on descent.

Set: Toni Arbones

FA: Will Monks


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Xavier Buxó und Luis Alfonso

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9788461292837

A definitive guidebook that covers the rock climbing and sports climbing at Montsant, in the Sierra de Prades Mountains, describing many sport and multi-pitch routes (some trad) on very solid and compact conglomerate rock.

Author(s): Pete O'Donovan & Dani Andrada

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9780956700667

The Catalan province of Tarragona in eastern Spain is a dream destination for climbers. The comprehensive guidebook includes climbing areas such as Siurana and Margalef, with a total of over 4800 routes spread over 11 areas.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 23 Feb
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