Granite cliffs with sport (and some trad) routes from 6a to 8a, mainly in the 7th grade.
A Moa: incredibly good vertical routes, with amazing shapes and moves
Desplomes: some athletic overhang routes, with jugs and slopers. Also, some crimpy 8th grade routes.
Placas: vertical routes, very technical in general.
Cabo Vilán is in the Costa da Morte protected area. Please, be respectful with the fauna and flora.
Easy approach from the lighthouse
Large parking area in the lighthouse, great to stay overnight (with vehicle).
The route developers have put a lot of effort into keeping the coastal climbing safe, and most of the bolts in seaside cliffs are glue-in inox anchors or inox bolts. Despite this, be always aware that coast climbing is especially dagnerous and check the guidebooks to see the re-bolting dates. Since winters are very humid, some effort is also put into cleaning the moss off some routes in spring, so contribute when possible (without harming any protected species).
There is an emerging clean climbing current, so even though in some old areas there are bolted cracks, in the modern crags there is always room for trad climbing.
In general, most of the local climbers share their new developments and are very kind to visitors, with only a few anecdotal exceptions for some specific areas.
Developed between the late 90s and 2010s.
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Alfonso Louro Fuentes, Gustavo Vázquez Fariña
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788493990763
Kletterführer für Galicien, im äußersten Nordwesten Spaniens. In 2 Bänden werden 42 Gebiete mit insgesamt 2800 Seillängen im Sport- und Tradklettern beschrieben. Neben vielen Einseillängen werden die Mehrseillängen in ihren einzelnen Abschnitten komplett vorgestellt.