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Galicia

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 19
  • Ascents: 553
  • Aka: Galiza

Seasonality

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Summary

Galicia is quite rainy in winter, but very nice in summer, with moderate temperatures that contrast with those of the rest of Spain. There is a good amount of quality sport climbing and bouldering.

Description

Guidebooks:

  • Rocha Nai - Alfonso Louro y Gustavo Vázquez (ISBN:9788493990763) La más actualizada
  • Galicia Vertical - Miguel Seoane y Javier Carreras (ISBN: 8460566870) Descatalogada.
  • Escalada Tradicional en "Faro de Budiño" - José Juan Domínguez
  • Boulder en Galicia. Guía zona Norte - Alejandro López (ISBN:9788493990718)
  • Pena Corneira Guía de Boulder - César Álvarez (ISBN:9788493990732)
  • Escaladas Costa da Morte - Ignacio López
  • Guía de Bulder de Pedra Rubia y Portecelo - César Álvarez
  • Topos and GPS locations for bouldering https://www.blokopedia.es/blokopedia/
  • Topos and GPS locations for sport climbing https://www.blokopedia.es/climbipedia/

Access issues

The access to some crags (like "Canon del Sil", "Covas" or "Presa do Eume") is regulated. Make sure to check https://escaladasostenible.org/regulaciones/ and consult the guidebook guidelines.

Also, some classic crags in the Enciña da Lastra area are now closed due to conservation efforts, like Penedos de Oulego or sectors in Covas like "Caliza Ceibe".

Approach

Quite standard for most of the inland areas, but very particular for the seaside cliffs (rappeling, low tide...). Take a look at the instructions int the guidebook and be especially cautious with the sea.

Where to stay

Some of the crags have large parking areas where one can sleep in a van. Camping with objects outside of your vehicle is illegal in all Spain (tents, furniture), as well as making fire. Bivouacking is legal unless stated otherwise, as long as you don't use a tent.

Ethic

The route developers have put a lot of effort into keeping the coastal climbing safe, and most of the bolts in seaside cliffs are glue-in inox anchors or inox bolts. Despite this, be always aware that coast climbing is especially dagnerous and check the guidebooks to see the re-bolting dates. Since winters are very humid, some effort is also put into cleaning the moss off some routes in spring, so contribute when possible (without harming any protected species).

There is an emerging clean climbing current, so even though in some old areas there are bolted cracks, in the modern crags there is always room for trad climbing.

In general, most of the local climbers share their new developments and are very kind to visitors, with only a few anecdotal exceptions for some specific areas.

History

History timeline chart

The first signs of non-alpine climbing in Galicia are mainly in Petón do Xalo, Monte Galiñeiro and Faro de Budiño, in the 60s and 70s. In the 80s, and 90s, hundreds of routes were developed in inland and lots new coastal crags. A lot of old aid lines were also freed in this period. All this development is reflected in the publication of Galicia Vertical, the first climbing guidebook for the area (1997).

Bouldering became popular in the 90s and 2000s with the descovery of areas like Costa da Morte (Mens and Corme) or Pena Corneira and has been an important discipline ever since.

Between 2014 and 2018, a massive re-bolting of the seaside crags was undertaken, and in the last 5 years, a lot of crags with easier beginner-friendly routes were bolted all around Galicia. The publication of Rocha Nai (2020), a new updated guidebook, has given a new push to climbing in Galicia.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Mera crag
29
27
10m
Tambre crag
32
21
15m
A Illa de Arousa boulder field
10
0
1
Hio crag
11
30
19m
206
34
39m
2
Oia area
68
7
13m
 Bouldering,  Trad climbing and other styles
22
0
Closed Penedos de Oulego crag
-
0
0

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