Routes in Sur Pisón

Starts just uphill climber’s right of El Puro, marked “SM”. Mostly 5 the whole way, with a couple of 6a/6b moves that can be French-freed. Not modernly bolted, a few sections of loose rock, and a wire or two wouldn’t go astray in some places. All bolted anchors.

1. big traverse left past 3 bolts to belay in cave

2. tricky move out of cave (can pull on bolt)

3. steps left from the anchor, then goes a long way up without a bolt in the chossy looking groove. There is a thread out left with some tat you could use, or potentially some gear going more direct.

4. (crux) follow your nose. Can pull through the crux on a couple of bolts

The rest: You’ll follow the groove at mostly 5/5+ climbing. As you come to the pillar “El Puro”, there’s a tricky move before traversing right along the ledge to an anchor (a piece of gear here to protect your second wouldn’t go astray).

After this, you’re going straight up the big chimney until you hit the top. These pitches can definitely be linked at least 2 at a time.

Descend via the back-side of the summit. You can probably retreat the route, but with the risk of loose rocks and other parties, it’s easier to go down the other way

http://korkuerika.blogspot.com/2010/04/tucan-ausente-al-pison-seguimos-con-la.html

First ascension by Ursi Abajo and Jesús Ibarzo in 1965.

6a=, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 7a, 6c+, 6b

6b, 6a+/b, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6c+, 6b, 6b+ Vía clásica de Riglos. Fue abierta en 12 días alternos de enero de 1976 por José Luis y Miguel Angel Gallego.

https://escaladorenpracticasblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/20/via-chooper-chooperior-6c-300m-al-mallo-pison-riglos/

https://escaladorenpracticasblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/20/via-chooper-chooperior-6c-300m-al-mallo-pison-riglos/

12 cintas, friends pequeños, fisureros, 2 chapas recuperables y bogas. Algunos tramos coinciden con la "Chopperior". Roca mediocre. Descenso por los rápeles del Pisón

La primera ascensión se realizo accediendo por La Visera y rapelado al collado por la Canal del Clavijón. La opción mas fácil para subir al Pisón. Descenso por los rápeles del Pisón

Equipada sobre la linea de rápeles del Torreon

Microfriends, fisureros y bagas Descenso por los rápeles del Pisón