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Summary
Description
Guidebooks:
- Rocha Nai - Alfonso Louro y Gustavo Vázquez (ISBN:9788493990763) La más actualizada
- Galicia Vertical - Miguel Seoane y Javier Carreras (ISBN: 8460566870) Descatalogada.
- Escalada Tradicional en "Faro de Budiño" - José Juan Domínguez
- Boulder en Galicia. Guía zona Norte - Alejandro López (ISBN:9788493990718)
- Pena Corneira Guía de Boulder - César Álvarez (ISBN:9788493990732)
- Escaladas Costa da Morte - Ignacio López
- Guía de Bulder de Pedra Rubia y Portecelo - César Álvarez
- Topos and GPS locations for bouldering https://www.blokopedia.es/blokopedia/
- Topos and GPS locations for sport climbing https://www.blokopedia.es/climbipedia/
Access issues
The access to some crags (like "Canon del Sil", "Covas" or "Presa do Eume") is regulated. Make sure to check https://escaladasostenible.org/regulaciones/ and consult the guidebook guidelines.
Also, some classic crags in the Enciña da Lastra area are now closed due to conservation efforts, like Penedos de Oulego or sectors in Covas like "Caliza Ceibe".
Approach
Quite standard for most of the inland areas, but very particular for the seaside cliffs (rappeling, low tide...). Take a look at the instructions int the guidebook and be especially cautious with the sea.
Where to stay
Some of the crags have large parking areas where one can sleep in a van. Camping with objects outside of your vehicle is illegal in all Spain (tents, furniture), as well as making fire. Bivouacking is legal unless stated otherwise, as long as you don't use a tent.
Ethic
Well established
The route developers have put a lot of effort into keeping the coastal climbing safe, and most of the bolts in seaside cliffs are glue-in inox anchors or inox bolts. Despite this, be always aware that coast climbing is especially dagnerous and check the guidebooks to see the re-bolting dates. Since winters are very humid, some effort is also put into cleaning the moss off some routes in spring, so contribute when possible (without harming any protected species).
There is an emerging clean climbing current, so even though in some old areas there are bolted cracks, in the modern crags there is always room for trad climbing.
In general, most of the local climbers share their new developments and are very kind to visitors, with only a few anecdotal exceptions for some specific areas.
History
The first signs of non-alpine climbing in Galicia are mainly in Petón do Xalo, Monte Galiñeiro and Faro de Budiño, in the 60s and 70s. In the 80s, and 90s, hundreds of routes were developed in inland and lots new coastal crags. A lot of old aid lines were also freed in this period. All this development is reflected in the publication of Galicia Vertical, the first climbing guidebook for the area (1997).
Bouldering became popular in the 90s and 2000s with the descovery of areas like Costa da Morte (Mens and Corme) or Pena Corneira and has been an important discipline ever since.
Between 2014 and 2018, a massive re-bolting of the seaside crags was undertaken, and in the last 5 years, a lot of crags with easier beginner-friendly routes were bolted all around Galicia. The publication of Rocha Nai (2020), a new updated guidebook, has given a new push to climbing in Galicia.
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Author(s): Alfonso Louro Fuentes, Gustavo Vázquez Fariña
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788493990763
Esta guía pretende recopilar, en la medida de lo posible, todas las nuevas zonas de escalada desarrolladas en los últimos años en Galicia, así como la ampliación de las ya existentes, independientemente de su tamaño, carácter o prestigio, intentando poner en valor la escalada de autoprotección, demostrando que puede y debe ser compatible la convivencia de la escalada deportiva equipada, tal y como comúnmente la conocemos, con la escalada limpia (Clean Climbing). Esta debe ser respetada para que las futuras generaciones puedan disfrutar del placer de escalar rutas con el compromiso que exige ser responsable de la autoprotección.
El objetivo es que se conozcan estas vías "limpias" y que sigan "limpias" para el futuro, donde las próximas generaciones con afán aperturista y equipador conozcan y respeten este estilo de escalada, y sigan conviviendo y respetándose todos los estilos.
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