Jebel Taka North

  • Grade context: US



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Grade Route

A great line up the massive crack you can see from town. Many belays are fixed but in very poor condition, take some cord. Can run many pitches together at the end.

L 1 65 m 6a Go up a varied crack and relay on the right. L 2 35 m 6b + Go up a first steep wall (1 bolt) then in stem a vertical jump initiating the crack of the following lengths. Avoid pulling on the two stuck scales and climb with finesse. L 3 45 m 6a Reassemble a fine plugged crack (1 spit) then this same crack over the entire length. L 4 45 m 5+ Go up a chimney at the bottom and reach the belay on a less inclined area. L 5 50 m 5+ An exceptional length taking place on sculpted rock between two cracks. L 6 45 m 5+ Go up a fireplace. L 7 45 m 5 then 3+ Follow the crack until it tilts. Gain a terrace to relay L 8 40 m 5 Go up a chimney. L 9 20 m 3+ Exit the crack by a chimney. L 10 70 m 3 Climb a small step and gain a foothold on the slabs on the right, allowing to gain a pass. From this pass, join the normal route of Jebel Taka to reach the summit in 45 minutes of hiking-climbing (slabs in 3). See 1939 Brown-Hodgkin route.

FA: David Jonglez, Matthieu Noury, Thursday January 23 & 2003, 2003

FA: Brown & Hodgkin, 1939

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