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Cabo Vilán

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 11

Seasonality

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Summary

Granite cliffs with sport (and some trad) routes from 6a to 8a, mainly in the 7th grade.

Description

  1. A Moa: incredibly good vertical routes, with amazing shapes and moves

  2. Desplomes: some athletic overhang routes, with jugs and slopers. Also, some crimpy 8th grade routes.

  3. Placas: vertical routes, very technical in general.

Access issues

Cabo Vilán is in the Costa da Morte protected area. Please, be respectful with the fauna and flora.

Approach

Easy approach from the lighthouse

Where to stay

Large parking area in the lighthouse, great to stay overnight (with vehicle).

Ethic inherited from Galicia

The route developers have put a lot of effort into keeping the coastal climbing safe, and most of the bolts in seaside cliffs are glue-in inox anchors or inox bolts. Despite this, be always aware that coast climbing is especially dagnerous and check the guidebooks to see the re-bolting dates. Since winters are very humid, some effort is also put into cleaning the moss off some routes in spring, so contribute when possible (without harming any protected species).

There is an emerging clean climbing current, so even though in some old areas there are bolted cracks, in the modern crags there is always room for trad climbing.

In general, most of the local climbers share their new developments and are very kind to visitors, with only a few anecdotal exceptions for some specific areas.

History

History timeline chart

Developed between the late 90s and 2010s.

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Alfonso Louro Fuentes, Gustavo Vázquez Fariña

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788493990763

Kletterführer für Galicien, im äußersten Nordwesten Spaniens. In 2 Bänden werden 42 Gebiete mit insgesamt 2800 Seillängen im Sport- und Tradklettern beschrieben. Neben vielen Einseillängen werden die Mehrseillängen in ihren einzelnen Abschnitten komplett vorgestellt.

Accommodations nearby more

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