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Seasonality

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Description

Mostly short routes of 10m-15m height. Only on the right side there are a few longer ones of up to 20m.

In summer the wall is in the shade until approx. 14:00. The routes Cochichillas to El Campo on the left side are north facing and allow for climbing a bit longer than the rest of the wall.

Access issues inherited from Zona Peña María

En julio y agosto el aparcamiento de Peña María no está abierto para los vehículos. Hay que aparcar 400 metros antes en un puente junto a la Fuente El Morinello.

No se permite acampar.

Approach

You can park your car directly in front of the wall, (39.602425, -0.853757).

Ethic inherited from Comunidad Valenciana

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instala toprope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy start with spicy finish.

Set: 2020

Bouldery start. Then easy to the top.

Bouldery start, easier than its neighbors left and right.

Bouldery start. Once you reach the ledge, you are on easier ground.

Either go straight up through crimps, or avoid them to the far right. Either way, the route is basically over once you reach the ledge. Harder than its neighbor in the corner.

Stemming in the corner. Good warm-up climb.

Hard nut to crack. Difficult start on bad, polished footholds. The crux is before the second bolt, which on top of that is hard to clip. Gets easier the higher you get.

Shares the same (hard) start with Alto Los Cuernos. Seems a bit hard for the grade. There are easier warm-ups around.

The small overhang is not as hard as it looks. Go for it!

Follow the prominent crack. Easier on top.

The longest routes of the sector are found here. Most routes here have a rather difficult start and get significantly easier as you go up.

A few strenuous moves before a mini-roof that is difficult to overcome. Don't stray too far right or you are in the 6a.

Good holds help you over the short overhang at the start. A small crux also keeps the slab interesting.

Warning Fixed Gear: Chapas quitado // Bolts removed

The short overhang is overcome quickly. Thereafter the route has no more challenges to offer. It's at least debatable, whether the start justifies the 6b grade.

Warning Rock: Escama dudosa // Dubious flake

Warning Fixed Gear: Eslabón de la cadena oxidada // Chain link rusty

Tough and committing on the first few meters. Further up it's an easy slab.

Strong finish required. Some say (much) harder than 6a+.

Very diverse and sustained climb

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